Hey Guys,
I recently bought a very useful toy that measures and displays voltage, current, real power, power consumption, power costs, max power, max current, etc, etc.
It's a real quick way of determining how much power your HT system uses. It's also handy for lots of other uses around the home when you need to know if you've got a little too much plugged into a receptacle. In the past I have used a breakout AC cord and my meter measuring current to establish the power, but it's slightly dangerous if your not careful, and a bit of a hassle. This device makes it quite easy.
It's also useful to leave plugged in with some system equipment that you leave on all the time where you want to see how much power they draw over a month perhaps. Even when your system is turned off there are lamps etc that leak power. Might be interesting to see what it costs you....
We tend to over estimate the requirements for our stereo systems with our multi 20 amp circuits...... some people may get a bit of a surprise if they bought one of these devices.
For example, I have two 20 amp dedicated circuits for my system. On one side I have 3 Bryston amplifiers, a Bryston processor and a Feedback Destroyer plugged into a controller (with its huge 10-3 cab tire AC cord) which then plugs into a 20 amp receptacle . I could probably arc weld with that cable. The three amplifiers alone as configured are spec'd to supply 1530 watts.
Hook up my new measuring device to this circuit (you just plug it into the wall receptacle and then plug your AC cord into it). :T
Total power dissipated at idle with all 3 amps and processor and BFD turned on ......... 219 watts.
Total power dissipated with normal listening level music....... about 300 watts. And before you say, ya but what about the demands of explosions etc.........well, that comes from your filter capacitors. Safe to say my 20 amp circuit (2400 VA) is suffice.
The other nice feature of this device is that it shows real power (watts) and not volt-amps (VA). As everyone knows, unless a device is purely resistive (i.e. a toaster), then power factor must be taken into consideration. If you plug an amplifier into a 120 volt circuit and it draws 3 amps, then the power in watts dissipated isn't 120 x 3 = 360 watts. The 360 watts is actually volt/amps (360 VA). The real power dissipated in watts is 120 x 3 x PF (power factor).
Power factor is required to be considered as a result of the current lagging the voltage in a device that is not a pure resistance. Boring stuff, but interesting that this device calculates it. No doubt they use a zero crossing measurement to calculate the phase angle to get the power factor, but that is quite acceptable when using a pure sine wave.
So for my amplifiers, the device shows 120 volts, 2.11 amps, 219 watts. If I multiply 120 x 2.11 = 253 VA. So the power factor is 0.87
Here's a picture.
.
.
.
.
I bought this thing at Canadian Tire in the electrical department for $24.99. Good toy for a good price....
brucek
I recently bought a very useful toy that measures and displays voltage, current, real power, power consumption, power costs, max power, max current, etc, etc.
It's a real quick way of determining how much power your HT system uses. It's also handy for lots of other uses around the home when you need to know if you've got a little too much plugged into a receptacle. In the past I have used a breakout AC cord and my meter measuring current to establish the power, but it's slightly dangerous if your not careful, and a bit of a hassle. This device makes it quite easy.
It's also useful to leave plugged in with some system equipment that you leave on all the time where you want to see how much power they draw over a month perhaps. Even when your system is turned off there are lamps etc that leak power. Might be interesting to see what it costs you....
We tend to over estimate the requirements for our stereo systems with our multi 20 amp circuits...... some people may get a bit of a surprise if they bought one of these devices.
For example, I have two 20 amp dedicated circuits for my system. On one side I have 3 Bryston amplifiers, a Bryston processor and a Feedback Destroyer plugged into a controller (with its huge 10-3 cab tire AC cord) which then plugs into a 20 amp receptacle . I could probably arc weld with that cable. The three amplifiers alone as configured are spec'd to supply 1530 watts.
Hook up my new measuring device to this circuit (you just plug it into the wall receptacle and then plug your AC cord into it). :T
Total power dissipated at idle with all 3 amps and processor and BFD turned on ......... 219 watts.
Total power dissipated with normal listening level music....... about 300 watts. And before you say, ya but what about the demands of explosions etc.........well, that comes from your filter capacitors. Safe to say my 20 amp circuit (2400 VA) is suffice.
The other nice feature of this device is that it shows real power (watts) and not volt-amps (VA). As everyone knows, unless a device is purely resistive (i.e. a toaster), then power factor must be taken into consideration. If you plug an amplifier into a 120 volt circuit and it draws 3 amps, then the power in watts dissipated isn't 120 x 3 = 360 watts. The 360 watts is actually volt/amps (360 VA). The real power dissipated in watts is 120 x 3 x PF (power factor).
Power factor is required to be considered as a result of the current lagging the voltage in a device that is not a pure resistance. Boring stuff, but interesting that this device calculates it. No doubt they use a zero crossing measurement to calculate the phase angle to get the power factor, but that is quite acceptable when using a pure sine wave.
So for my amplifiers, the device shows 120 volts, 2.11 amps, 219 watts. If I multiply 120 x 2.11 = 253 VA. So the power factor is 0.87
Here's a picture.
.
.
.
.
I bought this thing at Canadian Tire in the electrical department for $24.99. Good toy for a good price....
brucek
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