My Halo and MXEditor setup files to help you out

[Chris D]

We'll see if anybody gets any use out of this. I've attached several files in zip format for our club members here. Just click on the attached files at the end of the post if you'd like any of them. I figured that there might be someone that could find a file or two useful, perhaps to either set up their own equipment, or maybe spark an idea about how to improve your configuration. If nothing else, maybe start a conversation about setup techniques.

You'll see that I have had some fun with the files over the years, slowly testing and improving various configurations to find out what works best, and what my personal taste is. You may also see what I firmly believe that the connection to a computer is ESSENTIAL for Parasound processor and remote setup.


"Halo Default"

Use this is you need to reset your Halo C1 or C2 to original settings if you've messed it up through tinkering of the settings. I downloaded this one straight from my C1 when I got it before making any changes.


"Chris v12 with PS3"

This is the latest iteration of my Halo C1 setup. Things to point out with my setup:

- I made a customized message that's displayed on my C1 screen every time I turn it on or off, welcoming guests to my theater or inviting them to come again. This is just one more item that wows guests, putting extra flair on the experience.
- I use DPLIIx for all my sources. (IIx Movies for video, IIx Music for audio-only) All my settings are set for an enveloping soundfield that wraps around a listener in 7.1, giving fantastic imaging.
- My speaker setup is 7.1 Klipsch speakers, using dual SVS subwoofers. You'll note that ALL speakers are set to "small", which I highly recommend for all users. Because Klipsch speakers are so effecient, you'll also see that all levels are negative values to decrease the level output, especially my mains. (-12db!!)
- All levels and distances were initially set with the autocalibration feature, which actually works great, then confirmed with an SPL meter. I then tweaked a couple settings to match them up, such as when one main came up .5 feet further than the other, even though they're equidistant from my primary listening location.
- I currently do not use programmable channels 9 or 10. I tried setting up my Clark Synthesis tactile transducers using these, in order to get full range output, using the Clarks' abilities for tactile frequencies other than just bass. However, I found that I kept lowering and lowering the filter frequency, until I got it down to the same point as the dedicated tactile transducer output level. So, now I power all of my transducers off of the dedicated transducer output, which I'm really happy with, and it's freed up 9 and 10 for me to use for other things like ceiling or effect speakers, which I still haven't decided about.
- My 2nd subwoofer is output from the C1's duplicate subwoofer output.
- I have every input designated except one audio input. (I like having multiple source choices) Using the Halo Setup program, naming sources is a snap. I have the first 5 video sources set up in order of preference and to correspond with the inputs I use on my Zhd HDMI switcher.
- I currently don't use any balanced jacks.
- My triggers are set to power on/off my Halo amps at the same time I power my C1 processor.
- I don't use audio presets, I haven't taken the time to figure out how individual inputs may vary from each other. One general setting works for me.


"D3 Device"

If you have a Halo D3 player, it's not actually contained in the IR database, but comes with the default setup of the latest Parasound MXEditor program. This file is the D3 info saved as a device file that can be uploaded into any MXEditor setup.


"Theater MX700 v29"

This is the latest iteration of my MX-700 setup for my theater. Being the 29th version, you can tell that I've definitely done some tinkering over the years.

- My theater equipment that I have the remote set up to control:

• Parasound C1/C2

• Panasonic PT-AE700 front projector

• Samsung satellite receiver

• Denon DVD-3910 player

• Dell laptop, setup as an HTPC

• Playstation 3

• JVC S-VHS VCR

• Lutron Grafik Eye lighting controller

• Kenwood 2-channel reciever used to power 2nd zone audio

• Kenwood CD player

• Kenwood cassette player

• Kenwood tuner

• Parasound Zhd HDMI switcher

• Remote baby monitor in kid's room

• Xantech automated curtain motor

- Perhaps the biggest thing to point out is how I have each device set up to switch or not. Often, I'll control one device while watching or listening to another. (i.e. cue up a DVD while watching a satellite TV show) So I'd enabled a macro for each LCD device button. The macro uses a 0.3 second delay before switching the C1 source to that device. That way, if I want to switch what source is selected on my C1, I just press and hold the device button for half a second, and it switches. BUT, if I want to just control the device without switching, I momentarily press the device button without holding it down, and the MX-700 changes to control that device, and the C1 does not switch sources. Great versatility.
- I use the "punch through" feature repeatedly, primarily to control C1 volume and mute regardless of which device I'm controlling at the time. However, I've found through practice that sometimes if I do something like turn off the lights with the remote, I then try to pause my DVD or something, to find I had forgotten and left it in the light device control. So in general, unless the buttons are already assigned for other features, for each device I've punched through the channel controls to my satellite TV receiver, play/pause/other buttons to my DVD player, and the "status" button to the C1, so I can at anytime brings up the C1 status OSD on the C1 LCD screen.
- As with the latest Halo DPLIIx update, I've also mapped an individual device as "Zone", which discretely controls the zone function of the C1. It's like having a 2nd processor inside the C1, independently controlled.
- I have my 7.1 analog inputs set up as an additional device on the remote. The macro is set to toggle the 7.1 inputs on, and then the device controls it brings up are set to control my DVD player, duplicating the DVD control device. I did this because my 7.1 inputs are used for SACD and DVD-A from my universal DVD player.
- My Zhd HDMI switcher is connected to my C1 via RS-232, and switches automatically when the C1 does. However, I decided to set it up as a device as well. This way, since HDMI doesn't actually go through the C1, I can switch the HDMI source if I want without switching the C1 as well. So, for example, if I'm watching a DVD movie, I can keep it playing whiel I switch the Zhd to take a quick visual peek at a sports score on satellite TV.
- I created one more device I called "Show". When I put the remote in this mode, the LCD screen buttons each are mapped to a macro. One starts an intro, starting a theater demo for theater guests that dims the lights, plays a custom DVD, opens the curtains, etc. Others transition from the intro to the feature movie, or start an intermission sequence, etc. Each one has a lighting setting that slowly blends in, moving the theater guest from one stage of the experience to another.


"Bedroom MX700 v4"

- I use a 2nd Parasound MX-700 remote control for my master bedroom setup, so the controls are consistent with the theater remote. This file is similarly set up as my theater remote, but for my bedroom components:

• Philips 42FTR9964 plasma TV and control unit

• Yamaha RX-V2095 surround receiver

• Satellite receiver

• Bravo D1 DVD player (soon to be replaced)

• Lutron IR remote light control

[Chris D]

Hmmmm... several views, but no feedback on this one. Useful to anybody?

[blownrx7]

Like the device selection option

Chris,
Thanks for the posting!
I will be using your device selection idea. Now I don't have to cover up the ir emitters to just select the device before switching.

- Perhaps the biggest thing to point out is how I have each device set up to switch or not. Often, I'll control one device while watching or listening to another. (i.e. cue up a DVD while watching a satellite TV show) So I'd enabled a macro for each LCD device button. The macro uses a 0.3 second delay before switching the C1 source to that device. That way, if I want to switch what source is selected on my C1, I just press and hold the device button for half a second, and it switches. BUT, if I want to just control the device without switching, I momentarily press the device button without holding it down, and the MX-700 changes to control that device, and the C1 does not switch sources. Great versatility.

I admit I haven't explored more than 10% of the versatility of the MX-700. This is a quick addition that I will utilize immediately.
THANKS! ;x(

[Chris D]

Yes, reading info like the manual and quick guide for the MX-700 reveals lots of little tricks for the unit. I've incorporated lots of them like the workaround for units that have a general "power" button instead of discrete on and off buttons. I've set up different macros and a ghost device or two.

[rocasi]

Chris:

Why do you have your speakers set to small? I am guessing it has something to do with the crossover frequencies to the sub, but am not sure. I have Khorn mains, La Scala center and 4 Cornwalls for effects, plus a single SVS sub.

[Chris D]

Klipshorns? Yowzas. Cool... However, EVEN with the Khorns, you may want to consider setting your speakers to small as well. I don't remember the frequency rating of those various models offhand, but unless they can go all the way down to 20Hz ***AND*** do it with a nearly flat response curve, your subwoofer will be able to do a better job of reproducing the bass frequencies than your speakers. Therefore, I recommend to 99.99999% of home theater users out there that they use the "small" setting as well on ALL their speakers.

Let the object play your bass freqs that was DESIGNED to play the bass freqs--the subwoofer.

We've got a couple of threads here in the club where we've really got into this issue in depth and talked about reasons.

[rocasi]

I will have to look into this a little before I go over to small on the speakers. I am fairly sure that the "small" seeting sends certain frequencies over to the sub instead of the speakers.

[rocasi]

On page 26 of the C2 manual it indicates that the sub will receive any frequencies lower than the value you set in the "size setup" menu. So, this does give some flexibility in what frequencies make it to the sub. I will have to play with the settings and see which is more appropriate. I will also look for the threads you mentioned.

[rocasi]

Chris:

One important question. If I set all my speakers to small, what happens when I am just listening to a stereo cd in stereo mode? Does the signal get processed and anything below XhZ get sent to the sub? I can do that now with Ebass, but generally don't, since I get too much bass generally. But, with speakers set to small, I don't want freq's sent to the sub that my Khorns can produce. Thanks.

Edit: I just answered my own question. I made the suggested changes and played around with the system a bit. Yes, if all speakers set to small, and you play stereo, it does process the low freq's per your setting and sends them to the sub. If mains are set as large, then no freq's are sent to the sub in stereo. I know my Khorns start to roll off below 50Hz and am going to set the speakers to small per your suggestion. Fortunately, the SVS compliments my Klipsch rather well. Now I need to get another sub...this is a big room after all. I will live with the new settings for a while and see if I find it to be better with movies etc.

[Chris D]

Cool... yes, I use dual SVS subs with my current all-Klipsch setup, and it works well. I do recommend "small' for all your speakers. That's what I use, even though I have nice full-size Legend speakers.

[Chris D]

Bump, in case this could be useful for somebody.

[LuckyLuke]

Uhm how do i import the .sfg file in the editor??

[Chris D]

Huh... isn't there an import function under one of the tabs in the program?

[LuckyLuke]

Ah i see now.. the file is for de Halo setup prog. not the MXeditor , my bad
Gonna try the Theater MX700 v29.zip tonight for the PS3
I was looking for that!

[Chris D]

Ah, well, remember that the PS3 is controlled via Bluetooth, not IR. There are products recently released for IR control of the PS3, but I don't have any, unfortunately, and don't have PS3 IR control.

[LuckyLuke]

Doh!