Experts,
I’m trying to build a high end floor standing speakers (plus a central later), and I’m not sure I’m on the right direction… I’ve studied a lot, with the only result to make me more confused…
I found your forum very inspiring, and I hope you can share your experience with me
What I want to do: 2 floorstanding speakers (+ 1 central later) with the most natural sound possible. I want seat and listen the real instruments and voices, nothing too “cold” (like the B&W speakers under 5k USD i.e.) or too flat. Here the draft for the floorstanding. The central will be a match later.
I need a speaker that “rock” as well, because I listen electro and rock at high volume sometimes…
My amp now is a Marantz SR7002, that could be used as pre-amp or direct with 150W per channel.
For the design I have the maximum flexibility, so feel free to make any recommendations. I’m thinking to drill the angled panels for use better the cabinet volume (dimensions in mm).
Here my (many ops questions:
1. What do you think about the drivers choice?
a. Scan Speak r3004-662000D
b. Scan Speak 15m-4531k00
c. Scan Speak 18w-4531g01
d. Scan Speak 18wu-4747t00
Is a 4 ways too much (I want cover as much as I can the frequencies)? Are there drivers with same quality for less price, or better quality for a small price increase? Can I have the same result with 3 drivers?
2. Crossover: I’m thinking to make the speakers active, using the miniDSP (1x4 or 2x8?) and the miniDSP mic for measurements. Is that a good idea? Is perhaps better passive (but looks like the design is complicated and more expensive) ? my amp can bi-amp, so in theory possible..
3. What I can use for amp the drivers? I read some good review about the ICEPower but looks like it is too cold and difficult to get. I would have a “one button all on” system. I think I can even buy something Yamaha HI-FI base amp for every 2 drivers (like tweeter on left channel and mid on right, etc.) but they are big, heavy and I can only put them at the bottom of the speakers… still don’t know if that make sense. Or car amps with audiophile spec, if they exist at reasonable price? i.e., how I define the volume of the various amps in case of amp module without volume pot? Adding a pot is always possible?
What about Hypex UcD180HG with HxR?
4. What’s the best frequency cut for the drivers, or what’s the best way to define?
5. What’s the best filter for the crossover? Looks like it’s the linkwitz, but again not sure
6. In my case, is better 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers?
7. I downloaded the scans speak toolbox: below the results, but not sure how to use properly for my project
8. If I go active, do I need to protect the tweeter with a 10 microfarad resistance in series?
9. Is better amps with thermal protection right?
10. If I leave always the amps on, are the drivers go to overheating?
11. If I buy the amp card, for ground them is an aluminium frame enough?
12. I want put some “cone” like in the anechoic chamber on the angled panels and compressed wool between that panels and the vertical/horizontal one: do you have better recommendation?
Bitumen sheet on all the internal walls
13. What do you recommend for cabinet wood material? MDF is good enough or plywood is better? Now is 15mm but I can make ticker.
14. I plan to cut the front panel in the between of “driver box” for avoid vibrations: is that a good idea or a waste of time?
I listened a lot of speakers in the shops, some VERY expensive (>10k USD a piece), and 90% of them are really not close to reality IMHO; looks like they are trying too hard to get us say “listen the violin” or “listen that voices”, forgetting that their scope is report the sound as in a natural environment
For your information, I live in Japan.
Thanks in advance for your great help ;x( and I hope my post is not too messy…
I’m trying to build a high end floor standing speakers (plus a central later), and I’m not sure I’m on the right direction… I’ve studied a lot, with the only result to make me more confused…
I found your forum very inspiring, and I hope you can share your experience with me
What I want to do: 2 floorstanding speakers (+ 1 central later) with the most natural sound possible. I want seat and listen the real instruments and voices, nothing too “cold” (like the B&W speakers under 5k USD i.e.) or too flat. Here the draft for the floorstanding. The central will be a match later.
I need a speaker that “rock” as well, because I listen electro and rock at high volume sometimes…
My amp now is a Marantz SR7002, that could be used as pre-amp or direct with 150W per channel.
For the design I have the maximum flexibility, so feel free to make any recommendations. I’m thinking to drill the angled panels for use better the cabinet volume (dimensions in mm).
Here my (many ops questions:
1. What do you think about the drivers choice?
a. Scan Speak r3004-662000D
b. Scan Speak 15m-4531k00
c. Scan Speak 18w-4531g01
d. Scan Speak 18wu-4747t00
Is a 4 ways too much (I want cover as much as I can the frequencies)? Are there drivers with same quality for less price, or better quality for a small price increase? Can I have the same result with 3 drivers?
2. Crossover: I’m thinking to make the speakers active, using the miniDSP (1x4 or 2x8?) and the miniDSP mic for measurements. Is that a good idea? Is perhaps better passive (but looks like the design is complicated and more expensive) ? my amp can bi-amp, so in theory possible..
3. What I can use for amp the drivers? I read some good review about the ICEPower but looks like it is too cold and difficult to get. I would have a “one button all on” system. I think I can even buy something Yamaha HI-FI base amp for every 2 drivers (like tweeter on left channel and mid on right, etc.) but they are big, heavy and I can only put them at the bottom of the speakers… still don’t know if that make sense. Or car amps with audiophile spec, if they exist at reasonable price? i.e., how I define the volume of the various amps in case of amp module without volume pot? Adding a pot is always possible?
What about Hypex UcD180HG with HxR?
4. What’s the best frequency cut for the drivers, or what’s the best way to define?
5. What’s the best filter for the crossover? Looks like it’s the linkwitz, but again not sure
6. In my case, is better 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers?
7. I downloaded the scans speak toolbox: below the results, but not sure how to use properly for my project
8. If I go active, do I need to protect the tweeter with a 10 microfarad resistance in series?
9. Is better amps with thermal protection right?
10. If I leave always the amps on, are the drivers go to overheating?
11. If I buy the amp card, for ground them is an aluminium frame enough?
12. I want put some “cone” like in the anechoic chamber on the angled panels and compressed wool between that panels and the vertical/horizontal one: do you have better recommendation?
Bitumen sheet on all the internal walls
13. What do you recommend for cabinet wood material? MDF is good enough or plywood is better? Now is 15mm but I can make ticker.
14. I plan to cut the front panel in the between of “driver box” for avoid vibrations: is that a good idea or a waste of time?
I listened a lot of speakers in the shops, some VERY expensive (>10k USD a piece), and 90% of them are really not close to reality IMHO; looks like they are trying too hard to get us say “listen the violin” or “listen that voices”, forgetting that their scope is report the sound as in a natural environment
For your information, I live in Japan.
Thanks in advance for your great help ;x( and I hope my post is not too messy…
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