Extra "stuff" I'll need for speakers?

[WinstonSmith]

As posted elsewhere, I ordered the parts for a pair of Natalie P's. It has occured to me that I'll need extra bits, perhaps foam and the like.

What do I need to have on hand to make it work? Also, is there a recommended reading list? What references should I have/read to increase my knowlege for the task at hand?

[Chris7]

This page has a fairly good summary of what you need for the various parts of a speaker:

http://zaphaudio.com/mantras.html

If your drivers don't come with gaskets, you'll want some gasketing tape/weatherstripping, you may want T-nuts/Propel/Hurricane nuts for mounting, you may want steel wool for sanding off the oxidation/enamel on coils, you'll want pegboards or masonite for mounting your crossover components, etc. Nothing that you can't find at a hardware store. Finishing is really where the need for a lot of little things comes in, but that depends on what finish you're going for.

[kingpin]

Extra money.

[WinstonSmith]

Thanks for the link! Oh, I'm sure I'll need more money too. For finishing, I'll be spraying pre-cat laquer in the warmer months, but as I do not have a heated spraybooth, I'll probably use something like Waterlox right now. Woodworking is one of my main hobbies, so I am fortunate in having most of what I would need for that. I can see saying "drat if I just had X I'd have this finished by now". I suppose that happens in all DIY adventures

[cjd]

Tool-wise you'll be wanting a good router with quality 2" flush-trim bit, 45 chamfer bit capable of a 3/4" depth (I got my bits from MLCS - they have a huge 45 chamfer that's perfect for this and for driver relief on the back of the baffle), spiral upcut is recommended for driver cutouts, a circle jig for router (or templates - I LOVE working with templates but... set up time and all that). Boxes go together so well if you dado, either with router or table saw.

Boxes, designers usually specify what kind of damping is used (foam, fiberglass, ply, or a combination of). In my case I went the 3 layer foam from PE in the lower cabinets and ~1lb poly (I think that's right). It's in the thread on construction though.

I hate t-nuts, even hurricane nuts are rough to work with. They just like to strip out almost as easily (if not more easily) than just screwing directly with a proper size screw.

C

[JonP]

I've had good luck with wetting the hole and nut with 2 part Epoxy before driving them in. Just be careful to not get some in the threads, or wipe it out with a Qtip if you do...

Though the only place I've used those nuts, were with my 15" Sub. Smaller drivers tend not to need them.

[orbifold]

WS, where do you get the pre-cat. I love the stuff but haven't had to do finishing for a few years. I used to get Guardsman material from a local supply but they are only for cabinet shops last I checked. I have parts & pieces to do the RS 3-way LCR's and plan to do black front & back and veneer sides. The starting line is approaching and I will begin posting this first project soon. :B :B :B

[WinstonSmith]

Orbifold, I've had good luck with Mohawk products. There is place in Rochester where I get my supplies and sheet goods. Here is a link to distributors. I suggest using a vinyl sealer underneath lacquer. It's very good, and you can finish more oily woods and not worry about adhesion. Hope that helps.

[orbifold]

Thanks, Winston. Bookmarked that, but no one too close to northern virginia. Gonna do some more looking for finishes even tho I don't cut MDF till next week. Can't wait.