Dayton HT Speakers in Progress

[Lurkalot]

With great humility and trepidation I submit three pics of my HT speaker build in progress. They have taken me a good deal longer than they should have, but I have learned much and enjoyed the building process. For those with a critical eye, please go easy on me. I know there is a lot of hookup wire- I broke up the crossovers because I just could not find a way to layout the crossovers and maintain adequate inductor spacing, regardless of how I positioned them...

I hope they sound pretty good after all this work. They should be into the paint shop by next Tuesday or so...

Bruce

[TacoD]

Looks good to me. I would advise to fix the wires to the braces. To reduce the change of "rattles".

[savage25xtreme]

kinda hard to see but no round over or chamfer on the driver cut outs?

[fbov]

Look closer; inner driver cut outs are chamfered, but shallow and not near the t-nuts.

[penngray]

kinda hard to see but no round over or chamfer on the driver cut outs?

Is there a link to explain the importance of the internal round over on the driver cutouts?

[Dean100]

Is there a link to explain the importance of the internal round over on the driver cutouts?

Zaph talks about it quite a bit at this link.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/XDS.html

Jon Marsh explains it in quite a number of threads here at HTGuide. Try a search.

Hope this helps.

[Jed]

Is there a link to explain the importance of the internal round over on the driver cutouts?

The cone needs area around it to breathe otherwise the reflections bounce right back through the cone from the baffle tunnel and cause resonances and frequency response variations.

[Lurkalot]

Relieving rear of baffle board driver openings

The reliefs are actually wider than they appear in the image. I did not know how deep to make them, so I tried to strike a balance between strength around the fasteners and facilitating good airflow.

Do they look inadequate?

[savage25xtreme]

did you use a round over? if so what size? is the baffle 3/4" thick?

[Lurkalot]

Baffle Reliefs

The baffle is laminated with epoxy from 5/8" MDF & 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. If you include the recessed section, the frame of the woofers project a total of about 1/2" into the baffle opening, so the scalloped section starts about 1/8" from that.

In hindsight I could have done a better job with this; since I really cannot do anything more now, I hope what I have done is adequate.

Live and learn-lose and learn I suppose...

[---k---]

Ahhh, it is easy to fix. Go to Lowes, Home Depot, or where ever and buy a Rasp. Something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=183658-273-WCSET3CM&lpage=none

Then just file it until it looks like the driver can breath nicely. You'll probably spend less than 10 minutes per hole. The RS150 is probably the more important one, since it is shallower to begin with. You probably want to end up with like a 45 degree - 5/8" deep chamfer.

See what you can do. It isn't the end of the world.