How to fill gaps in speaker box?

[riceaterslc]

If this is in the wrong forum, I apologize. I did a search, but came up with nothing.

When constructing my RS TMWW speakers I ran into this snag. When placing the face piece of the speaker onto the rest of the box (side and internal braces) a gap was created about 1/8" between the two.

The box is sealed, since the face piece is 2 x 3/4" MDF sheets glued together, so the gap is only cosmetic.

I was thinking I could use drywall filler or wood glue to fill the gap. What do you guys think? I plan on finishing the speaker off with truck bed liner (I move about once a year, want something durable).

I'll try and snap of shot of it when I get home tonight.

What are you guy's thoughts? Thanks h:

[mattsk8]

Bondo works really well but you need to apply one coat, sand and let it dry and shrink, then put on at least one more coat and finish sand it. Usually it takes about 3 coats to get a real good finish. The 3rd coat is generally just filling in pits or little dips.

Drywall mud works pretty good too but it's always prone to denting or getting scratched. Is this going to be veneered or painted? If painted I'd say bondo, if veneered I think drywall mud would work and that would be the easiest route.

[---k---]

Agreed. I've used Bondo and it works well. Minwax also sells a wood repair product that is basically Bondo. Wood glue mixed with fine sawdust into a paste would work. Wood putty would also be high on my list. I haven't used dry wall mud on a speaker. I agree it would be soft and likely not the best.

[fbov]

... When placing the face piece of the speaker onto the rest of the box (side and internal braces) a gap was created about 1/8" between the two....

Normally, I suggest you make sure the box is the one that's flat and square, then use clamps... I've used hardwood panels for baffles several times, and they always warp a little or have a little bow to them I can't plane out.

Of course, if the glue is already dry....

Have fun,
Frank

[riceaterslc]

thanks for the quick replies guys, seems bondo is the the best solution.

i will be using truck bed liner as the finish.

here are a couple shots of what i'm dealing with

Normally, I suggest you make sure the box is the one that's flat and square, then use clamps... I've used hardwood panels for baffles several times, and they always warp a little or have a little bow to them I can't plane out.

i did a test fit with all the pieces before glue, and didn't take into account the wood expanding. could have also been the humidity since i'm in georgia. oh well, lesson learned and luckily i corrected it before assembling the other speaker :T

thanks again fellas.

[fbov]

Just a thought... with a parallel gap like that, the best filler is a thin strip of MDF, so you're only filling seams with bondo/filler.
Frank

[Mrpictureman]

I had a similar situation where I wished I could just take the piece off and re-glue it, so I did. I found this handy tool http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G10 that worked perfect for me. I was able to use the blade on the tool in the picture and it came off really easy. Be forewarned it worked really well for me, (cut right through the glue a little sanding and brand new again), but I can't vouch for your skills or results.