Angled speaker cabinet build thread?

[Greybeard191]

I've order all the Ansonica build parts, and am planning out a build. I've seen two build threads, CJD's original, and the curved Ansonica build.

I'm not wood-working saavy enough to do either of those. I'm looking at a simpler build with simple rabbets (with corner inserts for chamfers) or hardwood overlays for front, back, top, and bottom to achieve the chamfer angles required, and the tilt-back angle (6" back on 34" vertical, 34.5" diagonal). I've tried veneering a couple of times and had nothing but problems, so I don't think I'd try that again... regardless, veneering or a hardwood overlay, you still need to "achieve" the same angles.

I can do the side chamfer easily enough with a router, but the top (front and back) and bottom (front and back) have me a little stumped.

I've poked around, but does anyone know of any good threads that explain how to achieve these kind of angles easily using the tools I have:
1) Router
2) simple router table with a fence
3) compound sliding miter saw - 12"

The best I can come up with is to get the angles as close as possible with the saw, cut slightly proud, and sand it down by hand.

Is there a better way?

GB

[yzracer14]

The best way would be if you had access to a table saw. Friend or neighbor that can let you borrow one, or at least do the cutting for you?

There are jigs you could come up with to do this work for you with the tools you have, but the jigs themselves would also need to be made with the very same tools...

It may not be what you want to hear but I would get a table saw first before starting any of it. IMO it will drastically reduce the difficulty. At the very least a circular saw will do well with a good straight edge.

I just envision using the miter saw for the cuts like my first time cutting crown molding; making a simple cut sounds easy, but before you know it, scrapped pieces are being launched through the garage with a bit of profanity tossed in for good measure.

I hope I've helped.
~TJ

[cjd]

For the kind of work you are describing, I have to agree - that's a table saw. And ideally one with plenty of space and a sliding table or sled.

If you know what you are doing and are extremely careful, you may be able to achieve your results with a circular saw.

I did all the chamfers on mine, including the top, with a router and a 1.25" chamfer bit (not cutting full depth most of the time, of course). I did all the work smoothing the joints with 60 grit and an orbital sander (where they weren't 90 degrees.) Patience can get you there. If you're layering hardwood over, a sharp hand-plane, or even a power plane and lots of care, can also get you there.

C

[Greybeard191]

I can probably wangle access to a table saw, but I'm not sure how it would help with these particular angles.

CJD, how exactly did you manage to use a router to do the top chamfer? Were you sitting the router on the front baffle or the top of the speaker, and how did you manage (in either case) to get the bit close enough to the front baffle to cut the chamfer? I'm thinking the pilot bearing would "push" the bit away from the baffle.

GB

[cjd]

It took about 8 passes to do the top, for one. I have a custom router base I made with 1/2" birch that's about 18" wide, but all to one side (so one handle is a router handle, one is a handle bolted to the new base). I use this for edge routing.

In this case, the router was laid against the baffle, and the guide bearing rides on the top well enough to do the job.

Perhaps we're not quite speaking the same language at the moment, because I'm not sure what you're describing or how it might push away from the baffle.

[ModMark]

Panel cutting guides

The best way would be if you had access to a table saw.

There are jigs you could come up with to do this work for you with the tools you have, but the jigs themselves would also need to be made with the very same tools...

~TJ

Concerning cutting MDF with a circular saw...

The best saw guide I found and use, take a 4x8 sheet of masonite board and cut off ~4". This cut does not have not precision, the factory edge will serve as the straight edge for the circular saw.

Next cut ~12" off the masonite board and once again, this does have to be a precision cut. Glue the 4" piece to it. Now run your saw thru the guide to cut off the excess masonite board.

Note: the guide is "calibrated" to a specific blade.

Here is a link but I recommend using masonite which provides a slippery material for the saw.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497

[Greybeard191]

It took about 8 passes to do the top, for one. I have a custom router base I made with 1/2" birch that's about 18" wide, but all to one side (so one handle is a router handle, one is a handle bolted to the new base). I use this for edge routing.

In this case, the router was laid against the baffle, and the guide bearing rides on the top well enough to do the job.

Perhaps we're not quite speaking the same language at the moment, because I'm not sure what you're describing or how it might push away from the baffle.

So your router sits on the baffle, and the bearing rides on the top. Doesn't this have the effect of pushing the router "away" (horizontally) from the top? Because the top angled away from the baffle?

Maybe it isn't an issue... maybe the angle is small enough that it ultimately doesn't make much of a difference.

GB

[cjd]

No more than anything else - in order to move away, the bit would have to move down, which is impossible because the router is rather firmly attached to the base, which is on the baffle. You have to apply a very tiny bit more downward pressure than normal, perhaps, because it's more likely that sideways pressure would cause the bit to want to walk up. But it's close to 90° so this isn't much of a problem.

[yzracer14]

I can probably wangle access to a table saw, but I'm not sure how it would help with these particular angles.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. Why don't you think it would help? With a material cutlist and good planning, there shouldn't be that much of an issue. Make some test cuts, take your time, and I think you'll be suprised.