Do you spike?

[RebelMan]

I haven't spiked my B&W's yet but I have every intension too. The primary reason having to do with the added control I will have adjusting the axial position of the drivers relative to my seated position. The coupling effects are secondary but I am sure are no less beneficial. Some recent discussions surrounding spikes got me curious just how many people spike their B&W's and why or why not?

[scanido]

I put yes for now as I plan to eventually spike my 803's. I'm eying the Soundcare Superspikes, but am holding off as they look kind of off. If they make any sort of difference i'll consider.

Anyone else using other brands? I haven't seen too many options out there for a decent price.

[beden1]

I just received the Soundcare Superspikes (read about them here) and put them on my new 803Ds. I also bought the stick on sets to put on large speakers I have in another setup that don't have the screw-ins. I really like them. They are easily adjustable, and the 803Ds are now extremely stable. I just put in another order for my 703s that currently have the B&W supplied rubber screw in feet, but are not stable, no matter how I try to adjust the feet.

I can't say if I hear any difference in the sound on the 803Ds as I never heard them without. But, I did notice a difference on my ADS 910 Reference Monitors that I've had since the 1970s. They are now more focused. They originally came with stands which I lost in a move that raised them 6 1/2" off the ground. Since hearing this difference, I'm now having stands built for them to raise them back up to the original specs.

As far as looks "a bit off" . . . I think they look good, and better than the spikes. But, that's only my opinion.

[Blindamood]

I spike all of my speakers (and stands) mainly because they are all sitting on carpet. I only use the factory spikes. This is really the only way to stabilize the speakers to a solid foundation, I believe, when they're sitting on carpet.

[shades]

I spike i guess, if you count the spikes under my Sound Anchors. But spiking alone i have tried but found no positive effect with them on my 804S.

[joetama]

I spike just for the simple reason of better axis and speaker stability adjustments...

[Lectoid]

I have hardwood laminate floors, what is recommended for that? I hate having them on the bare floor, every time I move them a little, I feel like fingernails on the chalk board. I hate thinking I am scratching the bottom of the speaker, no matter if you never see it.

[joetama]

I have hardwood laminate floors, what is recommended for that? I hate having them on the bare floor, every time I move them a little, I feel like fingernails on the chalk board. I hate thinking I am scratching the bottom of the speaker, no matter if you never see it.

You can get some rubber little deals which will hold it in place...

BUT, I would get a rug.

[RobP]

Sound anchors here.......

[chinets]

I only spike my drinks :rofl: , the rest ,are on special made to fit wooden boards ,that are covered with a velvet carpet material :T
Cheers!!

[Karma]

HI,
I spike everything I can. Speaker, subs, racks, amps, turntables, everything....almost. Even my tone arm is mounted on spikes and I would spike my cartridge if I could.

Actually, not everything or every situation is suited for spikes. Spikes alllow vibrational energy to be efficiently transmitted to a mechanical ground which itself is not influenced by vibration. Like a cement floor, for example. However, if the surface to which you are spiking is itself vibrating, the spikes will happily transmit vibration back to the equipment with negative effect.

So, you need to analyze your situation before you go crazy with spikes. Generally, they work very well if they are used properly. And the more you use the better the effect which tends to be additive.

Sparky

Edited for spelling (as usual!!)

[caleb]

HI,
I spike everything I can. Speaker, subs, racks, amps, turntables, everything....almost. Even my tone arm is mounted on spikes and I would spike my cartridge if I could.

Actually, not everything or every situation is suited for spikes. Spikes alllow vibrational energy to be efficiently transmitted to a mechanical ground which itself is not influenced by vibration. Like a cement floor, for example. However, if the surface to which you are spiking is itself vibrating, the spikes will happily transmit vibration back to the equipmnent with negative effect.

So, you need to analyze your situation before you go crazy with spikes. Generally, they work very well if they are used properly. And the more you use the better the effect which tends to be additive.

Sparky

You should change your name from SPARKY TO SPIKEY! !

[RebelMan]

You should change your name from SPARKY TO SPIKEY! !

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[ShadowZA]

I have my 803D fronts spiked. The HTM2D centre uses pasted-on rubber feet and rests on the cabinet top. The N804 rears are not spiked. Instead, they use screwed-in rubber feet (which came supplied with the 803D's) and rest on granite plinths. I have not yet spiked the DD-15 - simply have not got around to that yet.

[Karma]

You should change your name from SPARKY TO SPIKEY! !

HI caleb,
Hmmmm, not a bad idea but I couldn't do that to my friends yet again. They would never forgive me. :lol:

Sparky

[pbarach]

Actually, not everything or every situation is suited for spikes. Spikes alllow vibrational energy to be efficiently transmitted to a mechanical ground which itself is not influenced by vibration. Like a cement floor, for example. However, if the surface to which you are spiking is itself vibrating, the spikes will happily transmit vibration back to the equipmnent with negative effect.

I find this confusing. If you use spikes to transmit vibrational energy to a surface that is "not influenced by vibration," such as a concrete floor, then where does the vibrational energy go? If it's absorbed by the floor, then the floor would then become vibrating and would thus transmit some energy back to the spiked equipment, as you have described. But if it's not absorbed by the floor, then the equipment will continue to vibrate, which is not what you want.

Looking at what you've written from a different point, it follows that nobody should be using speaker spikes in a house with wooden frame construction, since the already-vibrating (from the music) floor would transmit the vibrations back to the equipment. Am I understanding your point?

[Karma]

I find this confusing. If you use spikes to transmit vibrational energy to a surface that is "not influenced by vibration," such as a concrete floor, then where does the vibrational energy go? If it's absorbed by the floor, then the floor would then become vibrating and would thus transmit some energy back to the spiked equipment, as you have described. But if it's not absorbed by the floor, then the equipment will continue to vibrate, which is not what you want.

Looking at what you've written from a different point, it follows that nobody should be using speaker spikes in a house with wooden frame construction, since the already-vibrating (from the music) floor would transmit the vibrations back to the equipment. Am I understanding your point?

HI pbarch,
I think you understand the issue just fine. Wooden frame construction, especially with suspended floors, is not ideal for spikes because of what you said. This would be an example of a case where an energy ABSORBING mounting system would probably work better. Speakers, in this case, could be largely prevented from transmitting vibration into the floor by using energy absorbing feet.

Racks could also benefit from absorbing feet thus reducing the energy from the floor reaching the equipment on the shelves. These variables is why I said that each situation must evaluated before committing to any particular mounting system. At least spikes or absorbers are cheap and easy to experiment with.

But, like every thing else, it's a matter of degree. If the floors are just vibrating a tiny little bit then spikes may offer some advantages....and maybe not. It depends on the situation but it will not be ideal. Suspended floor rooms tend to have tubby bass because of floor vibration unless a significant effort is made to prevent speaker vibration from reaching the floor. Even then, the air pressure waves from the room sound will still cause the floor to flex slightly and become a secondary radiator which will alter the sound.

The same also holds for typical sheetrock wall construction which will vibrate and add bass coloration. But with walls there isn't much you can do about it except rebuild the room. That's not very practical. At least with floors we have some options.

These are some of the reasons why purpose designed listening rooms will have solid walls and cement floors. The best rooms I have heard were built in basements.

As for where the vibration energy goes in, for example, a cement floor, the mass and stiffness of the surface causes the energy to be converted to heat where it is harmlessly dissipated. It ain't much heat but that's the mechanism of how spikes work into a good mechanical ground.

Sparky

[pbarach]

HI pbarch,
I think you understand the issue just fine. Wooden frame construction, especially with suspended floors, is not ideal for spikes because of what you said. This would be an example of a case where an energy ABSORBING mounting system would probably work better. Speakers, in this case, could be largely prevented from transmitting vibration into the floor by using energy absorbing feet.

This is different than what I've read elsewhere, but your explanation makes complete sense to me. I have a wooden-frame house where the floors vibrate plenty. Sometimes I feel like I'm living inside a cello . Although the hardwood floors are mostly left uncovered, I did put my 704's on top of a thick area rug that also extends several feet in front of them, which helps cut floor reflections. I used the rubber feet that came with the speakers. Any suggestions for more absorbent feet?

[Kal Rubinson]

This is different than what I've read elsewhere, but your explanation makes complete sense to me. I have a wooden-frame house where the floors vibrate plenty. Sometimes I feel like I'm living inside a cello . Although the hardwood floors are mostly left uncovered, I did put my 704's on top of a thick area rug that also extends several feet in front of them, which helps cut floor reflections. I used the rubber feet that came with the speakers. Any suggestions for more absorbent feet?

Get a SubDude for each speaker.

Kal

[miner]

Since I have hardwoods I used the B&W rubber feet under my sub & N804. Sort of spiking I suppose.

[RebelMan]

Sparky, lets say you have a solid surface virtually immune to any vibration influences. Do you have a spiking preference between absorption and transmission? I have the option of using either method with the spiking kit that came with my 800D. The spikes will be used on a concrete (porcelain tiled) floor, but I have no interested in experimenting between the two options because, as you know, each speakers weighs in at 275 pounds.

[ColoKurt]

I find this confusing. If you use spikes to transmit vibrational energy to a surface that is "not influenced by vibration," such as a concrete floor, then where does the vibrational energy go? If it's absorbed by the floor, then the floor would then become vibrating and would thus transmit some energy back to the spiked equipment, as you have described. But if it's not absorbed by the floor, then the equipment will continue to vibrate, which is not what you want.

Looking at what you've written from a different point, it follows that nobody should be using speaker spikes in a house with wooden frame construction, since the already-vibrating (from the music) floor would transmit the vibrations back to the equipment. Am I understanding your point?

My understanding of the role of the spike is that it is good at transmitting vibrational energy one way: towards the tip of the spike. Spikes can therefore reduce the vibration of the speaker, or whatever else you have mounted on them regardless of what type of flooring you have.

[sikoniko]

I have the soundcare spikes on my htm1 and asw850. mainly to get them off the ground. I didnt notice a difference by adding them. I did notice a difference on my N804's, quite substantial actually, when I put the sound anchor stands up them.

Once I get my room carpetted, I will invest in sound anchors for my N802's.

[Karma]

HI Reb,
You already know what I'm going to suggest. Spike 'em first and ask questions later. Knowing you, you have already researched the issue throughly and are just looking for some friendly confirmation.

Go for it. :T

Sparky

[misterdoggy]

I did spike but don't anymore. If anyone wants to buy my spikes for the 802D's (and any other 800 large) I will sell them at fair market price.

I felt there was absolutely no noticeable improvement, looked ugly, and accidents did happen gorging my floor.

I am so happy I took them off because the 802D's look beautiful lower on the floor.

[Karma]

HI doggy,
If I may ask, what type of floor are you using?

Sparky

[misterdoggy]

Hi Sparky,

Its a Concrete foundation, with Hardwood floor. Many a hole in my beautiful Hardwood floor, "accidentally"

Glad to see them gone

[JudyLou]

I have hardwood laminate floors, what is recommended for that? I hate having them on the bare floor, every time I move them a little, I feel like fingernails on the chalk board. I hate thinking I am scratching the bottom of the speaker, no matter if you never see it.

B&W make "spikes" with a white rubber instead of the sharl spike - work wonders.

[Audiophiliac]

The "spike", or mechanical diode, is designed to transmit energy one way. Vibrations will tend to follow the path of least resistance...just like water, electricity, air, and virtually anything. So spiking to a wooden floor is better than not spiking.

Now whether its better than using absorbing feet is an experiment worth trying. Ive never seen or read about a comparison. I will be willing to try this when my speakers get here (not ordered yet).

[misterdoggy]

The Rubber feet are on the opposite side of the spikes.

They would IMHO look really ugly. Whats wrong with the rollers ?

When you think about the amount of contact on the surface of the roller which is a round wheel, the surface area is quite small. Granted not as tiny as a spike, but less than a plastic foot or something like that.

I never heard a difference. I lived with the spikes for a year at least or more and the day I changed them, I heard nothing "0" null rien nada niente Zero difference.

For those of you who have hardwood beautiful floors, save yourself the pain and suffering for improvements that can only be perceived by those using the "force" and can hear things above normal man.

And IMHO they are more beautiful just the way they are.

[Glen B]

I have hardwood laminate floors, what is recommended for that? I hate having them on the bare floor, every time I move them a little, I feel like fingernails on the chalk board. I hate thinking I am scratching the bottom of the speaker, no matter if you never see it.

There are protectors available for wood surfaces when you use spikes. They're a little metal disk with a dimple in the center, in which the tip of the spike sits. I use them under my speakers to protect my parquet floors.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STAPCD2

http://www.musicdirect.com/products/detail.asp?sku=AASDISC

[misterdoggy]

There are protectors available for wood surfaces when you use spikes. They're a little metal disk with a dimple in the center, in which the tip of the spike sits. I use them under my speakers to protect my parquet floors.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STAPCD2

http://www.musicdirect.com/products/...sp?sku=AASDISC

Glen,

Well Yeahhhhhhhh.............

No one is going to put a spike in to their wood floors.

I used the disks, but when you move the speaker you have to be very careful to line up the spike and disk and if you miss.........

[ZX10 Guy]

This is what I did for my hardwood floors and spiking of my speakers.

Rear N804s with B&W supplied spikes:



Front N804s on Sound Anchor stands and spikes:


Close up of the pucks. First pic is of pucks I purchased a long time ago from Audio Advisor which no longer carries them in black. Second pic is of some Lovan pucks I picked up recently. I like the Lovans better as the dimple for the spikes to sit in is much deeper than the ones I got from Audio Advisor.



The rear N804s on the supplied B&W spikes and on the pucks isn't very stable. So be warned if you have a lot of foot traffic around these speakers. I plan on buying some Sound Anchor stands for the rears when money permits to help in creating more stability.

[Glen B]

I used the disks, but when you move the speaker you have to be very careful to line up the spike and disk and if you miss.........

I don't have a problem moving my speakers. I just push gently at the base and everything slides together.

[RebelMan]

Now whether its better than using absorbing feet is an experiment worth trying. Ive never seen or read about a comparison. I will be willing to try this when my speakers get here (not ordered yet).

I would very much like to hear about it when you do. Although I am encouraged by Sparky's ( politcal :W ) response to my question, I nevertheless believe your experiment would be beneficial.

[RebelMan]

The Rubber feet are on the opposite side of the spikes.

They would IMHO look really ugly. Whats wrong with the rollers ?

And IMHO they are more beautiful just the way they are.

With a pair of 802s mounted on a carpetless surface I am inclined to agree that spikes steal some of the beauty built into the plinth. However, the 800D plinth is not as attractive, IMO, and I think they beg to be spiked, aesthetically speaking. But what the 800D plinth lacks in pure beauty it more than makes up for in stability. Spiked or not, its foundation is rock solid.

[RebelMan]

Second pic is of some Lovan pucks I picked up recently. I like the Lovans better as the dimple for the spikes to sit in is much deeper than the ones I got from Audio Advisor.

Love the pics, thanks Guy. Do you know if the Lovan disks are universally compatible with all spikes? What are they made of and what is the weight capacity?

[RebelMan]

There are protectors available for wood surfaces when you use spikes. They're a little metal disk with a dimple in the center, in which the tip of the spike sits. I use them under my speakers to protect my parquet floors.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STAPCD2

http://www.musicdirect.com/products/...sp?sku=AASDISC

Which do you use Glen? I am interested in the second link but very little info on them. Same questions I aked Guy apply here too, if you please.

[sarsi]

After some very very painful experiences where my speakers spikes scratches my new living room marble flooring and leaving holes in my bedroom parquet (very very unhappy wife and myself too), I finally broke down and replaced all my spikes with the Sound care superspikes (Norway product). Though expensive but it is much cheaper compare to the psychological pains and aches of damaged flooring

I heard it is safer for those with young kids as well.

http://www.soundcare.no

[scanido]

The Soundcare Superspikes seem like a great choice. Anyone with actual pics with them on the speakers?

[sarsi]

Hi Scanido,

Here are a few pictures of superspike in action; my front 703 speaker on the gold version of superspike . The gold version are twice the price of normal one so the rest of the speakers are the normal ones, anyway only cosmetically more beautiful with clear plastic instead of black. The other one, my ASW750 sub on the normal superspike

[scanido]

Thanks for sharing Sarsi! They look better than i imagined.

Is your HTM7 spiked as well with the adhesive Superspikes?

[sarsi]

No, the HTM7 is not on spikes I used the original B&W rubber footer for HTM7. I did tried with the superspike on the HTM7 and it look kind of weird and like funny looking robot that couldn't walk straight . Very low WAF, it is ban for sitting on the middle of my wife precious marble console with those funny "shoes" .

[misterdoggy]

Warning about rollers on wood floors

While the spikes were accidents waiting to happen on my hardwood floors, taking them off and going to Rollers was just as much a mistake

Now instead of holes from the spikes (when they missed the cups) I have roll marks in the wood where the speaker rolled.

They are very heavy and leave a trace where-ever they have been.

The best solution would be the Rubber side of the spike set. I hope that the rest of you can profit by my mistake.

[sarsi]

That is why I used the superspikes instead of spikes, it come with a felt sticker that you paste on bottom of the superspike so that it wil not leave marks on the wood flooring, I find it to be easy for position the speakers and some slide movement or adjustment, moving smoothly. However, it is not design to be pushed around the house coz' you can feel the rattling vibration, though they are concealed as per picture above but physically it is still a footer sitting on a disc.