Sonic Barrier Not worth it?

[godzen]

According to************* Sonic Barrier from PE does more harm than good compare to no Rez. In his explanation, only the foam layer of the SB is useful. The barrier layer is essentially useless or does nothing beneficial to the sound. I'm in the process of building a center channel with the PE stuff but I definitely will go with the norez for my future floorstanders. Cost comes out about even when comparing no rez to the 3 layer 1 1/4 sonic barrier...any thoughts?


He claimed to have done resonance testing with them too. Interesting read.

Edited by moderator to conform to forum rules

[Face]

It's because he sells No Rez.

I've used both. I haven't done a direct comparison, but No Res is like Sonic Barrier on steroids.

[Jed]

Black Hole 5 is good too. But lately I've questioned the value proposition of Sonic Barrier. It just keeps going up in price. One alternative, and something that works well, is to DIY the same thing. For example, you can come close by using the Vinyl sound deadening material and a layer of foam sandwiched together. Glue it together with some adhesive and you're good to go... just takes MUCH longer and the thing that is nice about Sonic Barrier is the ease of install.

[godzen]

It's because he sells No Rez.

I've used both. I haven't done a direct comparison, but No Res is like Sonic Barrier on steroids.

lol....that's one way to put it
Maybe I'll buy a roll of whispermat II next time to build my floorstander. These all look the same to me with whispermat the most cost effective and ease of use.

[Deward Hastings]

the most cost effective

The most cost effective by far (and possibly the most effective overall) is simply medium or high density "rigid" rock wool or fiberglass insulating panels. I get mine (rockwool) from SPI, which I believe distributes nationwide . . .

[krips]

Would Roxul 'safe n sound' work well?

[Paul Ebert]

The most cost effective by far (and possibly the most effective overall) is simply medium or high density "rigid" rock wool or fiberglass insulating panels. I get mine (rockwool) from SPI, which I believe distributes nationwide . . .

Deward, might you have a link? Is this stuff also known as "Fibertex"? If so, which grade do you use?

[Deward Hastings]

Is this stuff also known as "Fibertex"?

I bought what I've got at the SPI warehouse in Benicia (CA) 4-5 years ago. Went there, chatted up the desk clerk, went out in the warehouse to see what they had in stock. It was bought for wall panels . . . I use what's left as box stuffing, diffraction rings, and wherever damping is indicated. Should go back for more soon, maybe something a little less dense, maybe not. The SPI product list is not as easy to navigate as it might be.

The bales I've got are labeled:

Mineral Wool Insulation
IIG MinWool
IB 1280 . . . 2x24x48

As I recall it is either 6 or 8 lb per cu ft . . . quite a bit more dense than the Corning 703. That's what I wanted for bass trapping, and it's worked fine elsewhere . . .

[Rick Craig]

I've used Sonic Barrier in many cabinets and it's worked well for me. To say it does more harm than good is foolish. In order to compare it to different materials you would need acoustical / vibration analysis testing done by an independent firm.

[---k---]

I've only used the PE Sonic Barrier without the membrane layer. I think it works just fine. I note that Zaph likes Wispermat, but also recommends carpet padding and other alternate foams. His Madisound kits come with basic foam. Jim Holtz uses egg create foam.

Lots of opinions out there... I think there are differences between the low end foam and the high end foam. But, I think comparing Sonic Barrier to Wispermat to No Rez is a bit like comparing caps...

[DeathMonk]

I've started using regular old fiberglass insulation... Kind of a pain compared to Sonic Barrier, etc. but it's cheap

[Hank]

I line all cabinets with the PE vinyl. "He" may not have explained it well, but the reason to not use any foam product with a solid vinyl layer between two foam layers is that the inner vinyl layer blocks sound waves, and therefore results in a cabinet volume that is smaller than the actual volume without such a layer. It may dampen vibrations, but it results in a suboptimal cabinet volume. If I'm wrong, please let me know.
IMHO, Black Hole, No-Rez and Sonic Barrier are all exhorbitantly priced. Use PE vinyl damping sheet and glue your favorite foam, fiberglas, etc to it. And of course, use you-know-what brand of contact adhesive :W

[Rick Craig]

I line all cabinets with the PE vinyl. "He" may not have explained it well, but the reason to not use any foam product with a solid vinyl layer between two foam layers is that the inner vinyl layer blocks sound waves, and therefore results in a cabinet volume that is smaller than the actual volume without such a layer. It may dampen vibrations, but it results in a suboptimal cabinet volume. If I'm wrong, please let me know.
IMHO, Black Hole, No-Rez and Sonic Barrier are all exhorbitantly priced. Use PE vinyl damping sheet and glue your favorite foam, fiberglas, etc to it. And of course, use you-know-what brand of contact adhesive :W

The damping layer in Sonic Barrier isn't thick enough to have a negative effect. It would need to be much thicker and stiffer to displace any cabinet volume. If a cabinet is designed well with good bracing then mass loading isn't going to help much anyway. The main issue is to kill the internal reflections and your method is a good one.

[godzen]

IMHO, Black Hole, No-Rez and Sonic Barrier are all exhorbitantly priced. Use PE vinyl damping sheet and glue your favorite foam, fiberglas, etc to it. And of course, use you-know-what brand of contact adhesive :W

Thanks Hank

I hadn't thought of this before. Great idea !!!

[---k---]

I beleive that the vinyl layer is intended to act like a loose membrane in a helmholtz system. It is supposed to vibrate and absorb the energy through its movement. MUCH different than the behavior if attached to the wall where it is intended to dampen the movement.