Home Theater Khanspire/In-Khan-Neato Build

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  • BlackHawk2383
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 3

    Home Theater Khanspire/In-Khan-Neato Build

    Hi all, first post here!

    I am in the process of finishing my basement home theater and believe the khanspires are a great fit for my front 3 with In-Khan_Neatos for all the surrounds. The front speakers will be behind a screen and will sit 24" off the floor on top of a 8 x 15 IB array. The space behind the screen is approximately 2 foot so the speakers will not be too far off the rear wall, however it will be lined with at least 1" sound dampening material. I plan to shift the drivers on the baffle so that the tweeter is somewhat centered within the screen. I have tried to read all I can in the build threads I could find on khanspires but that is alot of reading and I could not keep it all straight so I have a few questions. Not to mention ---K--- said in his thread to let him or CJD know if you are building these speakers so you have the latest info!

    1) I LOVE good bass and do still prefer quite loud listening volume; ~100dB is common for music at times. Although I will be integrating these with a decent size IB sub, would there be any recommendation of sealed vs ported as it would relate to high dBs? Is one better than the other for dynamics for HT use?

    2) I have seen a few crossover recommendations for near/on wall placement. What is the latest recommendation or what recommendation would you have for my arrangement?

    3) Are there any crossover changes recommended for behind screen placement?

    4) I plan to use the upgraded BOM for the mid and tweeter but would there be any benefit to using Electrolytic and Polypropylene caps in parallel in the woofer crossover over just Electrolytic?

    I have been looking at the designs on this site for about a year now and am very excited to begin my adventure into DIY speakers.

    Thanks,
    Nick
  • cjd
    Ultra Senior Member
    • Dec 2004
    • 5570

    #2
    what screen? i would minimally recommend using the RS28S behind the screen. With a good sub build all sealed and cross 50 to 60hZ. Go smaller gauge on the woofer series inductors as well.

    I personally don't use electrolytic caps at all.
    diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

    Comment

    • ---k---
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Nov 2005
      • 5204

      #3
      Well, good luck and I hope you like them. It sounds like you're on the right path. I've tried to update the first posts to give you all the information you need. But, feel free to ask. I don't get here as much as I used to, but I try and make sure I keep up with any Khan thread.

      1. If you have an IB. Stick with sealed and cross them around 50hz - 60hz. People have different opinions here, but sealed is how I run, it works great for me, and I don't see much benefit from ported when you have a sub and 8" woofers.

      2. All the crossovers and BOM in the first posts should be good for you. For the surrounds, use the in-wall crossover. Build them like I did.

      3. For behind the screen, you might want to consider using the RS28F - the fabric dome. It has a little rising top end that might compensate for what the screen dampens. I believe the differences are slight, and most of the room correction software like Audyesse and THX likes to roll the top end off, so not sure how critical this is. But something to consider. You can certainly use RS28F at all locations, whether behind the screen or not, without crossover changes. Just slight differences in the top end. Some really like the RS28F better. I haven't heard it.

      4. Yes, there would. How audible would it be? Not sure. Some can't hear the difference between Electrolytic and Poly to begin with. To make good impact, it has been recommended to me to use at least 1/2 the value for each. Another GOOD alternative is to use the Metallized Polyester (yellow ones) caps from Erse. These are priced in between and are good caps. Just build to the value you need.

      I think the using a laminate inductor instead of an air-core for the big 10 mH inductor in the Khans makes a lot of sense. You're not going to get benefit from the air core in this location, so don't spend the money. A cheaper solid core would probably be good enough too.
      - Ryan

      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

      Comment

      • BlackHawk2383
        Junior Member
        • Oct 2009
        • 3

        #4
        Originally posted by cjd
        what screen? i would minimally recommend using the RS28S behind the screen. With a good sub build all sealed and cross 50 to 60hZ. Go smaller gauge on the woofer series inductors as well.

        I personally don't use electrolytic caps at all.
        I haven't decided for sure on a screen yet but would be leaning towards SMX. I figured sealed was probably the way to go but just wanted to hear it again. So would you recommend the RS28F for behind screen as ---K--- pointed out?

        Comment

        • ---k---
          Ultra Senior Member
          • Nov 2005
          • 5204

          #5
          Chris and I must have been typing at the same time.

          RS28S??? I think he hasn't had enough coffee yet this morning.
          - Ryan

          CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
          CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
          CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

          Comment

          • cjd
            Ultra Senior Member
            • Dec 2004
            • 5570

            #6
            Whoops. i was thinking Silk not Fabric but yes. same tweeter recommendation.

            i think i had too much coffee.
            diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

            Comment

            • BlackHawk2383
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 3

              #7
              Originally posted by ---k---
              I think the using a laminate inductor instead of an air-core for the big 10 mH inductor in the Khans makes a lot of sense. You're not going to get benefit from the air core in this location, so don't spend the money. A cheaper solid core would probably be good enough too.
              So the P core listed on the standard BOM would not be your choice? Would any of the ones below be a better choice than the P core in the BOM or do you have another suggestion?

              ESQ55-16-10000
              ELC56-16-10000
              ELC54-19-10000

              Comment

              • ---k---
                Ultra Senior Member
                • Nov 2005
                • 5204

                #8
                Ahh. I forgot that I had already changed the base BOM to an iron core. I selected the P-core based on price at the time. The P-core is fine. The two 16 ga from Erse are better. If you're putting an Erse order in, then I would probably pick up the Erse IXQ. Otherwise get the P-core or PE has the SuperQ for about the same price.

                And just FYI, I had a cheap Madisound 10mh inductor in one for a while when I was waiting for PE to get the air core back in stock. I didn't notice anything after the switch or between the two.
                Free support for loudspeaker projects, sourcing OEM speaker building supplies, and passive crossover design. We sell raw speaker drivers (tweeters, woofers, subwoofer, midrange drivers, full range drivers), speaker kits, amplifiers, capacitors, resistors, and inductors.
                - Ryan

                CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                Comment

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