Methods For Veneering a Curved Surface

[snmhanson]

I am working on some speakers with curved surfaces and am getting close to veneering. In the past builds I used contact cement to lay down the veneer, which was very easy to apply. However, my understanding is that contact cement is not a good idea for veneering as the cement can shift over time causing cracks in the veneer. I put a lot of effort into these and paid a fairly significant sum for some paper backed Macassar Ebony veneer, so I want to do this right.

I am considering using the iron on method. Having never done the iron on method though, I am concerned about how well it will handle the curved surfaces. With contact cement you get immediate adhesion so you can get it to stay down fairly easily. Is it the same with the iron on method or do you need to have a way to keep it clamped down while the glue and veneer cools? Any other advice or methods that would work well? I would love to be able to vacuum bag it, but I don't have the equipment.

Thanks for any advice,

Matt

[soundtrek]

Matt,

The iron-on method works very well. You don't have to clamp the veneer while everything cools. The pressure applied while pressing down during ironing keeps the veneer in it's place. As long as you are not talking about a reverse curve, and the iron can lay relatively flat, you should not have any problems.

I used the iron-on method this summer with fantastic results and it was really easy. I used Heatlock (Google it) brand glue and it works very well. I plan to use the iron-on method on a curve-sided Mini Statements project I will be starting later this year.

Kevin

[Hdale85]

The iron on method worked fine for me as well. The glue is nearly dry when you are applying the veneer, the heat is just heating it enough to get tacky enough to stick on both sides. So when it starts to cool it's pretty much instantly bonded.

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll give the iron on method a try. I'll do some test runs with some scrap veneer first to make sure I've got it down, but seems simple enough.

Thanks again,

Matt

[snmhanson]

I went out today to get the adhesive and other supplies so I can tackle the veneer job this weekend. I couldn't find any adhesive made specifically for veneering so I picked up a gallon of Titebond II. Will that work well for me or should I look for something else? I know the original Titebond, or the white Titebond, is supposed to be more user friendly but they only had Titebond II or III at the store I went to. Should I make the effort to find something else or just go for it with the Titebond II?

Thanks for any advice.

Matt

[soundtrek]

I highly recommend Heatlock - http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...neer-Glue.html

Thin glue line and specifically made for iron-on veneering.

[peepaj]

I've used both titebond II and III, both worked for me.

[Johnnz]

I went out today to get the adhesive and other supplies so I can tackle the veneer job this weekend. I couldn't find any adhesive made specifically for veneering so I picked up a gallon of Titebond II. Will that work well for me or should I look for something else? I know the original Titebond, or the white Titebond, is supposed to be more user friendly but they only had Titebond II or III at the store I went to. Should I make the effort to find something else or just go for it with the Titebond II?

Thanks for any advice.

Matt

When I was deciding what to use, I read a couple of threads where people claimed they got good results with Titebond II for iron on veneering. I ended up using Heatlock glue but due to the expense (shipping overseas), if I run out of it I will try the Titebond II in the future.
The main scientific claim of Heatlock's advantage seems to be that it has interlocking polymers (think that is how it is described) that prevent seasonal 'creeping' of the veneer. Not sure if that is a feature of Titebond II or not.
Whatever glue you decide on, make sure you get a small (4") glue roller to ensure even coverage.

[snmhanson]

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll give the Titebond II a try on a test piece and go from there. I have a 4" roller with a bunch of extra foam pads. If I am not comfortable with Titebond II for some reason I'll order some Heatlock on Monday.

Matt

[Hdale85]

Titebond II is a fine alternative, but heatlock is definitely the best I'd say for this method.

[Hank]

I've used contact cement for many speaker veneers and used Heatlock for a couple and saw no advantage to it.

[dar47]

I like iron on as you can control the amount of glue you put on. I find contact is hard to spread evenly and can produce lumps telegraphing through the veneer but does hide joints better. It seems to be more fussy in cool or higher moisture environments (Canada fall or spring).

I'm building some Swoop mtm's with the matching centre and this time I'm covering the MDF with 1/8" hard board to create a harder flatter surface that covers the joints. I'm thinking the corners will be tougher and I can use one thin layer of glue on the sanded hard board surface and one thin layer on the paper backed veneer. Still trying to get that flat commercial production look without investing in a vacuum press and bag which apparently gives the best results. I'm also wondering if the PVA backed veneer on the hard board surface would be the flattest and fastest method, which isn't much more money being a $40 addition to the veneer. On large projects you can spend that on Heat Lock and TB.

I think if you can master a technique and it's repeatable stick with it. I'm still slowly working on the master part so I'll let the group know how this one works out.

[Justaguy]

I used the Titebond II iron on method for my first speaker build and found that it worked ok. The only issue I had was getting it hot enough. I was using a thin towel to keep the iron away from the veneer. I should have used a thinner one.
I saw a chart once, I think it was on Titebonds web site, showing the different properties of their glue. I believe one of the differences is the melting point and the length of time after application that the glue can be remelted. Titebond I has the lowest melting point and III is the highest. In my next project I might try contact cement but stuff that is designed for veneering. The cement at veneering supplies is what I was going to try. From what I have read, the is the possibility that regular contact cement can be broken down at the edges by the solvents in the finish.

Good luck and enjoy,
matt