Finishing Walnut

[numberoneoppa]

I have some walnut veneer that I need to finish and I was wondering what the best way to go about doing it was. I am open to any and all suggestions.

I have one concern: I used the iron on method and I'm quite afraid that some glue might have seeped through some areas to the outside.

I'd prefer products that can be locally sourced. Thanks a bunch, guys!

[Txgrizzly]

Ive always loved a hand rubbed Linseed oil finish on walnut.

[ClosetSciFiGeek]

Try to GENTLY sand off the seeped glue. I was able to match my lowboy per my wife's direction by using walnut veneer with Minwax Polyshades in the Bombay Mahogany flavor. She is really happy with it and I think it hides some of my small imperfections well. It is pretty dark. I followed their directions pretty much. Here are the steps I performed:

1) Sand lightly with 400 grit(to open up the grain and take the stain evenly)
2) Blew with an air gun attachment to my compressor hose(do this outside so the dust isn't in the air when you are finishing)
3) Wiped down with a tack cloth(got some more sawdust off)
4) Painted on a coat of the Polyshades ensuring two things:
a) Keep a wet edge(Don't go over the edge onto another side as this will cause a line where one of the strokes dries before you come back and do that side)
b) Keep coverage about the same some one side is not darker than the rest it will be noticeable.
5) After the coat dried I was pretty disappointed, but not to worry the first coat is just soaks unevenly into the veneer and looks kind of dull and minutely bumpy.
6) I waited until the next day and then put in a lot of elbow grease with #0000 steel wool(this takes forever, but run small circles like shining shoes until you have an even surface for the second and hopefully final coat)[this is the key to a good finish with this stuff. If you short this step as "Good Enough" it won't be.]
7) I blew down the exterior outside and tack clothed again. After doing this I found some more high spots and rougher areas and went back at it with the steel wool. Perform this step over until you are satisfied.
8) I put on a thin final coat of Polyshades and decided it was dark enough and smooth enough.
9) Put it in your listening/living room and put on your favorite. Right now I am listening to Stevie Ray Vaughn's, "Lenny" on my Zaph's ZDT3.5s in Walnut Veneer with the Bombay Mahogany Finish as I type this. Pretty happy with them. The wife was so happy with them I just got done building a bathroom vanity and next she is cracking the whip on kitchen cabinets. Doesn't she know I have a day job and speakers to build for the upstairs.

Good luck. I attached a picture of the finish I ended up with.

[DancesWithBeers]

Here is how I did it:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php4?p=501031&postcount=25

Original thread:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=34465

Good luck, it looks like you did a great job with the veneer. Regarding most finishes, I've found that the quality of the results are directly proportional to how much time you spend.

[numberoneoppa]

Thanks, DancesWithBeers, I like the finish you posted a lot. Could I use the danish oil and then put a coat of Satin Poly on top of it? It seems you did something similar but I want to be sure.

@ClosetScifiGeek: Thanks for the advice, while your finish is a bit dark for my taste, there's a bunch of good info in your post. Definitely going to go pick up some steel wool. Hopefully I can source it locally.

@Txgrizzly: Considering that, right now it seems to be between using linseed or danish oil.

[Ntruder]

There was a pretty lengthy thread about finishing Walnut a few months ago, I'll try to find it.

As for applying the veneer, I HIGHLY recommend contact cement + roller. I think its much easier and more foolproof than the iron on methods. Apply contact cement to the wood and the veneer, let them dry, then stick it on flat and roll it and hit the edges with a good quality flush trim bit.

[Ntruder]

here's the thread

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=36751

[numberoneoppa]

Ntruder, I think I've seen that thread but I had completely forgot about it. Thanks!

[Ntruder]

You bet.

I don't know if I updated my finishing method for my walnut speakers, but I initially did like 4 coats of an oil type product, but after a while, I wanted a deeper finish, so I put a coat or two of some basic minwax polyurethane over the top and they look much deeper, and a little nicer in my opinion. You could probably skip the oil stage and go straight to the poly if that's the look you're going for; that deeper, slightly glassy look

[numberoneoppa]

Was it tinted poly? I guess it was if it made it deeper. No?

I'll have to consult my uncle on what kind of finish he's looking for as that's who these speakers will end up going to as soon as they're finished.

[mtmpenn]

I finished some walnut speakers based on DancesWithBeers suggestions (Thanks DWB!).

I am a newb and I don't think my speakers are as nice as his. But, I will offer the following obersvations:

General finishes Seal-a-cell was a great product to work with... very nice appearance and seems to have more varnish than Watco danish oil. I liked that it gave a little amber color and seemed to increase the woods chatoyance.

General finishes makes a poly topcoat meant to be used over seal-a-cell called Arm-R-Seal. It is another wiping finish and also pretty easy to work with, so if you decide to go with GF you can be assured that the poly is compatible. I used this product and I think the poly changes the look of the wood a bit. You should test it on some scrap and see if you like the difference and/or if the difference is worth the added protection. I felt it was a good idea on my project but if I didn't really feel like I needed the added protection I would skip this step.

Another thing to consider is whether or not you want to take time to fill the pores. I did not fill the pores, which worked well for the satin finish on my speakers. However, if you want a gloss finish (or plan to wax or buff out the finish) I would strongly consider it. I personally like the look on my project, but my project has a satin final finish.

[Txgrizzly]

Thanks, DancesWithBeers, I like the finish you posted a lot. Could I use the danish oil and then put a coat of Satin Poly on top of it? It seems you did something similar but I want to be sure.

@ClosetScifiGeek: Thanks for the advice, while your finish is a bit dark for my taste, there's a bunch of good info in your post. Definitely going to go pick up some steel wool. Hopefully I can source it locally.

@Txgrizzly: Considering that, right now it seems to be between using linseed or danish oil.

I have used Danish oil as well and like it on walnut... danish oil is Varnish mixed with boiled linseed oil... i have actually made my own when i wanted a higher concentration of varnish to build up the finish faster... :lol:

[ClosetSciFiGeek]

Should be able to get steel wool at Wal-Mart.

[GOWA]

I would keep it as natural as possible. Walnut has a great look as is.

[numberoneoppa]

Well guys, I went with a "Light Walnut" Danish Oil. You can fallow my progress in my Las Cuatro Amigas thread.

[Txgrizzly]

Well guys, I went with a "Light Walnut" Danish Oil. You can fallow my progress in my Las Cuatro Amigas thread.

looking good on the other thread!!!

[DancesWithBeers]

Thanks, DancesWithBeers, I like the finish you posted a lot. Could I use the danish oil and then put a coat of Satin Poly on top of it? It seems you did something similar but I want to be sure.
.

You could put satin poly on top, but just make sure the danish oil is fully cured first. I finished with the General finishes seal-a-cell clear, not poly. The danish oil took a long time to build, which is why I switched. Future cabinets will get Waterlox original satin from start to finish if I use an oil-based finish. If you want a more shiny finish with oil, you just have to be patient and build up the coats (I do one per day), while sanding between coats.