I was about to pull the trigger on a PB12+/2, but have decided to go the DIY route after a lot of reading this week on various threads here. I want to build 2 sonosubs with the SS RL-p dual 4 ohm modeled after chasw98, and hopefully some input from you all. I look forward to posting here and learning as much a I can from you. Thanks ahead of time, Tommy
First post, & I'm inspired....
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I just finished my first sub last night. I was a complete newbie to DIY so it is possible. You should be able to easily surpass the performance of the SVS. I am surpassing the performance of my 25-31 PC+ and I built a sealed sub so you should be able to destroy it with a ported sub. :TDarren- Bottom
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2 sonosubs against a PB12+/2 ?? LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of those sonotubes will put it to shame!
I've been to Chuck's house plenty a times, and it is awesome...almost as awesome as mine..hehe. You will be trilled with one, and two will put a Ultra/2 to shame. My AV15 box and the RP-L15 sono's are somewhere between the Ultra and Ultra/2 in performance, so 2 of them will be a sight to behold.
good luck and enjoy the journey!!- Bottom
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I also had my sights on the Plus/2 early on, but boy am I glad I stumbled upon a few inspirational diy projects a couple of years ago.- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasI also had my sights on the Plus/2 early on, but boy am I glad I stumbled upon a few inspirational diy projects a couple of years ago.- Bottom
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Originally posted by chasw98You do realize that 2 of them are pretty imposing in an ordinary room I am still trying to get my wife to let me put a second one in.
Chuck
1 will probably do you well, but if you must do 2, know what you are getting yourself into.
Have fun.- Bottom
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don't let the "crew" over at avs and audioholics know...
As for the size, if you use 20" diameter tube like chasw did, keeping the footprint small and using height to get your volume, two of them shouldn't be bad at all. It looks very manageable in this shot:
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Great looking setup by the way Chuck :T- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasTwo years ago, it honestly didn't have any real competition (commercial) at that price point.
As for the size, if you use 20" diameter tube like chasw did, keeping the footprint small and using height to get your volume, two of them shouldn't be bad at all. It looks very managable in this shot:
Great looking setup by the way Chuck :T- Bottom
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You know, Chuck's doesn't look that bad. Mark's seemed much larger to me in person. But his is 24" Dia x 43" tall.
Not trying to talk anyone out of it, just the opposite. But, I just want to make sure everyone knows what they are getting themselves into.- Bottom
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Thanks for the replies. I know what I'm getting into with two. I'm preparing for my dedicated HT when I build my new home. I ordered my sonotube today (they were out of 20"). A 12' section was only $74 so if I'm building, make two and never look back!!- Bottom
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Originally posted by w8liftrNow to decide if I want to copy chasw98 or go with Steve's suggestion in the "ridicubass" thread. I'll be using the Behringer EP2500 for my amp.
decisions decisions decisions :T- Bottom
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Now to decide if I want to copy chasw98 or go with Steve's suggestion in the "ridicubass" thread. I'll be using the Behringer EP2500 for my amp.
Steve, didn't you suggest the dual 4ohm for ported enclosures?- Bottom
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Thanks for the link, they are available there, but I get a discount for multiple drivers buying direct.- Bottom
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I'll start a design/construction thread so I can get some advice and ask questions
Your project to be looks quite interesting and I'm sure your going to be most impressed. As far as comparing two sono's to the /2, it's a no brainer, but a guy needs to remember that dual PB12-Ultra's will surpass the /2. The /2 is a compromise considering the enclosure doesn't increase in size proportionately to the driver increase, along with being higher tuned. With that being said.. it cant compete because of shipping purposes.
What your going to experience is that you will be able to build your own DIY option using the RL-p coming in with a lower tune and still be able to meet or exceed the performance of other subs mentioned with a higher tune in the higher FR...as the FR gets lower the RL-p will move even farther ahead. If you built a 25 Hz tuned RL-p option, God only knows what it would be able to achieve in the 30 to 50ish range? All this comes at a cost though, not necessarily $$ of course, because this is DIY, but in the fact that it'll take some work on your part. Going the sono option will require the least amount of work (in some ways) from what I hear. I like to cut wood, but admittedly I'll get around to doing a sono some time so I can have the experience. Building a sub doesn't take long at all, it's the finish process that can take the time and prepping the unit so it all comes out as clean as possible.
Looking forward to you sharing your impressions and experience.
Steve nn- Bottom
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Originally posted by steve nnOr you could just keep this one going? The longer a Thread is up on the boards the more it gets noticed and subsequently more help.
Welcome to the RL-P15 club.
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I was thinking of going this route that Steve posted in the ridicubass thread
This may be too big for you, I don't know, but a 20" diameter tube that is 64" tall will result in just about 300 liters after you subtract the driver, port, and end cap volume. A 7" diameter port that is 30" long results in ~16.6hz tune with a first port resonance at 225hz - feed it with 1000 watts and you are very solid. You may or may not need a high pass filter - chasw's is tuned a bit higher and he reported no problems playing loud without one, but I don't know if that is a risk you want to take.- Bottom
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Well the problem there is that I don't think they make 7" diameter sonotube or PVC. I've since refined that design a bit to ~260 effective liters with a 6" diameter port that is 28" long for ~16.2hz tune. If you use a flare at the top, you can use 27" of length, or just accept the slightly lower tune (16hz), a miniscule difference either way. And the 750 watts from a Behringer ep2500 will suffice.- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasWell the problem there is that I don't think they make 7" diameter sonotube or PVC. I've since refined that design a bit to ~260 effective liters with a 6" diameter port that is 28" long for ~16.2hz tune. If you use a flare at the top, you can use 27" of length, or just accept the slightly lower tune (16hz), a miniscule difference either way. And the 750 watts from a Behringer ep2500 will suffice.- Bottom
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Using a 20" diameter tube, and taking end caps, driver, and port into consideration, this puts you at roughly 56" of tube height. Add legs, end caps, and a base plate, and the finished product should be just over 5' tall.- Bottom
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What do you guys use to design sonotubes?
w8liftr, will you be using 3 layers of MDF for the bottom cap (2 inside) and 2 for the top cap, or how were you planning on doing it? One thing I would suggest is using the spare circle from the driver cuout to create a smaller ring that can be used as an extra layer for supporting the port on the top cap - this way you aren't taking up as much volume.- Bottom
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Yeah, I was planning on using 3 layers for the bottom and two for the top. I like the idea of using a smaller piece for supporting the port tube. I was going to ask about using fiberglass for supporting the port. I used to build boxes for car audio and would glass them inside and out for strength.- Bottom
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Originally posted by Dougie085I'm asking what do you use to figure the volume of the tubes? What dimensions you need and what not?
Or just use an online calculator. :T
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Height of the tube X internal tube diameter (or twice the radius) X PI (3.14) = Volume
(ID radius^2) x 3.14 x tube height- Bottom
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Originally posted by SteveCallasActually I don't think that is correct, diameter x 3.14 gives you the circumference, not area. What you want to use to find the volume of the tube is:
(ID radius^2) x 3.14 x tube height
Ooops, PI r^2 for volume instead of PI rX2...which is another reason I just use the online calculator. :B- Bottom
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Calculators work for me :B Ok now what are cubic units? Does the calculator use inches or somthing else?
Also i was wondering would it work ok if i did a sealed design and used 2 RLP-12's one on the top of the tube and one on the bottom? Or should i just use a wide tube like 30" wide or somthing and put them both on the bottom, or just make 2 sonotubes.
I put in 20inch radius, 50inch height and it gives me 62831.86 Cubic inches im guessing. Am i doing this right? I'm trying to remember what the radius is? is it half the width or the full width?- Bottom
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To comfortably fit two 15" driver on a bottom cap would require at least a 40" diameter tube, and would present more problems then benefits - either make two subs or put one on top and one on bottom.
As for that calculator, no, you should not end up with 62831 cubic inches, I don't know what type of value that is showing. A 20" diameter tube that is 50" tall will give you a raw 16328 cubic inches, or 267 liters.- Bottom
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Thomas has on his site a Sonosub project where he fired one up and one down. I think that is probably the best solution if you want to put two drivers in the same tube. The two drivers will help with vibration by cancelling each other out too.
And, why bother with an RL-P12? They are only very marginally cheaper than the 15". Get the 15" and never look back!- Bottom
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