SMJ Audio Calliope MT Build

[Steve Manning]

Those speeds are pretty good and until Steve has a need to push through tens and tens of these per day, using moderate speeds makes total sense.. I've been even more careful sometimes, but in milling case too slow is also bad as the bit starts to heat and will be ruined in no time (been there and done that too).
So I find this CNC feed and speed topic a very interesting multi variable challenge. Goal is to find some sort of optimum... one has to force himself to be very systematic and only change one (or max 2) parameters at each iteration and mark down the outcome... otherwise it's just shooting in dark.

With the mdf I think I can go considerably higher with feed rate. The new bit I just picked up, https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14546-46179-k.html, will let me cut at 400 IPM, which my machine will do. Try that with bamboo and it's going to get ugly. Going to need a lot bigger machine for that.

[Bear]

With the mdf I think I can go considerably higher with feed rate. The new bit I just picked up, https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14546-46179-k.html, will let me cut at 400 IPM, which my machine will do. Try that with bamboo and it's going to get ugly. Going to need a lot bigger machine for that.

The price tag can jump pretty quickly. Shifting to servos, ballscrews and industrial linear rails is a lot of cash, even if you scrounge the parts on eBay. And that's before an industrial, water-cooled spindle...

[Evil Twin]

You know what they say about learning to walk before you run...

[Bear]

You know what they say about learning to walk before you run...

But if you happen to find a 1.5m Class 3 ballscrew on eBay........ (still in my garage, rusting)

[Steve Manning]

Bit of an update ...... Most of the parts are cut, with the exception of the baffles. Getting into some of the detail stuff. Today was assembly of the stands.

Alignment blocks for the vertical aluminum tubing.



Marking hole locations for drilling and tapping.





Verticals bolted together.

[Evil Twin]

Clean and mean...


I have three test cabinets ready for sanding and routing on Saturday... low frequency test enclosures. late today I will setup the routers.

Since this is your thread, is this where I go to for confession, when I have sinned and bought more power tools?

It IS for a cause... the NatlieP Ultra. It is time to start those cabinets soon... some piece parts, such as front panels, are nearly complete.

[Steve Manning]

Clean and mean...


I have three test cabinets ready for sanding and routing on Saturday... low frequency test enclosures. late today I will setup the routers.

Since this is your thread, is this where I go to for confession, when I have sinned and bought more power tools?

It IS for a cause... the NatlieP Ultra. It is time to start those cabinets soon... some piece parts, such as front panels, are nearly complete.

It's actually Sven's thread .... I'm not sure he's ready for the an ET confession.

[Evil Twin]

It's actually Sven's thread .... I'm not sure he's ready for the an ET confession.

A very good point...

I retract the offer of penitence. It would seem out of place, regardless...


See my other recent posting for more clues... I have rationalized the purchase based on the requirements for three projects. I trust that will be sufficient...

[theSven]

The stands look great! I need to order the banana terminal posts next week. I’m gonna go with the Cardas that you shared with me since they are the longest.

[ergo]

I starts to feel like Steve & Evil Twin Enterprises is planning to reveal a full lineup of speakers soon If you keep such tempo up you'll put many players on market to shame with the R&D productivity.

[Steve Manning]

Starting to look like a pair of speakers ...... Just finished all the round overs on the ribs.





On to some baffles next ...... though it appears a calibration of the CNC stepper motors is required first, the calibration numbers from the manufacturer appear to be off.

[Steve Manning]

Nearing the end of the machining process ..... bamboo baffles have been cut.

[Evil Twin]

Only a few of us know the story and effort behind these baffles...

[theSven]

They look fantastic! Steve is a true engineer to work through issues for the completion of these baffles. Soon my spare time will be spent painting and assembling these Calliopes.

[Steve Manning]

Well with the sawdust part done, time for some solder and hot glue ...... crossovers under construction.

[Evil Twin]

This one is productive with the Force...

[theSven]

I just got the word that the parts are ready to pickup. I’m very excited and hope to get down next week to pick up the pieces from Steve. SMJ audio was fantastic to work with and I look forward to more project help from Steve and Jon.

[theSven]

I made it down to pick up the project from Steve now. I was able to get the spacers sanded and painted today. Tomorrow I hope to get some time to start preparing the ribs for sealing to paint.









The assembly document recommends binding these together for sanding. Worked out really well!



After sanding I gave them a good cleaning in soapy water and then a rub down with some alcohol.



Experimenting if more space was better, but it was easier when they were closer.



Lots of lean with the spacing :-(



I ended up switching to 1/4" wooden dowels. These worked out really well.





Going to let these spacers dry for two days and then will get the seal put on.

[Evil Twin]

Impressive progress!

[Steve Manning]

Where have a seen that setup before? Looking good Sven.

[theSven]

Steve, do you have a suggestion for where to buy the ML Campbell Agualente Plus Clear from? I only found one place in FL, Indian River Cabinet Supply. The rest of the places require a business to register and order.

How did you measure to get 1/16" from the edge with the seal? Or just getting it as close to the edge work well enough?

Time to go practice with the threaded inserts now.

[Steve Manning]

Steve, do you have a suggestion for where to buy the ML Campbell Agualente Plus Clear from? I only found one place in FL, Indian River Cabinet Supply. The rest of the places require a business to register and order.

How did you measure to get 1/16" from the edge with the seal? Or just getting it as close to the edge work well enough?

Time to go practice with the threaded inserts now.

For the gasket, it's ~1/16", so close enough. You don't want it flush to the outer edge. Once you've done a few spacers, you'll get a feel for it.

Now as to the finish ..... I'll send you an email.

[theSven]

Thanks Steve! Got all the threaded inserted except the 3/8 done today. I will finish those tomorrow and post some more photos. Those inserts are tricky. I practiced and few and the 1/4 inch were easier then the smaller ones. I also found using a bolt with washers to install the insert was more flush than the tool that comes with the inserts.

[Steve Manning]

Don't worry, after a few dozen, you start getting the hang of it. :W You might want to check out the Woodworking Advise thread as well, we've talked about different ways to install these inserts there.

[theSven]

Time Well Spent

All the free time I had this weekend went into the Calliope's. The build is progressing at a good pace thus far. I got the wood inserts completed, started the seals on the spacers, and got the stand spacers sanded/painted Saturday night/Sunday.





I found for the Bamboo that using a wrench and bolt with washer got the inserts in straight. I should have looked at Steve's post on the wood working sooner, but next time... Next Time!



I used epoxy with the inserts. I had a lot of that left over from a Sub enclosure I built. The two top panels and baffles



Close up of the top panel.



The back of the baffle.



The bottom of the last rib that sits above the bottom bamboo piece



The bottom of the top piece of the stand where the inserts go.



The stand top shelf part. Had some pull from these, but I don't think that is an issue since it will get sandwiched with the spacer and bottom piece.



I had a little pull on the rib bottom plate, but again I don't think that it is a problem as this is going to get tightened down with the rods and the bottom bamboo plate bolts into this one.





locking the spacers down for the stand to sand



The paint begins



The paint came out really good for the stand spacers, at least for my painting skills they did LOL



The cabinet spacers have dried for 2 days and are ready for the seals to be installed





One done and many, many more to go. The seals that Steve chose for this cabinet were super easy to work with. The material bends and each run on the outside and inside is one complete strip with no breaks. I used the tinting blade to cut the holes out where the seal covered.

[Steve Manning]

Nice progress Sven.

With regard to the puckering on the mdf I would recommend fixing it. The area you showed in the picture de-laminating, I'd fill with epoxy, as well as any others that have similar issues. Better now than when you have them finished and you pull out an insert due to additional a weak area. I'd also flatten out any raised areas. You would be amazed how much the smallest bump will telegraph through material, or prevent things from laying down flat. Use a large chisel if you have one .... this is what I use and it does a great job. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...SABEgInn_D_BwE

[theSven]

thanks for the feedback Steve. I got the inserts locked in now that way I can order the chisel plane to shave the mound and not damage the blade. I read the notes from the wood working to make sure the inserts are below the mound or risk damage to the blade...

[theSven]

Seal it good

This week was spent getting the seals put on the spacers. I managed to wrap that up on Thursday evening.





I still need to bore the holes out on many of the spacers. I only did a few :-) It's also hard to believe that there is almost 300' of that sealing tape on those spacers. I was wondering if I was going to make it. I have about 18" left out of the 3 rolls ordered.



I also got the epoxy on the ends now too. It has hardened up nicely

[theSven]

Binding Post Time

After work tonight I got the binding post pieces tightened up and tomorrow I will get the holes drilled to get that part complete.



In the process of getting the rods in. Then I realized, oh crap I should put the bolt up top otherwise I'm going to waste a lot of time winding the bold from top down versus bottom up.



Side view with the rods all in, but I have not tightened it down yet.



I'm not sure if you can tell from looking at this photo, but the ribs and spacers on the right have been tightened down, the left was next.



Secured and ready to get the plate fit.



First cabinet ready. Going to use some two sided tape to hold it in place while I mark the holes.



Lastly the other assembly and at the same stage to get the plate ready to mark the holes.

Other items of notes:

• Paint and primer has been delivered. I went with Target coatings for the primer, black, and clear.
• I ordered a 3 Stage Air Drying System for my air compressor. I found my HVLP guns I bought 15 years ago and never used yet.
• I also ordered the chisel plane to knock the mounds flush as suggested.
• Still planning my paint booth setup for the garage. I envision lots of plastic, box fans, and air filters...

[ergo]

Nice progress and starting to look very good.

When we did the OLA project we built up some temporary frame with shower curtains and all in the garage....

Bu last time visiting IKEA I saw that they have one or two models of these temporary wardrobes. Putting the speaker on a turntable inside that 'tent' and lighting it up externally should work pretty well.... so I have one waiting for the next project now. The white plastic cover should also act as a very nice diffuser for the lights. Just throwing it out there in case you find the idea appealing

[JonMarsh]

This week was spent getting the seals put on the spacers. I managed to wrap that up on Thursday evening.





I still need to bore the holes out on many of the spacers. I only did a few :-) It's also hard to believe that there is almost 300' of that sealing tape on those spacers. I was wondering if I was going to make it. I have about 18" left out of the 3 rolls ordered.



I also got the epoxy on the ends now too. It has hardened up nicely

DIY for a complex project definitely generates a lot of sweat equity! :T

[theSven]

Nice progress and starting to look very good.

When we did the OLA project we built up some temporary frame with shower curtains and all in the garage....

Bu last time visiting IKEA I saw that they have one or two models of these temporary wardrobes. Putting the speaker on a turntable inside that 'tent' and lighting it up externally should work pretty well.... so I have one waiting for the next project now. The white plastic cover should also act as a very nice diffuser for the lights. Just throwing it out there in case you find the idea appealing

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30154[/ATTACH]

Nice suggestion Ergo! I will have to see what I can find online here from Ikea. I envisioned a lot of plastic and some flood lights above. Steven Manning suggested ZipWall, and that looks enticing too.

[theSven]

Shaving, Bind Posts, Dry Assemble

This morning I started out shaving the mounds with the chisel plane. It was like slicing butter. Great suggestion Steve!



Bottom stand shaved



Top stand shaved



Cabinet second to bottom plate

Then came time to start the holes for the bind posts.



Holes are done and it's even :-)



Farther away shot. I used the Cardas bind posts. The Viborg that ET and Steve have recommended were not available on Amazon or anywhere else I could find back in Dec/Jan time frame when I ordered the parts to assemble the Calliope.



I had the hole at 5/8 to fit the 1/2 socket, but I realized this doesn't seem right. I messaged Steve and he got me on the right path again. I made the hole 1" diameter so there is space to attach the wires to the bind post when I get to that point.



All 4 holes drilled now for the bind post placard



The holes widened



Would loved to have had a drill press or a bench drill press, but I made a jig and used some clamps. I found the marple bits to be the easiest to bore in and not have tear out.



Alpha cabinet dry assembled. I have to get the remainder of the metal rods in so I can trim them.



Side view of Alpha



Top view of Alpha



The front profile. Looks like it is all lining up pretty good so far...



The back of Alpha



Alpha and Bravo



Alpha and Bravo with the front baffle pushed in. That is tomorrows adventure to work on getting that setup. Then I can tear down and start sanding to paint I think. Will have to double check the instructions tomorrow. The only other thing holding up painting is temperature where I'm at. I would like it to be around 20C at a min to shoot paint. Fingers crossed that Northern VA warms up next week...

[theSven]

DIY for a complex project definitely generates a lot of sweat equity! :T

I'm totally down for sweat equity. I wish it was an accepted currency.

[Steve Manning]

Moving along nicely Sven. Nice fix on the holes for the binding posts.

[theSven]

Alpha cut and capped

I managed to get a little more progress on Sunday. The majority of the time was spent cutting grass, edging sidewalks, trimming bushes, and spraying ant killer around the house perimeter outside. Phantom is awesome if you get ants. Anyhow things are progressing and Bravo cabinet should catch up tonight.



All the rods are in and I put two bolts on to make sure the threads would be OK after cutting. I like redundancy and like to avoid single points of failure when I can



I rotated the cabinet to lay face down for the cutting



First cut was with a hack saw. That was going to take to long. I needed something that would be more reasonable



5 minutes later the other 5 were cut and filed. All the rods thread the nut perfectly



Close up of the filing.



A learning lesson to make sure you keep space between the reciprocating saw and the spacer. I will have to touch the paint up on this.



The bottom plate now fits on perfectly!



Alpha is ready to get the front baffle installation now. It consists of getting 2 bars and 2 holes drilled to mount it. Bravo should be caught up by tonight if I don't have any work calls that drag into the evening. Then the next few days will be getting the front baffles ready for install. The days to paint time of the ribs is getting closer!

[theSven]

Sanding & Air Power

Progress is being made, but not as fast as I would like. Given weather temps, rain, and work schedule they just haven't aligned well. None the less I'm getting there. I'm at the point where I need to do the 320 grit sand on the MDF this weekend. Then wait for the remaining parts to come in for my air system to start painting.



I got the holes drilled for the bottom mount, and I have to say this was the hardest part of assembly so far for me. Mainly to try and figure out how to measure this and get it drilled.



Metal bars to secure the baffle cut and filed



Holes drilled and fit the bolt :-)





I thought it would be cool to share a photo of how it looked on the inside with the bars in.



One cabinet poly filled and sanded to 220 grit, and the other one to go.





Poly fill applied before sanding to 220 on the second cabinet. The sides are super smooth now!



Both cabinets sanded to 220 now. Also installed a new garage light so I have better light to work with.



I started to assemble an air dryer. This will be connected to my air compressor, and it gives me a good reason to finally plumb the tank in. Somehow I stumbled on a video about drying air while researching HVLP painting techniques. The idea of the dryer is to cool the air and allow the water to separate and drain to the bottom of the verticals. There is a valve at the end of each vertical to remove the water. The recommended length that I could find was 40' to 50' feet. That was dependent on one guy who was doing plasma cutting and the other who was painting.

Upcoming events on the Calliope are:

• Sand the cabinet MDF to 320
• Install new electrical cord and receptacle for the air compressor
• Plump in air filter and regulator
• Pressure test
• Practice spraying
• Paint!

[theSven]

Sanding Complete!

I got all the MDF sanded to 320 on Sunday, and also got the air dryer operational. I realized that I forgot to install the threaded inserts into the bottom of the stand that the feet will attach to. Those have been installed now too. I'm going to practice painting this week with the HVLP to prepare myself. My extent of spraying has only been latex in a pantry, and spray painting. I have to repaint the door to the garage, and paint some foam black. Those are my first two pieces to practice on.



Air compressor is plumbed into the air dryer. The copper is 3/4 and should be around 50' long. The air then goes through a filter system and regulator. I put a threaded cap on the top in case I decide to run an airline to the other side of the garage to the work bench.

[Steve Manning]

Very cool on the air dryer Sven .... looking forward to seeing some finish on these.

[theSven]

Painting the stands

The weather was perfect yesterday and I was able to spray some primer onto the stand parts. The EMTECH HSF5000 WB Primer/Surfacer/Filler was amazing to spray. The primer applied very nice and spraying it worked out very well too. I didn't get any runs either. I only had enough time to get one coat sprayed, but I think one more coat should do the trick. It did absorb into the sides as Steve told me it would.



The makeshift stand I came up with on the fly. Worked out pretty well.



Stand pieces that have been sprayed with 1st coat of primer



A poorly lit close up of the 1st primer coat after it dried.

I'm leaning towards getting all the coats of primer on before sanding with the 400 grit as there are no runs and the primer is very smooth. However I'm open for suggestions or knowledge to share on experiences.

The air dryer worked out great too with no moisture in the airline, or at least none that affected the primer. Hoping for more good weather this week to continue painting.

[Steve Manning]

That EMTech does go one nice doesn't it. So what did you do for a spray booth wall?

[theSven]

That EMTech does go one nice doesn't it. So what did you do for a spray booth wall?

I ended up using a fan and leaving the garage door open for now. I may end up hanging some plastic, but for now that worked really good! I haven't had much over spray that I notice on the wall too. Did you sand after each coat, or once you had all the primer coats applied?

[Steve Manning]

I typically give a lite sand between coats with either 400 or 600 grit.

[theSven]

Painting and Sanding

I spent the weekend painting and sanding with the great weather. I have one more coat of primer for the second cabinet and then it's time for to start spraying the black. I have become a big investor in paint pyramids, but found that I really lack shelving for this project in the garage.



After I coat one side I let it dry on my DIY shelf, then spray the other side. After the primer is dry I sanded the ribs with 600 grit per Steves recommendation. Then wipe the rib down with some denatured alcohol to get the dust off. The second coat of primer goes on beautiful and back to drying.



The first rack that I came up. The planks are for another project to replace the columns on my front entrance that rotted out. Luckily it's not a load bearing column, just decorative.



I needed a second shelf, but didn't have any more long planks, just short shelving boards. I have since taken over the dining room table with the stand pieces. I think the plan is to paint all of the cabinet black, then the stands. Otherwise I need to get some more paint pyramids and improvise on some additional shelves.

The air dryer has worked amazingly so far with all the painting. I drain it after I'm done cleaning the HVLP,and there is a fair bit of water blowout from the first valve. The other 3 valves have been dry so far. I can say that the air dryer was a good idea for painting.

One thing I'm not thrilled about is the size of the paint cans that Emtech (Target Coatings) uses. They don't fit the paint lid that I like to use that has a spout for pouring to avoid messes, and loss. The cans are larger so I have to hold the lid on to pour. Otherwise it is a great product, and Steve made an excellent recommendation on this primer.

[theSven]

Finished Painting

I was able to get all the painting done yesterday, and now I have to count the days till I can start assembling.



Luckily we only use this table when we have company so social distancing has helped me leverage space in the house for drying.



Card table with larger boards on top for the ribs. Some stand pieces below.



My other make shift shelf from the garage got moved inside for the bamboo pieces and the bottom of the stand. The bamboo got 2 coats of the clear, and the Emtech sprayed on the easiest out of the primer and the black. But to be fair it was also a lot thinner and I should have had a 2mm spray gun for the primer and black.