Is this normal, RSP-1098 "Clicking"? and Break in period.

[eulogytool]

I broke down and and bought the 1098 after months of debating and I am very happy.

First question is: What is the normal break in period for a Pre/Amp to reach it's full dynamic potential?

Second question: I have my gear loaded onto one circuit and when my refrigerator cycles on the 1098 seems to "lose" the signal for a second and it makes a clicking sound when it locks back in, like when I first turn it on. Do you think thats bad for it? It also makes the clicking sound whenever I change sound sources (like from 2channel to DD or to DTS for instance) Are these clicking sounds normal?

Thanks!!

[Kevin D]

I have my gear loaded onto one circuit and when my refrigerator cycles on the 1098 seems to "lose" the signal for a second and it makes a clicking sound when it locks back in, like when I first turn it on. Do you think thats bad for it?

It's pretty funny that you describe having your gear 'loaded' onto one circuit, and then wonder if it's bad..

Seems that your nominal voltage is dropping when the compressor kicks on. Maybe the fridge is on the same circuit as the system, or maybe you have just a serious low voltage problem. Either way having the voltage drop enough that certain parts of the 1098 quit working for a second is definately not good for it. Could be your system is all ready taxing the circuit it's on dropping the voltage down and the fridge kicks it over the edge.

About time to run a good 20amp circuit for at least your amps to spread the wealth a bit. In the mean time, go get a cheap battery backup to keep the voltage level constant..

Second part, the clicking you hear, is it from the preamp or speakers? Rotel uses high quality mechanical relays in the preamp and that clicking is normal.

Good luck, glad to see someone from around my area on the forum!

Kevin D.

[apotts]

Firstly, search for my thread "1098 popping".

Secondly, whenever the 1098 changes modes (decoding, or input) it clicks a relay, and this is normal.

I borrowed a 1098 from my dealer and it was pretty poor - it picked up mains borne RFI from any noisy device in my house. These included fridge motors and central heating pumps. It was not a voltage or load problem, since if I put a 2kW non RFI load on the same circuit, it didn't do it.

The 1098 is meant to have a mains filter built in that supresses this interference, but it doesn't work so well. I swapped that 1098 for a new one from Rotel, and it's now much better. Only occasionaly does the RFI cause a "click" in the speakers, and it never causes the signal to drop out (which then causes your relays to click).

This interference only has a limited range as it travels down your mains. So some people will suggest placing audio gear on a different ring, since this will be "further away" from the source. This is OK, and might work, if you can do it. My old one picked up interference from next door, so I reckon it wouldn't have worked in my case, even if I could relocate it.

You could add another (in addition to the one in the 1098) mains filter, but here a good one costs USD800.

Or you could do what I did and get a replacement!

One caveat, some sources can cause the relays to click, eg a poor DVD player with incorrect muting when hopping tracks, or (in my case) a Sat receiver that cuts the digital signal when skipping tracks on recorded material.

I'd suggest giving Rotel a call and discussing the problem with them. It shouldn't pick up this interference, no other processor I have had has ever done this, including some very cheap ones. It's worth it when you get a good one!

Break in is reportedly 2-4 weeks.

[eulogytool]

Thanks for the reply guys. That helps me alot.

Kevin, what do you mean a battery back up? Are you talking about a UPS?

Would something like the Exactpower EP15A or Monster's AVS2000 work?

Thanks again!!

[aud19]

I own 2 APC Line-R (1200VA) Power conditioners that work like a charm.

http://www.apcc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=67

Jason




Need a new display? Questions about new display technologies? Visit RPTVs, plasmas, and other monitors @ HTguide

[Kevin D]

Yeah, a UPS, like Jason posted..

Kevin D.

[eulogytool]

Wow, great info!! Cheap AND effective

I already bought a Monster HTS-5100 power conditioner (I haven't hooked it up yet) but I don't believe it regulates voltage. So how should I use that UPS/voltage regulator with it? Do I plug the 5100 in the wall and then the UPS into 5100 or vice versa? I assume the UPS would limit the current on anything big, so I am planning on buying a Ultimate Outlet for my amp.

[Kevin D]

Hmm.. Good question. If it is an under-voltage problem then the real solution is fix that. I would try running the UPS into the wall and then the 5100 conditioner into it. That way you should have a more stable voltage for everything.

If the UPS goes into the battery mode a lot(meaning the voltage drops to the point it thinks it needs to kick on the battery), I would just move it to the 1098 only and get the problem fixed. You could still run everything off of it, but it would get annoying as most UPS' give a long BEEP when it goes into bettery mode.

Good luck,

Kevin D.

[apotts]

Don't know what's happened, but mine is now doing this. If the sub switches off, when it comes back on it makes a loud click in the speakers and the 1098 momentarily loses the signal from the DVD, causing the relays to click in and out.

Great proc, but picks up mains RFI like nothing on earth!

[apotts]

RIGHT!!!!

This is now annoying me, so I've just gone and done some proper investigation. Unplug everything and work up from amp/proc/dvd to see if I can find the item that causes the fault..... AND I HAVE!

Situation: Just 4 items connected and switched on... 1098, 1075, sub and Arcam DV88+ DVD player.

Sub on... Click, clunk.

Now, just turn the 1075 off, at the front panel. Leave everything else. Problem vanishes!

Turn amp on, problem reappears.

Amp in connected to 1098 by VDH C5's.
Link

Any electrical geniuses shed any light?

[Kevin D]

Apotts,

If you are suffering from a low-votage problem also, it makes since that when the 1075 is off the sub doesn't drain enough power to affect the 1098. Add the 1075 pulling more voltage and you sub pushes it over the edge.

Kevin D.

[apotts]

I don't think it is voltage related. I have tested with and without a 2kW heater on the same circuit, and it made no difference. Switching the heater on and off with the amp off did not upset the 1098. Switching the heater on and off with the amp on, did upset the 1098. The heater draws more than 5 times the current of the amp, so will generate 5 times the voltage drop. Also, remember that the 1098 clicks when you turn stuff off, and this is a voltage increase!

In the UK we have twice the voltage to the US, so individual items only draw half the current... We don't really suffer voltage drop problems.

To me this is an odd "floating voltage" problem between 2 double insulated (ie not earthed) appliances. The clicks are RFI, hence the sensitivity to RFI generators, such as fridge motors and central heating pumps. If I get a cheap light switch and hold it between poles (so it sparks internally and generated loads of RFI) I get loads of noise out of my speakers - do this with a Denon 3803 and you get none. A 40 watt light will cause no voltage drop, either on a 230v system or a 110v system. Nor will a fridge light (5w?) - this also causes trouble (probably because the switch leverage makes for a slow on or slow off on the contacts.

Andrew