Make-over for my cheapo surround speakers.

[wackii]

I'm planning to do a make-over for my cheapo surround speakers. I do have one question. The speakers now have a black wood veneer. Do I need to sand all the paint down before I apply the new veneer over it? I will do the iron-on method and kinda lazy to sand all the paint out Do you think it's wise to leave partial of the paint on?

Thanks.

Al,

[J-Dub]

Depends on type of veneer on them now.
If paper or melamine or vinyl id say sand it completely off. If it is wood veneer I'd still say sand through the paint/finish enough to ensure adheresion with the wood. That is considering the existing veneer has a good bond with the wood under it.
Realistically you shouldnt have many problems sanding through 95-100% of the existing finish and puting the new veneer on.

[wackii]

Thanks, J-Dub. I should sand it off, just lil lazy

Talking about cheap speakers. After I flat trim the back of the speakers, take a look at how they have the mdf glued together... I think a cockroach can fit through there... hahaha...



Here is the crossover (high-end stuff :B ).


How they look originally.





These are my first speakers before DIY about 6 years ago. Guess what they are?

Time to bondo up the openning...


Al,

[J-Dub]

Hey wackii,

I have never worked with bondo on wood so someone else will have to share their experience

BUT,,, I do use the Elmers 2 part wood repair epoxy and it is AWESOME! Its a little pricey but you will end up using it again somewhere and it is extremely tough. It will patch that gap as if it never existed in the first place.

Work with it quickly and dont mix more than you need. Wear vinyl or latex gloves squash the 2 puddys together untill they turn one color and mash into the hole. Wait till next day before sanding.
(I have no affiliation with elmers I just enjoy this product)

I still cant tell by the pictures but it looks like a palm sander starting with 60 grit will take everything down pretty fast. Use 60grit then 100 then 150 then 220. you may be able to skip the 150 grit since you are puting new veneer on.

[wackii]

Hey wackii,

I have never worked with bondo on wood so someone else will have to share their experience

BUT,,, I do use the Elmers 2 part wood repair epoxy and it is AWESOME! Its a little pricey but you will end up using it again somewhere and it is extremely tough. It will patch that gap as if it never existed in the first place.

Work with it quickly and dont mix more than you need. Wear vinyl or latex gloves squash the 2 puddys together untill they turn one color and mash into the hole. Wait till next day before sanding.
(I have no affiliation with elmers I just enjoy this product)

I still cant tell by the pictures but it looks like a palm sander starting with 60 grit will take everything down pretty fast. Use 60grit then 100 then 150 then 220. you may be able to skip the 150 grit since you are puting new veneer on.

Thanks.

I've worked with bondo and it should be fine. I'm out of 60 grits so I will start with 100 then 150... I'm also out of 220 grits. Do you think it's ok to stop at 150 since I will veneer over it? Thanks again.

Al,

[J-Dub]

150 should be fine for veneering over. you may have some trouble getting through the old finish without a coarser grit to start but try what you have before going out to buy it.

[wackii]

I made some progress.

I decided to only sand a lil on the cab (just making sure the cabs are all flat). Applied the Maple Bird's Eye veneer using iron-on method. I still need to sand and clean up the cabs a lil, then throw in a few clear coats. So far, I like the way it turns out. I spent a total of $10.25 for the veneer shipped from Ebay The rest of stuffs I got from previous projects. Not too bad for a new look



Al,

[J-Dub]

Lookin Good Al,

I think they are going to turn out nice! :T

Wayne

[Mazeroth]

I have a pair of Infinity Delta 30s I just picked up for $50 that have some cheap vinyl issues. This thread is giving me some ideas that I can make them look better than new for almost nothing. Though, the part that may give me trouble is the rear firing port that's recessed and glued in.



Did you use a veneer with any type of backing or just raw? Also, you never did say which speakers these are.

Keep us posted with any more pics. Oh, and great job!

[wackii]

Thanks.

I was able to apply 1 coat of arm-r-seal clear coat on the cabs. Here are a few pics I took. I still need to apply a few more coats (depends on how lazy I am ). Also, need to get a black marker and touch up the counter sink baffle.

[wackii]

I have a pair of Infinity Delta 30s I just picked up for $50 that have some cheap vinyl issues. This thread is giving me some ideas that I can make them look better than new for almost nothing. Though, the part that may give me trouble is the rear firing port that's recessed and glued in.



Did you use a veneer with any type of backing or just raw? Also, you never did say which speakers these are.

Keep us posted with any more pics. Oh, and great job!

Mareroth,

They are raw veneer that I purchased on EBAY for very cheap You just need to flatten it out.

The speakers are the cheap old Fluance surrounds. I'm waiting for some fund to build the new surrounds.

Al,

[wackii]

I've completed the make-over. I really like the outcome. Maple Bird'seye is beautiful After 4 clear coats, I think it's enough and don't want to spend more time on them (cheap old surrounds). I do this primary for practice on how to apply raw veneer... I did learn quite a bit on this. If I have to re-do this, I will use the foam brush to apply the clear coat. It's will be much smoother and less sanding needed. The finish is not really smooth but I'm calling it done... getting too lazy Anyway, I took a few pics. They do look like those expensive speakers :B







Al,

[fbov]

Excellent results!