CDs Sound Like an AM Radio on my 1056!

**Kevin D** · 25 April 2006, 08:32 Tuesday

Sounds like there's a problem with the front speaker connections. Like one or more of the front speaker wires is out of phase.

I would check all the speaker wires to make sure all positives on the amp go to positives on the speakers.

How did they connect the 1075 to bi-amp the fronts? I would bypass the 1075 and just hook one speaker wire to the 1056 terminals. Be sure to put the terminal jumper back in the speaker when only using one wire to hook it up.

What did the installer say? If it sounds a tad better then AM, surely he doesn't think it sounds right.

Kevin D.

**frank1203** · 26 April 2006, 11:56 Wednesday

Thanks for your input Kevin.

I did go back and check all the connections and all was fine with the positive and negative connections being proper.

As I said in the first post, the installer re-checked everything and came up with a similar conclusion that no installation problems exist. He didn't feel the sound was as bad as I was making it out to be and felt that I had to "change my listening ear" a bit and get used to a higher-end sound. I don't know whats right or wrong, but I will say that my ear is definitely accustomed to 20 years of "equalized" sound which was my old analog system rinning through an EQ into some very bright Bose 601 speakers. The only way I can know if this is a probelm or not would be to have someone come out who is more familar with the Rotel sound (maybe the dealer?) and listen.

Rotel tech support has been great and they have taken me through a number of settings / adjustments and it has helped a bit so maybe the problem is what my ear is used to and expecting to hear. Changing the settings from optical to analog for the CD player definitley helped a bit.

What are your thoughts? Any suggestion as to where I should go from here?

Your help is appreciated.

**NonSense** · 26 April 2006, 12:33 Wednesday

Frank

Were all the pieces bought at the same time?

There could be a couple of factors playing out here.

When you start to get into better equipment, the better equipment is also more revealing. If the quality of your playback souce is substandard compared to the electronics down the chain, it will be very noticeable. I have not heard the 5 disc yamaha, but it may be a nick in the chain. Also, alot of people, including myself, prefer a coaxial digital interconnect over the optical The DAC's on the 1068 may outperform the yamaha with this type of connection.

Have the speakers had a chance to break in? Since the drivers are a mechanical system, they will require a period to break in. Some people refer to the cahnge as the speakers gaining an open sound. Some speakers require 100+ hours at higher than normal listening levels to give the drivers a good workout. Listening at low levels probably won't do the trick.

And finally, you mentioned you were moving from a 2CH system. It is very difficult to ever achieve the best of both worlds. Unless you go for some really high end gear. A 5Ch system is often a compromise over a modest 2CH rig. On a 5Ch system, you usually get alot of technology for the money, but when compare to a dedicated 2Ch system, it is hard to beat the performance. This is all relative to the quality of the 2CH system you replaced.

Although some do not agree, cable and interconnect may also make a difference. I wouldn't advise going over the top, but using the analog cables that may have come in the yamaha box is probably not a good idea either.

Since the tuner sounds good, you can expect that there probably isn't a problem with the down stream gear or cabling.

**Marlboroman** · 26 April 2006, 13:55 Wednesday

If the tuner sounds good but the CD does not then I would think that problem would be with either the source equipment or the source CD. Are these store bought CDs or burned copies?

**Marcel B** · 26 April 2006, 14:40 Wednesday

I would listen to stereo without using the subwoofer.
Setting the sub to MAX often gives too much bass.

I would suggest to set the 1056 to 2ch or bypass and audition it again

Marcel B

**gianni** · 26 April 2006, 16:31 Wednesday

Have you tried connecting the CD player to the 1056 using the Multi-inputs?

**frank1203** · 27 April 2006, 12:25 Thursday

The only way that I can hear the sub-woofer is to set it to Max. If I try any other settings, it cannot be heard at all. Don't know why that is or if you have a solution for that.

The 1056 is definitely already set to 2 channel stereo for CD. This was done at the recommendtaion of Rotel Tech Support.

**frank1203** · 27 April 2006, 12:27 Thursday

Gianni,

I am intrigued by your response, but I am not sure I know or understand what a multi-input does so obviously I must not be using it. I'd appreciate an explanation if you have a chance to reply back. Thanks.

**gianni** · 27 April 2006, 13:12 Thursday

Multi-inputs are provided on the back next to the other inputs. They are to provide a means to connect a multi channel disc player to the receiver or preamp with an analog connection instead of using a digital one. This allows you to:

1) Use the digital to analog converter in a player instead of the one in the preamp or receiver. This may or may not sound better depending on the equipment used.

2) Provides for a means to use a player with formats that can't bo processed by the 1056 - an attempt to do a little future proofing.

Using the multi-inputs bypasses most of the circuitry in the 1056, rendering the cleanest path for the signal. You will not have any processing or bass management using this input but many do find it to sound the best if the source which is feeding it is of good quality (good DVD or CD player). A copy of the incoming signal is made and used to generate the output to allow you to connect and still use a sub. You will have to do some experimenting to arrive at the best sound for your system and tastes.

One thing that makes me think something is not right in your system is the fact that you have to crank the volume to 80 and then the sound begins to improve. Something is not right. Do not give up, this sytem should sound very nice. Good luck and keep us posted.

**NonSense** · 27 April 2006, 17:03 Thursday

Frank

The 1056 has an analog bypass option that bypasses the digital processing on the analog inputs. This gives a similar playback to the multi-input connection for 2CH. (the 1055 required the use of the multi-input to bypass the processing as it had no bypass option)

I would expect that if the bypass is enabled, no low frequency information can be extracted from the analog signal. This would be the reason you don't get any output from your sub during this type of playback. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. This is definitly the case for the multi-input.

Is there anything other information that you gan give about the system?

Is all the gear plugged into a $5 power bar?

**Stev** · 27 April 2006, 18:49 Thursday

Frank the way I read it you are using the cd analog inputs with a default setting of stereo for the cd input, with your speakers set to large, and sub set to max ? If this is the case you probably do have a muddy bass sound as your getting to much bass. I'm not familiar with your speakers - are they floorstanders or bookshelves ? If they are floorstanders i would change your cd default setting to "bypass" not stereo in the menu this will give you an unprocessed full range signal straight to your mains - the sub will not work. If this isnt bassy enough for you due to your tastes or your speakers capability you need to add a sub - best way IMO is to set your mains to small and the sub to yes start with a xover of say 80hz and play with the settings from there. The adjustability of the 1056 means you can go backwards pretty quick with xover settings if you dont fully undertsand what is going on so I would suggest you just use the master xover setting in the subwoofer set up menu to start with and dont go adjusting anything in the advanced menu to start with. There are a few different ways to configure the sub xover but the easiest to get a feel for what different settings will do for the sound is just to use the master xover in the 1056 and set the xover on your sub to its max setting or off if you have the option to do so. Give it a try and see how you go !

Steve

**frank1203** · 28 April 2006, 06:39 Friday

Thank you to everyone for all of their input and recommendations. Let me try to answer some of the questions asked...

The tech support guy from Rotel also recommended setting the input for the CDs to by-pass instead of stereo and seeing how I liked that, but I chose not to use that idea. Why? Because, in my opinion, by-pass is a clean/unfiltered connection that would not allow me to use the Contour settings for the High Frequency and the low frequency. Remember guys, right or wrong, I did say that I was very accustomed to listening to "equalized" music which allowed me to accentuate those thuds and sizzles that I really enjoy!. If I use by-pass, I take away my bass and treble. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Someone asked about my speakers.. They are all paradigm speakers - which is very good equipment. The two Front standing are Studio 100 which are fairly high end. I have a top of the line center channel and a middle of the line sub-woofer and two rear surrounds. I have two pieces of equipment that play CDs - One is a Yamaha 5 disc changer (low to middle of the line) to shuffle CDs all day while I work around the house and the otehr is the CD part of the Sony DVD player which is a single play, more high end unit.

Third - no it is not all connected with a $5.00 power bar. in fact, I have two line conditioners - one surge for the TV that is actually connected in the wall to the back of the TV and the other is connected to all the components. They are both made by Furman and were fairly expensive.

I'm still not sure I understand some of the comments about why my sub woofer is only working when I set the 1056 to Max. I think it sounds like, I can set it to something less, but I'm not sure how that is done because I've tried. Yes, I do agree that the sub sound is muddying the system and what I have been able to do is to decrease the sound by manually lowering it through the use of the 1056 Remote.

As far as multi-input. I think I understand it better now (thanks) but it also appears that I don't need to use it because changing the CD setting to by-pass will accomplish the same result.

Thanks again and I apprecaite your help.

**Kevin D** · 28 April 2006, 09:02 Friday

Your sub only works when set to MAX because you have speakers set to LARGE. The large/small refers to the frequency reproduction ability of your speakers, not to the physical size of them. Very few speakers ever need to be set to large.

As others have suggested, you need to set ALL of your speakers to SMALL, and your sub to YES. If the installer that came out is the one that set them to large, I would honestly call back and request a more knowledgeable installer to come out and check everything else.

Now, this may be harder to take. I honestly don't think you like the way your Paradigm's sound. Tone controls will not take the place of an EQ, they only boost a very limited range of frequencies. When you use an EQ, you drastically alter the sound of a speaker. I think you either don't like (or haven't gotten used to) the way your speakers naturally sound.

You should probably get an EQ or start shopping for some speakers that you like without an EQ. Nothing you do to the 1056 is going to make your 100's sound like they did hooked to an EQ.

Definitely set the speakers to small, re-adjust all your levels, and let us know.

Kevin D.

**Scherr** · 28 April 2006, 10:06 Friday

You really need more power than the 1056 can provide with Studio 100's. I would suggest getting a powerful 2 channel amp.

Scott

**frank1203** · 28 April 2006, 11:44 Friday

I do have a more powerful Amp! The 1056 is only powering the Rear surrounds. The Studio 100 Fronts are bi-amped (4 outputs) and the Center Channel (1 output) are connected to the RMB-1075 Amp. I think the system has more than enough power.

**Tha Freak** · 28 April 2006, 12:10 Friday

I would suggest to do the "elimination of problems" way...

try to isolare the problem...

start by removing the power amp (1075) and connecting everything to the 1056.

still a problem? not the amp.

connect the DVD player in the CD input and try both analog and digital inputs. (and vice versa)

still a problem? probably not the CD or DVD input.

use another CD and DVD player (from a friend?).

still a problem? probably not CD or DVD player.

Switch HP, use the surrounds as fronts (and vice versa).

still a problem? probably not the HP's

and on and on and on...

after everything, still a problem? probably a bad 1056...try with another receiver (from the same friend :B )

my suggestion to your problem, for what it's worth!!

**Scherr** · 28 April 2006, 15:03 Friday

Originally posted by frank1203

I do have a more powerful Amp! The 1056 is only powering the Rear surrounds. The Studio 100 Fronts are bi-amped (4 outputs) and the Center Channel (1 output) are connected to the RMB-1075 Amp. I think the system has more than enough power.

Sorry, my mistake!

Scott

**drsiebling** · 28 April 2006, 18:03 Friday

Frank: the answers to your problems are in Kevin D's last post. You need to set your speaker settings to SMALL and your sub to YES. I also agree with Kevin that you should consider auditioning different speakers. If the person who set up your system set everything to large, then he didn't know what he was doing. Switching everything to SMALL is a simple fix to your problem and will probably cure most of the problems you are experiencing.

-B

**howburger** · 28 April 2006, 19:14 Friday

Last year I upgraded to a Rotel RSP1068 processor and a RMB1095 amp. My prior system was a Yamaha RX-V992 Receiver. I still have the same Yamaha CDC-665 5 disc CD player. The player sounded decent through my Yamaha receiver, or at least as good as the Yamaha was able to sound. Now, running the player through the 1068, so obvious to me is that the 1068 and 1095 are so much more revealing, that all but the very best CD recordings sound almost unenjoyable. I was surprised at the difference and was very dissapointed, thinking something was wrong with the Processor. The highs are very shrill and the midrange is very grungy and grainy sounding. I've tried using both the 1068 DAC's and the Yamaha DAC's. I know that the processor and amp are capable of sounding absolutely beautiful because my better sounding concert DVD's and DVD Audio recordings sound fantastic. The better recorded CD's, such as The Legend of Johnny Cash and Dire Straits' Brothers in Arms, sound pretty good too. For all but the best CD's I'm convinced that a call for the RCD1072 or the Benchmark DAC1 is in order. Oh well, one more thing on the priority list. :gah:

Harold

**grit** · 28 April 2006, 19:51 Friday

Let me add to that. I have a 1068 and 1095. My sources are the 1060 and 1072. I've gone through 2 sets of speakers (upgrade, nothing wrong with the first set). I think CDs sound amazing. Things like sound stage, ambiance, etc. are revealed, and I couldn't be happier.

In just a simple comparrison, Harold has a similar setup with a Yamaha source, and has a vastly different result. I honestly believe the source player makes a large difference. I didn't believe that until I got into this hobby. I think your system is showing flaws that were previously masked. I hope you'll be able to get them resolved so you can enjoy your new equipment. It's well worth it.

**frank1203** · 30 April 2006, 17:55 Sunday

Thanks to everyone who responded for all of your help !

I wanted to give you the latest. I took the suggestion to set all of the speakers to small and the sub woofer to yes. There DEFINITELY was a difference. What I got from many of the posts was that the music maybe getting to "muddied" up with bass from both the sub woofer set to Max, as well as all the rest od the speakers set to large.

I was listening for a long while today in this new manner and I can definitely hera more of the separation between the highs and the lows and am getting more of the "sizzle" that I really like. I agree that I will never get the system to sound like one that has an EQ but things are definitely improved.

I guess some bad comes with the good though and maybe someone out there can give me some additional ideas.... Even with the current settings to small and the sub woofer to YES, there is still alot of bass. No - not as much as with the prior settings, but still enough to muddy the sound. I took matters into my hands and using the remote manually, I set the sub woofer to the lowest setting and also lowered the low frequency setting for the speakers. When I did that, I seemed to get more of what I'm after.

How can I make this remain? I know I can adjsyt the contour settings, but I don't think the sub-woofer being set at minimum and the low frequency setting also being at minimum is right. I think at least one of you mentioned something about adjusting the cross overs.. I know nothing about this, and could use some help here. I'm guesing that making that adjustment may get me to where I want to be.

I think we're slowly getting there. I appreciate any additional help that you can provide. Thanks

Frank

gd · 30 April 2006, 19:36 Sunday

Originally posted by frank1203

I don't think the sub-woofer being set at minimum and the low frequency setting also being at minimum is right.

Doesn't sound right to me, either.

You should be able to take advantage of any setup you desire (source direct, 2.1 stereo, DPL2, or even the dreaded gimmick-DSPs) without the settings being at extremes... as it is, it seems like you're 'close', but have no more wiggle room... that can't be right.

Kinda surprised no one's brought this up before, but... if this is new-ish installation, has any thought been given to trying different placements for the subwoofer?... especially your installer, who should have some semblance of rudimentary room acoustics skills?... if sub placement is inflexible, you may need to adjust the problem out via an outboard EQ... switching playback preferences considerably changes what the sub plays, and can confuse the sound even further if the sub isn't 'playing the room' correctly to begin with.

Or...

There hasn't been any description of your room, and room treatments are oft-neglected solutions to these kinds of problems... search 'acoustic treatments' or 'room treatments' on this forum, there is considerable discussion.

Without being there to hear what you think is incorrect ('cuz your impressions and expectations may be different than those of the few here responding), it's difficult to propose settings... has anything ever sounded 'right' in that room?... such as movies vs music on this system?... or a previous system?

**NonSense** · 01 May 2006, 18:05 Monday

Originally posted by frank1203

Third - no it is not all connected with a $5.00 power bar. in fact, I have two line conditioners - one surge for the TV that is actually connected in the wall to the back of the TV and the other is connected to all the components. They are both made by Furman and were fairly expensive.

When you are comfortable that the configuration issues have been resolved, you may want to experiment with plugging your power amplifier directly into the wall, bypassing the power conditioner. Many people prefer this configuration sonically as the transient power requirements for the amplifier may be less constrained. Not as much of an issue with the other components. (Alot like using a power bar, but not as severe) On the other hand, you may not notice a difference, an easy experiment.

You may also try leaving your equipment on all the time. Solid state devices usually perform their best (sonically) when at their operating temperature. If your listening sessions are not very lengthy, you may not be hearing your equipment at its best. Also an easy experiment. Some devices may take several hours to reach their optimal temperature. Just leave you gear powered for a few days and check if your hear any difference. You may be surprised.

**blues651** · 02 May 2006, 23:07 Tuesday

Frank, what sub are u running? I have studio 100's and in my opinion the 1075 in not near enough amp to run them to their fullest, I started with a 1075 running them, (was not impressed at all),then got a 1080 , ( a lot of improvement) now I have a 1090 and the 100's really sound good! Placement of the 100's is really critical to get them to sound their best in any given room, and I have mine set on LARGE, the sub mainly adds to HT and not much at all to 2 ch. listening. greg

**frank1203** · 03 May 2006, 06:32 Wednesday

Hi Greg, I appreciate your input. To answer your questions...

My paradigm Sub-woofer is the PW-2100. I did not go with the Reference / Servo series formy sub-woofer due to price and put that extra money into the Studio 100s.

You are the first one to tell me that the 1075 was not powerful enough. When I did my research prior to buying the equipment, every dealer I dealt with felt that 1075 would power the Paradigms nicely. Also, not sure you read all my posts in this thread, but I do have the Studio 100's "Bi-amped" so 4 out of the 5 outputs from the 1075 are driving the Studio 100s which I would think is pretty powerful (maybe I'm wrong..)

I think my placement of the speakers is fine, but where we are different is that I have taken te advice from many of the folks here on this site and set all my speakers to small and the Sub-woofer to "yes". This has definitely improved the sound that was once muddy. I don't think I'm there yet as I am still experimenting with cross over settings, but things have improved since we set the speakers to small. I'd welcome any advice you can provide with the Paradigms.. I know there are three different settings on the back of the sub-woofer (one being volume) so maybe thats another concern that they are not set correctly.

**NonSense** · 03 May 2006, 11:43 Wednesday

Frank

Greg may have a point there. The Studio 100's have three LF drivers. Thats a reasonable amount of moving mass to control. Two channels of a 1075 bi-amped is not equivalent to a single channel of a 1080 in this regard. You are still only getting 120W's of control with the 1075. The bi-amp arrangement can be a good one, as long as the amplifier can maintain control over the LF drive units. The damping factor on the multichannel amps are significantly less than the Rotel 2CH versions. Also, the Rotel 2Ch amps tend to be a bit smoother as they are voiced for Stereo playback, vs. HT. Every time I have seen the Studio 100's they have been amped with a heafty Anthem power amp.

Will your dealer let you demo a more powerful 2CH amp in you system?

Also, My preferred 2CH listening arrangement on Full range speakers, is to use the Stereo Bypass, with the mains set to large and the sub's off. I prefer only to use the sub for HT. IMO, a good pair of full range mains should do 2CH without the need for a sub.

This also reinforces gregs opinion on the amplifier. If using the sub (with the small setting), clears some of the muddiness, you may be having LF driver control problems. The low frequecy content of the music is what taxes the power amplier the most. The large driver extensions and inertial control required to produce the low frequencies draw alot of current from the amp. By switching to small speakers, you are redirecting the LF content below the electronic crossover point to the LF sub. This reduces the load on the amplifier (1075) giving better control of the drivers over the remaining frequency range.

**frank1203** · 03 May 2006, 12:24 Wednesday

Bruce, Now I'm getting confused...

We keep jumping back and forth between 2 channel stereo and HT. I guess its my lack of understanding what type of amps there are and what they do... The 1075 was purchased as a "best of both worlds" solution to run my entire HT system - not just 2 channel stereo. From what I'm reading, it sounds like there are amps that will power the 2 channel stereo only. Is the 1075 a 2 channel amp?? The 1080 and 1090 were mentioned in the various posts. How would that work with my system, especially during those times when I only want to watch TV or a DVD in Dolby 5.1?

Since I purchased from various dealers, it is highly unlikely thatbthey would let me demo a 2 channel amp? Even if they did - how would this work? I already have the 1075.

Also, I thought bi-amping was good thing and I truly believed that I was getting better sound because of it. After reading what you posted, maybe I'm not..

It appears that you also advocate the By-pass feature in addition to a few others who posted here. I might just try it - but I'm not optimistic on keeping that setting because I am a lover of "thuds and sizzles" and we are basically taking away any ability to increase HF or LF response. Remember, I'm a child of the 80's and was brought up on equalized music which I can't seem to get past (although I'm trying)..

While I'm playing, I may also try your suggestion of setting the fronts to large and turning off the sub woofer just to see how that sounds.

Just as a quick aside.. I figured I'd better mention this... I also have two old Bose 601 speakers hooked up to a Zone 2 connection in a different room and I am NOT experiencing the muddieness when playing CDs from the same CD player. So, it could be the how the Paradigms in Zone 1 are set; it could be the amp; or it could be that I need to use the by-pass setting for Zone 1 (because Zone 2 is always set at by-pass).

Lots to say today.. Sorry about the long post.............

Frank

**aud19** · 03 May 2006, 12:53 Wednesday

IMO the 1075 bi-amping should be sufficient to power your speakers, it's really no slouch. Would more power be better? Sure, you can never have enough power in audio! :twisted: But I'd be very surpised if the 1075 alone was causing as extreme of a problem as you describe without something being faulty.

As for the damping factor it's really a non-issue as anything above the 1075's ranking is superfluous anyways.

I too would recommend trying your speakers, full range, bypass, no sub for music listening and only use the sub for movies (and multi-channel music with LFE information).

What are you listening to in your evaluations BTW? A LOT of that 80's music in particular that you mentioned is VERY, VERY poorly recorded and will sound all the more horrible on a quality system. Quality gear basically takes all the inferior/bad qualities of the recording and makes them that much easier to hear how crappy they are.

**NonSense** · 03 May 2006, 16:13 Wednesday

Frank My advise is only speculation as my system differs significantly from yours, and I cannot possible know the SQ you are trying to attain. (On the other hand, Greg seems to have had a system like yours at one time or another, so his advise is probably more applicable)

In most applications, 5Ch amps like the 1075 are used to power a 5.1 surround system with the following configuration. One channel for each of the 2x mains, Center and 2x surrounds. Some people feel that multichannel amps have a slightly different sound when compared to 2Ch stereo amplifiers, and prefer this sound for 2CH playback.

Many HT enthousiasts who want to achieve better 2CH playback from their HT systems will intergate a reasonably good quality 2CH amplifier to power the main 2CH's of their HT system to maximise the quality of their 2CH playback. There is no issue with this type of integration. For example, you could use a 2Ch amp for your mains and power the center and surrounds from your 1056. Once adjusted using an SPL meter there would be no issue for surround.

However the center channel is most important for HT, this would sacrifice a little on the HT side as differing amplifiers will be used across the front soundstage. And the amps in the 1056 would be inferior to the 1075. There is usually a sacrifice as many times the best of both worlds is usually out of most peoples price range. Thats why we upgrade.

Bi-amping works for some people, and not for others. Since you are probably not configured for true bi-amping where you use an active crossover and bypass the loudspeaker cross-over network, you are not able to realize the full benefits of true bi-amping. (BTW, what are you using to split the L/R's to the 2 inputs of the 5CH amp? You may want to try single a single amp to each of the mains without the y cable. It wouldn't hurt to test, as you can still bi-wire) You can do a search on this forum for several people who have tried bi-amping RB-1070's (130W's) vs. a single RB-1080 (200W's) similar to your configuration. Almost all have prefered the 1080. 2x130W's is not equivalent to 200w's. Although wattage does not mean better sound, most people did prefer the better amplifier. When I connect my 2CH amp from my dedicated 2CH rig into my HT system (which also uses a lesser 2CH amp for the mains), there is a major difference in speaker control. Not sure if it is due to the massive power reserves, but it achieves speaker control that is unattainable from my HT system. Complex passages seem somehow more resolved.

Anyway.

Curious thing about your zone 2. Are you using the 1056 internal amps redirected or are you using an external amplifier. If you are using the 1056 amps, it would be amazing that it would be outperforming the 1075. You should bring the 601's and connect them to the 1075, just for a listen. As someone suggested, it just may be that you don't like the paradigm sound.

Also regarding the tone controls. I may be mistaken, but I think the problem with the 1056 tone controls vs. older style integrated amplifiers, is that the 1056 does this process in digital domain. If this is the case, you are adding an additional a/d d/a process which will further degrade the sound quality. That is why the bypass is prefered.

BTW, I was in a similar situation as you a few years back. I was looking to replace a good 2Ch system I had for years with a sytem that could do it all. (speaker drivers had worn out, and couldn't replace the drive units) When all was said and done (long story short) the multi-channel HT playback was amazing, but I was never able to achieve the 2CH SQ I had listened to for years and still desired. (probably didn't have a sufficient buget to achieve both at the same time) My final solution was to later assemble a separate 2Ch rig. In the end it was better for me as I can still listening while the HT is being used.

For not having any advice, I seem to have lots to say!

**aud19** · 03 May 2006, 16:58 Wednesday

I just want to add that while I think the 1075 is quite capable in your application, I will always recommend a more powerful single channel of an amp over using two channels of a less powerful amp in a bi-amp configuration. Particularly as Bruce pointed out, when not using a "true" bi-amp configuration.

**Kevin D** · 03 May 2006, 18:35 Wednesday

To explain why bi-amping probably isn't doing what you want a little more:

When you only use two channels of the 1075, you send 120 watts to each speaker. The 120 watts is shared among all the drivers. Those that demand more power (usually always the woofers) will get more of that 120 watts. This leaves less available for the midrange and treble.

So the natural thinking is "The bass output is weak, I need more power". So you use four channels of the amp and send 240 watts to the speaker. Doubling the power should be an improvement right? Well when bi-amping, you're not sending 240 watts to the speaker. You're still sending 120 watts to it. 120 watts to the mid-range and tweeter, 120 watts to the woofers. In this situation the woofers get all of the 120 they need, and the mid-range/tweeter isn't loosing any of the 120 it might need.

Now with you speaker and it's three woofers, 120 watts may not be enough power to control them accurately. It will be better then having to share that 120 with other drivers, but not as good as having to share 200 watts with other drivers.

Kevin D.

**blues651** · 04 May 2006, 12:16 Thursday

I agree that the 1075 is no slouch, it's a great amp , but I think in Frank's setup as far as 2ch. is concerned it's just overextended. Frank I did try the passive bi-amping as you and thought it did help. As you have said Frank,using the tuner or dvd as the source, the system sounded much better than the cd , which leads me to believe the cd player is probablly a weak link in your system. As far as what Bruce has said so far he has hit the nail on the head, I couldn't agree with him more. What's funny is I had 601's before I purchased my paradigms , the difference the 601's run just fine off the power of a 100 watt intergated which the 100's won't. Frank I kept the 1075 and now have it powering my 570 cc (bi-amped) and my surrounds. I read on some of the post you might not like the paradigm sound, surely you must have really liked at the dealer,which I would bet my house didn't have them powered with 120 watts. Frank use the seach feature on this sight for the 100's, I know there have been other discussions on the 100's in the forum. Believe me I once was were you are not too long ago and the 100's can sound alot better than what you are experencing now! Greg

**hifisponge** · 07 May 2006, 01:48 Sunday

Frank -

I've done my best to read through most of the posts here, but please forgive me if my attempt to help you repeats some of what has already been covered.

First, let me say that I am a fellow Paradigm owner and I highly doubt your problem is with amplification. I had no problem driving the Paradigm Signature S8s (the "upscale" version of the 100) in my home with my Denon 5800 AV receiver and they sounded amazing even at ulta high volumes. Clean, detailed, expansive and effortless even when hitting 110dB peaks. All of that with a "measly" AVR. The truth is that most people listen to music at volumes that requires only a few watts of power and you only need a more powerful amp if you want to peel the paint off the walls. :E

Based on your description of the sound quality, I think it is a good idea to focus on the basics of set-up before getting into to tweaks like bi-amping and dedicated 2ch amps. Just to figure out where things are going wrong.

I would start by running the 100s full range, no sub and connected to only one channel of the amp (not bi-amped). You might even want to start by just connecting the speakers to the L / R channels of your AVR (just to rule out a problem with the connection to the amp). If you like the sound, then we need to start looking at sub, crossover, distance, etc settings. If the sound is still muddy when you remove the sub and biamping from the equation, then you need to consider moving the speakers out from the walls a bit until the sound clears up.

Try these things first and let me know how things sound and well go from there.

Good luck.

- Tim

PS I'll be away on business until the 5/13/06. I'll check back then.

**gianni** · 07 May 2006, 14:04 Sunday

frank1203,

I'm sorry to hear it's taking so long to work things out with what should be a great sounding system.

Sometimes experiences like this make you think you should of saved some money and hassle and just gotten the AM radio in the first place.

CDs Sound Like an AM Radio on my 1056!

CDs Sound Like an AM Radio on my 1056!

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