Statement II System

[Heli-Tim]

Hi everyone! My name is Tim, and I am a Newfoundlander!

I have been reading HTguide for a while, and recently decided to sign up.

I am very familiar with electronics and woodworking. I also play a wide assortment of musical instruments. Professionally I work as an Avionics AME (aircraft electrical / electronics), and decided to combine my education/ skill set with my love of music. I will be building a pair of Statement II's.

I am at the beginning of a learning curve with home audio hi fi systems, and was wondering if anybody who has built this system can recommend or talk about their choice of system components and how they compliment the speakers.

I have a sound(yup, I went there) understanding of electronics, but am lacking experience in the selection of audio components(amps, preamp, mixers, converters, etc). The only experience I have was picking out my beautiful Marshall JCM 900 and half stack cabinet 8 years ago

Thanks, and I look forward to your comments/ suggestions!

[BobEllis]

Welcome, Tim, from a half Newfoundlander. My paternal grandparents emigrated to the U.S. In the 1920s.

The entire statement series will be able to take advantage of good quality electronics. Without knowing your electronics budget or listening habits, I'll suggest you go with separates, at least 150WPC. I don't have experience with them, but many here swear by the Emotiva brand for performance and value.

Don't forget good source equipment. I'm using an Oppo BDP-103's variable analog outputs to directly drive my DIY amps. I'm very happy with it, but when I finish my Wavecor Ardents I'm going to explore DAC options, probably with a DIY preamp.

My focus is 2 channel streaming (purchased and ripped CDs and high res downloads) with some movies and TV watching. I have my cable box connected to the Oppo's rear HDMI input. That is plenty of inputs for me. Your system may require more inputs/flexibility so you may want a pre/pro or a good receiver with preamp outputs.

If you give us your budget and system goals I'm sure others will chime in. Are you looking to build a 2 or 2.1 channel music system, a dedicated HT or somewhere in between? What are your musical tastes? Chamber music and jazz generally require somewhat less power than symphonic works. Rock recordings need a fair amount of power but are usually so compressed that they don't meet the headroom of classical recordings. That said, more power than needed ever hurts the sound given a decent amp.

Be sure to document your build with pictures and you'll have lots of help available along the way. First bit of build advice: use cabinet grade Baltic Birch if you can afford it. I'm a recent convert from MDF. BB is so much nicer to work with. The alternate acronyms for MDF tell you why. One I can use in polite company is More Dust Forever. Yes, you never get rid of the dust. It's always on every surface anywhere in the vicinity of any machining or cutting operation.

Enjoy.

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks Bob. I appreciate your tip on the Baltic birch, I don't enjoy working with MDF. I will definitely look into that.

My goal is to create a HiFi audio system that can be used to enhance movies as well. Primarily, this will be a music system.

Musical taste includes classical, symphony, rock, grunge, alternative, punk....pretty much everything. Except country. There are no cow-folk in this house!

[Heli-Tim]

Budget is hard to pin down. I don't want to cheap out and compromise the system, but at the same time I don't require the latest and greatest gadgets... I am open to DIY components as well, I actually prefer them if they achieve better results. Historically I have been known to spend more money and buy better components.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Tim,

Welcome to HT Guide and welcome to the Statements family! :T

From your response to Bob regarding your audio direction, I think you need to decide how much enhancement you're looking for when watching movies. It makes a BIG difference in amps, preamps etc. If you want a full blown HT system that also excels playing music, the least expensive option I could recommend would be a Marantz SR6010 receiver. A friend of mine just bought one from a local audio store for $800. It has preouts so it can still remain in your system when you add a separate amp. That said, I've had separates for several decades and that is the best route to go but not the least expensive.

If you can swing separates, Emotiva is my favorite but they've discontinued all of their less expensive HT electronic so prices are higher. I really like their XPA series amps. Big power and great sound. Outlaw Audio has a nice HT processor that is reasonably priced that would also work well. Bob recommended an Oppo which is excellent advice since it does so many thing so well. There are other less expensive options for a DVD player that also do a great job with excellent video and sound quality.

One other thought, if you are thinking 2-channel, Emotiva is closing out their VDA-2 Dac's for $199 which is also a preamp that I highly recommend. It has an analog volume but all the connections are digital so no legacy component connections. The Dac is an AD1955 which has excellent sound quality. It's very nicely done and can be the center piece of your system if you aren't looking for a full surround system.

Please create a build thread when you get started. We love pictures!

Good luck with the build! There are lots of helpful people here to answer your questions if needed.

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

A quick follow up. Whatever you choose for amplification, you'll need a minimum 100 WPC at 8 ohms with 4ohm capability of a 150 WPC or more. More power is better. This will rule out many of the receivers that advertise big power and deliver small power. As I mentioned in the previous post, Marantz seems to be one of the better ones.

HTH

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks for your input Jim. I really do appreciate it! I will have to read up on the Marantz unit. I work in the Canadian Arctic for 21 days on/ 21 days off. unfortunately the internet is hit and miss.

A quick side question... am I correct in assuming that a unit like the Emotiva XPA-5 would not be the same as having 5 separate amps? Im assuming that when you say seperates you mean each speaker would have its own dedicated unit, all controlled by a pre-amp or mixing unit of some sort?

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Tim,

I'm shivering just thinking about working in the arctic! :E

Sorry, separates is an audio term referring to separate amp/preamps rather than a receiver which is an integrated unit. Receivers are popular in consumer electronics because of the cost but the vast majority have over rated power supplies and cheaply made electronics. There are exceptions if you want to spend a lot of money. Marantz seems to be one of the better ones at an affordable price. You still have to be selective and choose carefully to get one that will handle 4 ohm loads.

An XPA-5 amp is a great choice and is what I use in my main system with the Statements II. It has big power and sounds great. It has 5 channels of amplification in one amp. On the video side of my system, I also have a recently discontinued Emotiva UMC-200 pre/pro for surround duty that I highly recommend if you can find one or the Outlaw 975 looks good too for $549 and should offer similar performance. This is a good basis for a home theater/audio system and will allow you to have 5 channel surround for movies or listen to two channel for music.

I'm a bit of a purist and run the front two channels through a Channel Islands passive preamp which has a home theater pass through that allows me control of all channels with the UMC-200 pre/pro or select a different input on the CI passive pre and have music only. I have a modified Lite Audio Dac 62, Yakin tube buffer and a Squeezebox Touch connected to it that is hard wired to a music server with several hundred gigs of music in wav/flac format that I've accumulated over the years. It sounds a little complicated but allows me to have control of my complete music collection at my fingertips from my listening position. :B It works well.

My 2nd system with the Anthology's is a 2-channel system with an Emotiva LPA-1 amp (discontinued) and Emotiva XDA-2 Dac/preamp. It's a little overkill for entertaining but the wife is happy with it in our living room so I'm happy.

If budget allows, I'd highly recommend you invest in a separate amp/preamp or pre/pro depending on whether you want 2-channel or multiple channel surround available for home theater. Bluejeans cables offer very good cables for the money. I'm also a fan of Signal Cables silver interconnects but that's another conversation.

HTH

Stay warm! Our cold weather is rapidly approaching here in Iowa and I'm not looking forward to it. I like warm weather. Now, if I could just convince my wife we need to move to a warmer climate where I could go play outside year around.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Jim,

First of all, thanks for taking the time to help me. I will look into all of the recommendations you've suggested before I make any decisions.

Ultimately, my system will probably consist of Two Statement II towers, and possibly a sub for HT use. I'm not sure if I will add surrund or not, as my previous (cheap) system didn't really add any value (for me) that a good 2.1 system could not add. My wife would like the whole house wired for audio, but realistically, in addition to the main system, I would say there will be two speakers for the kitchen, and two speakers for either the upstairs bedroom or ensuite(house is going through a complete rebuild from the concrete up). The two Statements will probably be all we have for the first few years, depending on my time-availability and how much we spend building the house. I will have to weigh this all when purchasing the "brains" of the system. I would hate to buy really nice stuff that wasn't able to handle upgrades.

*Note: it would probably make more sense to have a second system for the upstairs, probably just a 2.0 with two bookself style speakers or somthing similar... Still thinking on it.

Anyways, Thanks again for all the help. I look forward to staring the build. Now... Back to troubleshooting planes .

[Heli-Tim]

I was just looking at parts-express. i seems that they no longer carry the Fountek NEOCd3.0 . Does anybody know if this has been discontinued, or is on back-order?

[BobEllis]

Looks like they have been superseded by the NeoX 2.0 but Madisound appears to have some in stock.

[Jim Holtz]

I was just looking at parts-express. i seems that they no longer carry the Fountek NEOCd3.0 . Does anybody know if this has been discontinued, or is on back-order?

Hi Tim,

Meniscus should have everything in stock and will sell individually or as a kit. Here is the LINK.

I've not heard anything about sourcing problems with Fountek.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks!

[Heli-Tim]

An XPA-5 amp is a great choice and is what I use in my main system with the Statements II. It has big power and sounds great. It has 5 channels of amplification in one amp. On the video side of my system, I also have a recently discontinued Emotiva UMC-200 pre/pro for surround duty that I highly recommend if you can find one or the Outlaw 975 looks good too for $549 and should offer similar performance. This is a good basis for a home theater/audio system and will allow you to have 5 channel surround for movies or listen to two channel for music.

Jim,

FYI: I've been doing some research. I think I am leaning towards the Outlaw 975, paired with the model 5000(5 x 120 watts into 8 ohms or 5 x 180 watts into 4 ohms). It appears to be a great set-up, and I can't seem to justify the extra cost of the Emotiva (even though it is soo beautiful ) I think it should be able to do everything I want. I think I would prefer the RR2150, but 1) I don't believe that it has HT capability, and 2) if I add some statement monitors as surrounds(or in another room), the 5 channel will be mandatory.

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

FYI: I've been doing some research. I think I am leaning towards the Outlaw 975, paired with the model 5000(5 x 120 watts into 8 ohms or 5 x 180 watts into 4 ohms). It appears to be a great set-up, and I can't seem to justify the extra cost of the Emotiva (even though it is soo beautiful ) I think it should be able to do everything I want. I think I would prefer the RR2150, but 1) I don't believe that it has HT capability, and 2) if I add some statement monitors as surrounds(or in another room), the 5 channel will be mandatory.

Hi Tim,

I think the 975/5000 combo would work well and will have enough power to allow you to enjoy the Statements II. Separates allow a lot of flexibility for the future and are a wise investment, IMHO.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Outlaw

Hi Tim,

I think the 975/5000 combo would work well and will have enough power to allow you to enjoy the Statements II. Separates allow a lot of flexibility for the future and are a wise investment, IMHO.

Jim

I've created a separate question in the digital audio thread regarding source inputs, but am not getting a whole lot of traffic(compared to this thread). I thought I would post the link/ sum up the question here. On the chance that someone here may be able to help I must be missing something...

Basically...After speaking with Outlaw Audio, they recommended using a Marantz pre/pro due to the 975 not having USB or aux input jack for an IPOD out(or other MP3 device[ for my wife]).What is the downside to plugging in an IPOD output to the rear aux inputs of the 975? I made the assumption that the Aux inputs were there for that reason specifically.

My plan was to use:
1 x HDMI from the laptop to do Video/ Loss-less audio
1 x HDMI from the BELL Fiber-Op RCVR for TV watching
1 x Aux inputs for IPOD, music player, etc.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?42963-Source-selection

Unless I'm misunderstanding something, this system appears to be covered with the 975 model.
Thanks for any help!

[TEK]

Hi

I would check if there was a digital output from the MP3 device instead of going analog out, into the aux and then trough the amplifier.
That said, you will probably bee OK with using the aux input as well.

For IPhone you could for example use an hdmi input instead of aux. You will need an adapter in all cases - for example something like this: http://www.apple.com/no/shop/product...tal-av-adapter
If you have the option to do so, maybe you should take the device to a shop and test it out before buying?

[Heli-Tim]

Hi

I would check if there was a digital output from the MP3 device instead of going analog out, into the aux and then trough the amplifier.
That said, you will probably bee OK with using the aux input as well.

For IPhone you could for example use an hdmi input instead of aux. You will need an adapter in all cases - for example something like this: http://www.apple.com/no/shop/product...tal-av-adapter
If you have the option to do so, maybe you should take the device to a shop and test it out before buying?

Thanks for the response. I wish I would try before I buy, but I live in Canada and have to order Outlaw gear from the US. I guess what I am trying to figure out is why Outlaw would try to sell me a Marantz unit over their own design if I could just go in with an adapter. I felt like I was misunderstanding the unit or something. the unit looks like it has tons of options that I could take advantage of!

https://outlawaudio.com/images/975GaBackHuge.jpg

100% of what I listen to will be sourced through computer or other HiFi source. My wife will probably use her MP3 player, but she doesn't mind MP3 quality, so I doubt she will care about sound output quality as long is it is up to her current standard.

[Heli-Tim]

Another question. I'm sure it won't be the last either 8O ....

Can anybody think of a reason why I shouldn't or couldn't use 2 x 30uF capacitors in parallel in place of a 60uF for the crossover?

[TEK]

No, that is something that is common to do.
If you for example take a look at the first post in this thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...ized-the-Dream

You will first see the theoretical crossover. Then you will se the more real-life version. Se for example C1 that is replaced by two different values.

If the best is to use two of 30uf, or maybe it will be better to use a low cost of 50uf and a higher quality of 10uf is a different question. I think the latter might be the preferred option.
What exact values and why might be better explained by someone else (I'm also interested in input regarding that matter).

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks TEK. I am trying trying source components locally to avoid the 33% markup for the low Canadian dollar... and the customs fees. Can only find 62uF 400V cap direct from solen. . May have to pair up a combo of smaller caps.

[Heli-Tim]

The inductors will be a pain to find as well. But it will have an exponential pay off when the system is completed!

[Jim Holtz]

The inductors will be a pain to find as well. But it will have an exponential pay off when the system is completed!

Hi Tim,

Paralleling caps is fine. The only downside is it usually takes up additional space. Inductors should be as close to spec as possible including DCR. For example, the steel core inductor speced needs to be a steel core to have the correct DCR as well as the speced value. Madisound and Meniscus both will custom wind if its not a standard value. I'd check with Solen to see if they offer the same service.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Hi Tim,

Paralleling caps is fine. The only downside is it usually takes up additional space. Inductors should be as close to spec as possible including DCR. For example, the steel core inductor speced needs to be a steel core to have the correct DCR as well as the speced value. Madisound and Meniscus both will custom wind if its not a standard value. I'd check with Solen to see if they offer the same service.

Jim

Thanks for the tip Jim! I just sent them an email to find out! I was gonna start the cabinets today. But find myself fixing a leaking roof instead :/

[Sootboots]

Hi Tim, a fellow Newfoundlander here! I dont have extensive experience like most of the guys here but enough to get me in trouble. Message me and we can get together to share ideas. The projects here look fantastic and i am sure you will be limited only by money. Or leaking roofs!!!

Jp

[Heli-Tim]

Hey again guys. I know this is a really broad question, but I'll throw it out there anyways...

In the spirit of planning ahead, what kind of power is reqired to properly run a home built subwoofer capable of keeping up with the Statement II's. Im not even convinced that I will need one, but I may possibly want one for Movies.

For example, would I require a 3 channel 150-200 WPC power amp, or maye more? FYI: I Love music, but Im not usually shaking the walls in the house...Anymore.

[Pknaz]

Hi Tim,

This will largely depend on your requirements. How loud do you plan on playing movies? Add 10db to that for peaks to be safe. you'll then need to consider which driver you plan on using, the size box you plan to put it in (Box design can influence power handling) and use something like WinISD Alpha Pro to model your intended driver. WinISD can tell you what the power handling (limits) will be.

[Jim Holtz]

Hey again guys. I know this is a really broad question, but I'll throw it out there anyways...

In the spirit of planning ahead, what kind of power is reqired to properly run a home built subwoofer capable of keeping up with the Statement II's. Im not even convinced that I will need one, but I may possibly want one for Movies.

For example, would I require a 3 channel 150-200 WPC power amp, or maye more? FYI: I Love music, but Im not usually shaking the walls in the house...Anymore.

Hi Tim,

The easiest way to power a sub is with a dedicated sub plate amp that will also have a crossover built in for frequency control. The driver you select will dictate the power requirements but you can usually figure on 500 - 1000 watts. The Statements II, IMHO, don't need any additional bass for music unless you're into pipe organ or techno. However, movies do benefit from additional bass for explosions etc. I'd suggest you take a look at Jon's UMAX sub thread for a good guide. I have two 15" for my home system that are only used for movies that work very well. I am using a pro amp with a separate active crossover to power them since I have two subs.

HTH

Jim

[JoeAngelicchio]

Hi Tim,

The easiest way to power a sub is with a dedicated sub plate amp that will also have a crossover built in for frequency control. The driver you select will dictate the power requirements but you can usually figure on 500 - 1000 watts. The Statements II, IMHO, don't need any additional bass for music unless you're into pipe organ or techno. However, movies do benefit from additional bass for explosions etc. I'd suggest you take a look at Jon's UMAX sub thread for a good guide. I have two 15" for my home system that are only used for movies that work very well. I am using a pro amp with a separate active crossover to power them since I have two subs.

HTH

Jim

[ATTACH=CONFIG]24867[/ATTACH]

Hi Jim,

What active crossover are you using?

Thanks
Joe

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks guys!

Also, Jim: I may have said it before, but that system looks phenomenal!

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Jim,

What active crossover are you using?

Thanks
Joe

Hi Joe,

It's a Reckhorn B-1 that I bought from CSS a few years ago. It's no longer available which is unfortunate since it works very well.

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks guys!

Also, Jim: I may have said it before, but that system looks phenomenal!

Thanks Tim! There are many with much more elaborate systems than mine but it suits me and it is very satisfying.

Jim

[TEK]

IMHO, don't need any additional bass for music unless you're into pipe organ or techno. However, movies do benefit from additional bass for explosions etc.

Everything is a subject of personal preferences and taste.
In this case I, on a general basic and without knowing the statments, have a different perspective.
First, it willl probably work well. However, my experience is - and so far with no exception - that a (preferrable two) sub of good quality will add a very nice foundation to music - almost independent of type of music.
But this does require that the sub is correctly matched to the mains and that the crossover is correct.
The good thing about a sub is that you can adust level according to your needs.

Subs for music is a bit like heven or hell.
When you get it right it's just wonderful. All other times it's a drag, irritating and lot of works to get right ;-)

[tktran]

Everything is a subject of personal preferences and taste.

Listening is one of those things that is hard to describe, but I will try not to use too many superlatives:

I have a pair of Statements II, and in my room, (30' x 20' (x 12' ceilings)) on the rare occasion like tonight when I am able to listen to nightclub music at high levels (105db peaks according to my RTA), the bass is enough to shake my body, and shake my seat. These are kind if levels that would drive most wives and young children from the room (mine are out of town) but are enjoyable to me.

But it doesn't shake the floor or hurt my ears, or cause temporary tinnitus. Do you like music at these levels? Do you prefer to be in the front row at rock concerts or nightclubs?

Like Jim, I have a pair 15" of long throw subwoofers (TC Sounds LMS-R), but I have never felt like I was missing anything, so I was never ompelled to incorporate them into my music system.

It just depends on what levels you like to listen at.

People talk about "live music" levels, but classical music in a concert hall, or jazz music in an intimate nightclub, or a hard rock/metal gig played to over 30,000 people are very different things.

I would would build the Statement II first, and think about subwoofers later.

[TEK]

It just depends on what levels you like to listen at.

I do see that we have very different perspectives about this.
I do not agree that the benefit of a sub is related to the levels that you are listening at. I do see that IF you are listening to very high levels a sub might be necessary just to be able to get enough sound pressure in the lower levels.
I usually don't listen at high levels.

From MY perspective the point with a sub is that it can give you a flat response (or a small extra if you like that) all the way down to well below 20hz - and you can get that even at low levels. With several sub's you can place them at different location and - if needed - EQ them, so that you get a clean bass all the way down. The bass part of speakers will often either roll of earlier or have other room issues. With sub's you can adjust that problematic lower part according to your preferences, and you will often have more membran area to work with - as well as more power, so that the lower parts can be more easily handled with dedicated amps and within the comfort sone of the bass elements.
And it is in this perspective, and at very normal listening levels, I'm referring to that my experience is that subs adds a very nice foundation to music (when you get it right).

You might get much of this by EQ'ing you mains, or if you are just lucky. However, adding 2 15" and separate amps, gives a lot more membrane are that can effortlessly create that bass also on low listening levels.

And of course, extra sub's are not something you MUST have. But it is something that you CAN have.

I would would build the Statement II first, and think about subwoofers later.

That I can agree 100% with :-)

[Heli-Tim]

TEK and tktran,

Thanks for the responses. I like having two different perspectives to consider. I am a guitar player, so I prefer my music a little less bass heavy then some people. That being said, Some songs just sound better with that low end standing out prominently.

I chose the statement II's for the sonic properties that they offer, and am quite confident that I will not be disappointed . As you've both suggested I will be building the towers first and going from there.

Thanks again to everyone for all the input/help. This forum will be a very useful tool for me, It already has been!

Cheers,
Tim

[BobEllis]

I'm with TEK, a properly integrated sub adds to most music. A common justification for 40 Hz is all you need is that an Electric Bass open E string fundamental is 42 Hz. These days a fair number of rockers are playing a 5 string, which has a fundamental as low as 31 Hz. Classical bass, piano, pipe organ and tuba all reach below 40 Hz, to say nothing of synthesizers. There may not be much energy below 40 Hz., but I miss it when it's not there. Yes, get the mains up to snuff first.

[tktran]

Hi Bob,

The Statement II have no problems getting down to below 20Hz in room.

In my room:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?41927-Statements-II-A-musical-evolution!&p=601628&viewfull=1#post601628

Curt Campbell measured the FR and distortion down to 20Hz:

http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statement_II_5.html

I am going to stand by my comment, unless you want higher SPL, or lower distortion as the same SPL, in the bottom 2 octaves.

Many speakers can "do 20Hz" (eg. Devialet Phantom, Kii Audio 3 with their 6.5" woofers ) it just depends I whether you want to do 20Hz cleanly @ 60dB, or at 110+ dB:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=45

[Jim Holtz]

Guys,

The reason I've repeatedly made the comment that you'll miss very little if anything in most music is because the RS225's have an F/3 of 32 Hz. As tktran said, the bass capability of the Statements/Anthology's is very clean, tight, deep and powerful enough to feel it as well as hear it. The (2) RS225's in each Statement move a surprising amount of air for 8" drivers. BTW, the Statements II look great tktran! Very pretty! :T

All that said, I'm an old bass head. I like big bass, but I like accurate bass when listening to music. Movies, not so much so. I really enjoy my subs when watching action movies. I roll the subs in around 50 Hz. with a 24 db crossover to pump up the lowest octave. Here, I adjust to taste with no concerns about flat response. That makes watching movies fun for me, but it would not be a setting that I would want for music. YMMV....

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Bob, Thanks for weighing in and providing that awesome chart! I've saved a copy for future reference.

All:
I can't wait to weigh in with my first hand experience after they are built! One thing that I am already very happy about, is that for the first time in my short 30 years on this planet, I have found a good group of people who love accurately reproduced music as much as I do .

[Heli-Tim]

As I have been obsessing over amps in my free time lately(wife can verify this ).... I am wondering if the XPA-200 would be a better option than the XPA-5 or Outlaw 5000 for a stereo setup. From what I understand, the XPA-5/ 5000 probably wouldn't be able to handle a sub if I added one anyways... so assuming I don't use more than 2 channels for stereo/ possibly a sub for movies...... this would save about 40% of the amp budget, which could cover something else. Making good sense, or am I disillusional?

Note: I've found an emotive retailer in Canada, so no customs, fees, etc. Just higher prices

[Jim Holtz]

As I have been obsessing over amps in my free time lately(wife can verify this ).... I am wondering if the XPA-200 would be a better option than the XPA-5 or Outlaw 5000 for a stereo setup. From what I understand, the XPA-5/ 5000 probably wouldn't be able to handle a sub if I added one anyways... so assuming I don't use more than 2 channels for stereo/ possibly a sub for movies...... this would save about 40% of the amp budget, which could cover something else. Making good sense, or am I disillusional?

Note: I've found an emotive retailer in Canada, so no customs, fees, etc. Just higher prices

Hi Tim,

You might want to take a closer look at the specs of the two amps. The transformer size of the XPA-200 is 360 volta while the XPA-2 or XPA-5 utilizes a 1.2 KV transformer. I was told by the engineer who designed the XPA series amps that the XPA-5 pooled the power to however many channels were connected. If you're running it in 2-channel mode you have the same power as a XPA-2 which is 300/500 watts vs 200/300 watts with all channels driven. Those are pretty impressive specs and allow a lot of flexibility for additional channels in the future.

A sub should have a dedicated amp to perform properly. They require big power to do what they're designed to do. I power my two subs with a Behringer EP4000 which is rated at 550/950 watts per channel. It works very well!

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

I was told by the engineer who designed the XPA series amps that the XPA-5 pooled the power to however many channels were connected. I may pick up a DC-1 DAC to accompany it for starters, and ads HT later. All depends on the house renovations. We will be tight on space for at least a year or two.
Jim

That's awesome. Thanks for pointing that out. I can pick up an XPA-5 for approx $1050.00 Canadian + shipping, Compared to $550.00 it seem questionable, but you've justified the Extra cost .

[Jim Holtz]

That's awesome. Thanks for pointing that out. I can pick up an XPA-5 for approx $1050.00 Canadian + shipping, Compared to $550.00 it seem questionable, but you've justified the Extra cost .

Hi Tim,

Think of it as the amp being the electronic foundation of your system. The XPA-5 is a several decade investment. I have also bought many used amps over the years. They just last forever. I bought my XPA-5 used on the Emotiva forum from another member. It was pristine and still had 2 1/2 years warranty remaining. He was rearranging his system and decided he wanted something different. Its a very good and solid amp. The HT and audiophile guys tend to see green grass on the other side of the fence more than most.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

Just a quick update... As per a recommendation from BobEllis, I have been doing a fair amount of reading during my down time at work and I think I've decided to build myself a Class AB Honey Badger (150WPC/8 ohms, 250WPC/4 ohms) to drive the speakers. It seems like an amazing Power Amp, and should compliment the Statements very well!