The TC Sounds TC-2000 appears to be the match up to RLP. I am no expect on stats, can someone please tell me if this driver would be superior to the RLP or is the SS still the best buy in the $300 range? I still have a spare channel on EP2500 that I still need to fill and already have one RLP15. Would it be ok to mix drivers as long as they are in seperate cabinets?
SS RLP15 meet its match?
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It's a bit difficult to speculate about a driver no one has ever used...
$40 more for 3.6mm additional Xmax. If you need that added Xmax I suppose it's worth it.
My preference would be for matched drivers.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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actually, the AV15 is the best driver at this price range....at approx $200, it models almost identically to the RP-L, and it is $70 cheaper.- Bottom
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it models almost identically to the RP-L, and it is $70 cheaper.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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nick, so far I'm not very impressed with this driver in a ported configuration (even more so when you consider its price) - I agree with Thomas to stick with matching subs.- Bottom
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I still have a spare channel on EP2500 that I still need to fill and already have one RLP15. Would it be ok to mix drivers as long as they are in seperate cabinets?
And it's unavailable.....- Bottom
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Nick, I apologize, I misinterpretted and thought you were asking about the 3000. So many threads about the 3000 popped up, I thought you were asking about it too, my mistake.
What I have found is that the SVC 2000 15" actually does outperform the RLp15 in just about every category by a bit in a slightly larger enclosure (the RLp15 doesn't want to go larger). That said, I would still stick with duals of the same driver and not mix and match. If someone is starting a new project and doesn't mind the added cost, then I would look into the 2000 - in your case, I wouldn't worry about it.- Bottom
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Thanks, I did get an email from tc sounds and they said with 750 watts that a ported design would perform best and that 1500 watts would be perferred in sealed.
My question is with the RLP15 is 750 watts enough power for a sealed design? My new sonotube design has the kind of output I was looking for from with this driver. My sealed cabinet (4.5 cubic ft) with the RLP15 and 750 watts just didnt rock my house. I did enjoy the tight sound and still thinking about replacing the driver I stole out of it. Hehe :B- Bottom
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Originally posted by ThomasWAnd it's unavailable..... :roll:- Bottom
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Originally posted by ssabripothere are a couple left....according to John :lol: :
I originally wanted to build an AV15 sub but couldn't seem to get ahold of one. So I switched to dual assassins with a loss in performance. Then I decided to part with a little more cash and go with the SS RL-p15 like so many others have successfully done. Now I can't help but wonder about the new TC2000. Good grief. The longer I procrastinate the tougher it gets to decide. To make a long story even longer--now I have waited so long that it is almost summer and I am thinking about waiting to see if the AV15 will come available soon enough for me. Who would have ever thought it would be this hard--and I haven't even started building it yet.
So ssabripo--if you know how I can get an AV15, please let me know :T .
Brett- Bottom
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There will always be something better around the corner. Is living without really worth the very small gains a new driver may give you.- Bottom
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Originally posted by ---k---There will always be something better around the corner. Is living without really worth the very small gains a new driver may give you.
Hey Brett..
Could you tell that story over again?..I found it most entertaining.
By the way. Where's the spell check on this thing?- Bottom
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IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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Originally posted by ThomasWIf you're using IE this is an excellent plug-in
http://www.iespell.com/- Bottom
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Originally posted by ThomasWIf you're using IE this is an excellent plug-in
http://www.iespell.com/
who uses that trash these days????! Go Firefox man....an is extension available to do just about everything south of building you a Subwoofer :lol:Last edited by ssabripo; 15 June 2006, 10:36 Thursday.- Bottom
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[QUOTE=ssabripo]IE???? :E
who uses that trash these days????! Go Firefox man....an is extension available to do just about everything south of building you a Subwoofer :lol:[/QUOTE
Good or bad, I suspect that a large percentage of the people use IE.
Brian Walter- Bottom
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Originally posted by nick77My question is with the RLP15 is 750 watts enough power for a sealed design? My new sonotube design has the kind of output I was looking for from with this driver. My sealed cabinet (4.5 cubic ft) with the RLP15 and 750 watts just didnt rock my house. I did enjoy the tight sound and still thinking about replacing the driver I stole out of it. Hehe :BDarren- Bottom
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Darren, that means it exceeds excursion at 20hz at full 750 watts power, meaning the amp would be at its limits. Hopefully, you shouldn't reach that point too often - if you see your clipping lights light up regularly on demanding scenes, some would say you need more power, but I would say you need more woofage. Having to run tons of power through a driver is the wrong way to approach things in my opinion.
By the way though, I don't see the dual 2ohm RLp15 exceeding excursion in 4.6 cubes with 750 watts power at 20hz, it's more like 10hz. If you want to see an interesting difference in output though, overlay a ported, 9.2 cubic foot box, with a ~15.5hz tuning, and the same amount of power onto your sealed design :W- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasBy the way though, I don't see the dual 2ohm RLp15 exceeding excursion in 4.6 cubes with 750 watts power at 20hz, it's more like 10hz. If you want to see an interesting difference in output though, overlay a ported, 9.2 cubic foot box, with a ~15.5hz tuning, and the same amount of power onto your sealed design :W- Bottom
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Originally Posted by SteveCallas.. By the way though, I don't see the dual 2ohm RLp15 exceeding excursion in 4.6 cubes with 750 watts power at 20hz, it's more like 10hz. If you want to see an interesting difference in output though, overlay a ported, 9.2 cubic foot box, with a ~15.5hz tuning, and the same amount of power onto your sealed design- Bottom
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If you want to see an interesting difference in output though, overlay a ported, 9.2 cubic foot box, with a ~15.5hz tuning, and the same amount of power onto your sealed design .- Bottom
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Originally posted by Scott SimonianHaha! Tried that and got an additional ~5dB at 20hz and ~12dB around the 15hz area. Yikes! Same power, good excursion utilization.- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasBy the way though, I don't see the dual 2ohm RLp15 exceeding excursion in 4.6 cubes with 750 watts power at 20hz, it's more like 10hz.
[/end thread hijack] ops:Darren- Bottom
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So I guess I'll bridge the K1, wire the two subs in series for an 8 ohm load, and hold on. If I smoke the drivers I'll be sure to send you the bill.- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HThat's just the same as feeding each driver with a channel of the amp and I don't really see the advantage other than saving a piece of wire. Drivers in series, amps in series, all the same thing.
If I wire the two subs in series it will present an 8 ohm load to the amp. The K1 bridged and presented an 8 ohm load will output 1100 watts.
If I were connecting each voice coil of a single driver to each channel you would be correct. What I am doing is connecting four 2-ohm voice coils in series for a total load of 8 ohms.Darren- Bottom
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Each of my subs presents a 4 ohm load to the amp. If each sub is connected to a single channel this will result in 550 watts to each sub.
If I wire the two subs in series it will present an 8 ohm load to the amp. The K1 bridged and presented an 8 ohm load will output 1100 watts.
There are some theoretical (maybe not real world) problems with running drivers in series if they don't have identical T/S parameters and box tuning. You can get a situation where the back EMF from the drivers causes them to unload (too much excursion) at certain frequencies near driver resonance. See JohnK's pages for the long explanation. It's probably no big deal in the real world but why take a chance?- Bottom
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Here's what I said:
Having to run tons of power through a driver is the wrong way to approach things in my opinion.
So I guess I'll bridge the K1, wire the two subs in series for an 8 ohm load, and hold on. If I smoke the drivers I'll be sure to send you the bill- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HRight. Either way, each sub gets 550 watts. Six of one, half dozen of the other.Darren- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HThere are some theoretical (maybe not real world) problems with running drivers in series if they don't have identical T/S parameters and box tuning. You can get a situation where the back EMF from the drivers causes them to unload (too much excursion) at certain frequencies near driver resonance.Last edited by DarrenE; 16 June 2006, 08:27 Friday.Darren- Bottom
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If you wire two speakers in series the first driver doesn't use half the power and then pass the other half on to the next speaker. All the power goes through both speakers or neither.I have two identical drivers in two identical sealed enclosures- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HThat is incorrect. All the current passes through both drivers. Each driver sees a voltage equal to half the source voltage. Power is current times voltage so each driver receives half the power.
Can anybody else confirm this. Nothing personal Dennis but I take everything I read on forums with a shovel full of salt. ops: It's usually safer that way.Darren- Bottom
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Dennis is correct. Lets say you had a single channel amp with specs- 200 watts at 8 Ohm, and 750 W at 2 Ohm. You have two 4 Ohm cabinets. If you wire the cabs in series you get an 8 Ohm load, with 100 w going to both cabs. If you wire them parallel the amp sees a 2 Ohm load, with 375 W going to each speaker. Pro Audio guys play with these configuration to get the most power to as many speakers as possible. This is an over-simplified response but I believe it is valid.- Bottom
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Originally posted by DarrenENice RTFM answer. I didn't realize I was on a Linux forum. Good way to drive people off the forum. :roll:- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HHaving a bad day are we? You made it quite clear you weren't interested in anything I had to say so I told you where you could look it up yourself -- the Y in DIY.Darren- Bottom
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I think the point is that you will cause more distortion from the amp and speakers buy running them in series and the amp bridged, and not gain any power(WATTAGE). One channel per speaker is the better choice here. The fact that the terms current and power were miss-used caused the problems.- Bottom
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Most of what I have read on forums has been wrong and it has cost me a lot of money- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dennis HDon't bother. I doubt I'll be trying to help you in the future.
I apologize if it annoys me when I get RTFM answers. Have fun and enjoy flaming the newbies.Darren- Bottom
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"That is incorrect. All the current passes through both drivers. Each driver sees a voltage equal to half the source voltage. Power is current times voltage so each driver receives half the power."
Not quite there yet.
The impedance is doubled over one speaker, so the current is half.
Thus each driver gets 1/2 V, 1/2 A, and 1/4 P.
Total power input is 1/2, but output remains the same because Sd is 2X.
This is why multiple drivers are more dynamic; same output on 1/4 P per driver means less compression and distortion.------------------------------
Noah- Bottom
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Noah, you're making it too complicated. Nobody was comparing 2 speakers vs. 1 speaker with the same amp config. The question was, given two speakers in series, how much power goes to each speaker. Answer, 1/2 the total power goes to each speaker.
The impedance bit was already allowed for in the amp specs -- bridged power into 8 ohms (2 speakers in series) vs. twice the single-channel power into 4 ohms (single speaker). 1100 watts bridged into 8 ohms (split equally between 2 speakers in series) vs. 2x 550 watts/channel into two 4-ohm speakers. Either way, the total power is 1100 watts and each speaker get the same 550 watts.- Bottom
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