General questions - Stentorians

[Brendan_L]

I'm nearing cabinet completion on the Stentorians.
I have decided to go with a double thick baffle using 3/4" ply.

I started from the first front baffle and went from there. Glue, clamp, wait, repeat.

Since I can't add the chamfer after the fact, should I make the driver openings larger on the inner front baffle to account for a simulated chamfer? They aren't glued together yet, no holes have been routed.

I think I also have a router bit that is an inverted V shape, I can probably open up the driver holes with that.

Also what are people using to seal the drivers? I have rope caulk but with 14 holes that will be a bit of a pain. Any one use weather stripping? Is there something even better?

Thanks,

Brendan

[---k---]

Cut the holes so that the drivers fit correctly. Go to Lowes (or wherever) and buy a $10 wood rasp. It will take you only a five or so minutes on each holes with a rasp to chamfer the back. I've done it on a few projects. It might be a little (a lot) more work on the Sentorians, because of the number of holes, but it won't be too bad. Probably easier than the other solutions.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_219789-273-WC1CMN_0__?productId=3399774&Ntt=wood+rasp&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwood%2Brasp&facetInfo=

Also note, the drivers on the Stens have a much more open back because of the little neo magnets, so it is less important to chamfer the back side. Still is good to do, but this makes doing it by hand will make it even easier.

[---k---]

Oh and yes, I use weather stripping on all my projects. It works well. The Marine grade from Home Depot has better adhesive and I find easier to install.

[CADman_ks]

...

Also what are people using to seal the drivers? I have rope caulk but with 14 holes that will be a bit of a pain. Any one use weather stripping? Is there something even better?
...

I asked Curt this very question. He said that he uses the 3/16" x 3/8" grey foam weatherstrip for gaskets. It compresses to nothing. I used the exact same stuff, and he's right, it compresses down to "0" thickness, so you don't even need to compensate on your rebate depth. I put it on the speakers, and not the rebates. That seemed like a lot easier way to do it, but he said that you can do it on either the speaker or rebate.

One thing, though, that I found out about this seal. Once you put it on there, and then install the speakers, good luck getting it out!! I wanted to take my speakers back out to do a little more finishing on the cabinet, I could NOT pry them babies out of there! If I ever have to change one, it will most likely need to be sacrificed. Maybe the foam tape stuck to the spray paint that I put on the openings so that you couldn't see any "white" of the MDF, but I let that dry for 2 days before I put speakers in, so I don't know what happened.

To echo what ---k--- said about the backs, I didn't have a chamfer bit quite big enough, so I just put the biggest round over I had on there. It helps, but these speakers are pretty open on the back, and could probably get by without it, but it can't hurt.

I still haven't got to hear mine in the shop!! I'm waiting on some stupid binding posts (that I forgot the first order. ARGH...:M) to finish up my crossovers...

Good luck!!!

CADman_ks

[---k---]

I still haven't got to hear mine in the shop!! I'm waiting on some stupid binding posts (that I forgot the first order. ARGH...:M) to finish up my crossovers...

Good luck!!!

CADman_ks

You don't need binding posts to listen to them! Just pull the wires out the back and twist the speaker wire together. Good enough for testing. During testing of my projects, I've had some odd wire arrangements....

You could worry about temporarily sealing the holes where the binding posts are (I've used socks), but considering that this is just a test and the box is actually aperondic, don't worry about it for now. Get listening!

[CADman_ks]

You don't need binding posts to listen to them! Just pull the wires out the back and twist the speaker wire together. Good enough for testing. During testing of my projects, I've had some odd wire arrangements....

You could worry about temporarily sealing the holes where the binding posts are (I've used socks), but considering that this is just a test and the box is actually aperondic, don't worry about it for now. Get listening!

LOL!!!

Yeah, I know, and I HAVE listened to them in the house, just not in the shop. I could listen to them on the floor in the shop, but I don't want to hang them until they are completely done, since each one weighs 60lbs complete. I only want to hang those puppies one time!

It IS getting harder and harder to wait every day though!!! I could be tempted!!!

CADman_ks

[Brendan_L]

Another quickie:
I can't find dimensions for the rear opening to access the crossovers?
I can punt obviously but I can't find any specs.

[CADman_ks]

Another quickie:
I can't find dimensions for the rear opening to access the crossovers?
I can punt obviously but I can't find any specs.

I punted. I made mine so that I could basically get my XO boards in there. Even then, I had to angle mine a little bit to get them in there, but they did fit.

Here's a screen shot of where I ended up. These dimensions are all from the OUTSIDE of the cab, and you may have made your cabs different than I made mine, so if you did, just make sure that you dims are calculated from the outside, and you'll be fine.



CADman_ks

[CADman_ks]

XO board size...

I forgot to mention this in my last post.

If you go to Curt's website and print out a full size copy of the image that he has for the XO, it is the perfect size. All of the components are full size on there, and it gives you a good idea of how to lay them out.

That board is about 5" x 6.5". You can actually fit the 6.5" dimension thru the hole size that I have, even though it's only 5" wide. I actually made my boards a little bit bigger than the original layout, about 6.5" x 7", but then I put my binding posts directly on there. That way, I had it all on one board, and it worked out well. My board was actually plenty big, and I could have made it smaller if I would have needed to...

CADman_ks