cutting speaker holes.

[justphil]

Can any point me to a step by step or maybe a good video showing this process. A video would prob be best but I couldn't find anything.

[joeybutts]

Buy a jasper jig and router. Done.

[justphil]

I understand that silly. I just wondered if there were different methods and bits used to accomplish the job. I am hoping for more specific detail. =)

[joeybutts]

hahaha. I have a fixed base router and use a 1/4" up-spiral bit. I take my time, usually no deeper than 1/4" at a time, and just continue down and through.

A plunge base will make it a touch easier.

[justphil]

Now that is better. You gave me the type of bit and everything =P Thank you.
OK so now I have a hole in the wood. What do I use the cut away material so the speaker can sit flush on the baffle? Or is that done prior to the all the way through the material cut? If the latter is true how is that done?

[RandyRSV]

Here's how I do it....works well! Good luck, and take your time (at least the first time). Randy

1) Attach/screw a scrap piece of wood to the back side of the speaker baffle you want to cut speaker holes in. Make sure the scrap piece is larger than the hole you are wanting to make....and that the screws are outside of the cut zone.

2) Drill a 1/8 inch hole (all the way through) into the baffle exactly at the center of the desired speaker location. Instead of using the 1/8 inch dowel pin that comes with the Jasper Jig, I use a 1/8" drill bit and push it through...all the way into the scrap piece of wood...leaving only enough drill bit shank sticking out for use with the circle jig.

3) Using my plunge router and the Jasper Jig, I then cut the outer circle that the speaker flange sits in. I cut downward to the depth of the speaker flange and make my first pass just slightly larger than the speaker flange diameter (for clearance). Then, I reduce the diameter (keep the same depth), and make another pass. Keep doing this until you are sure you are inside the diamter of the through hole you're about to cut in the next step. I use a sharp double flute straight cut bit...which works well for me. Others use up spiral bits. Also, I bought the Jasper combo pack (from PartsExpress) so I can cut holes for small tweeter speakers all the way up to large subwoofers.

4) Again, using the plunge router and the Jasper Jig, I cut the through hole in the baffle. I cut to a depth just deeper than the thickness of the baffle. When using a router, it's best to step downward when you're cutting...I step down about a 1/4" between each pass.

5) Remove the scrap piece of wood from the back of your speaker baffle....and you should be looking at a perfectly cut speaker hole!!!

[joeybutts]

I use the method nicely written above, or I know some people use Rabbet bits after cutting out the cutout hole to make the seat for flush mounting. I would do the rabbet bit method when working with laminate/veneer.

[fjhuerta]

I can't stress this enough - make the circle at least 1/16th larger than the published size of your driver... or it won't fit.

[Solid7]

I can't stress this enough - make the circle at least 1/16th larger than the published size of your driver... or it won't fit.

It is much better to measure the drivers after you have them in hand. Assuming everything comes in at the right size, 1/16th of an inch air gap might be OK for you, but that's a bit sloppy for my liking. I like to fit them tight.

[justphil]

Thank you all very much for being very specific. I am my own worst enemy and make things more difficult than they are.

[joeybutts]

It is much better to measure the drivers after you have them in hand. Assuming everything comes in at the right size, 1/16th of an inch air gap might be OK for you, but that's a bit sloppy for my liking. I like to fit them tight.

This. 8)

[justphil]

Can any tell me if the Router Buddy/Jasper Jigs will fit on Harbor Freight Routers? I am starting to buy some tools and am trying to keep costs down.

[Bear]

Can any tell me if the Router Buddy/Jasper Jigs will fit on Harbor Freight Routers? I am starting to buy some tools and am trying to keep costs down.

No clue. Given that there are some really good quality routers in the $125 - $150 range (e.g., Hitachi MV12C), I would rather save the money a bit longer and get a better tool than go for the lowest cost I can find. A good, used tool from Craigslist might be a better option, as well.

It's not the greatest, but the $99 digital plunge router from Sears does a decent job for light duty and doesn't require an add-on depth gauge.