Best cable for Jumpers

[jveiga]

Hello all;
I am asking for an advice about the best cable to make two pairs of jumpers for my B&W speakers. I don’t like the original ones and besides I loss it. I wave a Transparent Super MM single wire. I am not sure but I think transparent doesn’t sell cable without termination and I am sure that buy a set´s of terminated jumpers will cost a fortune. Since I can do it by myself, what cable do you recommend?
Thanks,
Jveiga

[ThomasW]

You're talking about the 2"-3" section of metal used to jump between a pair of banana plugs on the back of a speaker?

You don't need a cable. All you need is a very short length of hook-up wire. I have no idea what's sold in Portugal but IMO it doesn't need to be very exotic wire.

[Amphiprion]

I highly recommend something in the conductive metal family, copper being the most cost-effective. Whatever you buy, you definitely want a material in which the conduction band overlaps the valence band. If they can't give you that guarantee, then don't buy it.

[Face]

Any decent gauge speaker cable or hookup wire would work. Silver, copper, solid core, stranded, etc... up to you.

[jveiga]

the conduction band overlaps the valence band.

Thanks for your answers; I am not looking for something exotic. Just something cost effective. A flexible cable will be better. I just need some suggestions.
Can you explain what I quote?

João Veiga

[JonMarsh]

I highly recommend something in the conductive metal family, copper being the most cost-effective. Whatever you buy, you definitely want a material in which the conduction band overlaps the valence band. If they can't give you that guarantee, then don't buy it.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[Amphiprion]

I knew someone would appreciate that

[ch83575]

Wow, tough crowd around here today...

I have my speakers bi-wired, so I have never had any jumpers to replace. I have replaced the solid jumpers that went from my pre-out to power-in jacks on the back of my Linn integrated and that made a very noticeable difference. All I am saying is that I don't think that just because it is short the difference in wires will be inaudible. Of course, I could be wrong about that, and even if it is audible it isn't going to be lifting any veils or some crap like that :W . Not only are they very short, but only the tweeter signal will even go through them at all. Only way to know for sure is to do the AB.

As for the question itself, I always just drive down to the local hi-fi shop and pick up the audioquest bulk wire (aprox $1.20/ft if memory serves) for low-budget projects and I usually use Linn wire (the thick black stuff, not the thin grey ones) for main system stuff. For really short pieces I can usually con them out of some scraps from the ends of rolls for next to nothing. Both of those sound dramatically better than hardware store wire or hook-up wire everywhere I have ever used them, but neither is ridiculously priced. I have heard good things about blue jean wire, but never used it.

If you do pick up some decent cable try an AB with some hardware store stuff and let us know if its audible.

-Chad

p.s. Don't worry about that quote. Mark is using some form of engineer humor :T : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valence_band

[Johnloudb]

Can you explain what I quote?

João Veiga

Mark was just being funny. It has to due with band theory of solids. In semiconductors there is an energy gap between the valence band and conduction band. In other words, a certain amount of energy (fermi level) is required for these materials to conduct. In a conductor there is no energy gap between the valence and conduction band (the bands overlap), so it always conducts. It's just something you have to learn in some engineering fields.

So, you don't want an insulator, or semiconductor to for your bridge.

I like DH Labs cable. Which you can get here: Parts Connexion

It's not terminated. But, Like others have mentioned it is not critical and 16 gauge zip cord would likely do just as well.

Edit: sorry, missed your post Chad, I see you've already covered that.

[A9X]

I highly recommend something in the conductive metal family, copper being the most cost-effective. Whatever you buy, you definitely want a material in which the conduction band overlaps the valence band. If they can't give you that guarantee, then don't buy it.

Damn that was funny.

[dsrviola]

Jumpers

I've played with a number of different wire jumpers for the B&W 804's I'm using (until my DIY project is done......should have both speakers wired up by tomorrow :banana: ) at the moment. Kimber, DH Labs ( I think that's what it's called), Audio Magic and a few others. The jumpers that made a dramatic difference are the ones from Mapleshade. They're very thin (and fragile ) copper foil jumpers. Also (hold on while I put on my asbestos before the propellerheads get out their weapons :# ) they're directional. I've almost ALWAYS preferred putting my speaker cables on the tweeter binding posts and run a jumper to the bass posts. But that's just me. That's how I'm using them.

Whatever you end up using, please let us know what your experience is.

Cheers

[---k---]

I recommend removing the terminal or driver to observe the wire going from the back of the terminal to the crossover. Use this same wire.

[Hank]

Jviega, please forgive Mark "The Kid" - he has way too much time on his hands. However, relief from his dark humor posts is at hand - he's found a JOB :E and will now have to work and stay off the forums except for lunch time like me.

[Amphiprion]

Alas, lunch time might need to be dedicated to the dog. It'll be interesting to see how she deals with being back in an apartment instead of a house.

Just so you know, this might have a small impact on my availability (aka the avialabilty of my praxis setup). I'm gonna have to do all my speaker building stuff on the weekends now