Crossover parts flexibility? (Holtz Monitor statements) Complete! With build & pics!

[NPE]

Hi! So after a long time, finally decided that this was it and I was to finish building my Monitor Statements Almost finished the cabinets, I put the crossover together from the parts purchased quite a while ago, and noticed two surprises...

1) 51 uF instead of a 50 uF cap... and
2) A 3.6 uF cap instead of a 3.3 uF + .33 uF wired in parallel for 3.63 uF...

So how screwed am I? I've put together the crossover using the above, but I'm about to screw in the crossover and solder the last wires to the cabinet and am having doubts whether these two parts difference will have a significant effect in the end and it would be worth it to reorder the parts :cry:

The 50/51 uF cap is for the mid woofer, and the 3.66 uF is for the tweeter: http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Mo...allNetwork.PNG

My 1st thought was 50/51, a 2% difference, might not make a huge difference, and for the 3.6 vs 3.63, that's less than 1% difference... But then thought that it might not be as simple as that and might skew things significantly in the end... Thoughts?

http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Statements_Monitor_3.html

[Jim Holtz]

Hi! So after a long time, finally decided that this was it and I was to finish building my Monitor Statements Almost finished the cabinets, I put the crossover together from the parts purchased quite a while ago, and noticed two surprises...

1) 51 uF instead of a 50 uF cap... and
2) A 3.6 uF cap instead of a 3.3 uF + .33 uF wired in parallel for 3.63 uF...

So how screwed am I? I've put together the crossover using the above, but I'm about to screw in the crossover and solder the last wires to the cabinet and am having doubts whether these two parts difference will have a significant effect in the end and it would be worth it to reorder the parts :cry:

The 50/51 uF cap is for the mid woofer, and the 3.66 uF is for the tweeter: http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Mo...allNetwork.PNG

My 1st thought was 50/51, a 2% difference, might not make a huge difference, and for the 3.6 vs 3.63, that's less than 1% difference... But then thought that it might not be as simple as that and might skew things significantly in the end... Thoughts?

http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/St...Monitor_3.html

No worries! Your caps are well within normal tolerances and will work fine.

BTW, Curt is the reason they sound the way they do. He is the wizard that designed the crossovers. I think you'll enjoy them.

Jim

[NPE]

No worries! Your caps are well within normal tolerances and will work fine.

BTW, Curt is the reason they sound the way they do. He is the wizard that designed the crossovers. I think you'll enjoy them.

Jim

Wow, speedy response from the man himself! ;x( Absolutely awesome! :P I'm hoping two weeks from now I should have something presentable, huge thanks to you and Curt for what I'm hoping will be a fantastic sounding design! I'll hopefully be able to confirm this and will have a few pics of something which hopefully looks like Statement Monitors. Carbon fiber Monitor statements... Well not real carbon fiber, just a wrap :lol: Hey, if it's good enough for a lamborghini should be good enough for speakers! Can't wait! Thanks again!

[AdelaaR]

On my statements I used multiple combinations of caps, resistors and even coils to get as close as I could to the original crossover's specs.
Most components have a tolerance of 5% ... so as said by "the man himself" .. you'll be fine

[agrippa]

Pics are good. we like pics

[NPE]

Alright guess I'll have to oblige then... Only a few crappy cell pics of the building process for now:



This is my 3rd and definitely most challenging build yet! Just cabinet complexity, sheer numbers of router holes and driver recess, plus some trimming for the tweeter to fit the front baffle for example, quite a bit of work! Definitely good learning experience! Pretty happy with the results so far, I'd say I'd rate myself 8/10.

Made a few small mistakes along the way but luckily nothing too bad. For example, when drilling hole for the router pin for the driver recess/holes, I made sure that the drill was at exactly 90 degrees upright (using the drill's water bubble level thing on top), what I didn't factor was that my damn table was crooked so the holes also ended up a bit crooked! :lol: That somehow seemed to impact the straightness of the router hole cuts (or at least their placement) where afterwards the 3/4 and 1/2 inch (edit oops I mean one inch..) sheets driver holes didn't exactly match, so had to sand a tiny bit to make them fit exactly and as a result the hole is a tiny bit bigger than it should, no worry there though, really not significant.

Another thing, the braces along the mid tunnel... Reno depot did the big cuts, but I used a rather old saw which has since been replaced (which you can see a bit on the left of one the pics above, it's crap...) to cut the very small side braces. The damn thing didn't cut exactly 90 degrees, so when glued to the tunnel and in the cabinet they were slightly wider and gave the cabinet sides the slightest bit of curve... I was rushing a bit and didn't catch it in time... But again, a few mm each side, which of course means that the sides will bulge a tiny bit (1-1.5mm about) because obviously I didn't heed the advice and make the front baffles larger... But anyhow, I think with a tiny bit of block plane & putty it'll be near unnoticeable after the carbon fiber vinyl is applied. Noticed and fixed for 2nd cabinet though.

So that's about it for now Tested on the weekend the drivers, the individual crossovers, everything seems to work great! I had bought crossover parts for the switchable version, but only ordered 2 switches meaning I was missing 4, and in the end decided to just go with the far wall version, which of course meant I complicated my life for not much :lol: but the reasoning was that the near wall won't be necessary, and I realized that attaching the switches to the cabinet wouldn't be so simple, plus it simplified the assembling of the crossovers. But now, I'm once again slightly doubting, and think I might go check if some switches could easily fit 3/4 inch MDF, maybe some styles of switch would be simple to attach, and adding the switches to the crossovers would be rather simple, so I'll see!

edit: "Most components have a tolerance of 5%" And yeah didn't think of that! It really puts things in perspective! 8O

[Hank]

NPE, you are doing fine. I've learned over the years of producing stacks of MDF circles in my garage (GOT to figure out a use for them!), that the only way to save frustration and your blood pressure is to approach each build with the expectation that something will go wrong, usually minor, and then when it does, you'll get past it and in the end, be happy and proud of the result. Looking forward to finished speaker photos!

[AdelaaR]

I'm thinking of using my MDF circles as wheels for some improvised kids-toy-cars at some point. They already have a hole in the middle too, so painting them and putting them on should suffice

[NPE]

hahaha, great idea!!

NPE, you are doing fine. I've learned over the years of producing stacks of MDF circles in my garage (GOT to figure out a use for them!), that the only way to save frustration and your blood pressure is to approach each build with the expectation that something will go wrong, usually minor, and then when it does, you'll get past it and in the end, be happy and proud of the result. Looking forward to finished speaker photos!

Hehe thanks! Yeah still as a novice builder my #1 advice for others new to DIY would be going slow and really not rushing. Errors happen when you try to rush, which happens when you're excited about a build and want to listen to it ASAP, but that's exactly when errors happen. Also, taking the time check and recheck everything and even taking a few extra minutes to make sure everything is perfect, or even see if there would be a better way of doing something is definitely worth it. And yeah, all part of the fun and learning experience

Beautiful day outside, so some bike and a day of work! The 3$ worth of black screws I ordered won't fit... #6 screws I believe they were, they are too small, so I guess I'll stop by to local hardware store for screws, but they don't even have black screws... well nothing a little bit of dollar store marker can't fix!

UPDATE: Forgot to post... So BIG advancement, wired the crossovers, screwed in crossovers in the 1st cabinet, glued the front baffle without forgetting to insert the inner port flare, so one almost done! Will just have to apply some putty, sand, route the edges, apply CF vinyl, and one will be done!

Oh yeah, shopping... Not really any simple switch so I'll just forget the switchable version, screws... Why are screws so difficult to find? lol No black screws... Purchased #8 and #10 inox metal screws, the head is too thick, it sticks out... Purchased #8 and #10 wood screws, now for the mid the head is a little too thin and it doesn't sit flush with the baffle, and they won't work with the fountek tweeter, they're worst than the inox which I think will have to do... sigh

[AdelaaR]

I tried all kinds of screws and ordered some black ones which I ended up not liking because they sticked out too much and the heads weren't wide enough.
In the end ... I went with simple (& cheap) black drywall screws and I love the result

[NPE]

Funny how 3 drivers require 3 types of screws.. lol

So today is the day they are finished!!! I kicked myself in the balls yesterday, decided to go with a coat of black paint for the rear, so painted it, then bring back the speakers home, and then realize that, like an idiot, I didn't paint the underside... :M You IDIOT! You took out the paint, the paint roll, setup everything, and you didn't even think of painting the bottom? Jesus... Oh well, I'll buy a can of paint and give it a coat some time...

Some pics! Please excuse the horrible framing... I love wood putty, that and sanding (more precisely my sanding machine), my saviors! :T



Also read here a few days ago which talked about a technique to 'flush trim' a curve cabinet, instead of using a flush bit, you use a regular bit and raise the router on the front baffle so you can use the regular bit to level the surface. Well, that turned out very useful because my flush bit + router couldn't go far enough to flush trim the 1.75 inch front baffle! So awesome timing! Last week I'd have no idea what to do... Alright, enough typing, to work! :P

[AdelaaR]

I don't want to alarm you too much ... but I think you forgot to trim the backs of the driver holes to allow some breathing room.
Especially with a 1.75 inch MDF baffle you'll want to widen the holes quite a bit.

[technodanvan]

^^^

Yeah, probably don't want to forget about that. I use a Dremel with a drum sanding bit, but others have used a rasp or even a bit of broomstick (or equivalent) wrapped in low-grit sandpaper.

[NPE]

I don't want to alarm you too much ... but I think you forgot to trim the backs of the driver holes to allow some breathing room.
Especially with a 1.75 inch MDF baffle you'll want to widen the holes quite a bit.

lol

http://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php4?attachmentid=20674&stc=1

They are trimmed, with the one inch bit, maybe it's an optical illusion that it appears like they aren't... Anyhow, if it's not enough trim, not much to be done now! But it's true I guess the 7 inch Dayton could have been trimmed a bit more than 1 inch.. hmmm... I dry tested it with the woofer in place and to the eye the trim looked fine, the way the woofer spider is made, the baffle trim starts right about where you'd want it, so I'm not worried about it They are now dressed! (pic soon!) Just need to attach the drivers and all done! 8O

[NPE]

Ok snapped some quick shots, the Carbon Fiber vinyl is vicious, it's an absolute pleasure to work with, much faster and simpler than wood finish that you have iron on or glue and then finish with varnish and all, this you just basically stick it on and trim the edges, but it's extremely thin, and it does not really offer some type of buffer for the seams and imperfections in the cabinet. Here's a shot to illustrate. From the front at a couple feet away it doesn't really show, but with a light source and looked at from the correct angle you can see the cabinet joints which were not perfect (I had some leftover 1 inch wood that I used but the ended up slightest bit too slim):



Almost done! :B

Oh yeah, and the round edges are what I'd consider average so far... I'm a bit of a perfectionist, even if it's hard to tell from the pics & maybe build... But as the wood cuts weren't perfect, the round trims weren't absolutely perfect either, I'd say between ok/good, so the vinyl isn't 100 perfect correct, 1 foot away you can't really tell, but if you close in you can see that there's a sort of tiny empty space between wood an viny, some tiny bit of slack, which bugs me a little... Think I'll try to fill in with the crazy glue, should fix it.

I think they'll look pretty good! Not perfect, but you learn and improve for the next time! What's really cool with the CF, as you can see, with just a hair dryer, in 2s it becomes really flexible, so you can bend it to use as a gasket! On the negative side, it's not a perfectly smooth surface and has the tiny bit of relief, so in terms of maximum speaker performance, I'm sure a perfectly smooth surface would be theoretically better, in practice, I doubt it'll make an audible difference... Cheap too! 40$ shipped for a 24x100 inch roll on ebay which was enough for the 2 cabinets front side and top, had some bit of extra so I folded a bit underneath so if put on stands and there's say an inch of the bottom exposed, it looks perfect.

[NPE]

Done!!! 1st listening impressions disappointing. 2nd listening impression after fixing, huge grin!!! :P Let me explain, you can see a little on this pic that the Dayton bass woofer wire is surrounded by a bunch of black wire.

That's me soldering a wire with a + on the - 'terminal' of the crossover, yeah I know, awesome... But check out the awesome fix, you roll (more entangle) a bunch of black wire over it, so when you put it together, you're reminded to wire the + to - and - to +. Genius! So what do you do when it's time to put it together? You remove the black wire, replace it by a single neat loop of black wire to indicate that the + is -, and then connect the + to the + and the - to the - of the woofer, ignoring the black ring you put in place to indicate that you should wire the + to - and - to +. Pure genius!!! 8O

So what happens when you play them with phase inverted woofer? massive bass from speaker A, massive bass from B, and no bass from both.. sigh. Got lucky though and the first speaker I unscrewed I was met with the black loop connected to the '+' 8O :B

Ok I have to go back, they are calling my name! (More impressions later!)




(bass woofer screws are to be black markered but that's pretty much them!)

[impala454]

Love the look! Where did you get the carbon fiber vinyl?

[technodanvan]

I think he mentioned eBay, didn't say a particular source though.

Those look really, really snazzy!

[NPE]

Thanks! Right here. Crazy, 34$US shipped from Hong Kong and absolutely no issue at all. Other 3M CF sites/stores I saw was about double of that price! I'd say in practice it's a bit less shiny though, as those pics were taken with a light purposely shining on them to highlight the CF, here's another shot from another angle, which look more like the 'usual' color:



Also, I should mention, the edges I think/hope will be long lasting and resistant, but I don't think it's as solid as glued on wood veneer, for instance, with my fingers I could detach the vinyl if I wanted to, or I guess some type of rubbing or mishandling could do it too.. So it's probably not the most solid or tough finish. It's still quite adequate to handle casually, but if you're going to move them very often and maybe won't be too careful, maybe not the best idea.. But so far so good for me! :T I guess maybe superglue could make it more permanent. The seller mentioned the CF can be removed without leaving any residue, as some put it in cars, maybe that's why they didn't use the most crazy glue out there.

But I really like the results too! And as I said, a real joy to work with the CF! So quick and easy, plus doubles as speaker gasket with a bit of heat, really cool!

[NPE]

And early impressions, so far they've pretty much shined on everything I've thrown at them! 8O The bass is fantastic, I wasn't really expecting as much extension, really really good... Mids and highs superb! Not sure if it's because of the open back or what but these speakers have a huge soundstage, one of the first things you notice, and they sound 'big'! I like to rate speakers by what they do wrong, and I'm having trouble finding anything so far... :P Definitely a very, very good speaker! :T Big thanks Jim and Curt for a fantastic design!!!

For comparison sake, I've had Totem Arros and Sttafs which were sold after getting Ascend 340SE, then went Ascend Sierra 1 and later got the NrT upgrade, built a pair single driver Fostex towers & a pair of Madisound RB3. In 10 words, the 340SEs are very good midfi speakers, neutral, for the price can't ask for more! RB3 different but around same performance... Sierra is a step above and the Sierra NrT is sweet and for around 1k with NrT upgrade i think the total was with all the early purchase discounts, very good for the price and definitely gets you at least a foot in the 'true' high end at a quite affordable price. The Monitor Statements so far I feel might just give you pretty much a little bit more from top to bottom, of everything, and at this level of performance it is quite something! But yeah, I really like the NrTs but now the Statements 8O ;x( I'm REALLY happy with the performance!!! Huge thanks again!!! :P

But yeah, IMHO, so far, and I'll have to double check for respect for the NrT Sierras, I'd say the Statements are a definite level above the Sierras... A definite step above imho. Maybe vs the Ascend towers (Raal or NrT) it would be closer? Anyhow, definitely the best sound I've had in my room. Better than a huge number of mega $$$ systems I've heard in shows... But yeah, very very good... Extremely good.. Ok I'm just rambling now :lol:

[NPE]

Ok they are officially awesome and much better than the Sierra NrTs 8O I didn't re-listen to the Sierras but feel confident in this statement. When I got the 340SE I sold the Totems. I kept the RB3, 340SE and Sierra NrTs, but now I could see myself selling/giving them away, the Statements are that good, they just do everything better... They were a lot of work, but boy did they pay off! 8)

It's hard to describe, even low volume they sound great, as if they manage to sound 'big' without having to be loud, if that makes any kind of sense... Always great imaging and huge soundstage, amazingly detailed and never harsh/fatiguing, the bass, mids, highs, damn, 8O Awesome... But I'm repeating myself now... Ok, here's a new term, I'm blown away 8O

[Jim Holtz]

Curt and I are pleased you're enjoying the Monitors as much as we do! :T

Jim

[NPE]

Hehehe awesome! :P I wish I could enjoy them more now but it's 11pm. Sigh.. The full statements must really be something, and it's so very remarkable the performance for so affordable components! Speechless...

[AdelaaR]

Nice carbon look!

(this comes from someone riding a full black full carbon TT bike, so I know what I'm talking about here ... If those speakers were more aero ... I'd consider mounting them on it in fact lol)

[john trials]

Those look GREAT! I have a set of Statement Monitors that are still bare MDF. When it comes to finishing them (probably never!), I'll have to look into that carbon fiber wrap. That looks really nice.

[impala454]

Thanks! Right here. Crazy, 34$US shipped from Hong Kong and absolutely no issue at all. Other 3M CF sites/stores I saw was about double of that price!

How much did you have to get? I have four monitors and a center I need to "finish". (yeah I realize I could calculate it but don't feel like it :P)

[NPE]

AdelaaR: Yeah I quickly saw some pics of your built on the other thread, looks awesome!

john: thanks! I think if you want a 'permanent' CF, while the CF just by itself is not bad, I'm thinking some superglue around the edges after trimming would make it much more permanent. But I can't recommend it enough, so quick and easy

impala: With the sheet I linked, you can do 2 statement monitors; you wrap it from the side -> front -> side, trim all sides, do the same for the 2nd speaker, and you'll have enough left for the top of the two speakers. If you want to do the entire bottom (you'll have about 2 inch worth of spare to wrap around bottom if you want) and the rear, you'll need another roll or maybe longer rolls if they have I opted just to paint the rear and the inside tunnel with black paint. But like I said, 34$ shipped for 2 speakers, great for the poor man who wants to save time and $$$! 8)

[Dr.EM]

Looks good! I've used adhesive vinyl to finish 2 speaker projects. You should find that the adhesive strength increases over the coming days and weeks. On both however, lines have slowly appeared on the edges, not that the vinyl has peeled, but either the vinyl has shrunk or more likely the wood (MDF/Ply) has expanded and the vinyl hasn't done. If I knew it'd happen I'd have painted the enclosure black underneath along all the edges.

Hopefully this won't happen to you! The front wrap around was a good call for certain, I did this on mine too and that part still looks perfect.

[NPE]

Yeah I hope so... I guess if it does, all I have to do is use crazy glue to permanently glue it in place, but probably won't be necessary.

[NPE]

Just curious to know how much people have experimented with foam in the tunnel? I've been using 0 foam because I didn't have any on hand and it was something that can be added at any time, and found some 1.5 inch foam which fit exactly the tunnel, but they're much too big even using two for the left and right side, I don't know... Seems to do much more harm than good. Even one foam placed on the bottom of the tunn (which I've not tested extensively) didn't seem to improve at all, even maybe sound a little worst...

My room has quite a bit of panels and even a cheap 'futon' made of foam which I've put on the back wall for absorption, and no foam in Monitor tunnels seems to work fantastic! But since these were voiced with the foam and tunnel, I'm wondering if I'm missing something? What would be the negatives of using no foam? And benefits of using foam?

[AdelaaR]

The question about the foam in the tunnels has been asked before and it was stated by Jim & Curt that the originals have foam and that it should be used.
If your back wall is made of foam though, it will not reflect the sound enough and so it might make sense to absorb less sound in the tunnel itself ... there might however be other problems with that ... tunnels have all kinds of effects on sound.
Maybe consider just a thin foam?
Talking about the foam again got me wondering about my own speakers and how they could sound without foam ... I never listened to them without since I installed it right away.
I'll try to have a comparative listening session one of these days with and without foam and I'll report the results back to you

[john trials]

I have full-sized Statements, and I only have the proper foam in two of the four tunnels (one tunnel in each speaker is left bare). It's amazing how much the sound is attenuated when using foam in the tunnels (as you have found). I also have Statement Monitors that I am using for surrounds. No foam in the tunnels on these.

Play around with the foam and do whatever you think sounds good to you.

[NPE]

Yeah I think it's also largely affect by how far the speakers are from the rear wall... Mine are, from back of the speaker to the back wall, I think a good 3 feet in the room, and they're maybe 2 feet away from the side walls, making them about 8-10 feet or so apart. Room is about 17 x 14 wide I think. (behind are 2 inch thick absorbing panels at 45 degrees in corner, right behind speakers, for bass..) Monitors are slightly toed in for the moment, I know they should point straight ahead but they sounded so good as is I didn't want to touch them.. hehehe

So that said, I think the tunnel's foam might be dependent by the room and placement too... And as mentioned by AdelaaR, room treatment also probably affects it... With 2 foams per tunnel, it really reduced the large/deep soundstage... I actually pretty much love it with 0 foam, such a 'big' sound, as I was saying in the reference thread, maybe it's a bit excessive vs regular speakers, but I just love it and think it might have ruined me some :T

But what I was wondering, maybe the wrong sized foam (1.5 inch), even with just 1 on the bottom, maybe was just plain worst than what I think is the recommended 1 inch all of the sides... Anyhow, don't think I'll go look for foam which is quite expensive, and will probably just leave it as is... IMHO, if one 1.5 inch seems detrimental, so would 4x1 inch foam as with the extra volume, probably even worst...

AdelaaR: let us know about your experience with it

[AdelaaR]

I took out the foam yesterday evening and did some listening.
I specifically listened in stereo only using only the full Statements.
At first impression there is indeed a more spacious feeling ... the sound seems to become even more "3D",which makes sense. There's a noticable augmentation of the midrange although it doesn't seem (much) louder ... just more expressed and more complex.
It's amazing how just 2 of these speakers, with just stereo music, can sound like they're full surround material. The diffusers help a lot in this regard, too.
My first feeling is that I like it, but in things as subjective as music, it'll take me at least a few days of listening with and without foam to come to a conclusion. I'll leave the foam out for a few weeks to get used to the sound without and then I'll add it again to see how I feel about it then.

[NPE]

So what is your verdict for the ports? I can't seem to settle on one... It seems to depends on what the listening material is, and also whether or not my projector screen is up and down... Though projector screen, maybe it's all in my mind and doesn't make much of a difference... When it's up (not there) there's some panels behind, but when it's down, maybe it reflects more?

I think generally though I have the ports with no foam which compensates for absorbent treatment on rear wall.

Last week I think it was I thought I had finally found something the Statements Monitors weren't great for; acoustic guitar... Sounded a bit weird, like the guitar was really big and I don't know why exactly just didn't sound as good as I thought it should... But then I hit the 'next' button and everything just snapped 'back' together and it sounded fantastic, as did pretty much every other track on the album... It was just that one song recording that was off, probably from the mic techniques used or mixing (using more the mic from the guitar instead of outside mics??). So again the Monitors are just fantastic for everything I throw at them...

[Jim Holtz]

No foam in the "port", just the mid tunnel. Adjust it to taste. Curt and I liked it about 2" back from the inside front baffle with a 45 degree taper. YMMV...

Jim

[AdelaaR]

So what is your verdict for the ports? I can't seem to settle on one... It seems to depends on what the listening material is, and also whether or not my projector screen is up and down... Though projector screen, maybe it's all in my mind and doesn't make much of a difference... When it's up (not there) there's some panels behind, but when it's down, maybe it reflects more?

Tunnels, not ports
I still have the tunnels free of foam at this time and I'm getting very used to the sound and I like it very much.
I should put the foam back in one of these to compare.
A screen does make a difference ... and my screen is a 9mm MDF screen that takes up nearly all the space between the Statements, so it matters quite a lot for the bacl reflections in the middle.
For music I always pull my screen up.

[AdelaaR]

You mentioned acoustic guitar and that's one of my favourites.
I find Phil Keaggy to sound excellent on mine

[NPE]

haha nice catch ports... pfft lol

Thx for Phil! Listened to a few songs of his definitely does not seem bad! Don Ross, Bensusan, Micheal Hedges, Peppino D'Agostino, all worth checking out! :T

[AdelaaR]

He's often categorized as "christian music" because he made some and he has some heavier work which I don't specifically like, but his classic guitar stuff is simply mindblowing.
Note that he's got only 4 fingers on his picking hand ... but is still one of the best fingerpickers in the world!
He lost his finger in a circular saw I believe ... may be he was making DIY speakers
Never heard of "Bensusan" ... wil check out.

[Evil Twin]

Any other recommendations?

You mentioned acoustic guitar and that's one of my favourites.
I find Phil Keaggy to sound excellent on mine

I have "Lights of Madrid" and "Beyond Nature" in my meditation sphere- do you have any other recommendations to share?

[joeybutts]

These look amazing and have me ready to pull the trigger on the carbon fiber. I was always hesitant cause of the cost of the "real" product, but at this price point and your review, I'm ready to get 'er done.

Fantastic job.

[AdelaaR]

I have "Lights of Madrid" and "Beyond Nature" in my meditation sphere- do you have any other recommendations to share?

Definately try "acoustic sketches" (1&2)
"Music to paint by" is also nice.

[joeybutts]

May I ask how you wrapped the cabinets? Is there a seam on the back? Bottom? Or did you do it in two pieces so seams are on the corners? Just trying to decide where to put the seams......

[NPE]

oh thx! I bought a 100'' roll by 24'' I think it was, so that was enough for the two speakers; top, the sides and front. So the sides and front are one piece, I left a little spare for underside and just folded it downwards, so no real seam down and fine when on stands, and for the top, well, seams in front/sides/corners. The back was just painted black. For where the drivers are, simply using a hair dryer will make the CF really flexible and easily 'molded' to fit the recess for the drivers

Pierre Bensusan:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPJ5dosLuEQ Tribute piece for Micheal Hedges
http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/Kadourimdou/2MHfJ7?src=5