RB-1070 Amp

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  • drsiebling
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2006
    • 140

    RB-1070 Amp

    Hello everyone!

    I've been reading a lot of comments on the site regarding the Rotel RB-1070 amp. It seems that many of you feel that this is an underpowered amp. I am considering one to pair with a RSX-1056 to drive my current B&W DM602s3 front speakers. I do plan on upgrading to the B&W 805s in the near future. So, my question is: will this amp provide me with too little power for the 805 or the 602?

    Thanks!
  • BWzes03
    Member
    • Oct 2005
    • 96

    #2
    I would think that the 1070 would be just fine. However, since you plan to upgrade to the 805s I would say, save a bit more money and get the RB-1080.
    The 1080 is much more in control and more up to driving the 805s than the 1070 is.
    Of course, the 602s will benefit from the 1080 too.

    You should listen to both amps on both types of speakers to get an idea where the benefits of the 1080 really lie...

    Comment

    • drsiebling
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2006
      • 140

      #3
      I was under the impression that the 805 and the 602 had max power handling at roughly 125W. Isn't the 1080 a 200W amp? I certainly don't want to overdrive the speakers... perhaps I'm just being too cautious.

      Comment

      • wkhanna
        Grumpy Old Super Moderator Emeritus
        • Jan 2006
        • 5673

        #4
        I made this comment a while back and nobody has siad that I have made incorrect assumptions, (I am no expert by any means) so I will offer this again:

        I’ve heard it described this way: think of the amp as a water faucet, and the signal going from it to your speakers as the water coming out of that faucet. The maximum amount of water you can get is largely determined by the available water pressure in the system and the diameter of the pipes. This would be equivalent to your amps power rating. When you turn the faucet on just a little, you get a trickle of water, or low volume from your speaker. Open the faucet some more and the water runs in a fairly even and solid stream, hence your speakers are getting a nice steady ‘stream’ of power and everything starts sounding pretty good. Now, crack the faucet wide open. The steady stream of water is gone and instead, it is spraying out randomly all over the place at high velocity and is very chaotic in its dynamic nature. This is similar to running your amp at or near its limit, and the distorted signal, while sounding loud, is also choked full of distortion. Your speakers don’t like all this distortion and will let you know by either burning out the coil in the tweeter or separating the cone of the woofer from its outer edge.

        In other words, your ears will/should be hurting long before your speakers are damaged, assuming your in the same room with them.
        _


        Bill

        Practicing Curmudgeon & Audio Snob
        ....just an "ON" switch, Please!

        FinleyAudio

        Comment

        • drsiebling
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2006
          • 140

          #5
          I figured that was probably the case, but it never hurts to be sure!

          Comment

          • b&w fan
            Member
            • Feb 2006
            • 45

            #6
            Originally posted by wkhanna
            I made this comment a while back and nobody has siad that I have made incorrect assumptions, (I am no expert by any means) so I will offer this again:

            I’ve heard it described this way: think of the amp as a water faucet, and the signal going from it to your speakers as the water coming out of that faucet. The maximum amount of water you can get is largely determined by the available water pressure in the system and the diameter of the pipes. This would be equivalent to your amps power rating. When you turn the faucet on just a little, you get a trickle of water, or low volume from your speaker. Open the faucet some more and the water runs in a fairly even and solid stream, hence your speakers are getting a nice steady ‘stream’ of power and everything starts sounding pretty good. Now, crack the faucet wide open. The steady stream of water is gone and instead, it is spraying out randomly all over the place at high velocity and is very chaotic in its dynamic nature. This is similar to running your amp at or near its limit, and the distorted signal, while sounding loud, is also choked full of distortion. Your speakers don’t like all this distortion and will let you know by either burning out the coil in the tweeter or separating the cone of the woofer from its outer edge.

            In other words, your ears will/should be hurting long before your speakers are damaged, assuming your in the same room with them.
            nice explanation, very intuitive ...
            thanks

            Comment

            • Clepto
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2006
              • 292

              #7
              Yeah, you're risking your equipment more by UNDERpowering than OVERpowering.

              Though, if you were driving say, 1000Wpc on speakers rated at 50Wpc, then you might blow them instantly (;

              Comment

              • Kevin D
                Ultra Senior Member
                • Oct 2002
                • 4601

                #8
                I know 400 watts on a 50w speaker takes quite a while to blow.. Don't ask.

                Kevin D.

                Comment

                • wkhanna
                  Grumpy Old Super Moderator Emeritus
                  • Jan 2006
                  • 5673

                  #9
                  Careful Kevin, we might have to start a new specialty club!!!
                  _


                  Bill

                  Practicing Curmudgeon & Audio Snob
                  ....just an "ON" switch, Please!

                  FinleyAudio

                  Comment

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