What do guys use to seal air leaks between the baffle and drivers? I've been using ordinary caulking with good results but it's a PITA if you ever need to remove the drivers.
Sealing Drivers
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Tags: None
- Bottom
-
Foam weatherstripping tape from your local hardware store
Closed cell if you can find it, but open cell is just about as good once compressed.
My local hardware stores will likely have only a couple rolls, but none in the right sizes,- Bottom
Comment
-
Don't know about Canadian suppliers.
In the US, Ace Hardware stores have a neoprene foam that's perfect. It's more $pendy than the plastic foams sold at the big box stores Lowes, Big Orange, etc.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
Comment
-
Do NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThomasWDo NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...
Thomas, did you happen to get my last PM? If not, I can re-send it.- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThomasWDo NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...John unk:
"Why can't we all just, get along?" ~ Jack Nicholson (Mars Attacks)
My Website (hyperacusis, tinnitus, my story)- Bottom
Comment
-
I use rope caulk that I buy at Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember. It is different than the PE product. It is a white, slightly sticky roll of putty-like material. I recently removed a Lambda 15" subwoofer that had been installed in its cabinet with this stuff after 6 years and it came out without significant difficulty. It comes in a white box, maybe 6x6x2 inches, in the weatherstripping section. I also have several local friends who use it as well without problems.
This is the stuff I use (found it just by googling):
Sears link- Bottom
Comment
-
obviously, lots of options.
I like the Automotive/Marine Grade Foam Weatherstripping from Homedepot. It is just your basic closed cell foam weather stripping, but the adhesive on the back side is a bit stronger.- Bottom
Comment
-
Aquarium sealer is a great silicone caulk that, once it is dried, forms a stiff rubbery non-sticky bead that works well for me and doesn't seem to keep the driver. I lay a nice bead on the cab and let it sit for a day and then seat the driver. Stays on the cab but the driver comes out clean ( at least so far ).- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThomasWDo NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...
Here's the stuff I use.
- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by JedYeah I should have been more specific. I've used the PE foam not the caulk.
Here's the stuff I use.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-542
It's a heavier foam than a lot of what you find in your average hardware store, and the glue is a more serious kind as well. Better suited to the task.
I typically stick it on the driver, it has been fine thru many installs and removals, while I've had some of the weatherstrip stuff need replacing after a few.
For smaller than 4" drivers, and tweeters, lighter stuff is OK, or I've made gaskets out of 1/16" non-adhesive hobby foam, as well.- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThomasWDo NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...- Bottom
Comment
-
I'm resurrecting this thread to ask a couple of newbiesque questions. First, do the drivers need to be sealed like this for a ported design? Second, does one have to route deeper to accommodate the compressed foam and, if so, how much deeper?- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by Paul EbertFirst, do the drivers need to be sealed like this for a ported design?
Second, does one have to route deeper to accommodate the compressed foam and, if so, how much deeper?
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by Paul EbertI'm resurrecting this thread to ask a couple of newbiesque questions. First, do the drivers need to be sealed like this for a ported design? Second, does one have to route deeper to accommodate the compressed foam and, if so, how much deeper?- Bottom
Comment
-
I use rope caulk that I buy at Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember. It is different than the PE product. It is a white, slightly sticky roll of putty-like material.- Bottom
Comment
-
-
If I use foam tape I use the softest kind, like this:
which you can find at many hardware stores even if not on their web sites.
This type of tape says "Maximum Compression" and it squishes down to 1/32" or less with very light pressure (thinner than the 1/8" thick PE closed cell tape).
As Brent said above, often you don't need that much gasketing. If your baffle board and rabbeting are planar and smooth, all you really need are gaskets cut from one or two layers of construction paper or thin cardboard (like a cereal box).- Bottom
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThomasWNo
Depends entirely on the thickness and type of foam being used.
What I've done is to use my cheap and handy Harbor Freight digital calipers, and squash down the foam between to get a number to add to the router depth. Good way to judge which foams will squeeze down very thin, and which will provide more thickness, for when you want one or the other...
I'll just put in a bid for calipers in general here... if you don't have a pair, get one and you'll wonder how you lived without it before! Measuring driver diameters, flange depths, gasket judgements, etc... Not to mention determining screw drill diameters for the inside and outside of threads, figuring out which unmarked drill bit that is laying on the table, even as a precision marker or scribe to put an exact line on something... (we are talking cheap HF one, not a nice $$ one) It'll be the best $15-25 you've spent on tools.
My only suggestion, spend a few $ more for an 8" one, the 6" one stops at around 6.125" and that leaves you short with a lot of the larger drivers.- Bottom
Comment
Comment