Big Plans with lots of Questions

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  • Seppelrator
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 4

    Big Plans with lots of Questions

    Hi everyone,
    I decided to go DIY for my whole new HT. This is completely new for me so I want to use this thread for all my questions and I´m sure there are many.
    My plan is to build the following:

    -2x Khanspire
    -1x Khancenter
    -2x In-Khan-Neatos
    -2x FTW-21 sealed Subs

    I already finished all the crossovers, thats the easy part but I don´t have much experience with woodworking.
    I friend of mine offered me to use his wood workshop (tablesaw - 3.5 Makita plunge router with table...) but there it begins.
    What bits do I need for that router?

    After what I read:
    -1/4 upcut spiral bit
    -3/4 roundover bit
    -flush bit (size?)
    -chamfer bit (size?)
    -Jasper Jig (necessary with router table?)

    Is that correct?
    Input from your size would be very helpful. Thanks a lot
  • kbzx35
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 14

    #2
    a Jasper jig will be very handy if you plan on flush mounting your drivers which is highly recommended. Probably will need a jig saw also.

    Comment

    • ---k---
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Nov 2005
      • 5204

      #3
      Not trying to be too flippant, but your buddy has a table saw and router. I'm guessing he knows how to use them. What does he say? I bet you would get better real-time advice than from a bunch of us yahoos here on the internet.

      But it seems like you're on the right track. You will need either a jasper jig, router buddy, or build your own jig to make the circle cuts.

      I actually don't find a router table as helpful for speakers this size. They are too big to put up on a table. A piece of mdf cut to make a custom larger router base is useful. Hopefully the one i used/built shows up in some of the pictures. - maybe in my sub build?

      Flush trim is a must. You'll need a long one do trim the 1.5" face. Probably get like 2" long. With a 1/2" shank.

      Lots of claps. Sawboard or a guide to help you make the big long cuts in the plywood.

      Big tall speakers are a built of a different animal to build. But don't be scared. My subs were the first wood working I've ever done. The full size khans weren't far after. I taught myself everything from the internet and tv.

      I would suggest build the center first and learn, then build the other speakers.

      Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk 2
      - Ryan

      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

      Comment

      • Seppelrator
        Junior Member
        • Jun 2013
        • 4

        #4
        My buddy only worked a few times with a router so he supplies the tools but thats it.
        I´m going to buy a jasper jig and should I need additinal bits (he has a bunch) I just buy them locally.
        I think I´m going to start with the In-Khans and use 3/4 MDF for everything but the front, right? It should be a double layer?
        How do I know how deep I have to cut the ring to flush mount the driver? Just measure the ring on the driver and add a littlebit for the gasket?
        Do I have to chamfer all driver holes?

        Thanks guys

        Comment

        • kbzx35
          Junior Member
          • Jun 2013
          • 14

          #5
          No need to chamfer the tweeter but it still looks clean if you decide to. For any speaker that is open backed, then yes, do it to reduce turbulence, restriction, and standing waves. For depth to flush mount driver, you just need to measure the outer lip and give a hair over for gasket. Seems that many people run a test cut on a piece of scrap to see if they need to adjust and make sure the diameter was correct. For me, i just put the driver lip next to the router bit and move it until its flush.

          Comment

          • Carl V
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2005
            • 269

            #6
            Plan 3x,
            Measure twice...practice cut once
            ...step back & analyze
            if all is good cut the final once.

            We've all made mistakes & it's usually
            as a result of making an assumption
            and not paying attention to details.

            Comment

            • kbzx35
              Junior Member
              • Jun 2013
              • 14

              #7
              When using a table saw, plan your cuts out so that boards being cut that share the same length on one side are all cut at the same time. That way its consistent as it can be. e.g. you have these boards 10x8 front, 10x12 sides, and 8.5x12 top. Sequence it so that the 10" cuts are done together and the 12" cuts are done together. This way the cuts will be consistent. Also, since you have the luxury of a router, oversize the cut on boards that will be lapping over so you have enough material to trim. Under cutting will lead to a big headache to fix.

              Comment

              • Seppelrator
                Junior Member
                • Jun 2013
                • 4

                #8
                Thank you guys! I´m going to practice with scrap first and see how it goes.

                Comment

                • BobEllis
                  Super Senior Member
                  • Dec 2005
                  • 1609

                  #9
                  If you're trying to feed full sheets of MDF through the table saw I hope that your friend will be helping you. Unless he has extension tables that support the whole sheet and you are built like Mr. Universe you're very likely to have the cut wander.

                  Try to reference as many cuts as possible to factory edges. They are very straight. If you put your cut edge against the fence and you wandered even a little your cut will wander more. I like using an extension aux fence that allows longer contact before and after the blade. Helps me stay straighter.

                  Read the woodworking tips thread for a slew of helpful ideas.

                  Comment

                  • Seppelrator
                    Junior Member
                    • Jun 2013
                    • 4

                    #10
                    I just finished the In-Khans and they turned out very nice. Work was so much fun and the most importante part - they sound amazing. They sound better than my old 2000$ commercial speakers!
                    I think I have a new hobby


                    Comment

                    • ---k---
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 5204

                      #11
                      Looks like they turned out great. I'm really glad you like them.
                      Where do you plan on them ending up? IN the wall or on a stand? Which crossover did you use?
                      Oh, and you got to throw some mud and tell us what $2,0000 speakers you are comparing them to.
                      - Ryan

                      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                      Comment

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