Power Conditioner and Classe Amp

[spykids777]

Hi,

I have Classe CA5300 and 2 CAM 600 amplifiers and the SSP-800. I have noticed that depending upon the type of music or movie that I am watching my blue LED lights on the Amp start blinking (not blue and red). Currently I have them hooked to a Panamax 5100 power conditioner. Do I need to switch to a better conditioner? Any recommendations? How about Shunyata Hydra Talos? Would I be damaging the amp if the lights are blinking? The Volt on the conditioner usually reads 108-110 at the time it is blinking. ALso all the outlets on the Panamax are being used at this time.

Thanks.

[beden1]

Classe told me that they prefer to have their amps plugged directly into the wall sockets. Your Panamax is causing a bottleneck in the power supply.

[spykids777]

Thanks for your reply. What do I do if I do not have enough power outlets at the place where my amps are located? Any other options?

[beden1]

Thanks for your reply. What do I do if I do not have enough power outlets at the place where my amps are located? Any other options?

I had an electrician run two dedicated 20 amp lines to my system which gave me four outlets to plug my amps into. That is probably your best solution as well, particularly since your amps are power hungry.

I plug everything else into a Richard Gray or a Furman Reference center which are plugged into a different circuit (the one that was originally there).

[bigburner]

I had an electrician run one dedicated 20 amp line which gives me more than enough power for my system. However, don't forget that in New Zealand we get 230 volts which gives me twice the watts of many other countries.

Nigel.

[htsteve]

Spykids777,

Some good options to consider:

* I agree with the others. Long term, dedicated circuits (preferably 20 amp) are the best solution for current capability.

* I would not plug your Classe's into the Panamax. They're simply not built to handle that. For now, I would plug them into the wall.

* As for other option in power conditioners, you've looked at one good one. Plus a couple of other good ones have been suggested. I use Transparent power conditioners. For a long time, I had my McIntosh amps directly into the wall. Transparent finally convinced me to plug the amps into their conditioners (which I already had for everything else). They work very well. No current limiting that I can tell, plus the surge/filtering benefits of a conditioner.


hope this helps.

[wettou]

I had an electrician run one dedicated 20 amp line which gives me more than enough power for my system. However, don't forget that in New Zealand we get 230 volts which gives me twice the watts of many other countries.

Nigel.

Yes that's the way to go straight from the wall :T

Power conditioner are the biggest rip off after cables, read the pro-press and look at the margins........

[Glen B]

Post deleted by author.

[spykids777]

I am planning on getting 2x 20amp electrical outlets put in. Don't I still need a Surge protector / powerconditioner? What about protecting the amps against any potential power surges? Can I just use a Panamax or should I still invest in the more exp ones like Shunyata if I have. Dedicated 20amp line to share among the 3 amps?

Thanks

[Srrndhound]

I am planning on getting 2x 20amp electrical outlets put in. Don't I still need a Surge protector / powerconditioner? What about protecting the amps against any potential power surges? Can I just use a Panamax or should I still invest in the more exp ones like Shunyata if I have. Dedicated 20amp line to share among the 3 amps?

You definitely want surge protection. It works best to start in the load center (breaker panel). While the new dedicated lines are being installed, have one of these included. There are similar devices from various makers depending on the panel being used.

If you are very concerned, additional protection can be provided right inside the new 20A duplex wall outlet, such as these from Leviton.

[beden1]

I am planning on getting 2x 20amp electrical outlets put in. Don't I still need a Surge protector / powerconditioner? What about protecting the amps against any potential power surges? Can I just use a Panamax or should I still invest in the more exp ones like Shunyata if I have. Dedicated 20amp line to share among the 3 amps?

Thanks

Both Classe and Marantz told me that their amps have sufficient protection built in so you DO NOT need to waste money on power surge protectors for your amps. They told me to plug the amps directly into the wall.

May I suggest that you call Classe directly and ask them yourself!

[Srrndhound]

Both Classe and Marantz told me that their amps have sufficient protection built in...

Sufficient may be a matter of interpretation. If someone does confirm with Classe that they have surge protection, please ask what structural form that takes.

While it does not bear directly on the newer models Spykids is discussing, I have the older CA201 and CAV150 and based on the schematics those models have no surge protectors, i.e., MOVs, in them, and that's about all that will begin to address lightning induced surges.

[beden1]

Sufficient may be a matter of interpretation. If someone does confirm with Classe that they have surge protection, please ask what structural form that takes.

While it does not bear directly on the newer models Spykids is discussing, I have the older CA201 and CAV150 and based on the schematics those models have no surge protectors, i.e., MOVs, in them, and that's about all that will begin to address lightning induced surges.

Classe told me that my CAV150 should be plugged directly into the wall socket as well as my pair of CAM-350s.

[Glen B]

I have the older CA201 and CAV150 and based on the schematics those models have no surge protectors, i.e., MOVs, in them, and that's about all that will begin to address lightning induced surges.

The CAV-150 and CA-201 both have a tiny varistor across the incoming AC line hot and neutral. I would not put much faith in these as my sole source of surge protection.

[Srrndhound]

The CAV-150 and CA-201 both have a tiny varistor across the incoming AC line hot and neutral. I would not put much faith in these as my sole source of surge protection.

I think that is a fair assessment. Apparently Classe does not think it of much value, either. The service manual mentions this when changing to another line voltage:

>>Replace the varistor, according to new line voltage, following Classe’s recommendations. If varistor is not available, remove old varistor and leave it empty.<<

Wikipedia explains: >>A varistor remains non-conductive as a shunt-mode device during normal operation when the voltage across it remains well below its "clamping voltage", so varistors are typically used to suppress line voltage surges. However, a varistor may not be able to successfully limit a very large surge from an event such as a lightning strike where the energy involved is many orders of magnitude greater than it can handle.

A typical surge protector power strip is built using MOVs. A cheapest kind may use just one varistor, from hot (live, active) to neutral. A better protector would contain at least three varistors; one across each of the three pairs of conductors (hot-neutral, hot-ground, neutral-ground).<<

With whole-house surge protection so cheap, and living in an area where we get regular lightning, it was not much of a question. And I still run all the low-power gear on an APC UPS. DVRs hate short power drops.

[Srrndhound]

Classe told me that my CAV150 should be plugged directly into the wall socket as well as my pair of CAM-350s.

I have all my amps plugged straight into the wall outlets. That is good advice.

The kind of service entrance protection I am advocating puts nothing in series with the line. Purely shunt.

[RebelMan]

Classe' does advocate plugging their amplifiers into a direct feed (outlet) and any good amplifier will have some form of built-in protection. Classe's biggest concern with conditioning and suppression devices is that they are current limiting, which can pose a greater problem than sporadic brown-outs/black-outs and surges. That said some form of additional protection maybe necessary for less than typical situations, i.e., you live where voltage irregularities are common place.

As for me I have a dedicate 20A circuit with a common ground that fuels my entire A/V system and I plug directly into it. I also see prudence in having whole house protection too. It's my first line of defense.