1st DIY Build - Statement II Center

[fordmaker]

I began buying parts and dreaming about the original Statements over four years ago, but never got the woodworking end of it off the ground. I have since purchased a table saw and router, and with the release of the Statement II center design, decided to have a go at it! I'll start with the smaller center, and if (when) that goes well, I'll build the big front speakers to match it.

I built a little table out of old scrap wood to hold the saw, which gave me a chance to learn how to use it before cutting actual speaker boards. For the router, well, I just hit the switch and began working on the speaker cut-outs. Yeah. I probably should have practiced on a spare board first. I'm going to liberally refer to the "Woodworking Advice..." thread tip #1 and just say that it doesn't look too bad from a distance!


Now, for the first question:
Why is the connector terminal placed so close to the mounting screw location on the Vifa Mids? I'm not certain there will be enough wood to even hold a tee nut. Can I get away with wood screws for the mids and tweeter and machine screws and nuts for the heavier woofers? I'm using birch ply-wood.


And for the second question:
I know placing two inductors close together and back-to-back is bad. Is there a problem placing the air core inductor very close to the end of the big capacitor?

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Fordmaker,

It looks like you're off to a great start.

To answer your questions;

I never use T-nuts. I use #8 deep thread screws sold as sheet rock screws at your local home store.

The inductor won't hurt the cap. Close placement is ok.

We like lots of pictures!

Jim

[fordmaker]

Progress has been slow as I took some time to get ready for the annual sailboat races last week. The 20mph winds on race day played havoc with the Sunfish fleet. Our mast pocket self destructed with only three miles left to go, and we were one of many towed back in. I shouldn't feel to badly, someone managed to sink their much larger Harbor 20! Definitely no regrets - It was great fun.

I anticipated building the crossovers on some HDF floor samples, but I underestimated the required area. The woofer circuit was OK, but after laying the components for the mid and tweeter out, I decided to just combine them on a larger piece of plywood. I'm not sure if I like it though - It placed all of the heat radiating resistors on the same board (and the same side, as the woofer circuit will be in one compartment and the mid/tweeter in the other). I wonder how warm the sealed compartment will get when they are run hard? I rarely listen to music too loudly, so the occasional weekend movie is the only concern.

[soundemon]

Real pro looking xovers. Well done!

[bostonmurf]

Hi Fordmaker,
I can second Jim's suggestion about screws. I was going to use t-nuts but took Jim's advise and used screws instead. They worked perfectly and my process was to drill the pilot hole using this to keep the drill straight http://www.amazon.com/Gator-V-DrillG...ds=drill+guide
then screw in without the speaker installed, unscrew and sand off any excess the screw had brought up. Finally screw in with the speaker. Worked great on MDF board.
I used #8 x 3/4 on the woofers and #6 3/4 on the mids and tweeter (the heads are a little smaller and fit perfect in the recesses on the front plate)
hope that helps

[soundemon]

Hi Fordmaker,
I can second Jim's suggestion about screws. I was going to use t-nuts but took Jim's advise and used screws instead. They worked perfectly and my process was to drill the pilot hole using this to keep the drill straight http://www.amazon.com/Gator-V-DrillG...ds=drill+guide
then screw in without the speaker installed, unscrew and sand off any excess the screw had brought up. Finally screw in with the speaker. Worked great on MDF board.
I used #8 x 3/4 on the woofers and #6 3/4 on the mids and tweeter (the heads are a little smaller and fit perfect in the recesses on the front plate)
hope that helps

Don't you worry with this process though that even though it fits securely the first time thru, if you ever have to remove and re-install a driver more than once the holes start to get sloppy and lose their grip?

[Jim Holtz]

Don't you worry with this process though that even though it fits securely the first time thru, if you ever have to remove and re-install a driver more than once the holes start to get sloppy and lose their grip?

No, deep thread drywall type screws are what is sold by PE and many others for speaker building. They can be removed and reinstalled many, many times without issue. If you ever have one that gets sloppy, simply stick a broken toothpick in the hole before reinstalling the screw. It's like new again.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

yes my screw came from PE, I've removed the drivers a couple of times and they still feel stiff to screw in. Just do it slowly with a screwdriver and don't over tighten and you'll be fine.

[soundemon]

... mind.... blown!

[Hank]

Good-looking x-overs, fordmaker. You'll enjoy the project and after finishing, you will be Afflicted with speaker DIY-itis and you WILL build the L/R's and move on to Addicted and you will NEVER stop building speakers. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!:demon:

[spleen21]

Can confirm Hanks comment. Finished my "one off project" mains. Now Currently planning a center and some surrounds! I was well and truly bitten. I NEED more!

Tidy looking Xovers too! Very nice!

[bostonmurf]

Can confirm Hanks comment. Finished my "one off project" mains. Now Currently planning a center and some surrounds! I was well and truly bitten. I NEED more!

Tidy looking Xovers too! Very nice!

hahahah! same here spleen21, I'm starting my center Columbus day weekend. its VERY addictive

[bostonmurf]

How are things coming along fordmaker? any more pics???

[fordmaker]

No pics yet - I'll get one when I can figure out where I put the camera. I have had a few "Oh, Deleted, beep beep, deleted, beep it" moments while building the box. At one point I picked it up to smash it on the floor and was going to start over from scratch, but I cooled off and decided to see if I could fix it and hide the damage. I think it will be OK, though a varnished finish may not be an option now. Be very careful with the glue. The bond between a little 3 inch dribble of glue touching the edge of a piece of scrap is apparently stronger than the internal strength of 34 inches of birch ply. Titebond III is crazy weird strong!

[kevinm]

Haha, had a few of those moments myself. I swear I started out with straight cuts

[fordmaker]

Pictures of my current progress (the box is upside down). I still need to fit the internal braces and crossovers, etc. The bottom panel will be last.

[knowledgebass]

Waxed paper is your friend when working with glue and wooden cauls. Or rather it should be. 😀

[bostonmurf]

coming along nicely! love the grain on the front. hang in there, i had issues on my towers. remade the fronts but managed to use bits from the old one for base stands and practice cuts.