New Rotel / B&W system

**aud19** · 23 February 2004, 14:26 Monday

Welcome to HTGuide

Looks like that research paid off...nice gear! :P

You may want to run your 804's full range for music but you'll likely get the best results (especially with the 1098's extensive bass management options) running them small with a crossover of say 60Hz for movies. My best advice is to try all your options and see what sounds best to you in your room. Just remember to let all your gear break in for a good couple weeks before really cranking it, doing any critical listeing or commiting to a final bass management configuration. Other than that most of your speakers will likley be run as small with varying crossover frequencies based on their invididual capabilities. Or you can go the THX route and set everything to small and 80Hz. I know the feeling of waiting for gear to power speakers...I had all my Energy's sitting for months waiting for my Rotel gear :?

Jason

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**Andrew Pratt** · 23 February 2004, 18:17 Monday

Wow when you start you start big:T Anyway very nice gear and you're going to have a lot of fun with your new gear.

Which speakers should be set to LARGE, only the front speakers? or the center and surround as well?

Which cross-over frequency should I set?

Actually I'd suggest you set them all to small with a 60 or 80 hz cross over point. Your mains can go pretty low but for movies you want the subwoofer to take over that low freq. material. When you want to listen to music though I'd use the Bypass function (instead of stereo) to bypass the crossover which will mean your mains will get the full range signal from the source and your subwoofer will be off. That way if you do want to listen to music with the sub on you simply need to press the stereo button to re-engage the cross over to the subwoofer.

We'll be hear waiting for your questions when you're ready.

**Twincam** · 24 February 2004, 02:22 Tuesday

Thanks for your answers.

Wow when you start you start big

Yeah, I been waiting for this so (=too) long, and I thought, what the h--l, you only live once...

If I use the bypass function when I listening to music, I'll guess this means I must have analog cables from the DVD player to the RSP!? My dealer mentioned that he thought it's better do use the analog-digital convertion in the RSP rather than in the DVD player.

**Aussie Geoff** · 24 February 2004, 10:03 Tuesday

TwinCam,

Impressive system - I'm jealous of those B&Ws.

Re the DVD connection - from experience with two different Sony DVDs they don't make great CD players in the analog domain (only the very best DVD players are even acceptable for good CDs in my view). But you can get good results with a quality digital cable into the RSP-1098. I've tried Coax and Fibre from my Sony into the RSP-1098 and they sound very different. I like the "warmer" sound of the Coax connection but you should try both.

If you do a lot of CD listening you will eventually want to upgrade either to a separate dedicated CD player (like the Rotel RCD-1072 or a good Arcam etc) OR get a top line DVD, DVD-A SACD player. Either way you will then benefit from good analogue cable for stereo and (if you go the DVD-A and SACD route) multi-channel audio.

One day (once your bank balance has recovered) you may want to enjoy the further delights of 7 channel (which I just die for), in which case a Rotel RB-1080 will really make your B&W 800 series pump.

You may also want to contact DrBoom (on this forum) whose been experimenting with different speaker cables and interconnects on a similar set-up. The B&W 800s and RMB-1075 really benefit from a quality connection.

Enjoy

Geoff Costello

**Twincam** · 25 February 2004, 02:41 Wednesday

Yes, I am thinking of buying a Rotel DVD/DVD-A/SACD player onece (if?) it will be available...and when my bank account has recovered...(I'm starting to get bored eating canned beans now

)

I am still a bit puzzled if I need analog cables from the DVD cables, if I use the bypass function? I didn't purchased any together with the system, only a (quality) caox cable for the connection between DVD and RSP.
And if I set all speakers to SMALL, shouldn't I then use the advanced setup and set front speakers to LARGE in stereo mode (and subwoofer off in that mode)?

I also have a question about the subwoofer setup. In this forum there are recommendations to calibrate ti 85db, while I can't see that in the manual!? What's the reasons for that ?

Once again, thanks for your comments (and patience).

Cheers,

TC

**Blazar** · 25 February 2004, 03:09 Wednesday

FORGET the rotel dvd player... it's not likely to hold a candle in video performance to companies that are far more experienced in making quality players.

If you want top quality dvd performance, the high end denon gear has very little competition in video performance. Plus you get dvd-a and sacd capability to boot, although I'm not sure if the Denon has 5 channel mode bass management which is essential in a dvd-a or sacd player used with the rotel 1098.

**Aussie Geoff** · 25 February 2004, 07:40 Wednesday

Twincam,

Yes, I am thinking of buying a Rotel DVD/DVD-A/SACD player once (if?) it will be available...and when my bank account has recovered

You may want to post a query in the Home Theater forum of this site - there are lots of people with views / experierence

I am still a bit puzzled if I need analog cables from the DVD cables, if I use the bypass function? I didn't purchased any together with the system, only a (quality) caox cable for the connection between DVD and RSP.

You only need the coax given the quality of the analogue sound on your DVD. When you get a much better DVD-A or CD player then get analog. With a coax only conneciton you can stil use the RSP-1098's D/A converters but bypass ALL other processing for CDs etc and get very good results.

I set all speakers to SMALL, shouldn't I then use the advanced setup and set front speakers to LARGE in stereo mode (and subwoofer off in that mode)?

Absolutely this is the normal strategy with large floor standing speakers like the Nautilus 804's. However this is normally done to avoid the RSP-1098 having to convert the analogue signal into digital to do the bass processing for your subwoofer and then reconverting them back to analogue again. Now unless you do bother with the Analogue cables on your existing Sony DVD (and I have one and wouldn't personally do this) you will already be starting with a digital signal - so in this case the quality issue through digitising the analogue signal isn't there. You have the choice based on personal preference of leaving the front speakers SMALL for stereo and setting a crossover of (say) 40Hz OR having them LARGE and not using the SUB. Either way there will be no loss of signal quality - it comes down to what you prefer. For me - I'd definitely try the sub - since a great sub like the one you have can add a real extra dimension to music with the extra octave of bass.

I also have a question about the subwoofer setup. In this forum there are recommendations to calibrate ti 85db, while I can't see that in the manual!? What's the reasons for that?

Very good question. Most of us have found that if we calibrate the RSP-1098 using its internal test tones, we need to do this with the speakers at 75 dB and the sub at 85 dB for the same volume level. This then gives a level speaker to sub playback volume on DVD test disks such as the AIVA etc (ie 75 db speaker tones match a 75 dB sub tone). It is believed that this relates to the 10 dB higher headroom / signal level on the sub allowed in DTS and DD spec. Of course if you calibrate with a test DVD only then this isn't necessary - follow the instructions that come with it. One day we hope Rotel will correct this confusion with a firmware update. It may be that you don’t need this – let is know if you find you don’t – so far every RSP-1098 owner whose posted on the topic seems to.

I hope this helps and I'm sure some fellow RSP-1098 owners will add to this based on their experiences.

Geoff

**triDave** · 25 February 2004, 11:58 Wednesday

FORGET the rotel dvd player... it's not likely to hold a candle in video performance to companies that are far more experienced in making quality players.

Cant agree more! I have the RDV-1060, it sounds good. But the unit itselfs sounds to much! There are two sounds, the drive is really loud, even when doing nothing like pause. But it doesn't stop there my unit also has a really quite sound when doing absolutly nothing (when everything is disconnected to the unit).

So don't buy the RDV-1060, that's my opinion, aslong as you don't have the unit really fare away from you in your listening room.

I should also add to the topic, I think you would benefit alot to invest rb-1080 for your fronts! B&W 804 likes stong amps... I tested b&w 703 with the my rb-1075 and also a loaned 1080, quite a difference!

Dave

**Azeke** · 25 February 2004, 14:46 Wednesday

I definitely agree, the RB-1080/RB-1090 should be added to drive your fronts, therefore dedicating 200w/channel or 380w/channel to power those 804's, instead of 125w/channel that the 1075 provides (save that for rear and center duties, or 7.1 if you feel so inclined). I made the jump to the RB-1080 and the sonic improvement was indeed significant, providing greater dynamics/control in stereo and HT. Take it for a test drive, with all the equipment you just purchased your dealer should be happy to provide you a loaner amp.

If you decide to jump to a high current two channel amp, just ensure you have enough rack space for heat dissipation.

Welcome to the World of HT, where your ears will tell the truth.

Good Luck,

Azeke

**Twincam** · 25 February 2004, 15:45 Wednesday

Guys, thanks for your comments.

I definitely agree, the RB-1080/RB-1090 should be added to drive your fronts, therefore dedicating 200w/channel or 380w/channel to power those 804's, instead of 125w/channel that the 1075 provides

Aarghh..the electronics hasn't arrive yet and I must already upgrade.. 8O
Honestly, the thought crossed my mind. I was initially thinking of the RMB-1095 instead of an 1075, but then I read about some problems with it on this forum, and choose to start with the 1075, with the possibility then to add an 1080 later on. 1075+1080 costs more or less the same as a 1095. I am already my dealers favourite customer, and I think he is even happier than I am (right Markus?

), so I think that there wouldn't be a problem to borrow a 1080. But I think the 1075 will be more than fine for me initially. Btw, where to you get the 380W from? The difference between the 1075 and 1080 is 75 W per channel i 8ohm, right.
7.1? why not, but it won't pass the WAF test. You guys wouldn't believe what I have..sacrified..to get this

Cheers,

TC

**Azeke** · 25 February 2004, 16:51 Wednesday

TC,

The 380w/channel is for the RB-1090 which is the next level up, I personally believe, you will be fine if you just purchase the RB-1080 and run the RMB-1075 for the other channels, and you save money to boot.

BTW, my wife still haunts me about my upgrades, so just get use to it. Get the 1080 and bring it in at the same time with the rest of your gear, she'll never know (make sure it's all the same color), but don't let us influence you. You have to live with her :LOL: .

Regards,

Azeke

**Twincam** · 25 February 2004, 17:29 Wednesday

TriDave

We had this discussion about 1075 and 1080 in the swedish hi-fi forum, remember!? How did you like the 703s btw?

mvh

TC

**apotts** · 25 February 2004, 19:49 Wednesday

From my experience, I'll just confirm what A Geoff says...

If you want decent stereo, get a DVD player that is known to be good in that department. The Arcam DV88+ is one of those. Most DVD players are about the same as a £50 CD player - not good at all!

Use the analogue connections in bypass mode for stereo, but make sure you use good quality analogue cables for both DVD - 1098 and 1098 - amp. Chord Chorus are excellent. Have the sub off and the main speakers set as large for stereo. Or use the 6.1 analogue input and have the sub set to add a little bit of low additive bass.

On my setup the analogue route sounds MUCH better than using the 1098 DACs, but I can't use it for high volumes because my speakers (M&K K17) are not meant to recieve full range signals. So I'm stuck with the digital route and the inferior 1098 DACs.

I would spend more on the low level interconnects than the speaker cable - they make a greater difference.

Wait for a few weeks for it all to run in. Leave it on quietly while you're at work! The treble will relax and smooth out a bit, and the mid range will come up and become more punchy.

Should be a great system! Enjoy!

Andrew

**Twincam** · 26 February 2004, 02:18 Thursday

Thanks Andrew.
I have ordered StraightWire Symphony II cables for the interconnects between the RSP and the RMB, as well as between the TV and RSP. I'll will get another pair for the analog connection between the DVD and the RSP then, even though my DVD player might not be the best one for music. I'have read in some reviews of the RSP-1098, that for music listening they strongly recommended to use the analog bypass-mode. But I'll assume that they most likely used a much better DVD/CD player then mine then...

Cheers

TC

**triDave** · 26 February 2004, 04:19 Thursday

I really liked the B&W 703's! Especially teamed up with Rotel. My RMB-1075 was enough for my small listningroom (20m2) and my listningvolumes.

But the swedish HifiKlubben really sucks when it gets to discounts... Therefore I settled down for Monitor Audio Gold Ref 20. 18% of listprice. The funny thing the dealer sent me Monitor Audio Gold Ref 60 instead, I don't know why, but I didn't complain

Although MA GR 60 are a little boomy in my room, while MA GR 20 was perfect, but since they will have a better aftermarket price I sticked to them.

Dave

**Aussie Geoff** · 26 February 2004, 08:27 Thursday

TwinCam,

Nice cables. Seriously with your Sony DVD player they spend about 2 cents on the D/A converter in the unit because nearly everyone uses the digital link into the processor to play DVDs etc. Now that you have ordered the cables you should listen and compare for yourself, but I'll bet money that for your DVD you will prefer to send the digital signal to the RSP-1098 and use it's D/A converters even for pure stereo. Have a look here at fellow member Andrew Pratt’s experiences. Essentially for his system the RSP-1098’s D/As were sufficiently good make the improvement from a specialised Musical Fidelity up sampling DAC not worthwhile. Equally I and another few members have found that for a really good CD player, analogue is hard to beat.

However the cables you have bought will be a good investment for when you get either a good CD player (where the Analogue path from the RSP-1098 us really useful) OR a great DVD player (which usually has an OK analogue output)

A tip for the future - comparing the Analogue and digital for the same device on the RSP-1098 is tricky - you can set either analogue or a nominated digital input as the default, but changing involves cycling through all the inputs (3 optical, 5 coax and the analogue). So (based on a tip I got on this forum) I suggest you plug the analogue cables for the DVD into a spare device (e.g. the multi-input) and leave the digital cable in for the DVD that way you can switch between them with one remote control button by changing devices (you don’t need a picture for CDs anyway).

Geoff

New Rotel / B&W system

New Rotel / B&W system

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