Deciding on a sub

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  • cyberspyder
    Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 60

    Deciding on a sub

    Any good plans? Want a cube, so no Sonosubs or stacks, as it'll be in a corner most likely. Looking to spend up to $300. How's this?



    Which is better, a port or a passive radiator?

    Brendan
  • Bear
    Super Senior Member
    • Dec 2008
    • 1038

    #2
    A passive radiator has no port noise, but a flared port is typically cheaper. Also, depending upon the size and tuning of the port you want, you may lose less of the internal volume ("net air") in the enclosure using a PR than using a port (you subtract the port volume from the box volume to get the net enclosure volume).
    Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson.

    Comment

    • cyberspyder
      Member
      • Apr 2008
      • 60

      #3
      Which offers a deeper bass response?

      Comment

      • ThomasW
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Aug 2000
        • 10933

        #4
        They're both 'vented' alignments, they can have identical tunings.

        IB subwoofer FAQ page


        "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

        Comment

        • JoeAngelicchio
          Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 47

          #5
          How would one calculate for a passive radiator?
          Joe

          Comment

          • ThomasW
            Moderator Emeritus
            • Aug 2000
            • 10933

            #6
            Use WinISD Pro or Unibox. The Fb is determined by the weight of the PR.

            IB subwoofer FAQ page


            "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

            Comment

            • Finleyville
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 350

              #7
              Originally posted by ThomasW
              The Fb is determined by the weight of the PR.

              You mean the weight of the moving mass and not the weight of the whole radiator, right?
              BE ALERT! The world needs more lerts.

              Comment

              • Mazeroth
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2004
                • 422

                #8
                Originally posted by Finleyville
                You mean the weight of the moving mass and not the weight of the whole radiator, right?
                Correct.

                Comment

                • brent_s
                  Member
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 89

                  #9
                  $300 Canadian or US? It makes a difference. What does that budget include...driver, PR/port, amp, cabinet material? Any size limitations? Output and extension goals?

                  Down firing a PR as Vikash did is usually a very bad idea. That puts a lot of stress on the suspension and will compromise the life expectancy of the PR.

                  For $350ish USD, you could build something resembling the Salk Songsub. Pair the Dayton RS315-HO with an AE PR15-1050 in 2 ft^3 net for a 21Hz tuning. Using the Dayton BASH-300, you're looking at an f3 of 21Hz with 105dB@20hz - 109dB@100hz according to the 1m groundplane sims in WinISD.

                  If you can go larger on the cabinet, I'm using a Dayton DVC15 in 6 ft^3 net tuned to 17Hz via one full length 4" PSP. With the DVC15 corner loaded in my 24x16x9 theater room, it measured essentialy flat (+/-3) down to 10Hz. Obviously, I don't have a rumble filter in the chain; the rumble filter in the BASH-300 will start rolling you off at 12dB/octave below 18ish Hz. A DVC15 and BASH-300 would fit your $300 budget.

                  Lots of ways to skin that cat.

                  -Brent

                  Comment

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