AurasoundNS10-513-4A sub Just got it.

[bobhowell]

Just ordered one and now for an amp. Suggestions?

Also what alignments are good for HT?

Thoughts appreciated.

Bob

[Hdale85]

Ported of course, although I think the NS-10 is generally best suited for music It's probably not going to play as low as other things but regardless I'm sure it'll sound great. I've been thinking about ordering 1 or 2 of these. I need to build a sub for my E-drum setup.

[Jed]

Just ordered one and now for an amp. Suggestions?

Also what alignments are good for HT?

Thoughts appreciated.

Bob

Bob,

Did you download unibox yet? Should be a nice sub in about 45L. Could go smaller if needed.

[Mazeroth]

Ported of course, although I think the NS-10 is generally best suited for music It's probably not going to play as low as other things but regardless I'm sure it'll sound great. I've been thinking about ordering 1 or 2 of these. I need to build a sub for my E-drum setup.

Is your E-drum setup an actual full DiY or do you have something like a Roland unit? My brother built his triggered drums from a Ludwig 5 piece and uses a TD10 which is fed to his computer. I built some arrays for him years ago and the setup is fantastic!

Sorry to deviate from the thread

[Hdale85]

No building the Triggers to Midi converter to. It's a kit that I bought called MegaDrum. It's pretty nice and has tons of inputs

[bobhowell]

Bob,

Did you download unibox yet? Should be a nice sub in about 45L. Could go smaller if needed.

Yes, and with this driver I got results different from Madisound's suggested tuning in 1.6 cf. With fb=34, f3=33 and use 3"port 7"long. They say 10" long. Unibox recommends larger port.

I thought that was a big variation. But I tend to go with Madisound, as their info is specific to the driver.

I have a sealed RSS265HF 10" sub in about 56L with the PE 240watt plate amp with boost. With this driver, I worry about damage from low HT freq. in vented alignment. Does the pa have any low filter?

The 10" sub needs some help in my 20x14 room. I hear a hole at 40-60 hz., so this will hopefully help.

[Jed]

Unibox recommends larger port.

All that means is a deeper tuning for lower F3 (if the port is longer with same diameter as madisounds recommendation). Unibox is dead accurate according to my measurements. The port length can be adjusted to taste and how it interacts in your room.

[Rick Craig]

Yes, and with this driver I got results different from Madisound's suggested tuning in 1.6 cf. With fb=34, f3=33 and use 3"port 7"long. They say 10" long. Unibox recommends larger port.

I thought that was a big variation. But I tend to go with Madisound, as their info is specific to the driver.

I have a sealed RSS265HF 10" sub in about 56L with the PE 240watt plate amp with boost. With this driver, I worry about damage from low HT freq. in vented alignment. Does the pa have any low filter?

The 10" sub needs some help in my 20x14 room. I hear a hole at 40-60 hz., so this will hopefully help.

All of the amps (except those with the Linkwitz transform) have a second order filter which creates the peak and then has a high pass filter below the boost area. The AuraSound is a good woofer for a 6th order alignment but you'll need an amp with a fairly low boost frequency. If you like to play things really loud you may want to leave out the boost because it will increase the excursion quite a bit.

[Xander]

All of the amps (except those with the Linkwitz transform) have a second order filter which creates the peak and then has a high pass filter below the boost area.

What do you mean by "all the amps..."? Can you please explain more?

[Bear]

Yes, and with this driver I got results different from Madisound's suggested tuning in 1.6 cf. With fb=34, f3=33 and use 3"port 7"long. They say 10" long. Unibox recommends larger port.

Try modeling out the NS10 in 35 - 45L of air in a dual PR alignment using 2 of the Creative Sound APR10 passive radiators loaded with 600 - 800g each. It's more expensive to go the PR route, especially dual PRs (helps keep the sub from rocking/walking), but a ported design won't tune very low without an appreciable secondary volume devoted to the port itself.

For example, the NS10 in 45L of air with a 200W plate amp can get by with "just" a 3" port at a 20Hz tuning (max air speed: ~36m/s @ ~16 - 17Hz), but your port length will be 59cm. This means that you have 2.7l of "dead air" in the port that you need to account for in addition to everything else (plate amp, driver) when computing your gross enclosure volume. The good news is that tuning just a bit less aggressively towards the low end will start dramatically decreasing the length of the port. Of course, wind speed also starts to pick up, and the peak velocity also quickly gets into the audible range (>20Hz) where you start really needing to worry about chuffing. Port compression will also potentially become a factor here if the required air velocity gets too high (the port air starts getting in the way of itself is the easiest way to think about this). You will want a "rumble"/infrasonic/High Pass filter in any event to keep lower frequency content away from the driver.

Yes, I am still seriously eyeing a pair of subs based on this driver, though it is currently "plan B". Plan A is a sealed Shiva-X in about 32 - 35L of air with 1000W of power and a Velodyne SMS-1 (these were recently on sale).

Bill

[Bear]

What do you mean by "all the amps..."? Can you please explain more?

A Linkwitz Transform (LT) circuit "boosts bass" (really a type of shelving filter?), but does not try to to limit how low it is active. Most plate amps have a "rumble" filter or infrasonic filter or high pass filter (all basically the same thing) to limit the low frequency information that is passed from the input side of the amp to the high current gain stage of the amp. This helps protect the driver from trying to reproduce frequencies where its performance has been de-emphasized.

In the example I indicated, above (45L, Fb = 20 Hz), Xmax is reached just below 16 Hz. If a movie sent a big spike of low frequency information to the subwoofer at 10 Hz (some movies these days), then the driver would pretty quickly blow past Xmax and may even try to breach Xmech. The latter is Very Bad, especially if it happens with any significant energy. You will quickly be looking for a replacement driver if you let this happen too often. Not a good idea if your subwoofer is based on a discontinued driver. :cry:

Bill

[Rick Craig]

What do you mean by "all the amps..."? Can you please explain more?

Plate amps that have EQ for extra bass extension. Sorry for the confusion.

[Rick Craig]

Forgot to add - a good software program like BassBox Pro will help you with 6th order alignments. You can compare tunings / output capability versus excursion and power handling to determine if a woofer is going to meet your criteria.

[bobhowell]

UniBox shows a 3"x17"vent will tune it to 25HZ, with f3 of 35hz, but nice roll off to about 25HZ. This is lower than Madisound recomends, but is there any problem. This will be 50/50 music HT. Also, I will be pairing this with a sealed RSS265HF-10". Will I have any special problem with 2 different type subs in the same system?

[Rick Craig]

UniBox shows a 3"x17"vent will tune it to 25HZ, with f3 of 35hz, but nice roll off to about 25HZ. This is lower than Madisound recomends, but is there any problem. This will be 50/50 music HT. Also, I will be pairing this with a sealed RSS265HF-10". Will I have any special problem with 2 different type subs in the same system?

Why not sell one and have two that match? A port that long is going to have quite a bit of noise.

[bobhowell]

Why not sell one and have two that match? A port that long is going to have quite a bit of noise.

I can make the port bigger. Looks like I will need 4"X30". It will have to be u shaped. Is that a problem?

I love them both! Will they work together?

[Bear]

I can make the port bigger. Looks like I will need 4"X30". It will have to be u shaped. Is that a problem?

I love them both! Will they work together?

Within limits, the tunnel shape of the port (stright, "U", whatever) is far, far less important than the geometry/treatment at the ends. That being said, bigger ports have lower and louder harmonics. This will constrain the usable range you can get before noise becomes a problem. For ported subwoofers, you are often trading off port noise of one type for another (e.g., chuffing vs. harmonics). This is why passive radiators are so popular among DIYers with a bit more to spend.