1095 and heat.

[PiDD]

I have my 1095 on the very top of my rack and had some heat issues. The amp would go into protection pretty easily.

What I did was put a couple of 6" computer fans on top and tied them into a rely and a 12v trigger. This has deduced the heat significantly!

I am guessing but I believe the protection circuit is based on heat. It gets to a certain temp and triggers turning off that channel.

Now by over cooling the amp am I changing when that protection will kick in .. possible over driving the amp?

any thoughts?

[aud19]

Nope. They're built to run with air space and adequate cooling. If it's staying cool enough by either adequate air space or other cooling methods to not trip the protection, it's fine, as obviously you're keeping it cool enough to run in spec

Jason

[PiDD]

you're keeping it cool enough to run in spec

But what if I am over cooling and running it cooler than spec? Two 80,, fams is cooling at about 40 CFM!

[aud19]

I'd say if you can place your hand on it and it's even remotely warm your fine. There's pretty slim chances you're getting it any cooler than room temperature as the amp creates a fair amount of heat and that 40CFM of air is still room temperature air anyways so unless you're running it in a walk-in deep freeze, (in which case you should have had no heat problems to begin with :lol: ), you're fine. If you want, try running just one fan if nothing ese it will be quieter. Now quit worrying and go back to enjoying that beautiful amp!

Jason

[PiDD]

OK .. OK!

I just blew one driver .. I dont want to blow another!


I love when the wife and kid go out for a while. Time to crank up Blue Man Group!

[ht_addict]

If your overheating the unit and its on top of your rack either the room your in is extremely hot or the unit it faulty. I had a 1095 for a while and never did it get anywhere near lukewarm after watching a movie. I have a feeling something is wrong with your unit or your cranking it to ear blisterning levels.

ht_addict

[PiDD]

or your cranking it to ear blisterning levels

:W

Rob

[aud19]

HT_addict, it could be that PiDD doean't have adequate airspace around the 1095 requiring the fans to move air. I do agree if you've got inches of airspace on all sides in an open rack (no doors/back etc) it should not be overheating.

Jason

[soundhound]

Food for thought, is there an impedance problem? This will not only generate heat (low Z) , current rises, as well as cause premature protection. Are all speakers one speaker to one channel, or have some been paralleled, wich will halve the impedance.

[PiDD]

I have about 1" on the sides and 4" on top (with holes drilled in the top of the cab for further cooling). It is open in the front and back.

is there an impedance problem?

Each speaker is driven with a single channel. What I did notice was that the center channel was going into protection very easily but then noticed that the tweeter was blown. I replaced it and have had no problems since. Do speaker wire lengths play in here? I have about 180' total. It's 14-4 wire with 2 leads joined (no bi-wire) to make about a 9g wire.

I was concerned about heat, the 1095 would get very hot. I added the fans and now it is very cool even at high vols. But then I was concerned that the protection circuit wouldnt kick in as fast as it should?

[aud19]

That does seem like it should give adequate cooling... What speakers are you running? Are they difficult to drive? Perhaps the combo of innefficient speakers, a LARGE room, VERY LOUD volumes for extended periods and adequate but not ideal airspace would cause the problem but it may be something you might want to check out...

Jason

[PiDD]

I am running the Onix Rocket speakers (Efficiency: 88 dB (@ 1 watt / 1 meter). Not the easiest speaker to drive but not a difficult one either. The room is 12x40 so I would call that med/large and I do have to turn up the volume a bit. Also I am looking 40 dead in the eyes so age is also a factor :W

I do listen loud .. say 80 on the dial (peaks to 105db).

[soundhound]

Protection circuits are "normally" current driven versus thermally driven all though there is both on board. I am not certain if rotel ties protection common or if it is done discretely(Channel by channel) i have never pushed my amp's hard enough to discover this. It may not be a bad idea to double check your'e center speaker resistance to see if something in your'e crossover changed value along with your'e tweeter opening up. #14 wire is good for 15 amps so I doubt the length of youre runs is a factor. Jason probably nailed it with 3 or 4 variables working against you things will tend to add up. Here's to 40 (something), kids are gone, now we can enjoy the finer things in life, like Rotel toys.......Bob