It's time for a Statement announcing my latest project..

[looneybomber]

Yeah, that looks better with the a and e tucked inside the t's. (Typing during the commercials as I watch Darth Federer at work. )

Oh I like that better. That's something I didn't like about the font. The words seemed spread out.

[Coconutout]

i thought of another ridiculous look while taking a bath. (yes, the statements are all i think about these days) the spike bars are way too expensive and doesn't look that impressive either. instead, behold, the alien statement! the green tubes would be made out of steel pipings and filled with sand. i've used the pipes for building a racing wheel stand for games and they're virtually indestructable- no play or bending at all. the pipes would be drilled into the top of the cabinet and sealed properly ofcorse. if there's no concern for the loss of sound quality here, i would like to proceed with this design with your blessing, jim. thanks.


P.S. does the front side have to be 1.25" thick? i thought i would just go with 1.5" by cutting another piece out of the existing 3/4" sheet to save some cost.

[Jim Holtz]

could you guys help me find the kind of metal base that i link pics with on my previous post? to me, the stylish arrangement of Statement's drivers are just asking for a futuristic look. here's a rough sketch of what im going for- the orange part will be laminated with cherry wood while the rest is black velvet. i had an ambient light problem with my previous speakers in my home theater and in the end i was covering the whole thing with black curtain. i'd like to know if there will be an edge defraction problem with a sheet of velvet covering over the wood. or should i just lay the cherry wood laminate over the velvet? and what glue should i be using for the velvet? please notice that the tweeter is drawn at the center of the cabinet- that is because im a rather short person and my seating height is only 32". im hoping to find a metal base that can elevate the speakers at least 5". i'm sorry if i seem to be firing on this thread with so many random questions but this is the biggest diy ive ever taken and am frankly extremely excited

Hi Coconutout,

I'm not sue what to suggest to adhere the velvet but I wouldn't attach hardwood or veneer over the top of it. Maybe someone with more finishing skills than I can chime in.

I think these might be the speaker bases you're looking for.

http://www.oregondv.com/Floor_Standing_Speaker_Stands.htm

Good luck and post pictures! :T

Jim

[Sefferdog]

As difficult as it was, the Statements are torn down and in the garage in preparation for finishing. I am guessing they will be down for about a week. In the interim I will get to know the Mini's quite well! Here is a pic of the before, after to follow.

[Coconutout]

hey guys, i feel like a bit of a troll now and im sorry i ask this again but, please, could i get some inputs on my previous post? the stuff about metal pipe 'stand' and 1.5" baffle. my PE orders are coming in tomorrow and i dont intend to go to sleep until i hear the first note from my newly finished statements.

[Jim Holtz]

hey guys, i feel like a bit of a troll now and im sorry i ask this again but, please, could i get some inputs on my previous post? the stuff about metal pipe 'stand' and 1.5" baffle. my PE orders are coming in tomorrow and i dont intend to go to sleep until i hear the first note from my newly finished statements.

Hi Coconutout,

Sorry I missed your post. Here are my thoughts on your questions. The pipes are fine. It's strictly an appearance item and won't affect performance at all. That's where the DIY part comes in. Make them look the way you want. The critical specifications on the cabinet are maintaining a similar cabinet width so baffle step isn't affected and maintaining the 100 liter volume for the RS225's chamber so the port tuning isn't affected. Minor depth changes won't affect the transmission line for the mids.

You can use a 1 1/2" front baffle if you increase the depth of the cabinet 1/4". The reason I didn't do that is because of a concern about shrouding the mids. The back of the baffle on the mids *has to be* scalloped or rounded over with a 3/4" round over bit so that the front baffle doesn't create a tunnel for the mid drivers. This is very important and is covered in the write up on Curt's website. If you've not read the complete write up on Curt's website and read this thread thoroughly, I'd encourage you to do so. Most of these issues are covered. :W

Good luck with the build. We do want to see pictures of your progress and completed speakers.

Jim

[Curt C]

i thought of another ridiculous look while taking a bath. (yes, the statements are all i think about these days) the spike bars are way too expensive and doesn't look that impressive either. instead, behold, the alien statement! the green tubes would be made out of steel pipings and filled with sand. i've used the pipes for building a racing wheel stand for games and they're virtually indestructable- no play or bending at all. the pipes would be drilled into the top of the cabinet and sealed properly ofcorse. if there's no concern for the loss of sound quality here, i would like to proceed with this design with your blessing, jim. thanks.


P.S. does the front side have to be 1.25" thick? i thought i would just go with 1.5" by cutting another piece out of the existing 3/4" sheet to save some cost.

I see no real issue with the space alien look. The tough part will be the secure attachment of the pipes at the top of the enclosure. Some internal reinforcement and the pipe inserted into the enclosure, would be necessary I would think.

1.5" front baffle is fine, but be sure to scallop out the back side of the speaker hole (you'd be doing this anyway, but now its even more important) to preclude any cavity resonances.

[thatdave]

I am lobbying for full blown statements with the wife.
Will they be OK upside down, port on top?
They would be resting on top of an 18inch tall cabinet, slid to the front so the fronts are flush. Cabinet will hold the weight fine. Right side up will put the tweet about 18 inches above ear level, but upside down is about spot on.

[Curt C]

I am lobbying for full blown statements with the wife.
Will they be OK upside down, port on top?
They would be resting on top of an 18inch tall cabinet, slid to the front so the fronts are flush. Cabinet will hold the weight fine. Right side up will put the tweet about 18 inches above ear level, but upside down is about spot on.

There will be nothing functionally wrong with the inverted installation. -I'm thinking they might look a bit ungainly with all that real estate above up there, though. Perhaps you could take off a bit of that extra baffle height and compensate with added depth...

C

[Coconutout]

this is unbelievable but ive already run into a big problem. i got short changed at Lowes- their 3/4" MDFs turned out to be 5/8". when i got the woods cut at Lowes, i ended up with so many pieces that the cashier did not bother to find the piece with the barcode on it. and i didn't think much of it since it was labelled and sold as 3/4". but just a second ago, while cutting out holes for braces, i found the barcode- it says 5/8"... now i got a box that's gonna get an F on knuckle test. i gotta go back there and complain. but more importantly, how can i fix this?

[Jim Holtz]

this is unbelievable but ive already run into a big problem. i got short changed at Lowes- their 3/4" MDFs turned out to be 5/8". when i got the woods cut at Lowes, i ended up with so many pieces that the cashier did not bother to find the piece with the barcode on it. and i didn't think much of it since it was labelled and sold as 3/4". but just a second ago, while cutting out holes for braces, i found the barcode- it says 5/8"... now i got a box that's gonna get an F on knuckle test. i gotta go back there and complain. but more importantly, how can i fix this?

Ho Coconutout,

I think you have a couple different choices. You can drag everything back to Lowes with your receipt and tell them they cut the wrong MDF and see if they'll replace it no charge or you could reduce the exterior dimension (HxWxD), add a couple extra braces and build the statements with 5/8" MDF instead.

The problem with the 5/8" MDF is that the cut list will no longer apply for the vertical braces etc. Everything else should work. Using 3/4" as speced would be your best alternative, however.

Good luck!

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

I am lobbying for full blown statements with the wife.
Will they be OK upside down, port on top?
They would be resting on top of an 18inch tall cabinet, slid to the front so the fronts are flush. Cabinet will hold the weight fine. Right side up will put the tweet about 18 inches above ear level, but upside down is about spot on.

I don't think I'd want a port on the top. It could be rear ported easily. I agree with Curt, if you want a ported cabinet, reduce the height and increase the depth.

Another alternative is to make the main cabinet 40" tall and and build it sealed instead of ported. F3 is now about 50 Hz. instead of 33 Hz. but it'll integrate wonderfully with a sub.

Jim

[Coconutout]

im gonna go back to lowes, find the thinnest mdf they sell there and get them cut so that i can cover the outside dimension of my box. so i would essentially have a cabinet thats much thicker than 3/4". if anything, i want to make my statements bigger and better

[thatdave]

Can the placement of the drivers in the baffle be lowered? Perhaps tweeter centered (27.5in), other drivers shifted accordingly without too much impact on the original soundstage?

Would the port be better on the front or rear?

As the wife likes options, The possible sealed variant. Would the rest of the design (driver placement, crossover..ect) be the same? Just seal it and shave off 11 inches from the cabinet bottom? Will go well with the current sub (crossed at 80Hz)

And will that still match with the center when it is complete?

Sorry for ssooo many questions, like coconutout this will be a first DIY speaker for us.

Thank you all so much...

[Jim Holtz]

1. Can the placement of the drivers in the baffle be lowered? Perhaps tweeter centered (27.5in), other drivers shifted accordingly without too much impact on the original soundstage?

2. Would the port be better on the front or rear?

3. As the wife likes options, The possible sealed variant. Would the rest of the design (driver placement, crossover..ect) be the same? Just seal it and shave off 11 inches from the cabinet bottom? Will go well with the current sub (crossed at 80Hz)

4. And will that still match with the center when it is complete?

Sorry for ssooo many questions, like coconutout this will be a first DIY speaker for us.

Thank you all so much...

Ok, here are the answers to your questions in order.

1. You can shift the drivers with the same spacing up or down on the baffle as needed. Do keep them in a vertical line with the same spacing.

2. I'd do a rear port personally. There is always a chance of hearing some port noise from front mounted ports.

3. Actually, you'll cut 15" off the height of the main cabinet since it's 55" tall plus the base. 40" would be with out the base since you're going to sit it on something. You eliminate the port of course. That should give you a box Q of about .7 or so. The RS225's have a F3 of 50 Hz. and the bass is extremely clean and solid into the mid 40's. I would not cross to a sub above 50 Hz. and I'd start at 40 Hz. The quality of mid bass from (2) RS225 will be better than the best subs, IMHO.

4. Going sealed won't affect the integration with the center at all. They'll all blend very well.

No apologies necessary. We all had a 1st project and it's a little intimidating at first. Patience and perseverance will get you through the hard parts and you'll be glad you made the journey.

Jim

[Sefferdog]

im gonna go back to lowes, find the thinnest mdf they sell there and get them cut so that i can cover the outside dimension of my box. so i would essentially have a cabinet thats much thicker than 3/4". if anything, i want to make my statements bigger and better

I hope you have a strong back and a LOT of friends. 8O It is all I can do to carry mine from the garage to the house with the drivers removed. I have all 3/4" construction with a 1.5" front baffle. They are in the garage right now awaiting veneer and I have to find a way to con a friend or two to come over to help me flop them around as I veneer them. They are a real monster to work with! 8O

[Jim Holtz]

I hope you have a strong back and a LOT of friends. 8O It is all I can do to carry mine from the garage to the house with the drivers removed. I have all 3/4" construction with a 1.5" front baffle. They are in the garage right now awaiting veneer and I have to find a way to con a friend or two to come over to help me flop them around as I veneer them. They are a real monster to work with! 8O

Think 2-wheelers from the local discount store. I have an inside 2-wheeler and an outside 2-wheeler. :rofl: $20 a piece. It was the best investment I've made in a while.

That doesn't solve the problem of wrestling them around but it does help save your energy for the heavy lifting.

Jim

[Coconutout]

I hope you have a strong back and a LOT of friends. 8O It is all I can do to carry mine from the garage to the house with the drivers removed. I have all 3/4" construction with a 1.5" front baffle. They are in the garage right now awaiting veneer and I have to find a way to con a friend or two to come over to help me flop them around as I veneer them. They are a real monster to work with! 8O

thanks, sefferdog. i did think about this problem. as the speakers are nearing completion and getting heavier, that problem was becoming more and more apparent. i did come up with a little tweak for it tho.

notice the red bar thats been added on the side view- handles even if my friends come over to help me, they wont be there every time i need to make adjustments. so i will be adding handles on the sides. i'll cover it with more velvet and that will make it seem to dissapear. how heavy are the drivers?

oh also, i found what i was looking for at Lowes today- Fiberock. they're basically gypsum sheets made to behave like wooden sheets. they feel like wood and glues like one too. much heavier density than MDF to boot. i'll be covering all sides with it except the baffle. that plus the metal piping pairs that will go through the top, i think my cabinets will be able to pass the knuckle test with flying colors

i still do have a concern tho and that is the router. i've never used one and not confident about it. i did order a jasper circle guide from PE. does that thing come with a pivoting screw?

[looneybomber]

i did order a jasper circle guide from PE. does that thing come with a pivoting screw?

Pivoting screw? No.
Pivoting pin? Yes.
Does it come with the 1/8" drill bit required to drill the hole for the pivoting pin? No.

[thatdave]

Jim,
Thank you for the advice. Sealed will fit much better than the full size ported. I will update when get get started.

Dave

[Coconutout]

i was able to fire up just one speaker today- the cabinet isnt even done (foam hasnt shipped yet) so it was just the drivers on the baffle. i wasn't expecting much but wow, what a detail and clarity. ever since selling my senheiser setup, i've been longing for that ultra fidelity sound and it looks like i'm about to meet it again. now the bass was almost non-existant since it was open baffle but i have no doubt that i'll be pleasantly surpised there too. thank you jim and everybody who helped to make this happen.

i made another problem tho. while soldering the crossovers, i put my solder too close to a 3om cap and it got really hot and the rubber coating became sticky. do you think it's been damaged?

[Jim Holtz]

i made another problem tho. while soldering the crossovers, i put my solder too close to a 3om cap and it got really hot and the rubber coating became sticky. do you think it's been damaged?

Hi Coconutout,

If you like them now, you'll really love them when they're done. :T

I'm afraid I can't answer your question, however. I've not done this personally and I'm not certain how sensitive caps are to heat. Perhaps one of the other folks can jump in with their thoughts.

BTW, don't forget that the mids do have reverse polarity so the positive crossover side lead goes to the driver negative terminal and negative side goes to the positive driver terminal.

Keep us updated!

Jim

[Curt C]

i made another problem tho. while soldering the crossovers, i put my solder too close to a 3om cap and it got really hot and the rubber coating became sticky. do you think it's been damaged?

I'm sure it's fine, but to be sure:
Measure accross the cap with an ohmmeter. If it measures shorted, buy a new one. If it measures open, you are good to go.

C

[Curt C]

Think 2-wheelers from the local discount store. I have an inside 2-wheeler and an outside 2-wheeler. :rofl: $20 a piece. It was the best investment I've made in a while.

That doesn't solve the problem of wrestling them around but it does help save your energy for the heavy lifting.

Jim

Jim, after manhandling the Statements during their temporary residence in my home, I thought a grab bar and 2 caster wheels permently mounted on the back of the enclosure would be the cat's meow. :T

[Jim Holtz]

Jim, after manhandling the Statements during their temporary residence in my home, I thought a grab bar and 2 caster wheels permently mounted on the back of the enclosure would be the cat's meow. :T

That would work too. :T

Jim

[Sefferdog]

Jim, after manhandling the Statements during their temporary residence in my home, I thought a grab bar and 2 caster wheels permently mounted on the back of the enclosure would be the cat's meow. :T

I have a better idea. Con your neighbor into helping you get them where you want them, then don't move them!!! :T That is my plan anyway.

[Coconutout]

guys, i fired up both of my speakers yesterday and i would like to thank all of you for making it happen. i am in a nirvana now. these are the greatest speakers i have ever heard and now i know where ill be spending my money on for the rest of my life. i am a newly converted audio nut. i still have problems/questions tho. i accidently dropped one of the rs255 and damaged the connectors. so one of the speaker only has one driver working. the broken one is mounted so there's a seal. but that speaker is for some reason 3 decibles louder than the other one. is it just the woofer or something wrong with the crossover? for your info, the working woofer is mounted top on the speaker that has the broken woofer. and since the speakers dont have bases yet, the top woofer is pretty close to the ear level. i hope thats the reason why that speaker is louder... but i wanted to know if a problem in crossover could cause it. also, i ended up going with 703 and kind of regret it because my whole apartment is covered with fiberglass shards now. i had to go thru everything with a lint roller- starting with my skin. the port and the mid cabinets where the 703 is exposed, do you think they will be constantly generating fiberglass dust? if you say yes, i do have a remedy tho- hairspray a coat of plastic would solve all my worries.

sorry its really wordy. im more than a little excited. night and day difference from my last jon kurtle mtmts. audio nirvana, i tell ya.

[ahaik]

guys, i fired up both of my speakers yesterday and i would like to thank all of you for making it happen. i am in a nirvana now. these are the greatest speakers i have ever heard and now i know where ill be spending my money on for the rest of my life. i am a newly converted audio nut. i still have problems/questions tho. i accidently dropped one of the rs255 and damaged the connectors. so one of the speaker only has one driver working. the broken one is mounted so there's a seal. but that speaker is for some reason 3 decibles louder than the other one. is it just the woofer or something wrong with the crossover? for your info, the working woofer is mounted top on the speaker that has the broken woofer. and since the speakers dont have bases yet, the top woofer is pretty close to the ear level. i hope thats the reason why that speaker is louder... but i wanted to know if a problem in crossover could cause it. also, i ended up going with 703 and kind of regret it because my whole apartment is covered with fiberglass shards now. i had to go thru everything with a lint roller- starting with my skin. the port and the mid cabinets where the 703 is exposed, do you think they will be constantly generating fiberglass dust? if you say yes, i do have a remedy tho- hairspray a coat of plastic would solve all my worries.

sorry its really wordy. im more than a little excited. night and day difference from my last jon kurtle mtmts. audio nirvana, i tell ya.

Congrats... :T
Pictures please...

[Sefferdog]

Finally getting the Statements finished. Same treatment as the Mini's. Red oak veneer, a coat of Zinser's wax free sanding sealer, a coat of golden oak stain. All that is left is find an unfinished furniture store around town here and get some wipe-on poly. Here is a pic... :T

[Coconutout]

what about the fiberglass? im really concerned for my lungs

[Jed]

Here is a pic... :T

;x( ;x( :T :B

You are really making me want to make big speakers. Seriously, awesome work.

Jed

[Jed]

what about the fiberglass? im really concerned for my lungs

The newer fiberglass isn't as bad as the old stuff from the 80s or whatever. Shouldn't be an issue at all. I've insulated my attic for hours without much of a problem. Just wear a dust mask if you are worried.

[Jim Holtz]

Finally getting the Statements finished. Same treatment as the Mini's. Red oak veneer, a coat of Zinser's wax free sanding sealer, a coat of golden oak stain. All that is left is find an unfinished furniture store around town here and get some wipe-on poly. Here is a pic... :T

Hi Wade,

The Statements look great! Excellent work as usual... :T

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

guys, i fired up both of my speakers yesterday and i would like to thank all of you for making it happen. i am in a nirvana now. these are the greatest speakers i have ever heard and now i know where ill be spending my money on for the rest of my life. i am a newly converted audio nut. i still have problems/questions tho. i accidently dropped one of the rs255 and damaged the connectors. so one of the speaker only has one driver working. the broken one is mounted so there's a seal. but that speaker is for some reason 3 decibles louder than the other one. is it just the woofer or something wrong with the crossover? for your info, the working woofer is mounted top on the speaker that has the broken woofer. and since the speakers dont have bases yet, the top woofer is pretty close to the ear level. i hope thats the reason why that speaker is louder... but i wanted to know if a problem in crossover could cause it. also, i ended up going with 703 and kind of regret it because my whole apartment is covered with fiberglass shards now. i had to go thru everything with a lint roller- starting with my skin. the port and the mid cabinets where the 703 is exposed, do you think they will be constantly generating fiberglass dust? if you say yes, i do have a remedy tho- hairspray a coat of plastic would solve all my worries.

sorry its really wordy. im more than a little excited. night and day difference from my last jon kurtle mtmts. audio nirvana, i tell ya.

Hi Coconutout,

Sorry to hear about the damaged RS225. You will have to replace it if it's non repairable to get the correct sound. I'm not sure about the 3 db difference but double check the crossover wiring and make sure the mids are wired in reverse polarity.

Jed answered your question about the fiberglass. Once installed, it won't be an issue. Please post some pictures. We'd like to see what you've been building.

Jim

[Brian Bunge]

Wade,

I pass an unfinished furniture store every day and can pick up some for you if you can't find any locally. I'll have to figure out how to ship it to you though as I believe it's considered a chemical and may not be able to ship through FedEx or UPS.

Also, you can go to www.olddads.com and contact them about the nearest store to you that sells their products. They are the actual manufacturer.

[Sefferdog]

Wade,
Also, you can go to www.olddads.com and contact them about the nearest store to you that sells their products. They are the actual manufacturer.

Brian, I got impatient and finished the Statements with the Minwax poly. :E I did email Old Dad's though and found out there is a dealer right here in Ocala by where I work. I am going to stop in the next time I am by there and stock up. Thank you very much for the offer to stop and get me some. It is appreciated. :T

[Brian Bunge]

Brian, I got impatient and finished the Statements with the Minwax poly. :E I did email Old Dad's though and found out there is a dealer right here in Ocala by where I work. I am going to stop in the next time I am by there and stock up. Thank you very much for the offer to stop and get me some. It is appreciated. :T

DOH!!!

Just joking with you. It might be possible to add a few coats of their poly over the minwax. It's possible it could give you a nicer finish.

Oh, and when you go by there check to see if they carry the gloss poly. Most of the stores don't seem to carry it. They just carry the satin and semi-gloss. I like at least a little sheen so I use the semi-gloss. With the satin I have to use a good 5-6 coats to get something that does not look completely flat.

[Sefferdog]

Here is the completed deal. I tried several different finishes on the bases and never did find one I liked. That's when my wife suggested rounding the corners to match the speaker and finishing it like the actual speaker. She was right. I love the look of the matching bases.

This project has been very much fun and a lot of firsts for me. This was the first time I have ever veneered and I could not be more pleased with the results. I am also extremely happy that the speakers sound as good as they do, otherwise all of the sweat equity I have built into them would seem like wasted time.

Thanks for all of the support you provided Jim, it saved me tons of time and headaches! You are truly a pleasure to deal with. :T ;x(

While I had the bases out in the garage finishing them I decided to cut a channel out the back side of the base, like the Mini's. The way they sat down on the carpet I was concerned about airflow. Now they can breathe!

Here is a pic of the completed deal. It is taken inside with flash so the color is off somewhat. If I am feeling my Wheaties tomorrow I may pack them outside and get a couple of better shots. They are a very, very impressive Statement!

[Jim Holtz]

Here is the completed deal. I tried several different finishes on the bases and never did find one I liked. That's when my wife suggested rounding the corners to match the speaker and finishing it like the actual speaker. She was right. I love the look of the matching bases.

This project has been very much fun and a lot of firsts for me. This was the first time I have ever veneered and I could not be more pleased with the results. I am also extremely happy that the speakers sound as good as they do, otherwise all of the sweat equity I have built into them would seem like wasted time.

Thanks for all of the support you provided Jim, it saved me tons of time and headaches! You are truly a pleasure to deal with. :T ;x(

While I had the bases out in the garage finishing them I decided to cut a channel out the back side of the base, like the Mini's. The way they sat down on the carpet I was concerned about airflow. Now they can breathe!

Here is a pic of the completed deal. It is taken inside with flash so the color is off somewhat. If I am feeling my Wheaties tomorrow I may pack them outside and get a couple of better shots. They are a very, very impressive Statement!

Hi Wade,

Your Statements came out beautiful! Very, very nice job! :T They now look as good as they sound.

BTW, no thanks necessary. Your satisfaction is all thanks I need.

Enjoy!

Jim

[technimac]

Absolutely top rate finish on those Statements, Wade.
I love the centered book-matched grain look on the baffle. :T

[Brian Walter]

Wade, those Statements look really nice. You do good work and should be very proud of them. :T

Brian Walter

[Sefferdog]

Absolutely top rate finish on those Statements, Wade.
I love the centered book-matched grain look on the baffle. :T

Thank you for the compliments.

Both speakers are book matched to one another also. The two sheets of veneer I used were identical. Looks pretty neat.

At some point today I am going to pack a Statement and a Mini outside and snap a couple of pics of both of them together.

Wade

[thatdave]

Wife and I cut all the MDF over the weekend, started assembly last night. Ordered all the parts once we taped a box together to have a full size model in place to see if we liked the space they take up. Any recomendations on wire size to/from crossovers to drivers? I assume they are ok between the foam and the MDF. I have as big as 8 gauge, but that seems to be overkill for internal connections. For absorption for the RS225s, just pad the box area over/under the mid passages around them? Would a little trim around the mid passage exit be ok? Maybe 1/4-1/2in added to passage length. Pictures will come soon, figure all have seen enough shots of MDF piles..
We hope ours looks as good as the few completed we have seen, going black walnut/lyptus baffle, black walnut sides.

[Jim Holtz]

Wife and I cut all the MDF over the weekend, started assembly last night. Ordered all the parts once we taped a box together to have a full size model in place to see if we liked the space they take up. Any recomendations on wire size to/from crossovers to drivers? I assume they are ok between the foam and the MDF. I have as big as 8 gauge, but that seems to be overkill for internal connections. For absorption for the RS225s, just pad the box area over/under the mid passages around them? Would a little trim around the mid passage exit be ok? Maybe 1/4-1/2in added to passage length. Pictures will come soon, figure all have seen enough shots of MDF piles..
We hope ours looks as good as the few completed we have seen, going black walnut/lyptus baffle, black walnut sides.

Hi Dave,

Wire is a personal preference thing. I've used a lot of the 14 gauge Teflon coated wire from Apex Jr. but have recently switched to Bluejeans cable 12 gauge for internal wiring. It works great and is flexible enough that it doesn't put too much stress on the driver terminals. It's also very reasonably priced. I've become a fan of Bluejeans Cable speaker wire. It compares favorably with very, very expensive speaker cables at pennies on the dollar.

The trim on the rear openings won't hurt a thing.

We're looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished speakers. They sound really pretty. :T

Jim

[Sefferdog]

Last pics, I promise...

Here are the last pics I will post, promise!! I thought y'all might want to see the Mini and the Statement side by side from a couple of angles. Here you go, the happy family (expecting an addition anytime, the matching center :T ).

I will be building new bases for the Minis to match the Statements. I like the matching base better than the black.