Give me your opinion on finishing my HT builds...

[joeybutts]

I am heavily leaning toward the following paint scheme-

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I'm not sure how it would be oriented, but I think I am sold on the candy paint red and black.....though not sure if I should go with flat black or matte black or satin or gloss or.....

[Hdale85]

Why not CF vinyl wrap the front of the speakers with the candy apple cabinet?

[impala454]

I'm a big fan of the red & black

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[bmaupin]

Not quite candy ...

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[impala454]

Man, those look awesome! Very nice job!! They're so glossy!

[joeybutts]

B, those are BEAUTIFUL. What's your process? I've painted three cabinets so far and I'm getting close to that kind of professional finish, but not quite.

They look like candy to me.... like over sized jolly ranchers. Yummy. Thanks for sharing and that pushes me even more to something like satin black and candy red.

H - I would love to do Carbon Fiber but it is just a touch to over the top for what I am aiming. I might get some CF in my Mustang build though!!

[---k---]

I already cast my vote: CJD inspired raw, unfinished wood.


What ever you choose, I'm sure it will be awesome. Remember though, what looks good on small speakers sometimes gets a little gaudy on something this big. So go easy on the flash. I'm not sure what you're using the black for, full baffle or just accent? I think a full black baffle would be too monochromatic. For accent black, I would try and match the cones on the rs drivers or the RS28. Good luck.

[pomeroy250]

I've built several in red . These are Duplicolor rattle cans. Medium Garnet Red and Cherry Red with Deft clear coat.

[joeybutts]

I've built several in red . These are Duplicolor rattle cans. Medium Garnet Red and Cherry Red with Deft clear coat.

Those are fantastic looking loudspeakers. I can't believe that first one was done with duplicolor rattle can. Was there something else used under/in that? I love it. Absolutely love it and is just about the shade I'm going for.....

[pomeroy250]

Primer is Rustoleum Automotive primer (see pic). I lay on 3-4 coats of Duplicolor and let dry for 5 days. Then the work starts. Wet sand w/400 grit then 800 grit , last 1500 or 2000. Use a spray bottle and don't rub so hard esp. 400 grit. Just enough to remove swirls from previos paper.

Apply clear lacquer and repeat process except end up with Meguirs X20 scratch remover ( I use this stuff on everthing , don't waste your time and money on other brands) and a micro fiber towel.

[Hdale85]

B, those are BEAUTIFUL. What's your process? I've painted three cabinets so far and I'm getting close to that kind of professional finish, but not quite.

They look like candy to me.... like over sized jolly ranchers. Yummy. Thanks for sharing and that pushes me even more to something like satin black and candy red.

H - I would love to do Carbon Fiber but it is just a touch to over the top for what I am aiming. I might get some CF in my Mustang build though!!

It wouldn't be real CF, it's a vinyl you can get and you can get it in quite a few styles. I think it would look great though. I know I saw someone that used it on a speaker but having a hard time finding it now. I've been thinking about it for some time as well for just the baffle.

This is some of the higher end vinyl material

http://www.decalfx.com/carbon_2_sheets.html

Something else that might look even better with that glossy of a finish on the sides would maybe be to use real CF, and instead of finishing it super glossy like it usually is sand it with a high grit sand paper so it's sort of a matte finish. Might be out of budget though. To get that candy finish on your speakers you're definitely going to want to get them sprayed by a car body shop I'd say.

[joeybutts]

Hmmmmm.....that is a good idea too......I was also considering the 3M Di-Noc.

I do have a question though. If I were to paint the entire cabinet, how do you go about painting the whole thing? 5 sides at a time? Or would I have to fabricate a stand?

[joeybutts]

Alright guys....let me know what you think. I drew up a few ideas for the finish. I'm going to list them from my least favorite to most favorite.

Whatever you do...DON'T HOLD BACK.

1.



2.



3.



4.



5.



6.



7.



8.

[Hdale85]

I think the ones where the baffle is the only part that is a different color would work best if you had a bolted on baffle that was on top of the main color.

[joeybutts]

I don't have bolted on baffle though.....my cabinets are all one piece.....

[Hdale85]

I don't know, wouldn't be hard to add, but then might make issues, the only one I really like is the first one haha.

[pomeroy250]

Alright guys....let me know what you think. I drew up a few ideas for the finish. I'm going to list them from my least favorite to most favorite.

Whatever you do...DON'T HOLD BACK.

First off I would continue your routing on the corners all the way to the top. It is too distracting having it stop there.

Secondly I would use a plinth base. (see pic)

As for color scheme I had similar decision when I built these. (again see pic)

If you are going to paint the front baffle anything other than black make sure your cutouts are absolutely perfect or your eyes will be draw to imperfections. Make sure you have enough paint on edges and you don't chip them when installing drivers.

[---k---]

I like #3 best.

[joeybutts]

Hahah thanks Hdale! It would be tough to add it on now since I've already done the roundover up the side......

pom - I really like the roundover detail....You think it is distracting? I think it focuses your attention to the drivers, encapsulating them kind of......I didn't think of a plinth base. How is that done? Just two sheets of wood stacked and then attach it to the bottom with screws? It's too late for me to be able to put some kind of bolts through the bottom of the cabinet

Currently the flush cuts are perfect. I do need to open the holes about a 1/16th of an inch as the drivers JUST fit in their flush cutouts.

Ryan - did you like how the front baffle paint flows onto the roundover on the sides but not up the square parts? I wasn't sure how that flowed. It isn't a traditional baffle/cabinet two tone. I didn't draw one where the entire front baffle is one color and the cabinet another....I might have to add those two.....

[Hank]

I sort of like #4. I've built a few and have seen many cabs with black baffles and veneer sides (#3), so I like the different look of #4. If you do veneer/wood baffles, heed pomeroy250's advice re driver cutouts. Have fun!

[pomeroy250]

I didn't think of a plinth base. How is that done? Just two sheets of wood stacked and then attach it to the bottom with screws? It's too late for me to be able to put some kind of bolts through the bottom of the cabinet


Currently the flush cuts are perfect. I do need to open the holes about a 1/16th of an inch as the drivers JUST fit in their flush cutouts.

You got it. One piece just a bit smaller than base on top of a larger piece extending out on all sides. 4 long wood screws would be fine. The idea is to make the speaker appear to be floating.


How are you going to make the cutouts bigger?

[joeybutts]

Thanks Hank! No veneer though I did consider a long time ago. I really like this paint scheme.

Pom - I'll have to think about that....

By hand with 80 grit and a square edge. I had to do that with another project that needed a little massaging and they stayed within round. Do you have a method you would use?

[pomeroy250]

Thanks Hank! No veneer though I did consider a long time ago. I really like this paint scheme.

Pom - I'll have to think about that....

By hand with 80 grit and a square edge. I had to do that with another project that needed a little massaging and they stayed within round. Do you have a method you would use?

It's a bit tricky but I've done successfully several times.

Assuming you used a circle jig for a router or similar. If you have the original cutouts place them in the hole and center them using drill bits the same diameter as the router bit. They should fit snug in the gap. This will give you perfect alignment for a resizing. Use screws in the gap if needed.

You will never get a perfect circle by sanding.

[---k---]

Ryan - did you like how the front baffle paint flows onto the roundover on the sides but not up the square parts? I wasn't sure how that flowed. It isn't a traditional baffle/cabinet two tone. I didn't draw one where the entire front baffle is one color and the cabinet another....I might have to add those two.....

I'm an engineer. I don't have an artistic bone in my body. I like clean, simple, and functional. I like my roll-on black enamel and partially finished bases. I'm not the best person to be giving advice here.

[joeybutts]

Hahahhhah. Thanks for the honesty Ryan.

[joeybutts]

Well.....the final crossover parts for my Markk's are coming in and I'll be wrapping up the center channel this weekend.

So getting to that time! I've been heavily leaning toward painting for a long time, but after seeing the DI-NOC in action, I've decided to use that and have been going back and forth on whether to go with just Matte Black on Visitor Messages or Carbon Fiber. I can't decide!!! After wrapping, the entire cabinet would get clear coated.

I wish I wasn't a woman about this.

Just post up one word; Carbon or Matte in this design -

[Hank]

One: Matte

[---k---]

I had to google DI-NOC. It looked to me like it is a sticker that can be made to look like carbon fiber? Can you say Poser! :P

I'm with Hank, Matte.

[joeybutts]

I know I know.......but it looks amazing.....you are the first two out of fifteen to say matte!

I'm pretty sold on carbon fiber, especially after seeing theset wo recent builds -

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=230305

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=230291

[---k---]

Then get some fabric and do CF. :P

[joeybutts]

Then get some fabric and do CF. :P

8O