Jensen 1071 Build

[Steve Manning]

Side Cladding

While trimming boards to size early in the project I end up with a thin piece of baltic birch plywood that came in handy for laying out the curve for side cladding pieces ......





I ended up with a pretty good curve to follow on the band saw ....



Temporarily attached one of the sides to get a feel of how it would look ....

[sdl2112]

Nice Steve, how do you plan on finishing them...paint, veneer...?

[Steve Manning]

Nice Steve, how do you plan on finishing them...paint, veneer...?

Hey Scott ..... I'm going to be painting these, actually I'm having them painted by a guy I work with that does car restoration. Then a little bubinga trim around the bottom of the cabinet, something like the pictures I posted at the beginning of the thread.

Steve

[Steve Manning]

Starting the baffles

Getting things setup for the baffles to go in place....







Not as beefy as one of Jon's baffles but at 2" thick they still add some appreciable weight to the cabinets .......

[Steve Manning]

Trimming baffles

After trimming baffle to length ....





After flush trimming the baffle. Found that the attached vacuum hose did very little to catch the mdf dust since the bit extended so much lower than the bottom of the router. Had to open both garage doors and turn the leaf blower loose to clean up the mess ....

[sdl2112]

Hey Scott ..... I'm going to be painting these, actually I'm having them painted by a guy I work with that does car restoration. Then a little bubinga trim around the bottom of the cabinet, something like the pictures I posted at the beginning of the thread.

Steve

I'll be using rattle can spray paint...I have my fingers crossed. I've done a lot of research for surface preparation. It would be interesting to hear what technique your guy uses.

Your build is looking good :T

[Steve Manning]

I'll be using rattle can spray paint...I have my fingers crossed. I've done a lot of research for surface preparation. It would be interesting to hear what technique your guy uses.

Your build is looking good :T

I think he uses a compressor and spray gun, typical stuff for painting a car I guess. We have to get together and go over logistics and pick colors before we get started.

I have an Earlex sprayer that I have used to paint a tv stand that turned out pretty well, but I want to get the best finish I can and figured I'd use someone that does this at a more professional level then what I could do.

[diamondjoequimb]

Impressive cabinet construction!

[Steve Manning]

A duh moment

Went to put a 1/2" round over on a 1/2" thick board and come to the realization that there is no where for the guide bearing to sit on !! Had to make a template the same shape as side cladding to get around that.







Quick look on the cabinet to see how it looks ...

[JonMarsh]

That is a familiar sort of feeling- "Duh!" moments! Innovation is the key to recovery, and you've got yours well under control! :W

[Paul K.]

What you probably could have done was to use the same-shaped piece for the other side underneath the piece you wanted to round over, do that piece, then flip in over and round over the edge of the other piece. I've done exactly this before.
Paul

[Steve Manning]

What you probably could have done was to use the same-shaped piece for the other side underneath the piece you wanted to round over, do that piece, then flip in over and round over the edge of the other piece. I've done exactly this before.
Paul

Good idea Paul, I'll keep it in mind for the next time that I'm sure to to the same thing.

[Steve Manning]

Circles and more circles...

Continued with baffle work, had to get a larger Jasper jig for the woofer cutouts ....





Checking the fit of the drivers .....



All of the layers done ....

[Hank]

Very nice work, Steve. I'm liking that heavy duty workbench! Did you build it?

[Steve Manning]

Very nice work, Steve. I'm liking that heavy duty workbench! Did you build it?

Thanks Hank. Yes I did build the workbench, other than time, it cost me less than a third to do it myself rather than buy one. It's a big jump up from saw horses and plywood to build things on. A 4" thick top with 5" square legs tend to stay where you put it, which is handy when trying to put things together.

Steve

[Steve Manning]

Making a big mess ......

After getting the baffles glued up, I put an 1 1/4" round over on the edges ..... talk about making a major mess of the garage !!!







Even though I used the dust collector I apparently need to make some modifications to my dust collection setup on the router table!

[oneplustwo]

That's a ridiculously large round over bit! Probably worth more than my entire router setup!

[Steve Manning]

That's a ridiculously large round over bit! Probably worth more than my entire router setup!

Actually not too bad, $39 at http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ound_over.html they have pretty good prices and free shipping on everything.

[oneplustwo]

Hmm, I was thinking double that. Not bad at all. How many passes did you take to get to the final pass?

[JonMarsh]

Actually not too bad, $39 at http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ound_over.html they have pretty good prices and free shipping on everything.

MLCS is great, aren't they? I've got some of their big honkers, too, though the project idea I bought those for has been languishing a long time (line array's).


And unbelievably, I even found a pic (though not on my current Mac).



The woofer only assembly is:



Well, I'm already running out of places to put stuff like this... so... umm, ermm, well, never say never...

:rofl:

[Steve Manning]

Hmm, I was thinking double that. Not bad at all. How many passes did you take to get to the final pass?

I think I ended up doing about 4 or 5 passes. If I had a larger router I might have been able to do fewer but the slower approach seemed to pay off pretty well since the round overs turned out pretty smooth, and the router is still happy.

[Steve Manning]

MLCS is great, aren't they? I've got some of their big honkers, too, though the project idea I bought those for has been languishing a long time (line array's).


And unbelievably, I even found a pic (though not on my current Mac).



The woofer only assembly is:



Well, I'm already running out of places to put stuff like this... so... umm, ermm, well, never say never...

:rofl:

Yep, I love MLCS, I'm awaiting a few more bits to be delivered from them as we speak. Their prices are very reasonable and with their Katana line you have the option of buying a higher quality bit if you know your going to be using it a lot. I think what I like the most is the free shipping, buy one bit or ten, it's the same price ..... free.

Like the line array concept by the way. :T

[Hank]

+2 for MLCS I've bought all my bits from them for several years. Plus, I've got a few of these Merle clamps that I've used on many cabinet glue-ups:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...rle_clamp.html I've got a 1 1/4" roundover, but have yet to need such a large radius edge treatement.
Steve, I built my router table cabinet with a door to the router compartment that seals, and a 3" vac hose outlet on the back of that compartment - works great, along with a small hose outlet on my fence. With your skills, you could easily build and attach a door to your cab and add a hose outlet.
Jon: have you considered doing that line array as Open Baffle, similar to young John's project?

[sdl2112]

After getting the baffles glued up, I put an 1 1/4" round over on the edges ..... talk about making a major mess of the garage !!!

Those baffles are looking very nice Steve :T

[JonMarsh]

+2 for MLCS I've bought all my bits from them for several years. Plus, I've got a few of these Merle clamps that I've used on many cabinet glue-ups:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...rle_clamp.html I've got a 1 1/4" roundover, but have yet to need such a large radius edge treatement.
Steve, I built my router table cabinet with a door to the router compartment that seals, and a 3" vac hose outlet on the back of that compartment - works great, along with a small hose outlet on my fence. With your skills, you could easily build and attach a door to your cab and add a hose outlet.
Jon: have you considered doing that line array as Open Baffle, similar to young John's project?

That concept originated back in 2003 or so, and I actually had a bunch of MCM 6-1/2" carbon fiber mid woofers, which mostly measure sort of decent, but had an impedance bobble in a the midrange that upon investigation turned up to be a cone resonance.

Sure, dipole is possible, but opens up more worms and questions- like how dipole do you want it to be? where will one tolerate flare as you fall out of dipole operation going up in frequency?

since John IS doing this, takes the pressure off of me... :W

Not sure what midwoofer I'd use if I was to try this... would have to be something pretty clean, but just up to 1 kHz or so (600Hz crossover). But Geez, can you imagine what a half dozen Illuminators per side would cost!!??!? :E

ON the other hand, a built in, in the corners of my GF's family room would be interesting for HT... No BSC, position the height for seating to standing listening position... RS180's? NatalieP style crossover? Hmmmm... :yesnod:

[Steve Manning]

+2 for MLCS I've bought all my bits from them for several years. Plus, I've got a few of these Merle clamps that I've used on many cabinet glue-ups:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...rle_clamp.html I've got a 1 1/4" roundover, but have yet to need such a large radius edge treatement.
Steve, I built my router table cabinet with a door to the router compartment that seals, and a 3" vac hose outlet on the back of that compartment - works great, along with a small hose outlet on my fence. With your skills, you could easily build and attach a door to your cab and add a hose outlet.
Jon: have you considered doing that line array as Open Baffle, similar to young John's project?

Hank, Modifying the router table cabinet dust collection is now on the to-do list, along with a cyclone pre-stage for my dust collector that's been on the list. I have one of these http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11312 that I am thinking about attaching to the back of the cabinet with some quick disconnect clamps and then put in a tee with a smaller hose to the fence like your suggesting. What ever I do it has to go on and off quickey so I can change bits out easily.

[Steve Manning]

Those baffles are looking very nice Steve :T

Thanks Scott ...Can't wait to get them glued in place, but I'm making sure I get all the internal work done first so I don't arrive at another duh moment and discover there in the way.

[Steve Manning]

Another big mess

Another one of the big honking MLCS bits ......



This time put a bevel on the back side of the mid and bass holes ....







And then the sawdust clean up ... again.

[JonMarsh]

Serious progress continues! Got a notion when you'll be putting them together with drivers, or is the allocation of spare time too iffy this time of year?

[Steve Manning]

Serious progress continues! Got a notion when you'll be putting them together with drivers, or is the allocation of spare time too iffy this time of year?

Unfortunately the second of the two. I was out of town this past weekend for family commitments, though I did visit a killer lumber yard up in Pennsylvania and picked up some nice bubinga that I will be using to trim out the bottom of the cabinets. I have the better part of two weeks off work over xmas but I will be out north of Seattle for half of that visiting my family and the remainder in Maryland with my wife's family. Spending time with family is of course the important thing, but it's still going to kill me knowing I could be working on the project especially that things are starting to get some what close.

[Steve Manning]

Working on the crossover compartment

Framing the crossover compartment with baltic birch plywood ..... I figured I would have less of an issue with splitting once I screwed in threaded inserts.





You can also see the crossover board that will hold the parts and the holes for feeding wiring in and out of the compartment .....

[Steve Manning]

For Jon ..... "fiddly bits"

As Jon would call it, lots and lots of "fiddly bits". Between the baffles and the crossover compartment, 62 - 8/32" brass inserts ......







Checking the fit ... for a change I got the inserts where they were supposed to be. Now I have to order some black screws from McMaster-Carr to blend in with the drivers.

[sdl2112]

Looking good :T Plenty of room for the x-over I see...mine is going to be a little tight.

[JonMarsh]

I don't know why, but it seems to happen to everyone, me included, that space for the crossover is the last thing that gets attention and planning... which can really bite you in the butt later on!

[JonMarsh]

+2 for MLCS
Jon: have you considered doing that line array as Open Baffle, similar to young John's project?

Pretty much decided THESE will be the mid woofers, and it will be a corner system, monopole line array.





Very smooth SPL response, and very low distortion.





My apologies for the minor thread-jack!

[JonMarsh]

Working on the crossover compartment

Framing the crossover compartment with baltic birch plywood ..... I figured I would have less of an issue with splitting once I screwed in threaded inserts.





You can also see the crossover board that will hold the parts and the holes for feeding wiring in and out of the compartment .....

Nice job with the brass inserts- I've used those before, and as soft as they are, it's harder than you make it look!

[Steve Manning]

Nice job with the brass inserts- I've used those before, and as soft as they are, it's harder than you make it look!

Thanks Jon .... The baltic birch was really nice to work with putting in the inserts. I was sweating it when it came to do the ones for the mid's, there was not a lot of material to work with since the holes where so close to the edge and mdf just seems to crumble if you mess with it too much.

[Steve Manning]

Looking good :T Plenty of room for the x-over I see...mine is going to be a little tight.

The x-over board is roughly 10" X 16" with ~ 2.5" of height to work with when the cover is in place, so I should have plenty of room. Just trying to decide what to glue the components in with, since their hanging upside down I want to make sure they stay where I put them.

[Hank]

Pretty much decided THESE will be the mid woofers, and it will be a corner system, monopole line array.
Very smooth SPL response, and very low distortion.

Hmmm...don't recall seeing those in my travels - nice curve!
Corner system?

[JonMarsh]

Hmmm...don't recall seeing those in my travels - nice curve!
Corner system?

It's a way to optimize and remain compatible with her existing HT setup to replace the current mains, but improve clarity and bandwidth. And give me something to do with the RD50's. :B

yeah, she'll be getting a new subwoofer eventually (don't ask what she has now), but one step at a time... and this will leave things clear for trying out the big two channel setup in that room, too.

[CraigJ]

Hi Jon and sorry Steve for the continued hi jack,

Time for a little intervention;

Jon, Glad to hear that things are going very well with the :blonde: friend . But please, for the sake of the forum, don't ever mention that you'd like to build these for her (or yourself for that matter);

[JonMarsh]

Hi Jon and sorry Steve for the continued hi jack,

Time for a little intervention;

Jon, Glad to hear that things are going very well with the :blonde: friend . But please, for the sake of the forum, don't ever mention that you'd like to build these for her (or yourself for that matter);

Been there, done that, Hmmmm, about 14 years ago... all part of the learning curve! Sorry if I wasn't clear...

Those were my previous attempt at an Uber system- you know, the sort of thing I do about every decade and a half or so... :B

Usually the experience makes me acutely aware of my various limitations, yet does something intriguing, and sets a new benchmark of some sort. that was the case for these X1 Klones. Focal TC120 tweeters, Eton 7-360's (which amazingly you can STILL buy at Madisound! they've been around forever!) and Audax 13" and 15" pro woofers; monster drivers with huge magnets and fairly high sensitivity, but xmas, not so much. Made up for it with radiating area and a 6" port, like the original X1's.

I'm rather hoping that the current Isiris project will turn out a bit better, because I REALLY don't think I want to be building another monster system when I'm 75... but who knows? Maybe that would keep me young... or when I'd be ready for my third child hood?

[Hank]

We all have things from our past that should not be revisited. :roll:

[CraigJ]

Sorry if I wasn't clear...

Sorry, I was the one who was not clear and it was an attempt at poor humor. From may ailing memory, many years ago I thought you joked that your wife made you choose between the X1 clone or her, thus making her your ex. :W

[Steve Manning]

No problem on the little detour, it keeps the post going until the next round of pictures ..... Here's a question to you get you back on track. Since I'm putting the x-overs in a some what confined area, I'm toying with the idea of putting some breathing slots in the bottom cover for a little cooling. Do you guys think it's worth the effort? Here's a couple of pictures of the covers ....





Here's a rough layout of the components that will be going in the area.



Here's the wiring that will do the in's and out's ....