Dayton DC160-8 Project

[jason50146]

Hi everyone - noobie here. I was into speaker building when I was a bit younger, but fell away from the true arts as priorities changed.

I want to build a floor standing tower type enclosure and have been thinking about using some "economy" speakers. I like the looks and description of the Statment series (the Monitor and Mini versions, specifically). Unfortunately, I don't want to sink $500 - $600 into the project just for parts.

I have been looking at the 6.5 inch Dayton DC160-8 as a possible woofer for a new project. In addition to cost, I like these because they seem to perform well in a small box. I have been running some scenarios and it looks these will respond down to ~43Hz with a pretty flat response curve. This is in a ported enclosure tuned to 43Hz.

Because the enclosure demands are small, I was thinking that I could put two of them into a 1 cu ft enclosure. This will maintain the tuning mentioned above.

I am throwing around the idea of wiring 4 of these woofers in series-parallel. This would have the benefit of keeping the load at 8 ohms, increasing cone area, and will increase power handling. Each pair (or single?) woofer would be in a sub-enclosure.

I have some ideas on a mid and tweeter, but maybe we can start with this. I think, as with other projects here, the crossover is going to be the biggest challenge, and I could use some help there. It sounds like I will need to consider baffle step correction in the design.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Thanks

[ThomasW]

Any project is possible when the builder has the appropriate tools for measuring the impedance and frequency response of the drivers mounted in the baffle to be used. In addition you need to know how to use those measurements with crossover modeling software

Not sure the rationale for choosing a Fb of 43Hz? You'd need a highpass to protect the woofers if you're not using a sub. If you are using a sub the box doesn't need porting.

[james5]

Thomas is right. If you're new to all of this then I'd recommend building someones proven design before you go off sinking mucho dinero in a hobby you have no idea if you'll enjoy. If you like that woofer then I would recommend Paul Carmody's Classix design. You can find it here:

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-classix

I built a pair of these for my bedroom and they sound awfully nice for the price. They have good low end extension and good overall clarity on vocals. Probably better sounding overall than anything you own now. They also fit into a relatively small box. Just my 2 cents.

j

[jason50146]

Any project is possible when the builder has the appropriate tools for measuring the impedance and frequency response of the drivers mounted in the baffle to be used. In addition you need to know how to use those measurements with crossover modeling software

I don't have that equipment. That's why I'm here.

Not sure the rationale for choosing a Fb of 43Hz? You'd need a highpass to protect the woofers if you're not using a sub. If you are using a sub the box doesn't need porting.

43Hz is the number T/S says is appropriate for an enclosure of 14 liters. The link posted by James seems to back this up - http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-classix . This also results in a flat response curve with this woofer. In addition, you really need to port this woofer. A sealed enclosure f3 ~79Hz. I think that's a little high for a true subwoofer to be operating.

Thanks for you reply James- it was very helpful. It looks like this woofer is adequate, but not great.

I'm convinced that there is a driver combo out there that will sound great without the premium price tag. I've looked through a lot of DIY plans and and I really think that most of them are too expensive. Most of the projects I see here and at other websites are much more expensive for comparable setups.

Hence, my goal - build an "economy" loudspeaker. One where the sound greatly exceeds its tiny price tag. Something with a simple xover. Maybe I'm kidding myself? Consider it a challenge.

My personal goal is to come up with something that will work as mains for a music and HT setup. I do have a subwoofer, so I'm not real concerned about low end extension. I would prefer to get to at least 50Hz, though.

If anybody knows of an existing example, or has any recommendations, I would appreciate it if you could include a reply.

Thanks!

[ThomasW]

If anybody knows of an existing example, or has any recommendations, I would appreciate it if you could include a reply.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html

[HareBrained]

Hi Jason,

Welcome back to the hobby. There are ways to develop excellent sounding speakers from free software and measurements of representative drivers. In fact, if you surf thru Paul's (undef) and Zaph's sites, you'll find lots of good information and data. And there are plenty of resources to be had from other people here and other forums.

Excursion is a concern for many drivers but for most volumes at which people listen, it's not a problem. If you're looking for a speaker to build, the Recession Buster at Madisound, and the BR-1S at PE are great inexpensive kits. If you're looking to design a speaker, you're going to need to research the Excel spreadsheets: Unibox, Response Modeler, Passive Crossover Designer. I suggest you model an existing design from Zaph's site in the tools to help you understand how they're used. I found these tools to be very accurate.

BTW, the BAMTM is a great speaker, although somewhat large. F3=80Hz is acceptable for integration with a sub considering most HT receivers have an active high-pass at that frequency for "small" speakers.

[Undefinition]

Not to be cliche, but for maximum satisfaction, I recommend starting out with a proven design.

Something like the TriTrix in a tall floorstander or the D3 built as a floorstander would probably be more than enough to get you addicted!

In other news, lately I've been dreaming up a design using all dayton Classic drivers. It would be a floorstanding TMWW using the DC28 (or ND28) + DC130 + DC160-4 (x2). It's could be relatively small, give that slim TMWW look that's so in right now, and would have that "warm fuzzy" feeling you get from paper cones. I think it could come in at a very reasonable price point, and would be just the thing for people who want something "manly" but still like the classic look and sound of traditional paper cones.

I would not recommend a begginer or intermediate attempt to design this himself. The Dayton Classic drivers sometimes take a lot of care to get strange humps and sudden drop-offs out of the FR.

[alias2]

Thanks for you reply James- it was very helpful.
It looks like this woofer is adequate, but not great.
Thanks!

According to Zaph as a bass/mid it has "horrible tall order harmonic distortion
right smack in the midrange", which seems to indicate best used bass only.

An "economy" 6.5"/1" depends on what you mean by economy. Another
option would be suggests the best "killer budget" combination for use
with a subwoofer is a ~ 15L sealed SB Acoustics SB17NRX / Vifa DQ25SC.

/alias2.

[jason50146]

An "economy" 6.5"/1" depends on what you mean by economy. Another option would be suggests the best "killer budget" combination for use
with a subwoofer is a ~ 15L sealed SB Acoustics SB17NRX / Vifa DQ25SC.
/alias2.

Best killer budget is a good way to put it.

I'm looking at Augerpro's n00bsters

-Jason