Mini-Statement Crossover mounting...

[feetball]

Where and how did everyone mount their crossover networks for the mini-statements?

I did two 5"X9" panels per speaker (to get the 20cm between inductors).

Was curious where the recommended location was to mount these and how?

Easiest of course would be against the rear baffle but should I cover them with foam?

As for how, I was thinking of using a short aluminum tube as a standoff then running a wood screw through the xover panel, tube and into the rear baffle.

Any suggestions?

Here is a pic of a completed set (I like hot glue!!):

[john trials]

When I built my Statements, I glued three 1" square, 3/4" thick MDF blocks to the inside of the each baffle (below the shelf brace). These blocks were used as standoffs for mounting the xover. I used brass wood screws to hold the xover in place. Your method of using the aluminum tubes would work, but may be cumbersome when mounting the xover (if you're doing it through the woofer or port hole), and will probably be dropped inside the cabinet if you ever have to remove the xover.

Your crossovers are about the same size as mine, so I'm not sure if they'll fit along the inside of the baffle on a mini-Statement.

I wouldn't cover the xover with foam. That's just my personal preference...I like to give resistors plenty of open air to radiate heat. If you feel you have to cover them, use fiberglass...it's non flammable.

[feetball]

When I built my Statements, I glued three 1" square, 3/4" thick MDF blocks to the inside of the each baffle (below the shelf brace). These blocks were used as standoffs for mounting the xover. I used brass wood screws to hold the xover in place.

Do you mean below the bottom shelf brace (near the port)? How did you manage to get a screw and driver down there through the woofer hole?

[savage25xtreme]

I thought using steel screws/bolts on the inductors was a NO-NO?

[john trials]

I mounted my port on the rear of the enclosure. Since the xover was mounted on the inside of the lower part of the baffle, I had direct access to the xover through the port for mounting (and it was still a bit of a pain). The xover was inserted through the woofer hole, then down through the shelf brace, but the screws were installed through the port.

Here's a link to my build thread. There is a photo (through the port hole) of the xover.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=34301

The position of my xover may not help you, as the Mini-Statements aren't as big as the Statements. My post above was mainly to assist in mounting.

[feetball]

I thought using steel screws/bolts on the inductors was a NO-NO?

serously?!?! How bad will it affect them? I guess I could replace with nylon screws...

[LuncHwagon]

I thought for sure you were going to say "i could replace them with tons of hot glue" which isnt a bad idea if you add a zip-tie thingy.

[feetball]

I thought for sure you were going to say "i could replace them with tons of hot glue" which isnt a bad idea if you add a zip-tie thingy.

hahaha ... I do like the hot glue!!! CAn do that!

[savage25xtreme]

serously?!?! How bad will it affect them? I guess I could replace with nylon screws...

I'm not sure how bad it will affect it but any ferrous metal close to an inductor will affect its value. I used zip ties, much easier to remove than hot glue if you need to move it. :T

[Curt C]

serously?!?! How bad will it affect them? I guess I could replace with nylon screws...

I don't think that amount of steel will make any audible difference in the crossover operation. However, if you decide to replace them, I 2nd zipties, or you could use brass hardware instead. Nylon screws won't have the tensile strength to do the job properly.

C

[feetball]

I don't think that amount of steel will make any audible difference in the crossover operation. However, if you decide to replace them, I 2nd zipties, or you could use brass hardware instead. Nylon screws won't have the tensile strength to do the job properly.

C

Ya I already replaced them with zip-ties and a TON of hot glue.

[feetball]

I am still interested in other mounting methods.

I am considering trying to use a "template" to hold three blocks of mdf in place so I can glue them in the cabinet. I will wedge a piece of mdf against the sides to allow the glue to set.

Any other ideas?

[john trials]

Some people on this forum have used velcro for fastening the xover into the cabinets. It makes a lot of sense. It's very easy to use. Mounting and removal are simple. Just don't use too much velcro, or removal can be pretty tough.

[soundemon]

I used Velcro to mount my Statement crossovers. Using the sticky-backed stuff, plus I used some staples thru each piece, as I was not positive that the velcro holding force wouldnt exceed the sticky holding force, just in case they need to be removed.

[sawdust]

I don't think that amount of steel will make any audible difference in the crossover operation. However, if you decide to replace them, I 2nd zipties, or you could use brass hardware instead. Nylon screws won't have the tensile strength to do the job properly.

C

What about neo magnets in the baffle for mounting a speaker grill? Any ill effects for the crossovers if installed relatively close?

[feetball]

VELCRO!! What a great idea!!! Definitely going to try this!

Thinking of putting one xover on the side next to the port at the bottom and the other on the other side. Do you guys remove the foam from the location you install your xover (in my case, I put foam everywhere)?

[Bill Schneider]

I am still interested in other mounting methods.

Any other ideas?

Here's something that I've done recently...



I used sections of dowels as feet. A pilot hole was drilled through the dowels for the xover mounting screws. I fastened the completed crossover boards on the feet using screws, added glue to the bottom of the feet, and dropped them into place. When the glue dried, I removed the boards for further work (painting, etc.), but the boards are easily reinstalled.





In addition to round dowels, I've used strips of wood as shown in the bottom chamber of the floorstander pictured below. Strips are easier to fabricate, and probably better for larger crossovers. In the photo below, the strips of wood mounted to the underside of the crossovers also served to buttress the corner mounting blocks.

These two designs both allow the crossovers to be removed if necessary. Four screws hold each of the crossover boards in place.

[DeathMonk]

Very nice :T

[Dean100]

Wow. Beautiful work, those crossover boards look like they are even painted as well as labeled.