Does any one DIY cables as well? I just finished up my Statement monitors and picked up some used Parasound gear to run them and need to get XLR and speaker cable. Planning on making my own. Just curious if you guys have any preferred methods or parts?
DIY cables
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Originally posted by Hdale85I have, but don't generally talk about it much here in respects to the forum sponsor and owner.- Bottom
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I like mil-spec wire for speakers, but only because the insulation is generally Teflon and thus thinner than most speaker cables, allowing for a thinner cable for a given copper cross-section. (The insulation does make them more annoying to strip, though.) Also, it's usually tinned (i.e. the individual strands are plated with tin or silver, the only material difference being that it's harder to solder to tin) so it doesn't get ugly discoloration if exposed to air.
For terminations, anything less than a Neutrik Speakon won't do for DIY projects. It's just a vastly superior solution to the "binding post" kludge. I once bought some Chinese Speakon knockoffs, but the mechanism was vastly inferior, with the screw used as the wire-clamp rather than the screw acting on a lever that clamps down on the wire. The real Neutrik ones are cheap enough that there's no reason to buy knockoffs.- Bottom
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Originally posted by DS-21I like mil-spec wire for speakers, but only because the insulation is generally Teflon and thus thinner than most speaker cables, allowing for a thinner cable for a given copper cross-section. (The insulation does make them more annoying to strip, though.) Also, it's usually tinned (i.e. the individual strands are plated with tin or silver, the only material difference being that it's harder to solder to tin) so it doesn't get ugly discoloration if exposed to air.
For terminations, anything less than a Neutrik Speakon won't do for DIY projects. It's just a vastly superior solution to the "binding post" kludge. I once bought some Chinese Speakon knockoffs, but the mechanism was vastly inferior, with the screw used as the wire-clamp rather than the screw acting on a lever that clamps down on the wire. The real Neutrik ones are cheap enough that there's no reason to buy knockoffs.
I'm thinking either a braided variety or trying a cross connected coax type for speaker. I'm going to try a shielded mic cable for interconnects.- Bottom
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