Equipment advice.

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  • PanteraGSTK
    Junior Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 27

    Equipment advice.

    Hey guys. I finally will soon have the time to start my first build. The only thing is I don't have a table saw or a router. I am trying to stay on a budget so I don't want to go crazy as the speakers will be the only thing these tools get used on unless I build something else in the future.

    I know I need a table saw, clamps and router. I also know that a sled will really help. I've used a table saw in the past on helping with projects, but have never owned one so I don't know what to look for. I know safety features are a must.

    Other than what I've mentioned what do I need?

    Thanks in advance.
  • snmhanson
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 194

    #2
    Don't forget a good circle jig for the router (you could make one). Also, a flush trim, a straight bit and a round over bit at minimum. And, the more clamps the better.

    Matt

    Comment

    • Undefinition
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2006
      • 577

      #3
      You don't need a table saw. In fact, if you're building larger speakers, the panels usually don't fit on a table saw (unless you get a more expensive one). A circular saw + a homemade guide will go a long way.
      PM tells you how to build a your own circular saw guides. The guides are compact for easy storage and most importantly, they can help you work more accurately and safely in the shop.


      (This is how I've had to cut any panels larger than 16")
      Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
      Paul Carmody's DIY Speaker Site

      Comment

      • AdelaaR
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2010
        • 480

        #4
        What undefinition said is also my experience.
        For bigger panels a big table, an aluminum guide, tape measure and two handy clamps combined with a simple circular saw are all you need.
        Unless ofcourse you want to invest in an actual huge size indutrial table saw that can take 250cm panels.
        So basicly you need a router and a circular saw ... that's it.
        All the other things like a circle jig or a sled can easily be made on the fly.
        If you are going to be producing speakers I would advise to invest in serious equipment but if it's just for this one project almost anything will do except the really dirt cheap stuff.

        Comment

        • AdelaaR
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2010
          • 480

          #5
          Another option is to let the panels be cut to size at your local woodshop and then you don't even need a circular saw and the cuts will be extremely accurate.
          The only thing you need then is clamps, router and homemade circle jig.

          Comment

          • PanteraGSTK
            Junior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 27

            #6
            Awesome. I'm glad I don't have to buy a table saw as I'd only use it for this project. I do need a circular saw because I had to borrow one from a friend (I actually borrowed the friend too) to make my riser so it would get use often. I have been looking at some cordless tool sets because mine need to be replaced (about 10 years old), but cordless circular saws are usually pretty wimpy. I like to buy things once so I'd like to get a nice one. I got a good deal on a milwaukee corded drill so I'll take a look at their circular saws. I'll take a look at the DIY jig and sled as I like to do as much myself as possible (which is why I'm in this forum in the forst place).

            Thanks guys.

            EDIT: Fixed base or plunge router?

            Comment

            • Undefinition
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2006
              • 577

              #7
              You can get by with a fixed-base router (I used a borrowed one for my first few projects). However a plunge router makes for more smooth operation and more accurate holes. Sears seems to have pretty good prices on routers pretty regularly.

              You can make your own circle jig. It's a matter of making a router base out of thin plywood or masonite or plastic, then creating a pivot point that's the radius you want to cut. I don't have any good links to plans on circle jigs, but I can try to dig some up if you want. The Jasper circle jig is great when you're totally addicted like us; no guesswork, just stick the pin in the proper hole and route away! But for my first project I refused to buy one because they're expensive and I wasn't sure if I was going to use it more than once.
              Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
              Paul Carmody's DIY Speaker Site

              Comment

              • PanteraGSTK
                Junior Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 27

                #8
                Which model of the Jasper circle jig? That would be best as I plan to build quite a few speakers so I think it would be best to grab one. I think you are referring to the 200, but I would like to make sure.

                Comment

                • Silver1omo
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 430

                  #9
                  Originally posted by PanteraGSTK
                  Which model of the Jasper circle jig? That would be best as I plan to build quite a few speakers so I think it would be best to grab one. I think you are referring to the 200, but I would like to make sure.
                  That would depend on your router
                  Ivan.
                  My Statement monitors

                  Comment

                  • oneplustwo
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2010
                    • 666

                    #10
                    Random orbital sander might be good as well depending on how you're planning on finishing them. Buy a pack of progressively finer sanding discs compatible with your sander as well. I have a porter cable one with a "velcro" pad for the sanding discs. My pack has 80, 120 150, and 220 grit discs.
                    Zaph SR-71
                    Zaph ZDT 3.5
                    Sunflower Redux
                    12" Dayton HF sub
                    CJD RS 150 MT
                    Revelator bookshelf
                    2x12 Guitar cab
                    Corner loaded line array

                    Comment

                    • PanteraGSTK
                      Junior Member
                      • Aug 2009
                      • 27

                      #11
                      I plan to finish everything in a roll on truck bed liner. I don't care too much for aesthetics so I just want something durable and easy to apply. I prefer flat black also. I've suggested it to the wife and she seems OK with it.

                      OT- can anyone suggest a sub build thread for me? I want something simple that can go VERY low (don't we all), but can't seem to find any build threads. Should I just use winISD and go from there?

                      Comment

                      • oneplustwo
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2010
                        • 666

                        #12
                        I would also look at the rustoleum textured stuff. The truck bed liner didn't work as well for me but it's a personal thing. Also, even though it's easy to apply, be sure to make sure your surfaces are consistent. The texture helps hide a lot, but it will still reveal problems with surface prep. A good coat or two of primer would do the trick for the most part. Your exposed MDF edges might need some extra attention.

                        As for the sub:
                        I'm in the process of building this but modified for an external amp:

                        Folks, I'm planning to build John Krutke's (Zaph Audio) sub using the Dayton RSS315HF driver. The design can be found here (look about 1/3 down the page). I noticed that the driver comes in an 8-ohm version as well as the 4-ohm version that everybody seems to be using. Higher impedance...


                        Zaph SR-71
                        Zaph ZDT 3.5
                        Sunflower Redux
                        12" Dayton HF sub
                        CJD RS 150 MT
                        Revelator bookshelf
                        2x12 Guitar cab
                        Corner loaded line array

                        Comment

                        • Undefinition
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2006
                          • 577

                          #13
                          Originally posted by PanteraGSTK
                          Which model of the Jasper circle jig? That would be best as I plan to build quite a few speakers so I think it would be best to grab one. I think you are referring to the 200, but I would like to make sure.
                          I have both the 200 and the 400, and the 400 gets 95% of the work. It's nice because it's about the same size as my router base, so I just leave it on all the time. The only time I use the model 200 is when I have to do holes larger than 7.5", which only happens with subs or big 3-ways.

                          The 200 model is sort of awkward. I already had one break on me when the router accidentally fell off the work surface (onto soft grass, no less!).
                          Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
                          Paul Carmody's DIY Speaker Site

                          Comment

                          • PanteraGSTK
                            Junior Member
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 27

                            #14
                            Originally posted by oneplustwo
                            I would also look at the rustoleum textured stuff. The truck bed liner didn't work as well for me but it's a personal thing. Also, even though it's easy to apply, be sure to make sure your surfaces are consistent. The texture helps hide a lot, but it will still reveal problems with surface prep. A good coat or two of primer would do the trick for the most part. Your exposed MDF edges might need some extra attention.

                            As for the sub:
                            I'm in the process of building this but modified for an external amp:

                            Folks, I'm planning to build John Krutke's (Zaph Audio) sub using the Dayton RSS315HF driver. The design can be found here (look about 1/3 down the page). I noticed that the driver comes in an 8-ohm version as well as the 4-ohm version that everybody seems to be using. Higher impedance...


                            http://www.zaphaudio.com/archives.html
                            Do you have any other suggestions for a good flat black finish? The speakers and sub will all be for an HT that will be dark for the most part. Once that project is finished I'll build some with a nice finish for other rooms.

                            Comment

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