Mark's Statements Build Thread

[mlammert]

Well, I made some progress today...

Today was definitely a one step forward two steps back kind of day...

I miss measured while trimming my one front baffle and cut it too small by like a 1/16" of an inch... Way too noticeable for my taste; so I scrapped it...

Luckily I had enough 3/4" and 1/2" MDF left and just enough glue to glue up another baffle...

The second front baffle went much better...

These pictures show how I clamped the front baffle down to the speaker and then gently used the belt sander and the orbital sander to smooth it flush with the sides... I must say it came I darn near perfect...

More next...

[mlammert]

After I was happy with the edges of the baffle I then did my 45 degree angle on the front edge and my 1/8" rabbet on the back...

The first pictures shows the 45 degree bevel...

The second pictures shows a close up of the 45 degree bevel and the 1/8" rabbet at one of the corners...

The third picture (remember me having the one step forward two steps back day) shows the putty that is currently drying after my rabbeting bit decided to slip for some reason... :M

Thank goodness it did not come out of the router... 8O But, it did damage the side of the baffle... I have no clue how this happened...

I had some Durham's laying around (I love that stuff) so I mixed that up and the baffle should be good as new once it dries and I sand it down... The picture makes it look like quite a large area; but it is really only a couple inches...

So, tomorrow I will hopefully sand down the second baffle, sand down the repairs, and then route all the edges so that the two baffles are complete except for the driver cutouts...

Hopefully, if tomorrow goes better, I can also cut a few biscuit slots in the fronts and backs to aid in gluing things together when they are ready...

I need a "beverage"...

Mark

[David_D]

Looks great Mark!
How do you plan on releaveing the back of the mids?
Are you planning on using t-nuts, h-nuts, or wood screws?

[mlammert]

Thanks David!!!

Your kind words make me feel better after a very "trying" day...

Yes, I plan on using T-Nuts to secure the drivers... These are plentiful at the local big box store...

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by "releaveing the back of the mids"???

Please explain further...

Thanks,
Mark

[mlammert]

Also, here is a picture of one of the bags of insulation I bought for the insides of the speakers...

It was the only 2" thick insulation I could find at the local big box store...

Please let me know if this will NOT work and I can return it if necessary...

Thanks again guys!!!

Mark

[David_D]

Thanks David!!!

Your kind words make me feel better after a very "trying" day...

Yes, I plan on using T-Nuts to secure the drivers... These are plentiful at the local big box store...

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by "releaveing the back of the mids"???

Please explain further...

Thanks,
Mark

Jim & Curt recommend that the rear of the mid (behind the front baffle) is releaved to allow the mids to breath. A little difficult with the baffle glued on. They recommend at least a 1/2" chamfer on the rear of the front baffle. There have been a number of folks that use a knife/file/saw to scallop that edge around the nuts.
Here's an example of how I did mine...

[Hdale85]

Wow that looks clean! Would have been hard for me to do it like that because my baffles are not removable. I will probably get hex head screws with threaded inserts with a dab of epoxy or something.

[mlammert]

David, yes, I know exactly what you mean now...

My baffles are not yet glued to the speaker bodies yet (sorry if I gave that impression)... So, I will be using my 45 degree router bit to route the chamfer around the backs of all the speaker openings once they are cut out of the baffle...

I had actually already thought of doing the recessed holes for the t-nuts just like what is shown in your picture... Very nice looking by the way!!! :T

As Dougie said, I am also planning to do a little dab of glue or something on the t-nuts to help out...

Dougie, question: why would the baffles need to be removable in order to do what David shows??? It's been a long day; maybe I am not thinking this through all the way...

Mark

[Jim Holtz]

Also, here is a picture of one of the bags of insulation I bought for the insides of the speakers...

It was the only 2" thick insulation I could find at the local big box store...

Please let me know if this will NOT work and I can return it if necessary...

Thanks again guys!!!

Mark

Hi mark,

That looks like th 2" insulation that Home Depot carries and yes, it works fine. I used it on a build for some friends of mine. I would recommend it.

Jim

[mlammert]

Awesome, thanks Jim!!!

[impala454]

My baffles are not yet glued to the speaker bodies yet (sorry if I gave that impression)... So, I will be using my 45 degree router bit to route the chamfer around the backs of all the speaker openings once they are cut out of the baffle...

Mark, this is what I did and it also has the secondary effect of not trashing the entire speaker should you mess up on the baffle.

[mlammert]

I made some really good progress today...

I got the second front baffle cut and sanded and the 45 degree bevel routed and the 1/8" rabbet routed...

It came out very nice!!!

I also went ahead and cut biscuit slots in the fronts and backs of the speaker bodies and in the baffles and rear curves...

These came out very nice as well...

The first four pictures show the biscuit slots in all the pieces...

The last pictures shows all the parts!!! I just have to router the driver cutouts and assemble... :B

Mark

[mlammert]

I had some 1/4" plywood scrap laying around and remembered reading a post about one person who glued some to the inner sides of the speakers and got good results...

This person apparently made two sets of Statements and could tell a difference between the one with and without the plywood...

So, since I had it I decided to cut it into strips and will glue this to the side walls where the woofers are...

I am going to start laying out the crossovers as well tonight...

Mark

[Hdale85]

You really think you need even more bracing?

[mlammert]

Eh, I don't think I need more bracing, but it can't hurt...

I am currently working on laying out the crossover components...

First time ever doing this...

I got the hang of it I think... :P

Since my crossovers are going in external boxes where they will be visible I am trying to layout the components so that they look appealing to the eye...

Using a flowcharting tool on the Mac has helped me wrap my head around it...

I think what I will do is hot glue the components to the "floor" and then drill little holes in the "floor" to have the crossover component wire go though and then all the actual wiring will take place under the "floor" of the crossover box...

Will these crossovers produce heat??? I was thinking of topping the box with a sheet of plexi???

I should have enough veneer left to cover the outside of the boxes... And, I was going to paint the inside black to match the speakers...

Once I get a little more further into the process I will post some pictures of the mock-up and see what you guys think...

BTW, I will be out of town for a few days to DC on business, so if I don't touch base, that's why...

Thanks!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

I wanted to get this posted before I left...

Here is a picture of my proposed crossover layout...

I was going off of this page (http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm) for proper coil placement...

If anybody sees anything horribly wrong, please let me know...

I appreciate it!!!

Mark

[Hdale85]

Looks like a good layout to me. The crossovers will produce a bit of heat but not a lot in most cases.

[FroDaddy]

Since my crossovers are going in external boxes where they will be visible I am trying to layout the components so that they look appealing to the eye...

The sky is the limit how to place the components since you don't have space requirements. Electronics don't care how pretty they look, so keep that in mind. Many times crossovers look good on here because form follows function.

[Rbrockman]

If your crossovers will be visible, you may want to consider mounting the components on plexiglass or something similar. If you don't have a source for this, it is usually available at one of the home improvements stores.

On my last set of crossovers, the components were glued to the topside of a piece of 3/16" thick plexiglass plate. All wires were routed underneath the plate. The plexiglass plate had standoffs mounted underneath and these were used to attach it to the speakers as well as provide clearance for the wiring underneath. This works out to a very clean installation and visual appeal.

[skippyboy]

Just an idea but you could recess the crossover within a cavity in the base of the speakers, like a smaller dimensioned plinth which the speakers would stand on. It would make them sightly taller, but there out of sight. I have not read the whole build thread, it might have already been suggested.

[Hdale85]

Mark with my speakers it would need to be removable because the baffle has to be on before I cut the driver holes.

[mlammert]

Well, I was able to sneak off from my meetings and check up on the thread...

Thanks for all the comments guys!!! I appreciate it!!!

Based on various suggestions I am going to build a box with a plexi lid to house the crossover components... I will more than likely hide the wire under a false floor of sorts...

The sky is the limit how to place the components since you don't have space requirements.

I was mainly concerned with placement of the coils in this case... I know there are various distances you need to keep between the coils... That is why I placed them in the corners and then put all the other components in between the coils...

More when I get back home!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

Hey guys,

Quick question:

I have tried to do a ton of searches on the forum looking for pictures of Statement crossovers... I have been able to find zero...

Does anybody have any links to any threads or sites that have pictures of completed or in-progress Statement crossovers...

I have never built a crossover before and am beginning to feel the intimidation...

Thank you!!!

Mark

[FroDaddy]

I found these on my hard drive, they aren't mine though. I know one of the pictures is sefferdog's.

[mlammert]

Thanks for the pictures FroDaddy... I appreciate it...

Looks like my speaker wire and veneering supplies arrived while I was out of town... :B

I have a few miscellaneous odds and ends to work on with the speakers and I will then hopefully be cutting out the driver circles this weekend...

More soon...

Mark

[mlammert]

Here is some more progress pictures...

Here I am gluing the 1/4" plywood panels to the inside of the speaker sides...

You can see the makeshift clamping blocks I used...

I had enough clamps to put the plywood in one speaker... I will do the other one tomorrow...

I also sanded down the second baffle where I had dabbed some Durham's on previously...

More soon...

Mark

[David_D]

That's awesome Mark - - - No holds barred!

FYI: You may want to consider mounting your x-over componants to a piece of Black ABS plastic. Its cheap and has a haircell finish on one side. Here's an example.

[mlammert]

David, thank you SO much for posting those pictures!!! That is exactly what I am thinking of doing for mine... Awesome!!! :B

Just got into the office from being out of town and confirmed that my speaker wire and all the veneer and supplies were shipped... I must say Joe Woodworker really does a good job at packaging the materials and supplies...

I am in the home stretch now!!! :T

Thanks guys!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

Speaker Connection Question

Couple questions on making the actual speaker connections:

1) When I go to connect my speaker wire to the binding posts and the speaker terminals is it appropriate to use the connectors shown in picture one??? Something that I would get at a big box store or Radio Shack...

2) Is the wire schematic in picture two the correct way that I would connect all the speakers to the various terminals and binding posts???

Thanks guys!!!

Mark

[Hdale85]

I'm using the connectors this time around. Last time I didn't and I ended up ruining a tweeter although it was one of the D26's where they are all plastic. Either way I decided to use the connectors this time around at least until I get them completely finished and what not.

[impala454]

Mark, the mid has a smaller connector on the negative than it has on the positive, so just be sure you look at it before you get ready to assemble. Looks good on the wiring.

[mlammert]

Thanks Dougie and Chuck... I appreciate the input...

Okay, here is what I am sure is a really dumb question:

When mounting the drivers do people tend to have the speaker terminals face upward or does it really matter???

I am thinking of if there is going to be an issue with the connectors "vibrating" off the speaker terminals... Or, am I just WAY over thinking this... :P

Thanks!!!

Mark

[David_D]

I think your are over thinking a little. But, that said, I do use a set of pliers and collapse the female blade connection a little bit. To ensure there is a tight connection to the male blade. (did that come across OK?)

[Hdale85]

Yeah that's what I usually do if they aren't real tight. Just tighten them up a little.

[mlammert]

Cool... Makes total sense...

Thanks David and Dougie!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

The plywood "deadening" slabs worked great on the first speaker...

Last night I removed the clamps and glued the plywood slabs to the second speaker...

I also laid out the center points for all the drivers on the front baffles...

Need to do a little Durham's touch-up on the front baffles but all in all they turned out super nice!!!

This weekend I should have the driver cutouts complete and begin basic assembly... :B

Question:

Are there any tips/tricks I should be aware of for when I measure the "thickness" of the driver recesses on the front baffles???

Thanks guys,
Mark

[David_D]

I use a dial caliper. Don't forget the gasketing thickness. Pretty straight forward. Scrape piece may be in order.

[mlammert]

Thanks David!!!

What kind of gasketing material is typically recommended??? Is there a certain type I can buy at a big box store???

Thanks,
Mark

[Hdale85]

I think most use the weather strip foam stuff from like HD. Just get the thinnest stuff you can get I suppose?

[David_D]

This may be right, wrong, or indifferent but personally, I use 1/16" black rubber. Mainly so I can predict the compression for figuring the recess depth.

[ahaik]

I like to use Speaker Rubber Gusket from PE. I apply it to the cabinet.

[Ray Collins]

I use closed cell weather stripping from HD. Available in several widths. It compresses to nearly nothing.

Ray

[mlammert]

Thanks for the info guys!!!

This is the weather stripping I got at the big box store...

It says it is 100% water and weather-proof; so I assume it is of the "closed cell" type... No weather seal there had any indication of "closed" or "open cell"...

If someone wouldn't mind commenting and letting me know if this is good or if I need to return it... I would greatly appreciate it...

Tomorrow is the big day; cutting the driver cut outs!!!

More to come...

Mark

[Jim Holtz]

That should work fine Mark.

Jim

[Ray Collins]

That's it. Now, get back on your knees when you cut those holes...

Ray