How to use a router?

[Inu_Yasha]

Ok, now it's time to ask a really really noob question... how do I use the 3/4 in roundover bit? I was able to get the flush trim bit to work but I'm left here staring at the roundover bit. When I press it against the wood, the bit isn't flush against the wood (as in the bearing). Is there some trick to aligning it before using it; I'm doing things freehanded and right now I have no extra wood to play with...

[Dennis H]

You'll probably need to take several passes, each one deeper than the last. The bit cuts too much wood to do it all in one pass. To set the depth of the final pass, sight across the router base and adjust it so the outside of the 'ears' is flush with the base.

[dawg1161]

In the same boat here also....does the bearing line up to the bottom of the piece you are trying to roundover? Also when using this for my port in my sonosub if my port's I.D. is 5 3/4" is that the opening i want to cut out and then use the roundover bit to create the flare or do i need to subtract any for the cut out for the roundover.

Sorry Inu_Yasha i am not trying to jack your post but i have the same questions as you i hope?

[Dennis H]

Like this -- red line is the bottom of the router base.

[dawg1161]

go in a clockwise direction?

[Brian Bunge]

Go Clockwise on the inside, such as rounding over the port opening. Go counter-clockwise when rounding over (or routing in general) the outside edges of the cabinet.

[dawg1161]

Thank You Brian. Any thought on my question on the port opening ? If the i.d. of my port is 5 3/4" would that also be my cut out and then use the 3/4" roundover?

[Brian Bunge]

I normally cut the hole in the MDF slightly smaller than the port tube's I.D. Then I mount the port and use a flush trim bit to flush up the hole with the I.D. of the port tube. Then if you want to use a 3/4" roundover bit on 3/4" MDF the bit's bearing will ride on the I.D. of the port and cut the "flare" the full depth of the MDF. In other words, don't try to round over the hole without the the port in place or you'll be creating new strings of profanity that would make a sailor blush.

[cobbpa]

In other words, don't try to round over the hole without the the port in place or you'll be creating new strings of profanity that would make a sailor blush.

x2.

Not with a port, but the concept in general..I've been there. :M

[Inu_Yasha]

Like this -- red line is the bottom of the router base.

Ok, so when you're using the bit, the strange flat piece after the round part isn't used in the rounding over (above the red line, circled in this pic)? Also, how would you go counter clockwise when doing the outside? The blade looks like it can only go clockwise and not the other way around.

[dyazdani]

Ok, so when you're using the bit, the strange flat piece after the round part isn't used in the rounding over (above the red line, circled in this pic)? Also, how would you go counter clockwise when doing the outside? The blade looks like it can only go clockwise and not the other way around.

That is correct on the flat part, I adjust mine exactly like Dennis shows. Take small amounts of wood on each pass until the bearing rides flush. Be very careful when you turn a corner (or any time really) that you do not let the router "tip," it will make a 'v' shaped dent on the edge of the wood. This will make you very angry (I saw a friend do it once :rofl: )

You want the bit to be cutting into the wood as you move the router, that's why you have to go in different directions inside vs/ outside (if you think about it, you'll get it). You are correct though that the cutting side of the blade is only on one side, the leading edge as the router bit turns.

[jonathanb3478]

Also, how would you go counter clockwise when doing the outside? The blade looks like it can only go clockwise and not the other way around.

It is simple, actually. The bit always rotates clockwise (if looking down from the top of the router). That is the direction of rotation of the router. This is why the bit "looks like" it can only cut clockwise, because it can. The thing is, you want to move the router in the direction that causes the side of the bit that is rotating against the direction you are moving the router to do the cutting. This is called the "feed direction". You do not want the bit to act like a wheel that is helping you propel the router in the cutting direction, as this is dangerous.

With a clockwise rotating bit (all bits, all routers), when routing the inside of a hole (like routing a port tube flare), this will be when you rotate the router in a clockwise direction. When routing the outside of a panel (like the outside of a sonosub top plate), this will be when you rotate the router in a counter-clockwise direction.

[oxcartdriver]

Just follow me:

I routed the edge of my TMWW towers and center channel in one pass with the 3/4 in roundover bit. I shorted the armature in my router after only three speakers. I was also plunging with the jasper jig a bit to much while creating the driver openings. The cuts were nice, but the router was vibrating quite a bit.

I was beyound the return period, but Lowe's allowed me to exchange for a new router of equal or greater value.

Now I route 3/4 round overs in two passes. First pass at almost the full depth, and then a final pass with the round over bit after the cabinet is nearly complete.

I'm not the type of guy who borrows tools, and you definitely don't want to loan me a tool of yours. On the good side, I loan my tools out like no tomorrow. No one has ever been harder on my tools than I am.

[---k---]

Just to add a quick note, always practice on scrap first. It is very easy to make mistakes with routers. I know, I've made my fair share.

[BobEllis]

To avoid tipping at corners use an extended router baseplate. Something shaped like the jasper jig made of masonite or plexiglass with a hole large enough to clear your bit. Keep the plate pointing towards the center of the cabinet and put your left hand on it. Voila! A router that doesn't tip.

I don't know if it is the cheap bits I have used or bearing play in my router, but I have found that if I bring flush with the baseplate for my final pass it ends up leaving a small step like the middle picture in Dennis' post. Who knows, maybe it's just my alignment since I typically don't use my reading glasses, but I usually stop just shy of flush to save some sanding. YMMV, etc.

[dyazdani]

You may just have to back off a fraction on the cutting depth to avoid that step.

[BobEllis]

I guess I wasn't clear, but I do back off a 32nd or so. I really was trying to warn others that a little bit wobble may cause problems if you set it up exactly flush. Test your depth on scrap so you don't mess up your good baffle.

Edit: With a 3/4 roundover your scrap will need to be two pieces laminated together.

[Inu_Yasha]

Thanks everyone for all the help! One other question, I've seen some people who use a roundover on the sides, but at the corners, it comes to a point. How do you pull that off? I think the PE baffles do that.

[dyazdani]

Thanks everyone for all the help! One other question, I've seen some people who use a roundover on the sides, but at the corners, it comes to a point. How do you pull that off? I think the PE baffles do that.

You basically have to rout the edge, but when you get to the corner, stop - do not turn the corner with the router. You may have to smooth out the two edges by hand to get the point even.

[Brendan_L]

This is also a good illustration for rounding port flares, but it shows the router depth setup (last photo).

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/flares-10mm.htm

Do you mean a corner like this?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=302-714

The router will do that by itself. Infact, if you don't want the corner rounded like that, you need to be careful or butt a piece of scrap up next to it so you don't 'round the bend'.

[Inu_Yasha]

Do you mean a corner like this?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=302-714

The router will do that by itself.

That's the type I was talking about. I'm thinking about going that route for my corners, but I still haven't completely decided. How hard is it to pull a corner like that with say 13 ply Baltic Birch plywood? I like the look of birch and have already done my sub with birch.

[BobEllis]

Go easy to avoid chipouts - do the roundover in 4-5 passes a little deeper each time. Go as slowly as you can near the corners without burning the wood. Practice on scrap to get a feel for how much you can cut.

[Martyn]

When you're cutting plywood you're always cutting some of the plies across the grain, so there's always the possibility of blow-out especially at the ends of your cut. You can help to minimise this by clamping a scrap piece of wood on the ends of the cabinet flush with the edges you're rounding-over. This will support the wood fibres as the router cutter makes its cut; it will also offer a little more support to your router base. It's a good idea to do this at both the beginning and end of your cut.

[dyazdani]

When you're cutting plywood you're always cutting some of the plies across the grain, so there's always the possibility of blow-out especially at the ends of your cut. You can help to minimise this by clamping a scrap piece of wood on the ends of the cabinet flush with the edges you're rounding-over. This will support the wood fibres as the router cutter makes its cut; it will also offer a little more support to your router base. It's a good idea to do this at both the beginning and end of your cut.

That's a good point.

I think another thing we didn't mention (probably figured this out anyway, but...) is to make sure your work is secured. You don't want it to tip, slide, rock, etc - this is both a safety and quality tip.

[oxcartdriver]

If we're talking safety also make sure the bit is secure in the chuck.

Router bits really hurt when they hit you, even after richoeting off the cement. Yes I'm an idiot with power tools.

Also so you don't have to try: I couldn't generate sparks by routing MDF in the pitch black of night.

[Inu_Yasha]

That's a good point.

I think another thing we didn't mention (probably figured this out anyway, but...) is to make sure your work is secured. You don't want it to tip, slide, rock, etc - this is both a safety and quality tip.

This is by far my biggest problem at the moment... I have no clamps (ducks away in fear). I usually get someone else to hold the item I'm cutting down while I do the cuts. I'm guessing I'll probabbly need to get some clamps soon enough but I'm a little poor right now...

I'm going to be rounding over a 3/4 in piece of plywood, so I need to put another board on the bottom to guide the first board and then what would be the best way to attach another board to the side of the board I'll be working with?

[dyazdani]

This is by far my biggest problem at the moment... I have no clamps (ducks away in fear). I usually get someone else to hold the item I'm cutting down while I do the cuts. I'm guessing I'll probabbly need to get some clamps soon enough but I'm a little poor right now...

I'm going to be rounding over a 3/4 in piece of plywood, so I need to put another board on the bottom to guide the first board and then what would be the best way to attach another board to the side of the board I'll be working with?

Sometimes I'll use some double sided tape to keep my work from sliding, it's worked well for me. It's actually some golf grip tape I have lying around.

[BobEllis]

Another non-slip idea is a bit of that perforated rubber mat sold in kitchen stores for lining shelves. Same stuff as sold in the hardware store for a lot more, does a great job keeping the work from sliding on the table. Holds so well that the work surface wanted to slide off my sawhorses until their tops got treated, too.

[kingpin]

If you are working on a work table screw a 2 x 4 down and use that as a stop for your speaker. So your speaker will be pushing against it as you are routing keeping it from pushing away from you. You can also screw a piece down to the right of it so the 2 pieces screwed on the table are in the shape of an (L).

Mike

[Martyn]

[QUOTE=Inu_Yasha]This is by far my biggest problem at the moment... I have no clamps (ducks away in fear). I usually get someone else to hold the item I'm cutting down while I do the cuts. I'm guessing I'll probabbly need to get some clamps soon enough but I'm a little poor right now...
QUOTE]

I nearly fainted when I read this. If you're not used to using a router, sooner or later you're going to make a cut in the "wrong" direction, e.g. moving clockwise around the outside edge of the part. If the router is fairly powerful, it's likely to take off faster than you can believe, and if the other party's hands happen to be in its path you'll be poor for a very long time while you're paying the legal bills. Please go and beg, borrow, steal, or rent a few clamps...

[jonathanb3478]

I got a couple of these sets when I started assembling speaker construction tools.

I then supplement those with some of the bar clamps from Harbor Freight. I got four 24" bar clamps from them for $3.49. Their internet site had the sale price, but the local HF store price matches their own website.

I also picked up 4 36" barclamps from a HF "sidewalk sale" for $4.99 each.

That is 32 clamps for $78, if you are keeping track.

You should be able to assemble a collection at a very modest price if you look around. :T

[Inu_Yasha]

I got a couple of these sets when I started assembling speaker construction tools.

I then supplement those with some of the bar clamps from Harbor Freight. I got four 24" bar clamps from them for $3.49. Their internet site had the sale price, but the local HF store price matches their own website.

I also picked up 4 36" barclamps from a HF "sidewalk sale" for $4.99 each.

That is 32 clamps for $78, if you are keeping track.

You should be able to assemble a collection at a very modest price if you look around. :T

You know, I was actually looking at that Columbian set, but was wary of it becaue of its price. Are they pretty good quality?

[wildfire99]

Clamps + routers? No way. I've always used the sticky-grippy drawer liners, and I've never had a single slip from whatever I'm working on (so long as you keep the dust from building up under it). It's bad enough to keep the cord from tangling around the router itself, let alone clamps. Use the grippy stuff and never look back. It's cheap enough to replace also if you end up cutting holes in it like I do.

Even when doing baffle board cutouts, just take some chopped ends of a 4x4 and wrap the grippy stuff around it. It sticks to the benchtop and the piece, and you have a nice elevated surface to cut down through without marring the benchtop.

[jonathanb3478]

You know, I was actually looking at that Columbian set, but was wary of it becaue of its price. Are they pretty good quality?

I will say the are "good quality", as I have used all of them many times (especially the bar clamps), and they hold no matter how tight I clamp them down. They are not perfect, but they certainly work well for things like glue-up clamping. I have used the larger C-clamps to secure workpieces to the table I use in my "wood shop" (read: Aunt's backyard porch ops: ) while I route them. I highly recommend a couple of those sets as a starter.

I like them more than the HF clamps at times, since they actually grip about 3 or more inches from the bar. This means you can get them to clamp in from the edge a bit. The HF bar clamps are actually an "edge clamp" style bar clamp.

I suspected I would need more than the 8 bar clamps from my original purchase of two of the Colombian sets. I never suspected that 16 (8 more from HF) would seem like not quite enough at times. :E

EDIT: I see that www.harborfreight.com has the 24" aluminum bar clamps on sale for $3.49, again.

[---k---]

I have some Harbor Freight clamps. Their C-clamps are cheap and work as good as anything. Their bar clamps are cheap, and only 3 of the 4 I bought work - though the price of 4 was still about 1/2 the price of two Rockler. I wouldn't say that they are above average quality, work but they okay. Remember that you'll have to go to Ace Hardware and buy a pipe to go with them ~$10. They'll cut it to the length you need and thread the ends.

I also have two of the Harbor Freight Aluminum bar clamps like Jonathan linked to. I really don't like these. The slider part is limited in where it locks onto the bar. Makes it a little more difficult to work with. They are also probably below average quality. If you just want some cheep clamps for this project, go ahead and get them. If you plan on having more projects in your future, spend a few extra $$.

[Dennis H]

I've always used the sticky-grippy drawer liners, and I've never had a single slip from whatever I'm working on (so long as you keep the dust from building up under it).

Interesting, Patrick. Do you have a link or a source to buy the stuff? I didn't have much luck with google.

[dyazdani]

Interesting, Patrick. Do you have a link or a source to buy the stuff? I didn't have much luck with google.

It's probably this stuff, you can get it at WalMart, etc...

[Dennis H]

Thanks Danish.

[wildfire99]

The last time I got some it was in stock (albeit for more than Wal-Mart) at Lowes. Non-adhesive PVC drawer liner -- it came as 20"x5' or thereabouts, which is a handier size. For general routing I can't see using anything else to keep things in place. Here's a sample:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=90013-46478-91140&lpage=none

But it's all the same generally. Just make sure that you can't run your hand across it (or anything else for that matter). It should be almost impossible to push anything resting on it.

[PMazz]

You can look for non-skid carpet backer as well. It's usually cheaper and comes in large sizes. As it gets loaded with dust and starts to slip around, rinse it in warm soapy water and it'll be good to go again.

Pete

[Ecir38]

What kind of life can i expect out of a 1/4" whiteside up cut.

[ThomasW]

What kind of life can i expect out of a 1/4" whiteside up cut.

This is like asking 'how long will my tires' last'? Obviously it depends on the user.

Abuse bits and they dull pretty fast. Go gentle, use them correctly, they can last for years....