Building Dayton RS WMTW Center

[adamt]

I started building the RS WMTW CC speaker today. I got all my pieces cut out and everything is nice and square. I messed up on cutting the line instead of leaving it on the two side pieces but everything else looks real good. I will cut new side pieces tomorrow.

I have some questions about box construction now. What router bits will I need for all the cutouts, inlay and corner roundings? Also, I am curious as to the front baffle cut outs. Do you glue the front baffle pieces together first before you cut out the speaker openings or do you make the cut outs and then glue them together?

Thanks
Adam

[dawaro]

I started building the RS WMTW CC speaker today. I got all my pieces cut out and everything is nice and square. I messed up on cutting the line instead of leaving it on the two side pieces but everything else looks real good. I will cut new side pieces tomorrow.

I have some questions about box construction now. What router bits will I need for all the cutouts, inlay and corner roundings? Also, I am curious as to the front baffle cut outs. Do you glue the front baffle pieces together first before you cut out the speaker openings or do you make the cut outs and then glue them together?

Thanks
Adam

You will need the following bits:
1/4" straight bit, preferably a spiral bit, for driver recess and holes
45 degree chamfer bit to cut the driver reliefs on the backside of the baffle
3/4" roundover bit for the baffle edges
flush trim bit to trim the veneer

I cut an inner and an outer baffle for mine. The inner fits inside the top/bottom/ sides, the outer was cut 1/4" larger than the enclosure and trimmed with a flush bit to the exact size.

You can look at the Exodus Audio LCR instructions to give you an idea of the enclosure construction. This is the design the original enclosure was based on.
LCR Instructions

[adamt]

45 degree chamfer bit to cut the driver reliefs on the backside of the baffle
3/4" roundover bit for the baffle edges

This post will really show my ignorance on the subject-
I'm going to take a stab at it anyways-
I don't know what driver reliefs are- but when you say chamfer the reliefs-
Does that mean I chamfer the cutout hole on the inside baffle?

I have to apologize-my terminology is still relatively poor on ths subject.

Another question on the baffle edges that you say to roundover. Would I just roundover all the edges on the inside baffle?

One more question-
What about the cutouts on the baffles. Should I glue them together first then make the speaker cutouts- or make the speaker cut outs then glue them together?

Thanks again-
Adam

[yousuredo2]

you want to roundover the outside edges of the outer baffle only...
chamfer the inside of the speaker holes on the inside baffle only...

[Brian Bunge]

You can either chamfer or round over the inside of the speaker holes. It really doesn't make a huge difference either way. I've done both. The point is to allow the backwave from the driver to flow unimpeded.

[kingpin]

Left side is the front of the baffle with the driver recessed.
Right side is the back of the baffle with the 3/4" chamfer plus a little sanding to allow the driver to breath.

Images not available

Mike

[adamt]

Thanks for the pictures.

Is that a double front baffle?

I'm going to take some pictures of my progress in a little while. I;ll post them here as soon as I get back.

[adamt]

The box is just dry fitted together with clamps in these pictures. I put the bottom two in to see if these imperfections need to be fixed before I move on.

I tried cutting the H pieces with a band saw-bad idea. Guess I'll have to buy a jig saw after all.


Images not available


I'm getting closer
Thanks for putting up for my ignorance
Adam

[adamt]

I am planning on gluing the box together tomorrow.

Will the errors that I have shown in the previous post be a problem for me down the road if I don't fix them now? How much forgiveness can you get out of a good trim job with the router?