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alright guys, I guess it's safe to say that my attemp at trying to buy one of your used DIY speaker has failed miserably. Now i'm gonna have to build it myself although I have no access to woodshop and no time. looks like I'm gonna have to use UCLA's woodshop even though i'm not a student there... I'll just wear their school tshirt and hope that nobody bothers me. I'm looking foward to this, actually. I love building stuff. Anyways, I was hoping if you guys could give me some recommandations for loudspeaker design that's around $500. I don't want anything cheap even though its my first time but if it goes near $1000 I wouldn't be interested. The design i've been looking at is eros by speakercity what do you think? any input appreciated. thanks.
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I think you'd be better off building the Natalie P's in the Missions Accomplished section. The Dayton RS drivers and the Seas or Dayton tweeter are of a higher quality than those Vifa drivers, IMHO. -
I'm actually building these now for my nephew. I've had the parts for years and built both versions of the xover. They sound great but they are a little dated by todays standards. Be careful of the drawings as they don't match up to the written description. I asked Wayne about this and he said to use the dims he spells out in the write up, not the drawings.
I also had trouble with the series xover. I don't remember which but one of the caps blew up and fried one of the resistors in my receiver.
$500 will go pretty far in parts. Check out Jon's M8 MTMs if you want something really extraordinary.
PeteComment
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Jon's NatP, ModulaMT, and ModulaMTM projects all use standard PE cabs. Therefore, the required woodworking would be limited to just cutting the baffle holes. That should be easy to accomplish without sneaking into anyone's woodshop.Comment
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You seem like you might be able to squeeze in an RS TMWW tower into that range. The crossover/driver cost is very close to $500, if you get dayton or bennic poly caps, use a sledgehammer inductor for the woofer section, etc. Then you need some MDF, glue, and some PE vinyl sheets for the finish. It will not be under $500, but it should not be very much over, either. That is a lot of speaker, from all accounts. I am on the slow boat to completing a pair, myself.Originally posted by Coconutout
I guess my point is, if you are going to go to that much trouble already, I do not see where the small stretch to the RS TMWW towers is going to kill you.
Good luck, regardless!Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards.
-Vernon Sanders LawComment
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That is a really good point, too.Originally posted by ---k---Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards.
-Vernon Sanders LawComment
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Building a pair of Natalie P or Modula MT speakers would each run about $500 if you bought the PE cabinets. For woodworking then, you really would only need to route the holes for the drivers and cut a hole for your port, and maybe to install the binding post cup if you are so inclined.
When all is said and done, the Modula MT is probably the easiest solution. It has a relatively low part count compared to some of the other designs here, and just about any receiver or amplifier will be able to drive it adequately. A BOM for whatever you decide to make is available in the thread in the "missions accomplished" section, but when pricing the speaker be sure to include everything. That means binding posts, some sort of sound absorbing material for the inside of the cabinet, solder and wire as well as the resistors, capacitors, inductors, and drivers. Parts Express runs sales fairly often which can save you some money if it is just a little bit over your budget.Comment
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well thanks for all that input guys. however the reason why i desire loudspeakers is for that room filling sound my big living room deserves. Now only speakers i've had in here are Aperion Audio 532s and they sounded tiny and light. Only loudspeakers I had owned were Mission M35i and that had 3 6inch woofers per speaker. And I loved how mellow and large the sound felt... like a big fluffy tedddy bear. So I'm just wondering if a high quality MTM drivers are going to be enough to sound as big as the loudspeakers.Comment
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No speaker designed by JonMarsh is going to sound like a big fluffy teddy-bear....
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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I'm just curious...
Why did your first attempt to buy DIY speakers "fail miserably"??
From this thread:
And, I'm wondering if we're going to hear this again, from this thread:I'm also looking for a matching center for the set I just bought from jbateman.
y'all suck
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That Aperion has a 5.25" woofer, and the Dayton RS180 is a 7" woofer with a fairly long excursion, compared to most commercially available speakers. You could build the Natalie Portman as a floorstander- many folks have done that. It would probably play lower and louder than the Mission M35i. If you upgraded to the Modula MTM crossover, it would certainly have a cleaner, more refined sound.
How large is your room? With a decent sub, the MTs or NatP's should be able to give you the volume most homes would want. You're not going to start a disco with them or anything, but that's not really what they're for.-Joe CarrowComment
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The Emperor would not allow it...Originally posted by ThomasWDFAL
Dark Force Acoustic Labs
A wholly owned subsidiary of Palpatine Heavy IndustriesComment
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okay,
Im sorry, please forgive the following post as it is TRUELY NEWBIE worthy...
The original poster stated that he had Mission speakers before and enjoyed the way they sounded, stating that they sounded Big and Fluffy and while everybody here thought that was a bad thing, he apparently enjoyed that sound.
So here is my question (and this is comming from a newbie, this question comes from a place of newbie curiosity)
What does Big and Fluffy mean to you, and how would you describe one of JonMarshs designs? How would you describe the way sound of a speaker like the Nat P's or the Modula MT's or even the Dayton TMWW's?
Please remember I am asking purely out of curiosity...
ThanksComment
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guys it's just a metaphor- there are many ways to interprerate it and you can't assume that your meaning is same as mine. the characteristics i was trying to conjure with image of big fluffy teddy bear was a warm and neutral sound. By no means was I trying to suggest something like murky or boomy. If I been around hi-fi scene just long enough to have stumbled onto this forum and attempting such task as trying to build my own speakers, you guys should've guessed that I probably have developed enough hearing taste to not opt for murky or boomy sound...Comment
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This isn't a literature forum.Originally posted by CoconutoutWarm and neutral are mutually exclusive terms.the characteristics i was trying to conjure with image of big fluffy teddy bear was a warm and neutral sound.Nope sorry, we don't read minds either.you guys should've guessed that I probably have developed enough hearing taste to not opt for murky or boomy sound...
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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uhh im sorry are we still talking about speakers or just feeding words into eachothers mouth like bunch of kids at a lunch table playing with food? did i write a poem? warm and neutral are 'mutually exclusive'? says who, the dictionary? and you certainly didn't read my last post as whole. I was not trying to cite an arguement but merely to correct some misunderstandings and bring the point back to my question- the reason why I started this thread.Originally posted by ThomasWComment
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What Thomas was trying to say is that speakers (and other audio equipment) are usually described as warm, neutral, or bright. Think of it as turning the tone control to the left for more bass (warm), at the zero location (neutral) or to the right for more treble (bright). So by that definition "warm and neutral" would be mutually exclusive.Comment
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i see... sorry I didn't know better. What I wanted to say was FULL and neutral then. And actually I did buy a pair of DIY just today. zaphaudio.com's vifa xg18/seas 27 MTM in loudspeaker version- it sounds fantastic (neutral and very transparent) and I love it but only in low volumes tho... when I crank it up ear-damagingly high there's distortions. I've read that some MTMs end up with that but I'm wondering if it's something I can fix?Comment
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so once again, talking newbie friendly terms.
If I said I liked warm speakers that were full and transparent. WHat I am really saying is that I like speakers with a tamer high end, room filling sound, and that possesed the quality to make you forget you were actually listening to a speaker.Comment
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IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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