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Don't post much here, but what with the lowered price of the Dayton SD270-88 10" subwoofer I figured I should throw it up. Plus Curt has been very helpful so I'd hate to not show off a little more of what he has done! Plus, like, Halloween and stuff. Figured the name and changes fit pretty well. 
In any case, the project itself started simply because I found myself with 8 HiVi M3N drivers and a pair of Dayton 10" subs. These were all purchased around 18 months ago actually, so it's purely coincidental the subs are on sale yet again, though I initially bought them around the same price point.
In any case, I've been looking for a project to use this stuff in as the small 2-ways speakers I tried turned out near useless in my apartment, and frankly I don't remember why I purchased the subs. But I had stumbled across Curt's "Cinderella " build some time ago when I first debated the Statement Monitors a year or so ago.
First thought: "God that's a goofy looking speaker"
Second thought: "But I do have drivers that might work...if I actually knew how to adapt the design"
Third thought: "I better get with Curt before I break something"
So the design began. The long and short of it - we decided that the M3N is probably close enough to a drop in replacement for the B3N that no crossover changes will be required until I take a listen. The low end will be changed fairly significantly though, new components all around (I can get the values to anyone interested) along with the driver wired in series. Final results will be closer to a 16 ohm load which would be pretty great for low-end gear...and I suppose my XPA-2 will handle it just fine.
So the crossovers have been sorted and parts bought, everything pretty much sitting on the coffee table awaiting assembly and initial trial this weekend. That left me with the cabinet to change up a bit. Discussion with Curt yielded two possibilities - a ~1.75 cubic foot sealed box, or a ~2.5 cubic foot cabinet ported to down to 20 Hz. Given that I owned the majority of the drivers and this is supposed to be something of a budget hobby build, I figured I should go for gold and get as much as I could out of these $20 "subs".
Ported it was! But getting 2.5 cubes wasn't easy, and involved widening and deepening the base significantly, with a slight rise in height. I also wanted to test out some ideas for bracing - not that this subwoofer should really require it, but because I wanted to see what I could do for future, more expensive builds. So I decided that the side panels for the top portion would serve as bracing for the bottom, with the port itself set between the braces in a down-firing alignment.
Unfortunately this dictated widening the top cabinet, as it was a 3" port (nearly 3.5" OD). This actually worked out well, as the wider top portion meshed well with the larger lower portion. I has seen this done before by another fine gentleman of this site that apparently worked out well with a decent edge put on it. It also ended up with some nice 'shoulders' of sorts that I think work out pretty well. It's closer to a 2.2-2.3 cube enclosure as well, so I will experiment with thicker foam on the sides and lightly stuff the box to start off.
In any case - too many words, not enough pictures.
Images not available
Haven't attached the back portion yet as I didn't have time, but that should work out well for various reasons....mostly because I still haven't determined where I'm putting the crossovers yet. Have a couple ideas though so hopefully once they're together I'll be able to finish that out. Need to get the bottom put on too, with some form of riser or feet for the port to breathe.
In any case, I've got a lot of work to do yet, but a lot of the heavy stuff is done and out of the way. After spending a few days working with MDF my nose is finally starting to get cleared up - next time I'm going to nix the dust mask and grab a P95!
In any case, the project itself started simply because I found myself with 8 HiVi M3N drivers and a pair of Dayton 10" subs. These were all purchased around 18 months ago actually, so it's purely coincidental the subs are on sale yet again, though I initially bought them around the same price point.
In any case, I've been looking for a project to use this stuff in as the small 2-ways speakers I tried turned out near useless in my apartment, and frankly I don't remember why I purchased the subs. But I had stumbled across Curt's "Cinderella " build some time ago when I first debated the Statement Monitors a year or so ago.
First thought: "God that's a goofy looking speaker"
Second thought: "But I do have drivers that might work...if I actually knew how to adapt the design"
Third thought: "I better get with Curt before I break something"
So the design began. The long and short of it - we decided that the M3N is probably close enough to a drop in replacement for the B3N that no crossover changes will be required until I take a listen. The low end will be changed fairly significantly though, new components all around (I can get the values to anyone interested) along with the driver wired in series. Final results will be closer to a 16 ohm load which would be pretty great for low-end gear...and I suppose my XPA-2 will handle it just fine.
So the crossovers have been sorted and parts bought, everything pretty much sitting on the coffee table awaiting assembly and initial trial this weekend. That left me with the cabinet to change up a bit. Discussion with Curt yielded two possibilities - a ~1.75 cubic foot sealed box, or a ~2.5 cubic foot cabinet ported to down to 20 Hz. Given that I owned the majority of the drivers and this is supposed to be something of a budget hobby build, I figured I should go for gold and get as much as I could out of these $20 "subs".
Ported it was! But getting 2.5 cubes wasn't easy, and involved widening and deepening the base significantly, with a slight rise in height. I also wanted to test out some ideas for bracing - not that this subwoofer should really require it, but because I wanted to see what I could do for future, more expensive builds. So I decided that the side panels for the top portion would serve as bracing for the bottom, with the port itself set between the braces in a down-firing alignment.
Unfortunately this dictated widening the top cabinet, as it was a 3" port (nearly 3.5" OD). This actually worked out well, as the wider top portion meshed well with the larger lower portion. I has seen this done before by another fine gentleman of this site that apparently worked out well with a decent edge put on it. It also ended up with some nice 'shoulders' of sorts that I think work out pretty well. It's closer to a 2.2-2.3 cube enclosure as well, so I will experiment with thicker foam on the sides and lightly stuff the box to start off.
In any case - too many words, not enough pictures.
Images not available
Haven't attached the back portion yet as I didn't have time, but that should work out well for various reasons....mostly because I still haven't determined where I'm putting the crossovers yet. Have a couple ideas though so hopefully once they're together I'll be able to finish that out. Need to get the bottom put on too, with some form of riser or feet for the port to breathe.
In any case, I've got a lot of work to do yet, but a lot of the heavy stuff is done and out of the way. After spending a few days working with MDF my nose is finally starting to get cleared up - next time I'm going to nix the dust mask and grab a P95!
ops: )
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