Kharma "Khlone"

[moreants]

This is where I'm at with my Kharma-inspired speaker. Front, rear baffles are 1 1/8" mdf. Side walls are 3/4" mdf/felt/1/2"mdf/1/2" carpet padding. Cabinet is tilted 5 degrees back. Woofer section is 1.6cf and is sealed off from mid/tweeter. Midrange in a sealed and damped 1.4L container. X-over for woof will be on the bottom and mid/tweet in top cabinet.

Drivers I had chosen are Seas H1212, H1262 and H282. I am considering changing drivers. (I know, holes made already, kinda limits me). Flange diams' are 8.5", 5.75" and 4.08" so nothing smaller. Any suggestions will be appreciated (except for that $460 Accuton midrange :nutkick: .)


I'm at a point in my construction where I have to make a design decision.
I originally was going the Kharma "Exquisite" route but now I'm liking the "Ceraminique" look (no wood). Also how to finish the edges. I'd like to do a large handrail roundover but my 1/4" collet says "eh-eh". I may do it by hand anyway if I feel like Michelangelo one of these days.

Any suggestions on any of these things would be great.

[Drew]

What's the cabinet volume for the bass section and the mid section?

The Dayton 8" reference woofer and a Peerless Exclusive midrange are easy to recommend, but without knowing more about the specifics of your design these might not be best.

FWIW, I have heard the MCA15 and it is a pretty nice mid, albeit with a limited low end. I wouldn't take it much below 300Hz.

[TacoD]

You can consider something from the Seas Excel range as midrange, I you want to stick to paper you can try the new Nextel midrange E0043 / M15CH002


I cannot find the H282, but I would use a L22 or C22 (alu/ paper woofer) Those magnesium units are not that great in the LF department.

[moreants]

What's the cabinet volume for the bass section and the mid section?

The Dayton 8" reference woofer and a Peerless Exclusive midrange are easy to recommend, but without knowing more about the specifics of your design these might not be best.

FWIW, I have heard the MCA15 and it is a pretty nice mid, albeit with a limited low end. I wouldn't take it much below 300Hz.

The bass section is 1.6cf and the mid is housed in a seperate 1.4l chamber (see pics). Rear-facing port is 3" diam.

I have used the MCA15 before crossed at 330hz with excellent results. Do you have any opinions on the dome midranges, specifically the Dayton or Usher?

[moreants]

Updated pic

Decided to go with the wood veneer on top only. Doubt if I can get the veneer around those sharp corners on top so I may have to go with an Usher-like look.


( http://www.responseaudio.com/usher%20loudspeakers.htm )

[sdl2112]

They are coming along very nice. Can you describe your painting process? are you after a piano black finish? I have always liked the look of the vertical ridges on Kharma's but not sure how I would sand or polish it. I just finished an audio rack with a black painted MFD frame and it is pretty tricky.

Good luck and thanks for any suggestions.

-Scott

[moreants]

They are coming along very nice. Can you describe your painting process? are you after a piano black finish? I have always liked the look of the vertical ridges on Kharma's but not sure how I would sand or polish it. I just finished an audio rack with a black painted MFD frame and it is pretty tricky.

Good luck and thanks for any suggestions.

-Scott

This is my first attempt at lacquer and I have to say I like it , except for the fumes.

I began with a 1 1/8" mdf front baffle and cut the ridges in with a circular saw. Sanded with 400 grit then I painted it with 3 coats of Rustoleum black laquer in the rattle can. Did not use a sander/sealer. Waited a day sanded w/400 then 600 then 1000 then 0000 steel wool , all doused in mineral spirits. Then 3 more coats. Waited 2 days then repeated the sanding and 2 more coats of black.

After another 2 days repeated sanding and then 2 coats of clear lacquer. 2 more days and then 600, 1000 and 0000 all in mineral spirits. Followed by Turtle wax polishing compound . Final luster is from spray silicone oil.

Finishing one at a time to get the procedure down. Top part still undecided as to veneer.

[ThomasW]

Wow those look pretty spiff..... :B

I haven't been a fan of that particular enclosure design/shape until now. For some reason they always looked unappealing even with Jim Salk's or Kharama's finest woodworking efforts. But the gloss black does the job...... :T

[moreants]

Wow those look pretty spiff..... :B

I haven't been a fan of that particular enclosure design/shape until now. For some reason they always looked unappealing even with Jim Salk's or Kharama's finest woodworking efforts. But the gloss black does the job...... :T

You think I should finish the top in gloss black too? I've been trying to find a wood veneer for the top sides but I have to admit I like the black more and more.

[ThomasW]

Yes I think all black is definitely the way to go....

[TacoD]

I like it in full black . Very nice job.

[jonathanb3478]

I've been trying to find a wood veneer for the top sides but I have to admit I like the black more and more.

The all black is very monolithic. And you seem to have the ability to create a high quality finish with the black, too. Very nice!

I have been thinking of switching to an all black finish for my project, too. Partly because a 4'X8' sheet of Santos Rosewood is ~$200, but mostly because I would be "qualified" to repair a painted finish. I do not know that I could ever fix an issue that came up with a large veneered surface (single 43"x46" panel around an elliptical enclosure). Could just replace it, but removing the damaged original would be a horrible experience, and the replacement would set me back another $200.

Wondering if I should let myself not use my favorite finish because of something that might happen to it in the future, though. Seems kind of defeatist, right?

[David Meek]

That's a georgeous enclosure! If they sound anywhere near as good as they look, then you've created something special. And I agree with Thomas, the black is the way to go. :T

[moreants]

Final design. Mostly all black but a little wood set it off nice I thought.

Not like any Kharma but borrows styling cues from several.

[ThomasW]

All right, that looks really good.. :B

The black does it's job and the wood accents work great.... :T

[moreants]

All right, that looks really good.. :B

The black does it's job and the wood accents work great.... :T

Thanks Tom. Here it is completed for now. Still thinking about which way to go with a base. Also I am considering Excels.

[jonathanb3478]

Still thinking about which way to go with a base.

Instead of a "base", how about 4 of these on each speaker. The black chrome would go well with your excellent finish:

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=%Êrt_id%%&pid=1288

[moreants]

Instead of a "base", how about 4 of these on each speaker. The black chrome would go well with your excellent finish:

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind..._id%%&pid=1288

I have a similar set I got from PE but I'm afraid it would make them tippy. I may give them a try though.

[jonathanb3478]

I have a similar set I got from PE but I'm afraid it would make them tippy. I may give them a try though.

I am planning on a 3" tall base with 30-deg chamfered edges, making the base about 17.2" X 22.7" vs the speaker's 13.75" X 19.25". On the bottom of that there will be six of these for each base. They will be responsible for ~35lbs, each. I already have 25 of them (ordered 24, and they sent me 25 of those, plus a single 1.375" one - go figure).

[m1ke323]

Moreants, you say you got the final luster from spray on silicone oil. Does the silicone oil dry leaving it a not so shiny finish again? I love your finish but want to keep it shiny like that all the time. I know a good polish everyonce in a while is needed, just wanted to make sure you weren't spraying the silcone oil on to make it look better for the picture. Thanks

Mike

[moreants]

Moreants, you say you going the final luster from spray on silicone oil. Does the silicone oil dry leaving it a not so shiny finish again? I love your finish but want to keep it shiny like that all the time. I know a good polish everyonce in a while is needed, just wanted to make sure you weren't spraying the silcone oil on to make it look better for the picture. Thanks

Mike

I tried wax on the front but with the grooves on this cabinet I couldn't get all the wax out. I had used spray silicone oil before on projects that were covered w/polyurethane and it worked great so I tried it on this one. I rub it on with a piece of felt. It only requires a wiping with the same felt (without adding more silicone) every 2-3 days and then more silicone every couple of weeks or so.

I should emphasize here that this is the procedure I've used on Polyurethane projects and don't know the long term effects on lacquer. I am willing to take the risk but others may not. Again if it weren't for the grooves I'd stick with wax.

Also the sides are not lacquer but reverse painted acrylic panels. I've used them before and they give you a perfect piano gloss every time. I tried lacquer on the sides but was disappointed at the outcome. The acrylic, many would say, gives an undesirable plastic finish but it is perfectly smooth and should be more durable than the paint.


Thanks for bringing it up as I should have given more details originally.

[m1ke323]

Thanks for the quick response Moreants.

The side are what I really like over yours. Could you explain how you made them.

I assume you bought clear acrylic (how thick?) and painted the backside (what type of paint?). Did you do any sort of polishing to the front side? Also how did you then attach the panels painted side to the cabinet.

Thanks

Mike

Edit: On a side note, has anyone ever tried powder coating their enclosure for a piano finish. My dads shop has a ton of powder coating done on their parts (they are metal, but I know mdf powder coating is possible). The parts are white but extremely smooth and shiney, Im not sure if black would produce a piano finish though.

[moreants]

Thanks for the quick response Moreants.

The side are what I really like over yours. Could you explain how you made them.

I assume you bought clear acrylic (how thick?) and painted the backside (what type of paint?). Did you do any sort of polishing to the front side? Also how did you then attach the panels painted side to the cabinet.

Thanks

Mike
.

Clear acrylic panels were bought at Lowes and are .080" thick. 36" x 72" was $30 and was enough for both ( if you don't screw-up) :banghead: . The panels are painted with Rustoleum "Paint for Plastic" after lightly sanding with 400 grit and wiping with rubbing alcohol then drying. I've tried other paints with success but this is best. I attach the panels using PL polyurethane construction adhesive, which I also use for cabinet construction.. It will not affect the paint as some other types of adhesives will. Keep the adhesive about 1" away from edges because polyurethane glue expands during curing :duh:. Clamp for at least 8 hours.

Front and back were polished w/Turtle Wax polishing compound by hand then wiped residue off and buffed with a Mothers' Powerball ($23 at Autozone).

[Martyn]

Moreants, you say you got the final luster from spray on silicone oil...

Beware of products containing silicone. Once you have used it you'll never get rid of it, and even trace amounts that find their way onto surfaces that you're preparing for finishing will interfere with the subsequent finishes. Unless you like "fisheyes", of course...

There aren't many things that I would attempt to ban my wife from doing, but using furniture polishes containing silicone is one of them. Similarly, I won't allow silicone products anywhere near any of my (too numerous) vehicles.