Couple of questions on angled/sloped baffles and joints

[sorue]

I plan on doing an avalon-inspired clone (yes another one of those clones) and appreciate all the help i can get

I've read almost all of JonMarsh's threads as he's the godfather of avalon . Unfortunately i don't have his skills and don't have access to the same kind of equipment.

I have a 7 1/4" circular saw, router, orbital sander, drill. I'm in the planning phase right now deciding on the angles and cuts.

My questions are:
1) How should the braces be positioned? Parallel to the sloped front and back, or parallel to the top and bottom panel? The cabinet will have a 10 degree slope. I am thinking that the first option will be easier since i don't have repeatedly cut the angles for all the joints of the braces?

2) I plan on using dados to position the braces. But i haven't done this before, so what's the best way to do this? I have trouble thinking how to mark out the dados accurately since the front and back are sloped. Is it only a matter of making sure the angles are spot on and then marking out the distance, or is there an easier way?

3) How can i glue up the angled joints without too much of a mess? I'd imagine the joints being really prone to slipping. Do i need special jigs to do this or is there a clamp that does this easily?

4) Probably the biggest thing on my mind - getting a flush cabinet. Since the front baffle is so thick (4.5"), i can't use the flush trim router bit trick, can i? Is there another method i can use and avoid the tedious bondo+sanding? I only have a small random orbital sander and the last time i used the sanding method, it was aggravating.

5) Regarding cutting of the side panels, is the easiest way to cut the top and bottom with the angle i want?

6) Any particularly efficient glue-up sequence?

edit: Oh, and any specific measurement/marking tools i should be getting? I'm thinking of getting a combination square and speed square. Are these good enough?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002255O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUNEU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Anything else that will be useful? Do i really Starrett-level tools?

Any other useful tips/tricks that you guys have when you did your angled/sloped baffles and cabinets would be really really helpful. Sorry about the silly questions, i'm still quite new to all this. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

[CADman_ks]

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Anything else that will be useful? Do i really Starrett-level tools?
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First, I am no master speaker builder by any means, since I've only built one set, and they're not complete yet. But, I've done enough other wood working and project building that I have a decent sense of what's required.

I personally don't see the need for Starrett-level tools. We have them at work, and while they are nice, they are no more square than my cheap old $10 combi-square is square. Before I started this project, I actually was at HarborFreight (HF), and picked up their 12" and 24" combi squares. I picked them up mostly for metal working. They are cheap, and if something happens to them, I don't care. However, I've checked both of them, and they are square. I actually used the 24" in building my cabs, and everything came out, so it must not be that far off. But, in the end, the HF stuff IS cheap, feels cheap, and it doesn't operate as smoothly as some other stuff, and the Starrett's.

I'm not big on most HF tools, but there are some that are not that bad, and get the job done for what you need them to do, and they typically cost you a lot less money. If you have a HF store in your area, that's the best way to check them out. Go there, and see what the tools look like, and then decide if it's good enough.

Northern Tool is another company that has some better quality "cheap" tools.

Another tool that you might want to consider is a framing square. Something that's nice and big and square, either for marking or checking squareness.

For me, if I was going to do precision measuring, I would use a combination of a combi-square and $25 caliper to get the number where I want, using the caliper to set the measurement on the combi-square. Then use the combi-square just for drawing the lines. I use calipers all the time for wood working. Probably not typically what most people think of as a wood working tool.

Here's a digital model for $25:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200496074_200496074

I'm partial to dial calipers, because they never run out of batteries. Here's a model for less than $25:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308975_200308975

This is just my $.02, and others opinions may differ...

CADman_ks

[CADman_ks]

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For me, if I was going to do precision measuring, I would use a combination of a combi-square and $25 caliper to get the number where I want, using the caliper to set the measurement on the combi-square.
...

I actually saw at HarborFreight today that they have a DIGITAL 6" caliper for $17! Of course, this really only helps you if you have a HF store local to you. Otherwise, you have to pay shipping.

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchandising-promotions/merchandising/2012-ise/spring-super-savings/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

If it only works for a little while, it's a killer deal!

CADman_ks