Shadows First sub

[Shadow2121]

So this was actually finished back in Nov. While I had it assembled and used it since July. It's a Dayton 15" HF with a 500W O-Audio plate amp. Outside Dimensions 22.5 X 23 X 24. Has one window brace across the center, R-16 yellow insulation on 4 sides, and spike feet. Finish was inspired by another member here, a Wilson Art Laminate I believe its call Madagascar.

How does it sound? Good. Great? In my opinion no. But maybe I'm expecting too much. In my frustration of not understanding Winisd, I pulled the trigger and came up with a measurements out of some preset calculator I had found on some site. Am I disappointed? Not at all. I was sick of reading and had to get my hands dirty. But I think I'ld do it differently and I want more haha. I also am not sure of how to use the O-Audio amp correctly. It's all kind of foreign to me still.

But with this building bug I have, I ordered and am receiving tomorrow my first actual speaker set. Starting simple with a set of TriTrix since they are pretty cheap(125$). I would love to have the finish match, but I don't believe I can get laminate to bend around a 3/4 round over. Does it make that much of a difference to have the baffle edge squared?

[---k---]

It looks great. :T

What doesn't sound right? I'm assuming that is sealed? Not having run the numbers, but I would guess sealed that volume would be good. Room positioning has a HUGE effect on a subwoofer. Way more than speakers. Might try the "crawl method" to get it into a better location. If it isn't sounding good, maybe something is wrong that we can help you with.

[---k---]

I would love to have the finish match, but I don't believe I can get laminate to bend around a 3/4 round over. Does it make that much of a difference to have the baffle edge squared?

Yes and no. People argue over this. IIRC, Loudspeaker Cookbook says there is no difference. Models show there is.

You want the finish to match the sub. How bendable is that laminate? Lots of people have gotten wood veneers to bend around 3/4. It wouldn't match, but people have used solid wood baffles or quarter round to get the roundover. Or triple thick baffle with 1.5" roundover. :wink:

I wouldn't get to worked up about leaving the round over out. Bigger issues to solve first.

[baniels]

Hardwood radius corners are a good idea - find a wood that compliments the laminate.

You could also do a chamfer instead of a radius as a compromise and keep everything flat.

If you have any scraps leftover you could do some tests -- see how small of a radius you can pull off. You will certainly need to heat the laminate up.

[fbov]

I have a 15" sub, sealed and run by the Oaudio amp, and I have to wonder about all these folks who want more... the one time I actually saw it move enough to be a blur, I jumped out of my seat. (a commercial with low bass and high avergage level came on while watching properly mixed (i.e. high dynamic range) concert video). Certainly enough capability...

You say Dayton 15 HF so I assume you really mean the RSS390HF? Having sim'ed it before, you should have a very capable unit. F3 of 34Hz and an F10 ~20Hz. Unless your room is much larger, you should also see lots of room gain.

That leads to amp set-up. Assuming you've read the vendor documentation, what setting are you using for the SSF? I use 16 Hz in a 22x15x8' room. Mfr's data for 12Hz has a little bump at 12 Hz, and that seems to be the wrong place to put a bump in response, sucking up power right where you're excursion limited.

And finally placement... Ryan mentioned the crawl method, it works if you can live with the resulting placement.

HAve fun,
Frank

[onyxbfly]

I have nothing to add that would help with your initial query. But I would like to add that I love that finish and that I will be finishing my speakers using the same laminate. I was motivated by the same pics and inspired by the nectar of gods as well.........

Do you have any more pictures of your sub?

[impala454]

Looks great, and so does that Cap'n Morgan's Private Stock

[deewan]

The Wilsonart will not bend around that tight of a radius. It won't even come close. I know from experience.

Image not available

One thing you could look into... a while ago I did see online where you can order some of the Wilsonart's laminate without the backing board. Which means just the design portion and that is pretty thin and flexible. I don't know if you can order all their designs like that, but it would be work looking into if you want the rounded baffles.

Another idea I had once was to use a table saw and a jig (for safety) and use a kerf-like cut to remove most of the backing from the Wilsonart to allow it to bend more. Could be tricky, but could also be easy once the correct depth is determined.

Now, lets all get back to some drinking.

[Jayhrc51]

The Wilsonart will not bend around that tight of a radius. It won't even come close. I know from experience.

Use a heat gun, you can bend laminent. I've personally bent it around 3/4" radius and I've seen tighter radius done.

[deewan]

Use a heat gun, you can bend laminent. I've personally bent it around 3/4" radius and I've seen tighter radius done.

This laminate has a lot of backing. To get this to bend you would need to remove some of that backing material. That's why I'm sure wilsonart offers some of their laminates without the backing.

[Jayhrc51]

What type of backing is applied? I'm not sure that I've ever seen a plastic laminate with a backing applied. Is this laminate designed/used for something other than counter tops?

[CADman_ks]

The Wilsonart will not bend around that tight of a radius. It won't even come close. I know from experience.

Image not available

Who really cares what will and won't bend, when you have Crown? 8)

[onyxbfly]

As taken from the Wilsonart Spec Sheet.


Recommended Uses:
Wilsonart Laminate is suitable for use on fine quality residential and contract furniture, fixtures and casework, and also for architectural application on columns, wainscoting, valances, cornices, interior
doors and divider systems.

General Purpose (HGS) Type 107 is most frequently used for work surfaces on counters, islands, vanities, desks and tables. Typical vertical uses include surfacing for wall panels, teller cages and the front panels of workstations, such as those in hospitals, airports and restaurants.

Type 107 is produced for both horizontal and vertical interior applications where the surface must be functional, durable and decorative.

Vertical Surface (VGP) Type 335 is the usual choice to surface cabinet walls, doors and drawer panels. It often appears on the vertical surfaces of desks, restaurants booths and maitre d’ stations, and as architectural cladding. Type 335 is intended for vertical applications where a functional, durable, decorative surface must absorb somewhat less impact than a comparable horizontal surface. VGP surfaces may be postformed to achieve radiused edges.

Postforming (HGP) Type 350 adds the decorative capability of a soft edge to any typical laminate use. Common applications of postforming laminates are formed edges for counters, desktops, cabinet doors and drawer panels. Type 350 is intended for use on vertical and horizontal interior surfaces where it is necessary or desirable to roll the laminate on a simple radius over the edge of the substrate. This eliminates seams and leaves an attractive surface.

They say it can be done. But you would have to specify what grade before ordering as it it clearly wouldn't be the regular grade.

Perhaps removing the backing and or kerfing as Deewan suggest. Or ordering it sans backing would be your best bet. Or if you order the edge banding which is actually designed to to adhere to radiuses etc.

[Shadow2121]

Yes Frank that is the Sub I have. It is sealed. It works fine. I think after going to to probably too many heavy metal concerts I just set my expectations too high. Realizing the only sub Ive ever had was a baby HTIB one. And I want to better understand what you're talking about and asking. But I haven't grasped it all yet. Any recommendation on an audio for dummies read?

I will be trying the crawl method. Once I rearrange my living room. The thing is a beast, and I'm a single guy. So I gotta wait for help.

Yes Deewan I couldn't find your picture earlier but those are the speakers that inspired this! And Deewans right, I'm not sure this stuff would bend around a 2' radius, let alone a 3/4"

I'll get in touch with them to see if they have anything available that could work. Or maybe even see if they can send me a sample. I'm not going to lie, I don't even want to attempt to scrape off the backing, especially with my table saw haha.

I'll post a couple more pics soon.

[Jayhrc51]

Order a sample piece of what you plan to use, build a jig to clamp the material allowing for overhang of about 50%. Put a 1/2" or 3/4" radius on the top edge. Apply heat with a heat gun, see if it bends to meet your radius requirement. If it works, great. If not, it didn't cost you anything. It's gotta be hot, but once you hit the right temp you may be surprised just how much laminent will bend. I know I was surprised the first time I saw it done.

Either way, using sample won't cost you anything to try it.