Finished Table Saw Outfeed extension

[Renron]

I finally got tired of using the decent, but PITA, rollers that slide up and down to catch large ripped projects on the Table Saw. I was looking for Ideas on an extension table that would move with my saw. It's on a moveable platform so I can put it in the driveway when it's time to use my '65 Delta Unisaw.
I found a plan that I liked and I am so impressed with it that I want to share it with my friends here. So Here is the PDF link and a Picture of my version completed. It came out fantastic! I couldn't be happier.

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/building-outfeed-table-mount-table-stand-support/

Ron

[JonMarsh]

Looks very nice, Ron... now, do you keep it out on display like that in your driveway, where the whole neighborhood can appreciate your craftsmanship, or do you tuck that away in the garage or a woodshed somewhere? And just how often do you move that Unisaw around- I know how much they weigh! And they are NOT a portable saw... not sure they even fit the military definition of mobile...

[Steve Manning]

Very nice Ron ..... I'm using the roller route.

[JoeAngelicchio]

I like that!!

[Renron]

Jon,
I'm thinking of building Tank Tracks for it. LOL
Thanks all for the compliments, Steve this project has your name all over it!
It's on a wheeled base that moves 2 wheels up/down and locks so it is stable when in use. It's really not bad to move around, in fact it's much easier to move and set up than my previous saw a Bosch 10" portable with stand. I never have to lift my unisaw. Couldn't if I wanted to.
Put it in the back of the truck portable ? Nope. But it does move easily in and out of the garage and the 3HP motor is almost enough power.
I built a crosscut sled for it and have found it invaluable, all the cuts for the extension were made on the tablesaw. Crosscut sleds need to be PERFECT, so when someone builds one take your time. Make a dial runout gauge, ($10 Ebay) that fits the bevel groove and adjust the table to the blade, then the fence to the table, then the crosscut sled to the table. My homemade Biesemeyer fence is accurate to .002 in 30". If anyone wants the PDF on how to make a fantastic fence, I'll post it here too.

Ron

[JonMarsh]

That's definitely the way to do it; if you take the time to setup the saw, you can get good result even with a Ryobi/Craftsman Franken-Saw, such as the Isiris were built on. (well, all the big cuts; then the intricate stuff was done on the DWS780.)

What you say about mobility makes a lot of sense, but I couldn't see the wheels in the picture you posted... :W

[Steve Manning]

Jon,
I'm thinking of building Tank Tracks for it. LOL
Thanks all for the compliments, Steve this project has your name all over it!
It's on a wheeled base that moves 2 wheels up/down and locks so it is stable when in use. It's really not bad to move around, in fact it's much easier to move and set up than my previous saw a Bosch 10" portable with stand. I never have to lift my unisaw. Couldn't if I wanted to.
Put it in the back of the truck portable ? Nope. But it does move easily in and out of the garage and the 3HP motor is almost enough power.
I built a crosscut sled for it and have found it invaluable, all the cuts for the extension were made on the tablesaw. Crosscut sleds need to be PERFECT, so when someone builds one take your time. Make a dial runout gauge, ($10 Ebay) that fits the bevel groove and adjust the table to the blade, then the fence to the table, then the crosscut sled to the table. My homemade Biesemeyer fence is accurate to .002 in 30". If anyone wants the PDF on how to make a fantastic fence, I'll post it here too.

Ron

I jealous Ron ...... even older model Unisaws are very nice. With the mods you've done you should be set. Are those sun lamps you've got going for the outside picture ...... I figured with all that nasty weather you guys have been having, the real stuff was in short supply.

[Freddo]

Hello Ron,

Any chance you could post that Biesemeyer fence pdf?

Thanks.

[Renron]

Jon,
The table saw base is mobile. Purchased from WoodCraft for ~ $50 on sale. I need to rebuild it with stronger supports. That saw is now Heavy Duty!
Mobile base can be built to any size needed.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/152711/woodriver-universal-mobile-base-hardware-kit.aspx

Freddo,
Your wish is my command. If you have any questions about building this I'll be happy to help answer them. Either PM or start a new thread.
Ah bummer, I tried to upload it but it's too large per the forum's rules. Tried to compress it too. No go. But! I've saved it just in case the link goes down or fails to load properly for someone. BTW, the prices are no longer current. I had never welded anything before this project, I purchased an el cheapo Harbor Freight 220V flux core welder and did EXTENSIVE mods to it, specifically for this fence project. Turns out I can weld.....sort of....
So here's the link to the T Square Fence DIY build. It's an Awesome fence that's rock solid!

http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/PDF%20Files/tsquarefence.pdf

Ron

[Steve Manning]

I have that mobile base for my band saw, works great.

[---k---]

Very nice. Looks rock solid.

[Freddo]

Ron,

A huge thank you!

[TEK]

Thanks Ron, good info!
Looks interesting. My new Harvey saw is currently on a boat slowley sailing towards Norway.... When the saw is installed I assume this will be something I would like as well.

So, this might be a project in my not so far future :-)

[Renron]

Your welcome guys.
I have used the outfeed table several times since I posted the photo. Simply the safety factor was worth the labor and parts to build this, my rips are better too now that I don't have to try to hold the end piece from lifting up near the saw blade at the end of the rip. Folds down easily and takes less than a minute to set up / take down.

Note; I used only one piece of melamine and this thing is HEAVY. Official plans call for 2 sheets. Sheesh! I used Birch hardwood for the trim to stabilize the sheet of melamine. Both sides of the melamine are covered in Formica. If you build one of these fantastic mods make sure you seal both sides to prevent warping. Mine came with melamine on both sides.
Ron

[TEK]

Ron, this have been in use quite some time now. Any long time usage experience you would like to share?

[Renron]

Just used it yesterday to rip a full sheet of plywood. The entire out-feed table has performed perfectly. But it is heavy. No warping, twisting or any issues at all. White is bright in the sunlight thou. Dark green would be nice and easier in the sunlight. I wouldn't change anything other than the color of the top. Use a hard wood without knots to prevent twisting. Did I mention this is heavy??? LOL.
Hope you and you beautiful family are well TEK.
Ron

[Steve Manning]

Just used it yesterday to rip a full sheet of plywood. The entire out-feed table has performed perfectly. But it is heavy. No warping, twisting or any issues at all. White is bright in the sunlight thou. Dark green would be nice and easier in the sunlight. I wouldn't change anything other than the color of the top. Use a hard wood without knots to prevent twisting. Did I mention this is heavy??? LOL.
Hope you and you beautiful family are well TEK.
Ron

They have safety/sunglasses ..... take care of that bright white top no problem.:sn

[TEK]

Everything is very well over here - far away from any hurricanes!
I have started building a outfeed table after the same design. However, I figured out that it was way easier - and actually cheaper - to just drop by ikea and buy a laminated kitchen top instead of laminating myself. So I will use that as my plate. Except from that I will follow the same design.
I will see if I can post some pictures from the process (if I get it to work that is...).

[JonMarsh]

That will be interesting to see, TEK. All of this shop kind of stuff is totally on hold for me for probably another two years... all I can do is watch what you guys are up to and take notes...

that and delete the tempting ads from Rockler, Woodcraft, and Woodpecker!

[Renron]

TEK,

I look forward to your improvements when you build your outfeed table. I know you will make it better!

I built this router table (designed the lift mechanism myself) (humble.....)
I bought an old kitchen table from the 1950's and used the table for the top. It lifts off to access the router carriage. The handle below lifts / lowers the bit. It has a harbor freight variable speed router adjustment underneath so I don't burn the wood with the bit. Slower for plywood and hardwoods. Drawers hold parts / bits / wrenches. Cabinet underneath holds a few Jigs and the big plunge router.
Red button is twist out to turn on , push to turn off. Just like my table saw, I can turn it off with my thigh or knee, never having to look for the off switch is a safety feature. Works great and with a vacuum hose behind the mouse hole it sucks in all the dust from the router bit. Works great. I'm happy.

Ron

[CraigJ]

All of this shop kind of stuff is totally on hold for me for probably another two years... all I can do is watch what you guys are up to and take notes...

Hi Jon,

That wasn't quite what we were hoping to hear and are wishing the delay isn't nearly that long. I was thinking of you while driving across South Dakota from Glacier National Park last weekend. While glancing in the rearview mirror, I noticed two super cool sporty cars gaining on me. My son didn't get the best picture for you as they were going over 90 mph, but you get the idea and they were from California.



Enjoy the new to you FJ.

Craig

[Steve Manning]

TEK,
I look forward to your improvements when you build your outfeed table. I know you will make it better!

I built this router table (designed the lift mechanism myself) (humble.....)
I bought an old kitchen table from the 1950's and used the table for the top. It lifts off to access the router carriage. The handle below lifts / lowers the bit. It has a harbor freight variable speed router adjustment underneath so I don't burn the wood with the bit. Slower for plywood and hardwoods. Drawers hold parts / bits / wrenches. Cabinet underneath holds a few Jigs and the big plunge router.
Red button is twist out to turn on , push to turn off. Just like my table saw, I can turn it off with my thigh or knee, never having to look for the off switch is a safety feature. Works great and with a vacuum hose behind the mouse hole it sucks in all the dust from the router bit. Works great. I'm happy.

Ron

Very nice Ron ..... I cheated, with the exception of the base cabinet, I bought parts off the shelf. The family pitched in for my birthday this year and I upgraded to a larger router and lift.

[Steve Manning]

TEK one suggestion ..... if you plan on using a crosscut sled with the new out feed table, you might want to consider carrying the miter slots across the entire out feed table.

[TEK]

Steve: thats a good tip. I'm using my sled quite often. My current sled is not that deep, so I'm not to sure it is needed. However, I do se myself upgrade to a wider sled in the future so I think I will follow your advice.

I' thinking that it might be a bad idea to have the tracks show/open up the inside of the toå - so I'm wondering if I should fell down some hardwood in the top and them make the tracks inside the hardwood instead of just right into the top.
Any thoughts?

[TEK]

TEK,
I look forward to your improvements when you build your outfeed table. I know you will make it better!

I built this router table (designed the lift mechanism myself) (humble.....)
I bought an old kitchen table from the 1950's and used the table for the top. It lifts off to access the router carriage. The handle below lifts / lowers the bit. It has a harbor freight variable speed router adjustment underneath so I don't burn the wood with the bit. Slower for plywood and hardwoods. Drawers hold parts / bits / wrenches. Cabinet underneath holds a few Jigs and the big plunge router.
Red button is twist out to turn on , push to turn off. Just like my table saw, I can turn it off with my thigh or knee, never having to look for the off switch is a safety feature. Works great and with a vacuum hose behind the mouse hole it sucks in all the dust from the router bit. Works great. I'm happy.

Ron

Thats really noce Ron.
Actually, my router table build (http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...l=1#post600081) is what caused me to NOT go for a laminated top on the outfeed table. I tried to make a laminated top for the router table and failed totally. I was just not able to get the contact glue spread evenly out on the two surfaces. It was just way to thick. Probably wrong type of glue. That and the fact that the
top sheet cost as mutch as a whole table top (63cm x 186cm) made the decition.

About the router table - still no drawers, but I have connected dust extraction both above and below the table. Working really good!

[TEK]

Build in progress...

Gluing up the pice that attach to the saw


Test fitting


Making the sides



Getting closer...
(still have the expandable leg as well as tracks and finishing left)

[TEK]

Building the table top mount for the dowtail leg.
Using screws and no glue to mount this as I would like to be able to replace it if the mount get worn out.
I guess the next will be to donthe dowtail lrg itself.

[Renron]

Wow,
You do move fast when you decide to take on a project. On the drop down leg or downtail as you call it, anchor / fit / end it back onto the base of the table saw and not just a drop down 90 degree like a table leg. You want it to angle back to the saw base because that way it is always exactly the same and you will have a flat even surface for the run out table. I first tried to to use an adjustable 90* leg that sat on the concrete but that was always just a little off and not as stable as it is now.

I too tried to make my own formica top with contact cement. I also failed miserably, not flat, bubbles / dirt . Ended up in the garbage. Thats why I bought an old kitchen table from the 1950s. Built beyond strong and very thick Formica super smooth and very flat.

Steve, it's not cheating , it's being smart. I'm too cheap to buy a real router lift. Drop in a picture for us poor folks who live on the other side of the tracks.

Jon, Your time is coming, don't rush it. It wasn't that long ago that you were in your 40s. Time flies when your building fun stuff. Keep it under 100 mph.
Ron

Oh, almost forgot. About those tracks a cross cut sled rides in. I did not cut into the table for my "runners". I've found that I don't put the table in the "up" position when I'm using the Cross cut sled. No need to cross cut anything deeper than my sled is deep. My sled is 25 1/2" deep. Measure from the blade to the front edge of the table saw, double that number and subtract an inch or so. If the sled is any deeper than this it wobbles and won't sit flat on the table if you don't support the end hanging off the saw. How often do you plan on Cross cutting stuff wider than 24"???

I've not found the need to yet. Usually it's 1x2 or 1x4 I cut with the sled. Your needs may be different, but this has been my experience.

[TEK]

Hmm, thanks for the input Ron. Good point on the foot - I have been a bit both ways on that but decided to go with the originally design as I sispected that there could be some issues with just a foot.

I will follow you tip and hold off making tracks in the top itself for now.
After some usage I can add tracks later on if I find it nessesarly (not that easy to remove them ;-))

[Steve Manning]

Steve, it's not cheating , it's being smart. I'm too cheap to buy a real router lift. Drop in a picture for us poor folks who live on the other side of the tracks.


Oh, almost forgot. About those tracks a cross cut sled rides in. I did not cut into the table for my "runners". I've found that I don't put the table in the "up" position when I'm using the Cross cut sled. No need to cross cut anything deeper than my sled is deep. My sled is 25 1/2" deep. Measure from the blade to the front edge of the table saw, double that number and subtract an inch or so. If the sled is any deeper than this it wobbles and won't sit flat on the table if you don't support the end hanging off the saw. How often do you plan on Cross cutting stuff wider than 24"???

I will get you some picture next time I pull it out ....

As for the tracks, I keep forgetting that the saw I have is not as deep as many out there ..... like your Delta. So to be able to get a good crosscut depth and not have the sled drop off the back side (why I built a new one) I use it with the out feed these days.

[JonMarsh]

Hi Jon,

That wasn't quite what we were hoping to hear and are wishing the delay isn't nearly that long. I was thinking of you while driving across South Dakota from Glacier National Park last weekend. While glancing in the rearview mirror, I noticed two super cool sporty cars gaining on me. My son didn't get the best picture for you as they were going over 90 mph, but you get the idea and they were from California.



Enjoy the new to you FJ.

Craig

You're just bringing up another deferred gratification issue, as my very similar garage queen gets no attention at all!

This last time I was up in Idaho I saw three Teslas.... two had CA plates. This included driving over to the Eastern side of the state again. One was a local.

Where I live now, I can't avoid seeing three Teslas or more just going out for a sub or Starbucks, or to the grocery store. Stark difference.

Hope you had a great time in South Dakota... it's certainly that time of the year for road trips! One of my colleagues from work, who lives in Toronto, just came through the area while on a ten day trip with his college age son- just roaming around looking at stuff, basically.

Now, if you'd been in Northern Nevada, those NSX's would have just been keeping up with the traffic flow, given the limit is 80 and every one does at least 10 over out in the boonies.... :W

[TEK]

Not mutch time yesterday, but got the stock attached to the saw and the runners made.
Measured and marked them and then made the cuts using the saw and a slead (the slead, as a lot of my other stuff was made in a hurry at a time when I needed it - so it looks - and are - a piece of scrap put together. But it does the trick. I am however a bit ashame of it when looking at Ron's sledops
As it was a very short track Indid not bother to but on a dado blade set - worked fine using several oasses with the slead.
Finally I used a chiesel to even out the marks in the bottom after the saw-blade.

[Renron]

Pretty piece of wood TEK, What kind is it?
Ron

[TEK]

That is birch. I got quite a bit of it a couple of years ago for almost nothing.
But this piece is quite a bit darker and with a lot more figured than most of the other pices. I did not notice before I ripped it - if I had I might have saved it for some special usage in the future. Will be more aware of individual differences in the wood from now on.

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?43186-Building-Workbenches&p=612591&viewfull=1#post612591

(And no, still haven't buildt the bench - it keeps popping up other projects that have to be done first, like this one. If I shall build a bench I better gave a outfeed table before starting ripping planks - right?
But in no way is the bench project forgotten - it is just awaiting its turn :-)
No I'm starting to wonder if I will have enough birch left ;-)

[Renron]

I don't ever recall seeing Birch that dark before, very nice. It will really POP when you seal it. I used straight De Waxed Shellac on my build.
Looking forward to seeing more pictures as you progress.
Ron

[TEK]

OK, here it is - almost ready - but since I feel that it might be some time before I get the final finish done (rounding corners, sanding and applying finish) I post my current state now.

The outfeed table is completed.
Thanks to Ron for sharing his and beeing the source of inspiration for my build :smootch:

I have followed the original design, except that I'm no fan of metallic locks - so I made the locks in wood instead (walnut).
In the start I was a bit sceptical as the dowtail did not slide very well, but after a coat of liberon finish oil followed by a coat of Johnson wax (thanks again Ron!) it is sliding trough as it was made for sliding - and it was :W

I also had to offset the dowtail a bit to one side because it would otherwise interfer with the electrical connector on the saw.

[Renron]

Clap, Clap, Clap. That looks fantastic TEK. Excellent work as always and I'm sure it functions perfectly. I really like your wooden lock. I may just copy your design.
I'm happy your using the wax, it's time for me to do the same again to my table saw. (I'm almost far enough along on my current project to share pictures, thou it's not audio related)
Congratulations on another project completed. Thanks for the pictures.
Ron

[Steve Manning]

Very nice TEK ..... your making those of us that buy our hardware at the hardware store look bad, very cool on the sliding latches. :T

[ergo]

Great job TEK. Looks very nice. One could present this level of quality inside house easily as it sure does look nice enough

My next project is also a sled for the saw and an outfeed table too. I have the DeWalt DWE7491 jobsite saw, so the design will have to differ.... but there are some ideas in mind already that will use some CNC-d parts as well.

Maybe we should start a "Shop talk" type of thread for various workshop projects as these start to be a very nice category of their own.

[TEK]

I'm game!

[Renron]

I'll help out too. Sounds good.
Ron