Hi!
I'm now building a new speaker, based on dual RS125's and an RS28.
Since the cabinet is so small, I'll need to simplify crossover design, or (gasp!) use electrolytics in every shunt branch.
Considering this... http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-360g.pdf
I have two peaks: one at 7,500 Hz, and the other one at 12,000 Hz (I already took in cabinet measurements.. hopefully, I'll be able to post pics of the cabinets and measurements tomorrow. They did come out nice!).
So far, I've tried two approaches.
1) Second order electrical with a series RLC. No matter how hard I try, I can't seem to really get rid of the peaks. Not even if I center the RLC's frequency response between the peaks. Or if I don't use an R at all. It does help, but not as much as I'd expect. Peaks are at -30 dB or so.
2) Fourth order electrical. I get rid of every peak, and FR is nice and smooth. But I then have to invert the tweeter's polarity in order to get the speaker to sum correctly.
I'm using a 1,700 Hz crossover point. In both cases, phase is not an issue (when I invert the tweeter's polarity in example 2, that is!). I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing, though.
Any ideas?
I'm now building a new speaker, based on dual RS125's and an RS28.
Since the cabinet is so small, I'll need to simplify crossover design, or (gasp!) use electrolytics in every shunt branch.
Considering this... http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-360g.pdf
I have two peaks: one at 7,500 Hz, and the other one at 12,000 Hz (I already took in cabinet measurements.. hopefully, I'll be able to post pics of the cabinets and measurements tomorrow. They did come out nice!).
So far, I've tried two approaches.
1) Second order electrical with a series RLC. No matter how hard I try, I can't seem to really get rid of the peaks. Not even if I center the RLC's frequency response between the peaks. Or if I don't use an R at all. It does help, but not as much as I'd expect. Peaks are at -30 dB or so.
2) Fourth order electrical. I get rid of every peak, and FR is nice and smooth. But I then have to invert the tweeter's polarity in order to get the speaker to sum correctly.
I'm using a 1,700 Hz crossover point. In both cases, phase is not an issue (when I invert the tweeter's polarity in example 2, that is!). I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing, though.
Any ideas?
Comment