Chamfering for bass driver (newbie!)

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  • igy137
    Member
    • Jan 2008
    • 47

    Chamfering for bass driver (newbie!)

    Is it necessary to chamfer holes for bass drivers?
    Planned front plate is 3x18mm or 4x18mm thick.
    I made some drawings in sketchup with the driver to visualize, but cannot decide which'd be the optimal in terms of stability and airflow.
    What do you think?
    Thx,
    igy
    Attached Files
  • Bear
    Super Senior Member
    • Dec 2008
    • 1038

    #2
    I'm not sure I see a lot of difference between D and E. Depending upon your tolerance for minutia, D, E or F would be preferred for smaller drivers. For a 26cm/10in driver, you can probably get by with almost any of them.
    Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson.

    Comment

    • ---k---
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Nov 2005
      • 5204

      #3
      I need help with my metric...

      I vote C
      - Ryan

      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

      Comment

      • gmed
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2006
        • 207

        #4
        I vote C as well

        Comment

        • igy137
          Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 47

          #5
          Thanks for the answers so far!
          Oops, there's really no difference between D and E, it was done late at night
          That's going to be a (actually two) scan-speak 26w with the baffle 3x or 4x 3/4" baltic birch plywood.

          Comment

          • David G
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2005
            • 170

            #6
            Its a balance between giving the driver breathing space, and keeping the baffle as strong as possible. C is the best compromise.

            Comment

            • cjd
              Ultra Senior Member
              • Dec 2004
              • 5570

              #7
              Woohoo! I'm winning... or is it Curt that is...

              I tend to use a combination of bits to create an ogee profile where I don't have room on the back to fully relieve around the driver without getting into the area where the sides glue up. As with chamfer vs round-over, you smooth out the distribution of artifacts using smooth transitions (duh?) where hard angles tend to concentrate such things.

              C
              diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

              Comment

              • numberoneoppa
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2009
                • 535

                #8
                I am about to do this later today, so this thread is very helpful! Thanks. :P
                -Josh

                That feeling when things are finally going right. Yeah, that one.

                Comment

                • Bear
                  Super Senior Member
                  • Dec 2008
                  • 1038

                  #9
                  Originally posted by igy137
                  That's going to be a (actually two) scan-speak 26w with the baffle 3x or 4x 3/4" baltic birch plywood.
                  Depending upon the size of the baffle and your bracing structure, this could be serious, serious overkill. awesome! :T ;x(
                  Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson.

                  Comment

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